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-   -   2006 Maruti Baleno VXi - Updated @ 96,000 kms (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-term-ownership-reviews/10673-2006-maruti-baleno-vxi-updated-96-000-kms-9.html)

A few pointers here for your benefit:

1. it is shocking that one can negotiate prices of SGPs/MGPs at a MASS - all SGPs and MGPs have standard prices.
2. if the TVS pads were of the same dimensions of the Sumitomo,you could have safely gone with them.I have has a great experience with Sumitomo,but the cost is 5*tvs - just because it is an import
3. do you feel the vibrations at idle?and have they increased gradually?It seems to be an idle issue more than anything else.Mounts are a possibility but not so soon.Try Nulon and you'll be amazed.

The cooling coil was not the official one. The spares guy arranged for one directly through his sources. Though I failed to understand how he managed to give me a formal bill for it!

Call me a chicken, but tend to play absolutely safe with critical components like brakes. Hence end up fitting OE stuff.

Yes idle vibration is higher than what it was when new. revvs drop when the air con kicks in resulting in vibrations. The fuel filter had water in it. Replacing it reduced the vibrations by 20%.

What is Nulon?

^^ have the vibrations cropped up post Throttle Body cleaning?

I don't believe an IACV can cause issues so early - and that too in a Jap. Me thinks setting of the IACV should help.

Nulon is a PTFE based lubricant ; available in 350ml cans. I have been using this since 2003 and am pleased with the results.The engine becomes super silent and the effect can be seen 1-2 days after the stuff is added to engine oil .It costs approx 500 bucks a can.

Well actually the vibrations are not that evident in the engine itself. Engine seems to be quite ok. If I pop the bonnet and listen, there is no untoward noise/vibration.

The problem appears when the revvs drop on AC on/off cycles. Then there's probably some sort of resonance which makes the vibrations perceptible. If I feather the accelerator at idle and keep the revvs above 800-900 then all is ok.

IACV was checked/cleaned etc in one of the services. No perceptible improvement. Even the mounts were checked. None had any major faults.

So in what ratio is Nulon added? Why not just use synth? I had used synth once, but did not feel any major difference, hence have switched back to Bosch mineral for the last couple of fills.

A can of Nulon(350ml) is added after an oil change

Nulon just helps smoothen out noises in old engines ; and all engines I've maintained so far have been old ones.

My Baleno is 5 1/2 years old now. When I take a right turn, there is a sound from the left rear wheel. This is similar to the sound of a punctured tyre. I checked with the tyre expert and was told that there is no puncture. What else could this sound be coming from?

History: No major repairs yet. Run 60K and serviced every 10 thousand Kms. Changed tyres to Michelin 4 months ago.

Hi guys anyone knows a good local workshop in trivandrum, Kerala. I'm not happy with mass service.

I have had the exact same issue. My Baleno was also recently due for a clutch change, and the mechanic told me these issues were related. Now, even after the clutch change, I still have this issue, albeit to a lower extent.

Should I ask my mechanic to clean the throttle body valve/IACV? Received the car back from 60k service recently, but I am not convinced this was done.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Could be a damaged wheel bearing.

Went in for another routine service + preventive maintenance on the 18th of May. It has run 85,000+ kms and is 6.5 years young !

The car is running > 2200kms per month of late. This will continue for sometime. Hence it needs to be kept in excellent health.

Right, so to keep it in fine nick, the primary checkup points were:
a) Front left suspension sound over fairly rough roads
b) Steering rattle over similar roads
c) Rear brakes seemed to be sticking when the brakes were being released. Quite infrequent, but was happening.
d) Slight front bumper rattle
e) Lube checkup and normal servicing

I was frankly prepared for a big bill, to the tune of 20-30K, considering that suspension overhaul may be required. However, I was pleasantly surprised !

a) All struts are fine. No issues. They just changed some bushes and links. The sound is not audible anymore.
b) Apparently there could be some worn bushes inside the column. But the SA said that they serviced it from outside as much as possible, since they did not have all the column internals (parts) in stock. Hence if opened, and something needed replacement I may not have got the car back within the deadline I had given them. I guess, I'll have to plan for this with them with more time in hand. Having said that, the rattle has reduced somewhat, though it's still there.
c) Rear wheel cylinders needed to be changed. Brakes are perfect now.
d) Bumper rattle fixed.
e) Engine oil replaced with standard mineral oil. Brake oil changed.
f) Additionally engine decarb was suggested and I asked them to go ahead.

Total expenses ... Rs. 6536/- .. and the car definitely feels smoother and less noisy .. happy happy me clap:

Now there is the tyre noise to deal with. Eagle F1s at 38K kms can make quite a racket. But contrary to popular opinion on the forum, I have been quite happy with F1s in all other aspects. They still have tread to last another 5-10k kms easily. That's quite something from these 'soft' tyres. But I'll probably change them within the next 5K.


You could try it. I've had all these done, at different times. The vibrations have always remained to some extent. The maximum improvement happened when the fuel filter was changed.

I still suspect it could be the mounts - which although have quite a bit of life in them, would certainly have lost some of it's cushioning effect. But at 11-12K for the mount set, I'm willing to bear that amount of vibrations at idle !!

12k for engine mount set.. Boy-o-Boy!! I've been told that mine need a change in another 4 - 5k kms along with tie rod ends. I have the same vibrations and jerk problem on acceleration and bad roads.

Any alternative options with local parts?

Haven't come across any. Read about aftermarket lower arms in the forum, which apparently did not last long. So if you plan to keep the car, use OE :)

The radiator fan went kaput. Details here ..

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post2806925

Part was ordered on last Wednesday evening. Arrived and fitted on Saturday.

Make - Denso.
Price - Rs. 3700+ with taxes (labour 500 extra)

The 2 weeks following the radiator fan issue, there were increasing problems with starting the car. Specially when it had run some and then if switched off.

After loads of diagnosis, a faulty alternator was diagnosed. The battery had gone bad too and was not holding charge. It was 2.75 years old. Amaron.

The jury was out as to whether the battery screwed up the alternator or vice versa.

Anyway, ordered for a new alternator. All the while the car was being driven but not being switched off on the roads. The alternator took a week to arrive.
Make: Denso
Price: Rs. 5459.

Drove around for 1.5 hours with zero load. Went to a battery shop and switched off. The car would not start still ! Hence changed the battery.
Make: Exide Max
Price: Rs 3400 (after exchange)

This was 2 weeks back. No issues since then. Touch wood :)

Thanks, you were right.. The guys are Solar Automobiles have interchanged the bearings of the rear wheels. Very skeptical that this solution will last long.