Team-BHP - The Home Appliance thread

How is the Nova brand of appliances? I was looking for a sandwich grill with non-PFOA coating. None of the grills or sandwich maker has specifically mentioned the coating as PFOA free, except one from oster and other from nova (both have ceramic coating).

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Originally Posted by Eddy (Post 4426658)

Our four year old Samsung fridge has started overcooling. The milk & veggies develop a thin layer of ice even though the temp setting is at the second level.

What could be the issue ?

Samsung service team will be visiting us today (hopefully)

The thermostat was found ok. The technician told my dad that the Air Damper was faulty - and was replaced.

Pretty impressed with Samsung service so far. Diagnosis within 24 hours and repair within 48.

Service Visit = ~Rs 350
Part = ~ Rs 650

With gas stoves (not hob), what are the pros & cons of the black glasstop ones are compared to the traditional stainless steel ones?

I means https://www.amazon.in/Pigeon-Stovekr.../dp/B0721DX212 compared to https://www.amazon.in/Quba-B3-Digita...dp/B07B4YRMLZ/

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Originally Posted by carboy

As mentioned by others above,many of these glass tops have been known to crack under sudden exposure to boiling liquids etc.

Glass surface is more prone to show scratches over time.

Steel is immune to these issues and also ages better. And can take more abuse over time.

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Originally Posted by carboy (Post 4431956)

The products you have posted, both have glass tops.
I have heard of glass cook tops bursts. Probably someone on the forum reported happening that too. More than cracking of glass, this is my biggest fear with this product. This is not to discourage you but just my preference that I am still sticking to steel stoves. Apart from looking less fancy, I don't find them to be short on anything.:)

Regards,
Saket

I might have mentioned witnessing an exploding glass stove top a few years ago. It was quite dramatic! And dangerous. And huge good luck that no one was within range at that moment.

Whilst my hunch was wrong installation, it's only a hunch with no evidence either way. But even ceramic floor tiles can start flying apart in bits of they have no expansion space

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Originally Posted by drsingh (Post 4430269)

What is the most efficient way to repair the peeling powder coat of an old refrigerator.Short of sending it for a repaint. I'm thinking of something like automotive wraps .

Yes I am facing the same issue with my BPL 4 door; 30 year vintage. I tried patchwork spray paining but it did not come out well. I cant send for major overhaul as parts are no longer available. Automotive wraps or some of these vinyl type material with self sticking base from 3M primarily used for interior decor may be a solution. We could get a shade match too - who knows.

I need a water heater to be installed in my bathroom. It'll be used by only me on a daily basis, and by 3-4 people on two weekends per month.

Should I get a 10 lit storage heater? Will I be wasting power heating too much water when only I'm using the heater? (Cost: 6-8k)

Should I get a 3 lit instant heater? Will the extra power used during the busy weekends neutralise the initial cost advantage? (Cost: 3-4k)

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Originally Posted by Geo_Ipe (Post 4432356)

If you use the shower then you need at least 50L of hot water. A 25L set at 90 degrees will give you at least 50L of water at the around 45 degrees. We have a 25L which is just enough for one extended shower in Delhi winter.

An instant water heater is useless for showers. You have to collect the hot water in a bucket. The best instant heaters are ones that have no storage but they consume upwards of 3KW power. A 3L instant geyser will supply you hot water and store 3L if the use is intermittent, but not for a bath.

On the contrary I found instant heaters useable and also saved on electricity bills. Unfortunately the brand I used, Johnson - a Delhi brand, stopped making them in face of Chinese onslaught. With five heaters one could select level of hotness and not worry about water running cold. The whole family enjoys except me as I am only child shower guy.

If using bucket, instant heater is definitely best choice. Used it for ages at my old house. If using shower and one with a high LPM output, definitely need a high capacity storage geyser.
My requirements are different but I have a 30L 5KW storage geyser which will heat the water to 90 degrees in just 15-20 minutes. So it reheats in the time one takes to shower so hot water is available for next occupany. This is then supplied to a thermostatic diverter which then supplies the shower and the sink with premixed water at the temperature one wants. We need to use hot water throughout the year, hence such a high wattage storage geyser.

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Originally Posted by rdst_1 (Post 4432399)

This is then supplied to a thermostatic diverter which then supplies the shower and the sink with premixed water at the temperature one wants.

just to clarify where does the premixing and temperature control happen? Is it a separate mixer at the sink and separate at the shower? I have recommended the hot water supply to my cousin, when they remodeled their bathroom, to include the health faucet line for elderly folks, particularly useful in winter.

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Originally Posted by diyguy (Post 4432484)

Usually one would open both hot and cold lines in the shower or the sink to get mixed water or install a thermostatic faucet/diverter at both points.
I have, however, installed the thermostatic diverter on what would be the hot water supply line.
In my case, the hot line provides premixed water at the temp of your desire so that one doesn't face temp difference when switching the shower on and off.