[jealousdiamond]

Appreciate the effort taken to make it a detailed guide , howver I was just wondering , was there a need to remove that headlamp cluster , if just a bulb had to be chnaged . Is the position of the back cup so unreachable that it can't be reached directly .

Also pic 11 , you dont have to touch the screw at all , just press on the other side of the clamp and move the clamp (its just like a cross latch position), and you have access to bulb , unless it is different in an Optra .

Well all in all a simple DIY , but could have been much simpler and shorter .

Originally Posted by roadtrip

The dealer's offering a Hella relay+wiring harness and 100/90 bulbs for Rs 1500.

Go ahead , looks like a deal .
Hella bulbs ( 150 per piece , Roots/ Hella wiring harness - 850 )
Totala 1100 , Go ahead , a few hundreds less on the what dealer has mentioned and you are done .

The throw of 100/90 is way better than the Philips ExtremeVison .
Another aspect you might want to look at is the durability factor of it .

Philips EV/ Osram NB / Narva are known to face clonked lowbeam problems every 3-6 months

[keyur]

Originally Posted by jealousdiamond

was there a need to remove that headlamp cluster , if just a bulb had to be chnaged . Is the position of the back cup so unreachable that it can't be reached directly .

There is no way to reach the backside of the cluster without removing the cluster. Blocked by battery on left lamp and air filter on right.

Originally Posted by jealousdiamond

Also pic 11 , you dont have to touch the screw at all , just press on the other side of the clamp and move the clamp (its just like a cross latch position), and you have access to bulb , unless it is different in an Optra .

If you look at the pic of the clip you will see that the clip has 2 ends, both of them surrounding the bulb. There is no way to release the clip. The screw is on tightly and prevents any movement of the clip. But still, I will give it another go and update here.

Originally Posted by jealousdiamond

Well all in all a simple DIY , but could have been much simpler and shorter .

Shorter - yes - but then you get stuck at very minor points like removing the grill or the retaining clamp, and end up giving up or breaking something - hence the details to help even a layman.

Simpler - no - these are the minimum steps to be followed - the bulbs cannot be replaced otherwise in an Optra.

Originally Posted by jealousdiamond

Philips EV/ Osram NB / Narva are known to face clonked lowbeam problems every 3-6 months

I will keep you updated. The Xtreme Powers had an issue of the low beam and the reduced life, but the Xtreme Visions have only a slightly reduced life (same wattage, more brightness - something has to go ) - haven't heard of or faced any issues with the low beam.




Also, as you seem to be aware of such DIYs, need a few suggestions. I am planning on modding my steering to have spoke mounted horn buttons (the centre one isn't very comfortable). Need to have something sleek, that won't jut out.
I have one option of building up a current limiting circuit and following it up with a relay and use micro switches or pressure sensing buttons. But if you have a simpler solution, do let me know. (The issue I am trying to solve is to keep the switch/button micro yet prevent frying it up - spells RELAY, but the micro buttons may not be able to bear even the coil current of the relay)

[MAS]

Originally Posted by roadtrip

I'm just about to buy an Optra 2.0 LT, and have been reading a lot about the stock headlamps being inadequate. The dealer's offering a Hella relay+wiring harness and 100/90 bulbs for Rs 1500.
Do you think this would be the best option, or should I get Philips XV or Osram NightBreakers at 60/55?
I'm ok with whitish light (blue is definitely out), and I don't want HIDs. Should I replace the bulbs in the fogs as well?

Hope you got your mean machine delivered. The dealer has offered a good deal. IMO, you should go in for this replacement. There is no comparison on the light from a 100/90 to any of the 60/55 bulbs available (with fancy names). I have personally experienced the difference and is especially recommended if you drive on the highways. Go ahead and replace them for the fogs as well.

[keyur]

Originally Posted by roadtrip

I'm just about to buy an Optra 2.0 LT, and have been reading a lot about the stock headlamps being inadequate. The dealer's offering a Hella relay+wiring harness and 100/90 bulbs for Rs 1500.
Do you think this would be the best option, or should I get Philips XV or Osram NightBreakers at 60/55?

Originally Posted by MAS

Go ahead and replace them for the fogs as well.

This would probably void the warranty though, so do the research first, and also ensure that the heat generated is not too much or else your lamp reflectors may get glazed.

[MAS]

Originally Posted by keyur

This would probably void the warranty though, so do the research first, and also ensure that the heat generated is not too much or else your lamp reflectors may get glazed.

As the dealer would fit it and as the modern relays do not need any wires to be cut, the warranty will not be void.

I have been using 100/90 on all my cars and do a lot of highway driving at night. The plastic headlamps look the same. The upgrade will ensure better safety for night driving.

[keyur]

Originally Posted by MAS

As the dealer would fit it and as the modern relays do not need any wires to be cut, the warranty will not be void.

I have been using 100/90 on all my cars and do a lot of highway driving at night. The plastic headlamps look the same. The upgrade will ensure better safety for night driving.

This has unfortunately not been the issue with a friend of mine. He had an aftermarket Xenon kit fitted into his Fiesta from the showroom itself, but when he faced some electrical issue, he had a lot of problems (though eventually he fought it out and claimed the warranty)

I had tried searching for the 100/90s in Pune wherein there would be no need to cut / bridge the wiring,but could not find any that would directly fit in. Could you please post a few pics of your setup, or point me to some site for a plug in kit for the Optra?

[kanhaiyo]

Originally Posted by keyur

There is no way to reach the backside of the cluster without removing the cluster. Blocked by battery on left lamp and air filter on right.


Simpler - no - these are the minimum steps to be followed - the bulbs cannot be replaced otherwise in an Optra.


I am planning on modding my steering to have spoke mounted horn buttons (the centre one isn't very comfortable).

1. Bulb replacement - Keyur, I just had the headlight bulbs replaced at my local chevy dealership about 4 days ago, both side bulbs were replaced before me within 5 mins.. the service guy did not open the grill or anything..

There is definitely a way to reach the cluster and change the bulbs without going through the whole process.. next time I go there, I will ask them and post back..

2. Steering - That's odd.. I have a 2009 end Optra Magnum LT, and mine has the spoke mounted horn buttons and no centre one.

The steering wheel in your photo, I thought that one came with the petrol models only..

[keyur]

Originally Posted by kanhaiyo

1. Bulb replacement - Keyur, I just had the headlight bulbs replaced at my local chevy dealership about 4 days ago, both side bulbs were replaced before me within 5 mins.. the service guy did not open the grill or anything..

There is definitely a way to reach the cluster and change the bulbs without going through the whole process.. next time I go there, I will ask them and post back..

You can change the headlights directly, but that involves holding the bulb by the glass (if you hold it by the base, there isn't enough space to insert the bulbs). I prefer not to touch the glass of the bulbs.

Originally Posted by kanhaiyo

2. Steering - That's odd.. I have a 2009 end Optra Magnum LT, and mine has the spoke mounted horn buttons and no centre one.

Mine is the Magnum LS.

[kanhaiyo]

Originally Posted by keyur

You can change the headlights directly, but that involves holding the bulb by the glass (if you hold it by the base, there isn't enough space to insert the bulbs). I prefer not to touch the glass of the bulbs.

Oh, did not know that.. will have to check that out..

Mine is the Magnum LS.

Was not aware that the steering wheels differed between the LS and LT models, thought they were different only between the petrol and diesel versions.

[blueorchid]

Originally Posted by keyur

Here is a teaser for something I am doing!

The steering wheel - removed and dismantled


Stripped off the aftermarket steering cover.



What am I going to do? Any guesses?
(Probably something to resolve the issue of the center horn maybe .... )


Details coming soon...

Coming soon... It has been ages and I have been waiting a long time for this. I to need to do something about the center horn, so please update!

Looks like your interest in the Optra is starting to wane..

[keyur]

Originally Posted by blueorchid

Coming soon... It has been ages and I have been waiting a long time for this. I to need to do something about the center horn, so please update!

I know I have not put up the details since a long time. But that is because I am using all my free time to do more mods!

So, the list is :

1. Headlamp upgrade to Philips XV
2. Steering wheel mod to add side horn pads
3. Addition of 3 cig-lighter sockets and USB charger to central storage.
4. DIY LED lamps for front cabin lamp (1+2 combo)
5. Angel eyes (acrylic) for fog lamps
6. Race Chip

And the upcoming :

1. Bi-xenon projector for headlights
2. ECU Remap
3. EGR delete

Originally Posted by blueorchid

Looks like your interest in the Optra is starting to wane..

Ouch!! that hurt!
Will post more soon - the interest is not waning in any way whatsoever!!

[blueorchid]

Originally Posted by keyur

I know I have not put up the details since a long time. But that is because I am using all my free time to do more mods!

So, the list is :

1. Headlamp upgrade to Philips XV
2. Steering wheel mod to add side horn pads
3. Addition of 3 cig-lighter sockets and USB charger to central storage.
4. DIY LED lamps for front cabin lamp (1+2 combo)
5. Angel eyes (acrylic) for fog lamps
6. Race Chip

And the upcoming :

1. Bi-xenon projector for headlights
2. ECU Remap
3. EGR delete

Quite a big list, and a lot of words!
But where are the pics - this is a DIY thread isn't it

Originally Posted by keyur

Ouch!! that hurt!
Will post more soon - the interest is not waning in any way whatsoever!!

Was sure that the taunt would get you back to this thread that you nearly abandoned!

[keyur]

This is the DIY for fitting a Race Chip to your Optra (similar procedure for other cars as well).

To get more details regarding the Race Chip, visit their site and check this thread.

You need to order specifically as per your car. The Race Chip remains same, but the connectors vary.
Once you receive your Race Chip and unbox it, these are the contents :



1. Race Chip
2. Common Rail T-Connector (specific to your car)
3. Check Plug
4. Cable Ties
5. Generic Instruction Manual
6. Leaflet specific to your car's rail connector
7. Receipt and Warranty



Tools required :

1. Socket wrench (to open the engine cover)
Many cars have engine covers that can be just pulled out. No tools required in that case!


Level of complexity :

Dummy friendly. (You really have to be hell bent on making a mistake to get this wrong). It's very easy to do and someone with no DIY experience can do it easily.

Time taken :

15 minutes (from bonnet open to close), although you may go as per your own pace.


Procedure :

1. Switch off the ignition of the car, remove the key out. Pop open the bonnet of the car and then close all doors before you start the assembly
so that there is no residual current flowing.
(If you are not sure how to do this, well, do not proceed - call your trusted mechanic and show him the rest of this post - tell him to follow these instructions !)

2-a. It is a good idea to disconnect the positive terminal of the battery for now. This provides safety, and at the same time also resets the dynamic memory of your ECU. You may skip this step and proceed ahead

2-b. You will see a cover over the engine block. In this car, you need to open the 4 nuts/bolts (marked in red) and remove the cover. This varies from car to car and in some cars, it is a simple pull-out type.



3. What you see is the engine block. In this you need to locate the position of the Common Rail (The thing that CRDi, CRDe, DiCOR etc take their name from). The Common Rail is a solid looking metal pipe characterized by 3-4 (or more depending on the number of cylinders) steel pipes coming out of it from nuts and going in towards the engine cylinders.
See the pics below for the whole view and the highlighted view of the rail.



The rail has a wire and connector going into it at one end (marked in yellow). In this car, this connector is a 3 pin connector +12V, Rail Signal, Ground. This is a male connector (has a protrusion).
(You may argue here based on the way the pins are exposed as to which is male and which is female, but here, lets assume it as I say - male is the protruding one, female is the receptor)

Here is a closer shot of the rail.




4. You need to grab a hold of the connector, release the locking clip by pressing it and gently ease out the connector.

The connector with the clip to be pressed


The connector removed



5. Now take the T-connector cable out of the Race Chip box and plug in the male signal connector (removed in step 4) into the female connector of the T-connector cable



6.To complete the circuit, plug in the male connector of the T-Connector cable into the female socket of the Common Rail (the socket from which you removed the connector in step 4)



7-a. Now, if you had disconnected the +ve battery terminal in step 2a, connect it back.

7-b. Now, plug in the Check Plug into the serial connector of the T-Connector cable. Switch on the ignition (do not crank it). If everything is done correctly, the indicator LED in the check plug will glow.
If the LED does not glow, check the connections all over again to see that you have not put them in reverse or forced them in the wrong way.
If the LED still does not light up, remove the entire thing, restore the connections back to stock condition and write to the RaceChip team. Do not start your vehicle if the LED does not glow.



See the connector placement above.


8. If everything works out fine, remove the plug. Route the cable in a convenient manner (see 2nd pic), keeping it away from movable parts, heat sources etc. Then connect the Race Chip to the serial connector and tuck it neatly into place where it will stay away from heat. Use the cable ties to bind the connector harness and the Race Chip in place.






Note the way I have kept the flat end of the Race Chip accessible. That is so that I can easily open the cover (by opening the 2 screws) and make the necessary changes / adjustments to the 2 dials.

[blueorchid]

Originally Posted by keyur

Level of complexity :

Dummy friendly. (You really have to be hell bent on making a mistake to get this wrong)

Originally Posted by keyur

Time taken :

15 minutes (from bonnet open to close), although you may go as per your own pace.

Is this true or are you exaggerating? I have my doubts because it would have taken some time just for the pics!

Originally Posted by keyur

(If you are not sure how to do this, well, do not proceed - call your trusted mechanic and show him the rest of this post - tell him to follow these instructions !)

Originally Posted by keyur

See the pics below for the whole view and the highlighted view of the rail.

Attachment 895894

Attachment 895896


Attachment 895903

What have you done to the photos? The way you have highlighted the pipe and the connector is great! Any tips on that?

[keyur]

Originally Posted by blueorchid

Is this true or are you exaggerating? I have my doubts because it would have taken some time just for the pics!

It is true. Actually, the Race Chip was lying around (packed) in the boot of my car for about a month. The installation was getting delayed due to various things that kept popping up.

So one fine Monday morning at around 7.30 am, I was waiting for a couple of my colleagues to come as we had to go to Mumbai for some official work. I was waiting by my car, when I got a call that they would be delayed by 10-15 minutes (more).

That's when I had the 'inspiration' of fitting the chip in right there and then! I always carry my toolbox in the boot, so I got that out and started the job (in full formal wear and everything ). I was done in 15 minutes, and was washing my hands when the guys arrived.


As for the pics - they were not taken at the time of the installation. The unpacking picks were taken way before, and for the installation pics, I removed the chip and installed it all over again.

Originally Posted by blueorchid

What have you done to the photos? The way you have highlighted the pipe and the connector is great! Any tips on that?

The rail would not have been easily seen by a newbie, so I selectively changed the brightness, contrast and levels in the pic (and the hue and saturation in the connector routing pic). I do this using GIMP (GNU Image Manipulation Program) - not PhotoShop.