[rustynails]

Originally Posted by tejas08

Hello everybody!

A question to the experts on the forums. I have my first paid servicing due in April. I am planning to switch from Mineral Oil to Synthetic Oil. I read the first page of this thread and it recommended and Engine Flush before switching over from Mineral Oil to Synthetic Oil.

I was reading some more articles on the internet which suggested against Engine Flushing.

This thread was started way back in 2006, so just wanted to once again confirm whether the engine flush requirement is still applicable or whether modern cars are OK with switching from Mineral to Synthetic Oil without engine flushing.

P.S.: All the other conditions for switching over are being satisfied already.
The ones like 10K-15K Kms running & Manufacturer recommended Synthetic Oils etc.

Engine flush won't be required. A good synthetic oil already has the additives and other ingredients to clean the engine.
It's more of money making technique by workshops as the margins and incentives are huge.

[aerohit]

If you so desperate to use synthetic, I think you should use flush once atleast, because once you pour your synthetic it will get dirty brown too soon from the previous left over mineral oil.
Engine flush is a type of super thin oil that penetrates into the deposited varnish layers and set them free. Thats why you are not supposed to rev or drive the car.

It is OK to use flush once between 12 to 24 months, its costs around 250 not too expensive.

Whats going to happen is that you will certainly notice difference in performance, and you will think that its the Synthetic oil that improved your performance. In reality, it was probably the engine flush that improved it. And the only way to test this is by doing flush and using good quality mineral oil instead of synthetic. I am sure you wont waste your money on synthetic again in future.

Also, a lot depends on what grade of oil you are using, avoid cold weather oil and avoid thicker/heavy oil.

[rustynails]

Originally Posted by aerohit

Also, a lot depends on what grade of oil you are using, avoid cold weather oil and avoid thicker/heavy oil.

Beg to differ, have you read the ingredients of an engine flush. The once I have seen being in this business, do not have anything that would cost its manufacturing more that 20-30 bucks.

Also, when you say avoid cold weather oil and thicker/heavy oil, then what do u use. SAE Grades like 0W 40 give you all weather protection. Thinner is better as the flow ability of the oil is better and it gives you protection during the initial/cold starts.

[aerohit]

Originally Posted by rustynails

Beg to differ, have you read the ingredients of an engine flush. The once I have seen being in this business, do not have anything that would cost its manufacturing more that 20-30 bucks.

Also, when you say avoid cold weather oil and thicker/heavy oil, then what do u use. SAE Grades like 0W 40 give you all weather protection. Thinner is better as the flow ability of the oil is better and it gives you protection during the initial/cold starts.

Well, they are certainly not mixing milk masala in it. They are basically petro chemicals.

Are you sure you are clear about oil terminology? 0W40 may give me additional protection in freezing weather but why should i unnecessarily go use 0W when i live in a warm country. 0W has more (unwanted) viscosity modifiers than a 10W, so i would rather use 10W because average temperature doesnt go below 10 in most indian cities anyway!

I use 10w30, because my average temperatures are warm. 10w40 is heavier/thicker than 10w30 and i wont use it unless my engine is leaking something. Also, 10w30 falls within the safe limit prescribed by car manufacturer. Whereas 0W40 falls on the extreme end of the scale

Finally, i get best mileage and pickup with 10w30 compared to 5w40/30, so i am only recommending it based on experience. 1) beacuse 10w has less viscosity modifiers 2) because 30 is light weight oil. I have never used 0w40 in india so i dont know what its like.

During indian winters i may go with 5w30 max, that too in north indian winters, but never 0w40. 0w40 is for canada!

[SnakemanJohny]

And I was just thinking of getting the same oil as theMAG -- Mobil 1 5w50 -- for my Gypsy, as I cannot find the manual-recommended grade (15w50) in synthetics. This grade is rare enough in mineral oil too, as modern engines do not need/use thicker grades.

But aerohit makes me think again ? Or should I stick to "...oil topping out at SAE40", as suggested by sgiitk ? Decisions, decisions !!

[aerohit]

Originally Posted by SnakemanJohny

And I was just thinking of getting the same oil as theMAG -- Mobil 1 5w50 -- for my Gypsy, as I cannot find the manual-recommended grade (15w50) in synthetics. This grade is rare enough in mineral oil too, as modern engines do not need/use thicker grades.

But aerohit makes me think again ? Or should I stick to "...oil topping out at SAE40", as suggested by sgiitk ? Decisions, decisions !!

There is not much difference between what I said and what sgiitk said.

SAE40 can be hard to find, so I didnt mention it, but if you can find it then go ahead and use SAE40, even better, if not then just get 10w30

http://www.castrol.com/en_za/south-a...il-sae-40.html

[sgiitk]

@aerohit; The rule of the game is, get the thinnest oil permitted, but do not go below the minimum specified. SAE10 may translate to a 2-5% in economy. Never go below the specs otherwise, you risk metal to metal rubbing and serious damage.

[confortablynumb]

Does anyone know where can I get Torco or Q8 Engine oils in Bangalore or Mumbai?

[ukamath]

My 2008 Verna VGT CRDI is rapidly nearing the 90K mark. The car has been serviced at a HASS throughout its life. Unsure of what oil was used by them (The car belonged to a relative, and is currently used by me). She is running smoothly, settles around 900 rpm when on idle, with no rattles or noises. Reaching out to the community for guidance on which oil should I go for the 90K service - a semi synthetic blend such as Shell Helix HX 6 15W-40, or a synthetic blend such as Mobil 1 Delvac. I see that these two brands are among the most popular on this thread for diesel mills. Also, before changing the oil, is an engine flush recommended? Thanks!

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by ukamath

Reaching out to the community for guidance on which oil should I go for the 90K service - a semi synthetic blend such as Shell Helix HX 6 15W-40, or a synthetic blend such as Mobil 1 Delvac. I see that these two brands are among the most popular on this thread for diesel mills. Also, before changing the oil, is an engine flush recommended? Thanks!

You/your relative would be having the service bills for the car since it was bought, check the oil or for the oil grade that was used in it. Best is to stick to it.

If you aren't able to get the information, then go ahead with Mobil Delvac 1.

[ukamath]

Thanks Anurag. The service bills are not available apparently - So I have to go with your recommendation of Mobil Delvac 1. In this case, would you recommend flushing the engine, or go for a direct drain and fill. Thanks!

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by ukamath

Thanks Anurag. The service bills are not available apparently - So I have to go with your recommendation of Mobil Delvac 1. In this case, would you recommend flushing the engine, or go for a direct drain and fill. Thanks!

Direct drain and fill.

Give a longer time for draining to let the oil out completely.

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by confortablynumb

Does anyone know where can I get Torco or Q8 Engine oils in Bangalore or Mumbai?

They are both minor brands, and may be sourcing from others. Incidentally, Q8 stands for Kuwait!!

[Altocumulus]

I have the 3rd/10k service coming up soon for my Ritz petrol. Will move to fully synthetic oil now. Which is the best one to go for ?

[a4anurag]

With Amazon being widely used for spares be it for two wheelers or four, they are increasing the products to their portfolio along with the variety.

Found this engine oil replacement guide for cars as well as bikes so wanted to put it here for easy reference and to all who don't understand these terms.

Below are the screen shots of the same:

1) For CARS:









2) For BIKES:





SOURCE:

Engine oil - Guide

Car engine oil - Guide

Bike engine oil - Guide

PS: I have no connection/affiliation with Amazon or their sellers. I have just put this for spreading the knowledge. Thanks.