[AnkitPrashar]

hello everyone
I have shortlisted two sub woofers and i will be planning to get an enclosure made.The Sub in question will be either ID12 V.3 or ID8V.3, (since a 10' ID is not available) and will be powered by KAC 845 with two channels bridged to provide 180RMS.

I am looking for a SQ setup and i just don't want any Boom Boom effect. Also i would like to have maximum boot space available. So regarding the sealed enclosure, i would like some help/inputs. I will be only talking about the enclosure for 12' (if i am able to get that fitted properly, then i would surely have space for an 8' enclosure!)

So after going through various posts, i have decided few things. Please feel free to correct me:-

-I will get the sealed enclosure made using a 18mm mdf.
-The ID12 requires a sealed volume of about 1.25cu.ft.. Does this exclude the space occupied by the sub itself. It thats the case then should i add about .07 cu.ft. extra
(as specified by Speaker Enclosure Volume Calculator)

-Is it true that the minimum depth for the box can be roughly 2inches more than the mounting depth of the sub? So in my case, i can have a box with a depth of just 8' (6'according to ID specs+2'). I am only asking this in order to save maximum space.

-Please have a look at the attached diagram and correct me if I am going anywhere wrong. My only concern is that is it possible to have a depth of just 9 inches?

Also people at driven told me that the door of POLO doesn't need any sound dampening as its built properly without any holes/gaps. I have an image of the polo front door. Looking at it can anyone please tell me if the doors indeed require no sound dampening or maybe i could use something more affordable like wuerth rather than spending unnecessarily on dynamat extreme!

Sorry for the long and boring post, but i need to be sure of these things before buying the sub

[thelord]

The build on the Polo door is very nice! You won't need any damping on the metal part but make sure you get some damping on the plastic door panel. I would suggest you try the sub-woofer facing backwards (mounted on the F side) before you decide the enclosure. Somehow, the subwoofer in my car integrates better with the fronts when facing backwards. Btw, 12' * 19' * 25' would be a huge box unless you meant inches

P.S.
The first illustration is very neatly done.

[AnkitPrashar]

Originally Posted by thelord

The build on the Polo door is very nice! You won't need any damping on the metal part but make sure you get some damping on the plastic door panel. I would suggest you try the sub-woofer facing backwards (mounted on the F side) before you decide the enclosure. Somehow, the subwoofer in my car integrates better with the fronts when facing backwards. Btw, 12' * 19' * 25' would be a huge box unless you meant inches

P.S.
The first illustration is very neatly done.

Since the door doesn't need any damping, do i need to spend on something like dynamat just for the plastic door panel or should a wuerth damping material be good enough!

Well the only reason i was looking for the sub facing sideways was so that i could easily take out the spare wheel (when needed) without having to move the sub-enclosure. Facing it backwards would mean the overall width of the box would be around 14-15 inches which would take more boot space and would make it difficult to take out the spare wheel. Wont a sub facing sideways be similar to those sidewall sub installs?.
I did mean 12"*19"*23" (inches) my mistake!

[navin]

Originally Posted by AnkitPrashar

-The ID12 requires a sealed volume of about 1.25cu.ft.. Does this exclude the space occupied by the sub itself. It thats the case then should i add about .07 cu.ft. extra
(as specified by Speaker Enclosure Volume Calculator)
-Is it true that the minimum depth for the box can be roughly 2inches more than the mounting depth of the sub?
-Please have a look at the attached diagram and correct me if I am going anywhere wrong.

The volume specified is the net volume so yes you have to add the volume of he woofer to the box volume to arrive at teh gross internal volume of the box.

The minimum depth of the box is generally recomended to be woofer depth+2" but the more the better.

One error I can see is that the spare tyre location is shown off center. Please see if the Polo's spare tyre location is indeed off center.

Originally Posted by AnkitPrashar

Wont a sub facing sideways be similar to those sidewall sub installs?.

Yes. Facing the sub sideways is similar to a sidewall install.

[AnkitPrashar]

Originally Posted by navin

The volume specified is the net volume so yes you have to add the volume of he woofer to the box volume to arrive at teh gross internal volume of the box.

The minimum depth of the box is generally recomended to be woofer depth+2" but the more the better.

One error I can see is that the spare tyre location is shown off center. Please see if the Polo's spare tyre location is indeed off center.



Yes. Facing the sub sideways is similar to a sidewall install.

Yes, Polo's spare tyre location is indeed off-center. Thats why i thought i might be able to use about 30% of the boot width and be able to take out the tire without any problems.
I know facing a sub towards the rear of the hatch gives best SPL. But since i am only looking for SQ, you think i would be able to get away with a side facing sub?

[vgudale]

Yesterday I had switched on my car,then suddenly sound camed like dhak dhak dhak from components and subwoofer.i just removed the key but then also sound comtinues.then i went back to amplifier, it went in protection mode,i removed the power cable, then the sound from sub and comp wented off,but in the trunk sound camed like tik tik tik.Then rushed towards battery and removed the power cable from there,then sound went off.
I just took my car to the installer then he plugged the power cable to battery,spark camed at that time and amplifier went in protection mode.He just then removed the woofer cable from amplifier and plugged the power cable to battery,then front components played and amplifier didnt went in protection mode,again we tried with basstube it went in protection mode.we just took new basstube and plugged the woofer cables,amplifier played basstube and components,didnt went in protection mode.
Installer told me that basstube is blown and he wont able to find reason.
why this is happnd? can u tell me?
and im using gt5 amp.so it cant able to blow basstube!

[navin]

Originally Posted by AnkitPrashar

I know facing a sub towards the rear of the hatch gives best SPL. But since i am only looking for SQ, you think i would be able to get away with a side facing sub?

In my experience facing the woofer to the rear gives the best SQ too but the differences are minor and subjective so continue with your sideways install.

Originally Posted by vgudale

Yesterday I had switched on my car,then suddenly sound camed like dhak dhak dhak from components and subwoofer.i just removed the key but then also sound comtinues.then i went back to amplifier, it went in protection mode,i removed the power cable, then the sound from sub and comp wented off,but in the trunk sound camed like tik tik tik.Then rushed towards battery and removed the power cable from there,then sound went off.
I just took my car to the installer then he plugged the power cable to battery,spark camed at that time and amplifier went in protection mode.He just then removed the woofer cable from amplifier and plugged the power cable to battery,then front components played and amplifier didnt went in protection mode,again we tried with basstube it went in protection mode.we just took new basstube and plugged the woofer cables,amplifier played basstube and components,didnt went in protection mode.
Installer told me that basstube is blown and he wont able to find reason.
why this is happnd? can u tell me?
and im using gt5 amp.so it cant able to blow basstube!

Firstly when a speaker blows it is open circuit not short. Check the impedance of the bass tube.

I suspect some wiring fault that got corrected once you switched the new bass tube.

[vgudale]

@navin-The installer here havent used the fuse in between the power cable.Is this issue is happent by this?

[yogiii]

My brother has a spark and he needs help with his ICE.
He has sent me the following details with his requirements please advice.



I have a Spark LS Muzic Edition which came with the following dealer fitments
• Sony WX-GT77UI Stereo
• 4 Cup Speakers (all Sony xplod)


What I am looking for:
I am looking to replace the 2 Cup speakers at the rear which I have mounted on the parcel tray with 6”X9” coaxial ovals, a Sub Woofer (not huge, a 10” would do) & a 4 Channel Amp.
I have a budget of around 15K to 18K, but there are a few constraints which I would like to be fulfilled while I plan for this investment


• Need absolute clarity in the vocals & music at low as well as high volume.
• NO big/loud BOOM BOOM but a very nice Woofer which understands good music and does not go BOOM at any tone/beat of the song.
• A very neat enclosure setup for the Sub which can be kept in the boot & is easy to install/remove as per requirements.
• A factory integrated woofer cum enclosure can also be suggested if anything good falls within the budget.
• A good brand 4 channel amp.


I will be retaining all these 4 things in case I plan to change my car in the future, so need good guidance from the GURUS to help me out in going for the best bet..!!!
Please Note: I cannot go for components in the front as I do not want to pierce the door panels as the actual speaker slots would not support the size of components. Although all suggestions are welcome in case there is any option to go for components keeping the above in suggesting the combination!!

[navin]

Originally Posted by vgudale

@navin-The installer here havent used the fuse in between the power cable.Is this issue is happent by this?

Most amps have a fuse. If there is a short, the fuse will blow. Most amps also have other short circuit protection. But like I said earlier when a speaker blows (it indeed your subwoofer has) it is an open circuit so you amp will be safe. Please check the impedance of the woofer to confirm it has blown and your wiring.

Originally Posted by yogiii

I am looking to replace the 2 Cup speakers at the rear which I have mounted on the parcel tray with 6”X9” coaxial ovals, a Sub Woofer (not huge, a 10” would do) & a 4 Channel Amp.
I have a budget of around 15K to 18K

Retain HU.
Replace 4 Speakers in front and rear: 8K (JBL GT5,
Add Amp: 6K (Kenwood, JBL, Pioneer, etc..)
Damp doors and hatch 2K
-----------
This will give you the best bang for your buck and cost you 16K

A subwoofer with a box will cost you 8K. You can add this later.

[Sam Kapasi]

I just took my car to the installer then he plugged the power cable to battery,spark camed at that time

That is normal.

and amplifier went in protection mode.

That is not.

He just then removed the woofer cable from amplifier and plugged the power cable to battery,then front components played and amplifier didnt went in protection mode,again we tried with basstube it went in protection mode.we just took new basstube and plugged the woofer cables,amplifier played basstube and components,didnt went in protection mode.

Actually your installer has used the correct technique of elimination. If the amplifier does not go into protect with the new basstube and plays normally, then it is clear that the fault lies in the old bass tube.

why this is happnd? can u tell me?
and im using gt5 amp.so it cant able to blow basstube!

It has mostly happened due to incorrect frequency settings (no LPF) or simply due to over-driving.
It is in fact quite easy to blow any speaker with a lower-powered amplifier. It causes greater clipping and greater distortion which are the main reasons for a speaker failing.

Originally Posted by navin

Firstly when a speaker blows it is open circuit not short. Check the impedance of the bass tube.

While I agree with checking on the impedance of the bass tube with a meter, I don't agree with the fact that every blown speaker is always open.

In my life I have come across plenty of over-driven speakers where the coil has literally melted, or come off it's gluing and the speaker has shown as zero impedance.

I'm guessing the gentleman's bass tube will show 0Ω impedance

[cranky]

^^Speakers can fail in either open circuit or closed circuit mode.

Open circuit usually happens when the excess power is instantaneous and of a very large magnitude, closed circuit is caused by gradual overheating for long durations and finally one hair on the camel's back that breaks it.

[thelord]

Originally Posted by AnkitPrashar

Since the door doesn't need any damping, do i need to spend on something like dynamat just for the plastic door panel or should a wuerth damping material be good enough!

Well the only reason i was looking for the sub facing sideways was so that i could easily take out the spare wheel (when needed) without having to move the sub-enclosure.

Originally Posted by AnkitPrashar

I know facing a sub towards the rear of the hatch gives best SPL. But since i am only looking for SQ, you think i would be able to get away with a side facing sub?

Wurth should do the job just fine. Also, the sub-woofer placement depends a lot on the car and cabin shape. In most hatchbacks, if the sub is firing to the rear, the bass attack from the sub integrates better with the front mid-bass attack. Hence giving an illusion that the bass is up-front. In sedans, it's a different story.

[Arkin evoisrevo]

Here's a general question I've had in mind:
Which set-up would be better:
3 way 6 inchers up front + 3 way 6*9s in the rear w/o an amp, or normal Comps up front = 3 way rear 6*9s w/o an amp?
I ask, because, I've heard that comps can't be exploited to their best w/o an amp.

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by vgudale

@navin-The installer here havent used the fuse in between the power cable.Is this issue is happent by this?

Am surprised to see that none of our ICE gurus have paid proper attention to this very valid point A fuse should be installed in between the power cable and that should be at the source to take care of any short circuits which can be fatal at times. And I learned this rule of thumb from this forum only.