Re: The DSLR Thread Quote:
Originally Posted by SPARKled On a gray scale? How do you do that when you are spot metering? |
Simple exercise - try taking photos of a table lamp that is switched on in a otherwise dark room. Try different metering modes. Will help you practically understand the dynamics between metering modes, exposure compensation and what happens when you meter for different areas.
Note: sometimes you need to meter for one area and focus on another. Do note that you can't do this in Matrix mode for Nikon cameras - check the manual if you use Canon. Quote:
Originally Posted by Aroy There are many options when shooting birds which are predominantly is shadows.
1. Use matrix metering and hope for the best. That too will invariably over expose the sky and under expose the bird. Underexpose may be recovered but blown sky never.
2. Use spot meter for the sky. The sky is perfectly exposed, but every thing is in shadows. With the modern DSLR there is at least 13EV of DR (for D3300, and 14.5EV for the D610/800), so shadows upto -11EV are recoverable with little noise if you use base ISO (100 in case of most modern Nikons)
3. Use centre weighed metering for the bird in the shadow. The bird and the surroundings will be perfectly exposed. The sky blown. If you are only interested in the bird this is the correct metering.
If you know how much shadow you can recover with very little noise, then it is better to expose for the sky, unless the subject is really dark - 6 or more EV below the sky. Otherwise expose depending on what you want - the bird or the whole image including sky.
The only other method of getting both right in a high DR scene, is to bracket for exposure -5 EV, 0 EV,+5 EV and then merge the sky with the bird. |
True. But modern metering is very sophisticated (varies from camera to camera though), and one can get away with matrix mode for most of the situations. Especially for wildlife where the creature can vanish in an instant. I would try 1, 3 and even spot for the bird if results are not satisfactory - if I have time to experiment. Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluu Anyone? There are some decent discounts being offered at present that I want to take advantage of. |
The 50mm 1.8 D or G would be nice. You might also want to consider the Sigma 16-35mm 1.8 which has been getting rave reviews. Quote:
Originally Posted by WindRide All this 'which camera to buy' and exposure related chatter makes me quote the lovable Mr Ken Rockwell ;-)
"For the first 15 years I was an idiot. I thought the way to get better pictures was with a better camera. I thought the camera was responsible for metering and making the correct exposure. I was too inexperienced to realize that, like driving a car, you always have to apply intelligent corrections to get perfect exposure, just as even the best cars need a driver to keep them in-lane."
If i REALLY want to learn photography, i would buy the most basic camera body that has full manual controls and take it one step at a time. No wonder the agricultural Pentax K1000 was held in such high regard among both students and teachers, despite being such a brick.
But i digress. |
KR needs to be taken with a pinch of salt. If it took him 15 years to figure that out then....
But gear does matter, all things being equal. Especially for certain genres where you need low light capabilities, reach, speed and focusing sophistication.
Btw KR is increasingly losing it, if you know what I mean. Quote:
Originally Posted by Aroy In case you need telephotos for shooting wild life, then primes are much better (though more expensive) options, as in most of the cases you will be shooting at a great distance (that is why telephoto) and unless it is an elephant at 10 meters, the animals/birds will rarely fill your frame. You need maximum sharpness and at times low light capability to shoot wild life. |
The better wildlife lenses are prohibitively expensive...sigh. Try explaining to a wife that you bought a 600mm lens instead of that Maruti Swift that was required for the family  .
The Tamron 150-600mm could be a game changer for 'poor' wildlife shooters, let's see how the Nikon mount is.
Last edited by nilanjanray : 26th March 2014 at 13:00.
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