[Hashim]

As far as I remember there are four small screws which you have to open using philips screwdriver and the center hub nut after you removed the cap. Then with slight hammering it should come out easily. I have done this DIY with my friend on his Zen.

After you open it inspect for oil leakage in brake cylinder. If its leaking, it needs a change. Use plain water for cleaning with a paint brush first, then wipe as there would be lots of brake dust. Wear a mask. There are adjustment screws inside as well for the brake shoe. Best of luck and keep us updated.

[bj96]

Thanks Hashim for responding.

Originally Posted by Hashim

As far as I remember there are four small screws which you have to open using philips screwdriver and the center hub nut after you removed the cap.

I did not notice any screw after taking off the wheel. Also, the bearing nut after removing the hub cup didn't look to obstruct the drum hole. Will try to take a picture when I open next time.

-BJ

[Live To Jive]

Originally Posted by DRIV3R

Dunno about the Wagon R, but for the ZEN, Maruti introduced the "i" in badging, after EPS was introduced.

Originally Posted by vnabhi

AFAIK, there was no VX. When I bought my Waggie LXi in 2001, there were 3 models: LX, LXi and VXi. The 'i' indicated power steering.

Originally Posted by bj96

Sometime in 2001 or early 2002- when they also introduced the MPFI petrol engines. Prior to that carb engine was norm. This "revolutionary" change was required in India due to Bharat - II (euro-2) emission norms? I think at the same time they added DDLI = Dual Distributor-less Ignition too.

The Zen and Esteem were the first to get the LX/VX badging based on the trim level. The i indicated the switch to MPFI. The Wagon R never came with the carb. The LX indicated no power steering. The LXi & VXi had it. However the Automatic Wagon R & Esteem were badged AX and not AXi despite having MPFI and P/S. The SX4 & A-Star Automatics are not badged AX or AXi.

I remember, till then Santro had a 8-bit ECU while Maruti, straightaway launched a 16-bit ECU and went ga ga about this triumph. I distinctly remember their trade pamphlets full with such terms like 16-bit MPFI, EPS, 16-valve hypertech engine etc, etc... to stand out in the competition. I will try to dig the pamphlet- I must have preserved one somewhere.-BJ

I remember that. Even the Indica came with a 16 bit ECU and the Palio had a 32 bit ECU. Tata later upgraded to 32 bit. How many bits to the current ECU's have?

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by bj96

Need some help guys.
After watching few videos and surfing the forums- decided a DIY for this. Jacked up, removed 4 nuts and removed the wheel. Also removed the bearing cap (cup) and gently hammered the drum. But it would not budge. Ensured handbrake is off. Drum seems to rotate free, but it is not coming off the axle. What am I missing? Does it need just the brute hammering or their any other gentle trick to this?
-BJ

BJ, after loosening those 4 nuts and removing the wheel, with a flat screwdriver open the hub cap and you'll find a huge nut (not sure if its 25mm of more/less) which needs to be loosened as well.

After this, hammer the compoment all the places and try pulling the assembly.

This is the only way you'll get access to the rear brake assembly and be able to clean the system including the shoes and the drums.

I always stay at MASS near my car for each and every service and this is how it is done (Now I normally Clean/Replace plugs and clean the throttle body all by myself and will put this up with photos next time I do it).

Other alternate but quicker option is to directly remove the plastic hub cap and then the metal cap under it and access that big nut and loosen and take off the drum assembly along with the rim and tire as a single unit.

The challenge here would be to have a good box spanner of that size and a long enough arm that helps you apply the required torque.

Hope this helps.

[bj96]

Thanks Parag for the tip.

Looks like my car is showing signs of aging. When I filled petrol today (topped up, 406 kms in 28 liters, all city driving), it started leaking from the joint where rubber hose connects the petrol tank, after I started the engine (tank was pressurized). On visually inspecting, I see some cracks on the surface of the hose pipe or may be the corrosion of clip/connector due to sludge. Need to take her to MASS.

Btw, anyone tested the new MASS, Mahalaxmi Auto (from Baramati?), which has come up just right across the Mundhwa police station?

-BJ

[bj96]

Originally Posted by bj96

...Need to take her to MASS.

...anyone tested the new MASS, Mahalaxmi Auto (from Baramati?), which has come up just right across the Mundhwa police station?

Just got her serviced on 31st. Both rear shockers were replaced (fluid had leaked out) and the RHS drum brake cylinder was replaced. Brake oil bleeding done too and the petrol hose was replaced + usual oil change and general servicing. Total bill ~4300/-.

Based on my experience with Mahalaxmi Automotive- I will highly recommend this MASS. They did a very neat job. Washing was A grade and they polished all plastic trims. My car now looks and feels like a new one . Will post pictures later.

Cheers,
-BJ

[bj96]

Touching almost 58k kms now. Got her 3rd set of shoes- 4 x Bridgestone Turanza ER60. Was using Michellin xm1 155x65R13 before, switched back to OEM 145x70 now. Some pictures taken today with new shoes









For the first time today, noticed unusual resistance in gear box. Was waiting at the signal in rush hour traffic. Tried to shift to 1st on green but, the stick would not budge, as if gearbox was locked inside. Embarassing situation, other vehicles started honking. Gear would not shift. Tried 2nd, 3rd too, still not budging. I was stationary on a bit of incline. Tried reverse gear it engaged and then 1st, it engaged too, moved on. Again second time while in motion ~40kmph, tried to shift to 5th from 4th, but gear stick was not engaging and had to press harder than usual. Wondering what could be happening...gear box overhaul or Oil change needed?

-BJ

[vigsom]

Originally Posted by bj96

Tried reverse gear it engaged and then 1st, it engaged too, moved on. Again second time while in motion ~40kmph, tried to shift to 5th from 4th, but gear stick was not engaging and had to press harder than usual. Wondering what could be happening...gear box overhaul or Oil change needed? -BJ

When was the last time you changed the gear oil?

The Wagon-R Gear Box is rubbery but not as bad as you have mentioned.

You could try the following:

1. With engine off, check if the gears shift 1-2,2-3,3-4
2. Try the same thing with engine on.
3. If gears don't shift with engine on,I think your clutch plate is getting stuck

[bj96]

Thanks for replying vigsom.

Originally Posted by vigsom

When was the last time you changed the gear oil?

About 3 years, 18 thousand kms ago, MASS had charged me for 2.5 liters of gear oil at 40k service.

Originally Posted by vigsom

1. With engine off, check if the gears shift 1-2,2-3,3-4
2. Try the same thing with engine on.
3. If gears don't shift with engine on,I think your clutch plate is getting stuck

1. Gear shift is butter smooth. Clutch pedal is butter smooth.
2. Was getting stuck sometimes after driving for 5 minutes or so. Some grinding noise felt too. Experienced this first time in my ~9 years, 58k ownership.
3. You are spot on. Went to a local mechanic, he tightened the clutch actuator cable a bit. The situation has improved vastly. Next thing on agenda is to replace the gear oil in the weekend. Unsure about honesty of MASS which did 40k service. I think the new clutch cable that I put about 10k kms back must have elongated a bit after use, causing the clutch to drag.

-BJ

[vigsom]

Originally Posted by bj96

About 3 years, 18 thousand kms ago, MASS had charged me for 2.5 liters of gear oil at 40k service.

Experienced this first time in my ~9 years, 58k ownership.
3. You are spot on. Went to a local mechanic, he tightened the clutch actuator cable a bit. The situation has improved vastly. Next thing on agenda is to replace the gear oil in the weekend. Unsure about honesty of MASS which did 40k service. I think the new clutch cable that I put about 10k kms back must have elongated a bit after use, causing the clutch to drag.

-BJ

The recommended gear oil replacement interval is 20k ; suggest you open the gear oil fill hole and collect a sample of the oil.Please replace only if you find that the oil has darkened or has thinned down.

I guess you have only changed the clutch cable 10k kms back and not the clutch plate,right?

If you do tight traffic driving frequently,I think you will need a clutch plate and pressure plate replacement soon - and get MGP only.

[bj96]

Originally Posted by vigsom

The recommended gear oil replacement interval is 20k ; ...
If you do tight traffic driving frequently,I think you will need a clutch plate and pressure plate replacement soon...

Thanks Vigsom for reminding. Yes gear oil change is indeed 20k. Verified with owners manual. All these while I was thinking it was 40k. Will do the needful today. The clutch o/h was done about 12k kms ago, hence, do not suspect that right now. I do not clutch ride except for changing gears or starting off. Downshift to 1st when crawling in bumper to bumper traffic.

-BJ

[dinu2506]

Originally Posted by bj96

Touching almost 58k kms now. Got her 3rd set of shoes- 4 x Bridgestone Turanza ER60. Was using Michellin xm1 155x65R13 before, switched back to OEM 145x70 now. Some pictures taken today with new shoes
[

Congrats on the new shoes. I can vouch for the Turanza ER60 that are running on both my cars. Superb all round tyres. Any reason why you switched back to the OEM size. 155 would have been good.

[bj96]

Originally Posted by dinu2506

Congrats...Any reason why you switched back to the OEM size...

Thanks. Just wanted to play by the books

Actually, wagonR stays within city limits these days because we've Safari for highways. Thinking about petrol prices and Pune road condition, I felt narrower and taller tires make more economical sense.

-BJ

[chetans]

Originally Posted by bj96

Btw, anyone tested the new MASS, Mahalaxmi Auto (from Baramati?), which has come up just right across the Mundhwa police station?
-BJ

Its quite a decent setup.
However was disappointed over simple dent fixing.
my wagonr had slight dent with bit of exposed body just beneath the rear number plate. but they messed it up by hammering all over the places. in fact now the car has more dents at near-by places

On furhter inquirey came to knew that those guys have no dent removal (some pump like structure) setup. so by far chougules is the best for all remedies.

[antorquetik]

Hi.
I have a wagon-R VX 2000 model with 80K on the ODO.i was looking forward to some ones help on suggesting me a good MASS or a renowned mechanic in Bangalore, who can give me a genuine opinion on the work my car requires pertaining to the steering and suspension(struts,tie rods ,ball joints,bushes,strut mounts etc).handling has gone bad and i am experiencing symptoms of strut failure.i do not want to spend a bomb.car is due for a regular service with oil change.Also i have a query regarding the brake drums on my car.we know that the discs on the disc brakes get warped after some time and need replacement, in a similar fashion is there a possibility that the drums might have got warped?