Quote:
Originally Posted by v1p3r A disc basically acts as a heat sink. If you take away material, the remaining material will have to deal with higher specific stress. |
Correct. The metal itself will act like a heat sink. However, the advantage of slotted/drilled rotors is their ability to prevent the build up of excessive heat and gases between the pads and the surface of the rotor while braking.
I could increase the diameter of the discs, but then I would need to get spacers made for the calipers as well. Quote:
Originally Posted by v1p3r Slotting is slightly better, but has its drawbacks again. |
Slotting is better as you remove less metal from the disc. However, I don't know of anyone here who does this. And yes, brakes are something nobody should mess with unless you are 100% sure of the results. Quote:
Originally Posted by theMag I dont know if an effective sub-10K solution might exist at all - unless replacing the pads is considered such a method |
Actually, I think that is the best bang-for-the-buck solution out there for street use. Simply improving the pads to ones that can withstand great heat while providing better performance should be the first step really.
Ofcourse, going in for pure racing compound pads would be taking a step backwards as everyday street driving will not allow them to reach their ideal operating temperature.
So can someone list out the ideal (in their opinion) pads available in the market today along with the approximate costs. Quote:
Originally Posted by v1p3r cheap way to improve braking for high-intensity apps like hill-descent or track is to channel more air towards the brakes. Route a CAI style piping towards the inside of each front wheel, and your brakes will fade a lot less. |
Definitely. But I'm talking about a more permanent solution without altering the bodywork.
But, since we are talking about this, did you run with such a set up at the track or otherwise? How did you route it and keep it secured? |