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Hardly anything. Firstly, don't bother about cooling unless your amp is overheating and shutting. This should not usually happen since manufacturers provide adequate heat sinks. If this still happens, first make sure your power cabling is of adequate gauge, and the grounding is proper. Forced convection cooling is only required for very advanced installs.

Thank you B&T, I use a double layered MDF custom shaped enclosure for my CS 1215 sub at the rear.

It's not over heating but at higher volumes it tends to trip for a second when the sub level is max.

B&T would you mind to elaborate why it won't do much in cooling?. Because every thump more air pushed towards the AMP which in turn more air circulation in the boot. So will it not help? Most installations I have seen were not facing each other.

Oops, typo.It should read Auditor.
You were banging you head for this or was it something else?

Thanks

:eek: Please do take time to refresh yourself with the physics of sound, my friend. I remember having joked many times about LBM's car being propelled by his subs, but that was in jest!!! :p

I had written about not obstructing the air flow with the sub, but the converse is not creating air flow with the sub. The amp is cooled by air *convection*.

Folks/Resident guru's,
I am looking for an iPod adapter for my 2006 Civic S-MT, the ones that can be plugged into the CD changer socket provided in the HU.
I have been looking for something similar on the net and came across xcarlink. Is that or something similar available in the streets on Bombay?

Thanks,
Hiren

Went to Opera House yesterday but no one has heard of xcarlink :(
One shop did have the Harman Kardon drive and play but it costs 8.5K which I feel is very expensive.

So my dilemma still remains.

Dear All,

I generally find that installs/upgrades follow a particular setup pattern which I would like someone to kindly explain me. It would help me in deciding my ICE.

1. I note that the usual setup of front coaxials + rear ovals when upgraded are changed to front comps + rear coaxials +/- subs. Why?

2. Considering that I dont go for subs, which combo would be right - front comps + rear ovals OR front comps + rear coaxials. Kindly advise.

1. Components in front give a far better image
2. Usually the recommendation is 6x9 coaxial ovals (on the parcel shelf), or round coaxials in the rear door. Both are coaxials - the ovals give better bass than the round ones
3. Why not components in the rear? Why not, if you can afford it - just that the coaxials are cheaper, and usually the rear seat is vacant most of the time.

Front comps and rear 6x9 oval coaxials. Reason as above.

Sorry, I should have been specific. I meant round coaxials in place of 6 x 9's.

Point taken. Thanks.

EDIT: In fact my entire question should read "round coaxials" in places I have mentioned as "coaxials" Sorry about that.

Which of the following would give me a bass with more punch, less boom.

1. Parcel tray with 6 x 9's OR parcel tray with round coaxials.

OR

2. Sealed enclosures (on left and right in the boot) - again ovals OR round coaxials.

My plan is to go for front components (in the door) with an amp and one of the four options above. (NO sub due to boot space constraints). I drive 100% of the time and needless to say "itmyalto".

Come to think of it, there is another option: a Polk 8" sub below front passenger seat.

With this, you can put 6.5" round coaxials in the rear doors - no point in putting them in boxes in the boot, and you can also avoid putting anything on the parcel tray. If you are buying an amp, put the components and the sub on the amp, and connect the rear coaxials to HU.

Oh uh!! I din't think of it. This will shoot up my budget by an additional few thousands (Polk sub 8 incher comes around 4.5 K with enclosure, right?) Also, it will involve cutting open all the four doors. Will give it a thought. Once I finalize all the links in the chain (and the budget), I would be a better position to decide. But the boot space advantage is a strong consideration.:thumbs up

Hello All,
Can somebody give me reviews about Soundstream Amps. This thread is like a ocean of treasures and i am lost in that searching. Could not find any specific reviews after searching also.

Even if any of you guide me to the links hidden in the ocean also is fine.

Thanks,
Santosh

I am totally at sea when it comes to ICE (when one can enjoy driving, why care about the music? :) ICE is meant mainly for the daughter). So here is my problem - which is driving me crazy!!

The details of my car -

Make - Palio 1.2NV ELX 2005 25k on odo

ICE - Pioneer CD (3990 or 3390, not sure) (upgraded from the earlier OE Kenwood cassette player about six months back)

Speakers - Stock front door speakers which came with the car and 150W 6" pioneer speakers on the rear.

(I am dead against cutting and splicing of wiring harness, so no extra fittings)

Mistake - DIY fitting. stupid:
Since the DIN of the pioneer HU and the car's stock connector did not match, got a matching connector. Cut the HU's cables and spliced them with the (newly purchased) connector, after matching all the wires correctly - color code fitted to a 'T'. The new connector was a perfect match to the car harnesses' DIN connector.

(Every thing works fine. Daughter is happy, as the pioneer HU has a remote, AUX in. I am happy, because no more fiddling with the buttons while driving)

My problem -

My battery keeps draining. Four times in the last two months. After the first occasion, replaced the battery - with a new Amaron FLO. Thereafter, kave thoroughly checked the electricals; dismantled the alternator+rectifier and checked that too. No problems.

So, all points to the newly fitted ICE.

What I found was - after going through the user manual of Pioneer - this warning " the red wire is to be connected to the ignition switch for cars not having the ACC key position. Yellow wire is constant 12v supply. Improperly connecting these wires could lead to battery drain ".

Palio does not have a ACC position (however, its harness had a red wire and yellow wire which I have paired correctly to the HU). Could the red wire be causing the battery drainage, as indicated by the manual? If yes, should I disconnect it? And after disconnecting it, will the ICE work properly? Or, should I disconnect the yellow wire....

Help.....please:

And -
a. apologies for the long post.

b. did a search (as per instructions). But even though there are queries on battery drain and constant 12v supply, there is none similar to my problem.

The yellow must go to the battery, and you should be able to take a multimeter and check that.

The red wire signal, if it works correctly (high if key turned on, low if key turned off), is supposed to put the HU to 'sleep'. In this state, even though power is applied to the HU continuously, the HU actually consumes very little power. If this signal is not working, the HU will be on all the time and consume significant power.

If after taking the ignition key out (off) the HU is on (display on), then quite obviously this is not happening, though your explanation does not seem to say that. If 'sleep' is happening (display goes off), it will be incorrect to assume HU is draining the battery. There may be something else that is draining it, like a engine compartment light that someone forgot to switch off! :p