[aargee]

Originally Posted by naveenroy

thinking I can change it...Bike is ABS.

Naveen, give me a call, it's a child's play, you can do it by yourself & there's nothing big deal in changing the pads in the caliper kit.

[Sheel]

RG; I was under the impression that some wires or something needs to be pulled up to disengage the brake prior to removing the pad. If nothing like that, then it indeed is a small job

[aargee]

Originally Posted by Sheel

RG; I was under the impression...it's same as removing any other bolt

From my little understand, it's the wheel sensor that needs to be removed in addition, which is fastened by two bolts & can be removed using any other bolt

What is that needs to be disengaged? Pls help understand. Tks

[Sheel]

The caliper pin, that is. And I was apprehensive about the sensor. Is that sensor for ABS?

I am at sea with ABS, hence the apprehension.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by Sheel

The caliper pin, that is. And I was apprehensive about the sensor. Is that sensor for ABS?

Take pics before removing each pin, bolt etc & using them put it back. I know it's easier said than done, but...it has to start somewhere

Originally Posted by Sheel

I am at sea with ABS, hence the apprehension.

I'm not sure if I know anything concrete even with standard caliper kit. What's the worst thing that can happen? The pads might jam the rotor? Poor brakes? It's always possible to unmount the caliper kit & take it to ASC & get it fixed. Have to ride to ASC without front brakes little carefully that's all.

[naveenroy]

Originally Posted by Sheel

Naveen, don't. If you know a very competent mechanic outside, then its okay. Else, being ABS equipped, wait till the specialist mechanic arrives.

And a log about the ride?

I am back in Bangalore and will try and ask the ASC if they will fit it for me. And for the trip log - have already started working on it - its in the Garage

Originally Posted by aargee

Naveen, give me a call, it's a child's play, you can do it by yourself & there's nothing big deal in changing the pads in the caliper kit.

Originally Posted by aargee

Take pics before removing each pin, bolt etc & using them put it back. I know it's easier said than done, but...it has to start somewhere


I'm not sure if I know anything concrete even with standard caliper kit. What's the worst thing that can happen? The pads might jam the rotor? Poor brakes? It's always possible to unmount the caliper kit & take it to ASC & get it fixed. Have to ride to ASC without front brakes little carefully that's all.

I will try and get some time to do this. But if the ASC is ready to do it for me, I will go there.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by Sheel

The caliper pin, that is. And I was apprehensive about the sensor. Is that sensor for ABS?

Got it confirmed from HMSI ASC, they said there's no special care to be taken & it's easier in Nissin than BYBRE

Originally Posted by naveenroy

I will try and get some time to do this. But if the ASC is ready to do it for me, I will go there.

Up to you, I'd always find an opportunity to learn, but I can't expect this with everyone; do what is comfortable for you.

[naveenroy]

Originally Posted by aargee

Got it confirmed from HMSI ASC, they said there's no special care to be taken & it's easier in Nissin than BYBRE

Up to you, I'd always find an opportunity to learn, but I can't expect this with everyone; do what is comfortable for you.

Thanks for checking that up. Am more than willing to do it myself - just checked out some videos on the net and it is indeed a simple job - only thing is I have only Allen keys - will buy a socket wrench this weekend or get from someone.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by naveenroy

Am more than willing to do it myself - just checked out some videos on the net and it is indeed a simple job - only thing is I have only Allen keys - will buy a socket wrench this weekend or get from someone.

Way to go!!! Welcome to the world of DIY (and less headaches from ASC)

You'll need...
- 14mm socket & wrench or open ended wrench
- Long nose plier
- Thin but strong screwdriver (to push the pad holder from bottom)
- C-clamp (I don't have C-clamp either, I use large handle screw driver)
- Phillips head screw driver to fill brake oil in master cylinder, if required

These are all you'll need.

[aargee]

Changing Engine Oil in CBR 250R - DIY

Tools you'll need
12mm socket, connector & wrench (this is not part of standard toolkit)
8mm socket & wrench (this is not part of standard toolkit)
Hex key (this is part of standard tool kit)
Paddock - Optional

Precautions
1. Wear a proper gloves or protect your fingers/hands if you've open wound so as to prevent burns from the hot engine oil or if you're allergic skin to engine oils

Pre Oil Change steps
1. If the engine is not in operational temperature, run the vehicle for about 5-10 minutes in idle or riding it so that the engine oil is heated rather than cold

Note - You can alternatively choose to skip this step, just that allow the engine oil to drain out completely by keeping the engine oil drain bolt open & filter window open for longer duration (say about an hour)

Procedure

1. Remove the bottom cowl using the provided hex keys from both the sides as shown in the picture


2. Place a plastic/aluminium tray beneath the drain bolt so as to collect the old engine oil

3. Remove the drain bolt underneath the bike using the 12mm socket & wrench with the connector in between (otherwise it's difficult to reach out)


4. After considerable engine oil has been drained out from the bottom, remove the engine oil filter window/cap using the 8mm socket & wrench
Note - Ensure not to tamper with the gasket; any bend or damage to the gasket will need to be eventually replaced, otherwise, no need to replace the gasket




5. Frequently, keep sliding the vehicle to your left as well as right side while taking care the engine oil being collected in the tray or wipe with a cloth not spilling to the ground

6. After the old engine oil has been drained completely, replace a new engine oil filter as shown in the picture. Take extra precaution to ensure that the engine oil filter & spring are placed as shown in the picture.
Note - Changing the engine oil filter is optional; change it as recommended in the owner's manual or when you're switching from one brand of oil to another. In this case, I was changing from Motul to Shell & hence I was replacing the filter.


7. Tighten the 8mm bolts followed by the 12mm drain bolt underneath

8. Open the oil filler cap & pour approximately 1.6 liters of new engine oil & keep watching the oil level through the inspection window at the same time taking care to fill between the minimum & maximum level

[salunkhe.vizz]

New Niggles where I would like some advice:
- The recall "kit" has still not been installed on my CBR as my service centre says he will allot one to me only after he has serviced all other CBR owners that have bought the bike from them (I bought it from a different city). They have asked me to call back after a month and check availability status. Any other work around for this, will emailing the HONDA Corp Office help, can anyone help me with contact emails ?

- The horn button needs to be pressed hard to get it working (time lag as well), I pointed this out during last service; but it was not rectified. Any other way I can do it myself ?

- My front tyre has developed a serious bulge, so need to replace it. Has any other owner faced this issue within 1.5 yrs of ownership ?
Any suggestions on if I should get it done from the service center OR from a local dealer ? I am concerned as the front disc assembly needs to be carefully handled during the change

[aargee]

Originally Posted by salunkhe.vizz

The recall "kit" has still not been installed on...availability status. Any other work around for this, will emailing the HONDA Corp Office help

Not sure if emails work, but, you can keep checking with them every now & then. Approaching a good ASC in your locality will certainly help which is covered in the FAQ; pls go through them.

Originally Posted by salunkhe.vizz

can anyone help me with contact emails ?

This has been covered in the FAQ's; pls go through them

Originally Posted by salunkhe.vizz

I pointed this out during last service

If not rectified, why did you accept that poor work?

Originally Posted by salunkhe.vizz

Any other way I can do it myself ?

Haven't heard this type of issue before, I'll let other's or whoever have experienced before answer this.

Originally Posted by salunkhe.vizz

My front tyre has...issue within 1.5 yrs of ownership ?

This has been covered in the FAQ's; pls go through them

Originally Posted by salunkhe.vizz

Any suggestions on if I should get it done from the service center OR from a local dealer ?

This has been covered in the FAQ's; pls go through them

Originally Posted by salunkhe.vizz

I am concerned as the front disc assembly needs to be carefully handled during the change

Like what? Pls elaborate

[sanjaybabu]

Excellent FAQ covers all the doubts. I still have a few myself.

Firstly, I have been driving for the past 6 years and every time i brake i pull in the clutch, make the necessary downshift and only release it when i need to accelerate. I have always felt this was right since it is smoother and thought engine braking must be used ONLY during emergency braking conditions. Is this right? Doesn't use of excessive engine braking damage the gearbox? Yes, thats how you brake normally in a superbike but the CBR isn't exactly a superbike. I did try using engine braking as a normal method of braking but it sounds too harsh on the engine and gearbox. Can engine braking used at all times?

I also plan to change the engine oil. I have been using Honda's engine oil till now, planning on switching to Shell Ultra 10w-40, is this advisable? and what is the difference between a 10w-30 and 10w-40, i know its a change in viscosity levels but how does it actually affect the bike and which is the suitable grade for the CBR?

PS: Am a newbie here, this is my first official post

[n_aditya]

Originally Posted by sanjaybabu

Firstly, I have been driving for the past 6 years and every time i brake i pull in the clutch, make the necessary downshift and only release it when i need to accelerate. I have always felt this was right since it is smoother and thought engine braking must be used ONLY during emergency braking conditions. Is this right? Doesn't use of excessive engine braking damage the gearbox? Yes, thats how you brake normally in a superbike but the CBR isn't exactly a superbike. I did try using engine braking as a normal method of braking but it sounds too harsh on the engine and gearbox. Can engine braking used at all times?

I also plan to change the engine oil. I have been using Honda's engine oil till now, planning on switching to Shell Ultra 10w-40, is this advisable? and what is the difference between a 10w-30 and 10w-40, i know its a change in viscosity levels but how does it actually affect the bike and which is the suitable grade for the CBR?

PS: Am a newbie here, this is my first official post

The right way to decelerate is to blip the throttle slightly, pull in the clutch, downshift, release the clutch and all this is done while working the brakes. The action of blipping the throttle is done to match the engine and gearbox revv's and reduce strain on the gearbox. If rev-matching is done correctly braking distance (due to engine braking) improves significantly and also load on the gearbox is very less.

This can be done on any bike irrespective of engine size as long as it has a manual gearbox

Regarding the oil, you can switch to 10w30 from 10w40 without any issues. The oil will be slightly thinner than the 10w40 one, but advantage is that the oil will circulate quicker in cold weather.

[Akhilash95]

Rev matching is basically done to ensure there is no stress on the tranny and have smoother downshifts. It is mostly used only on track .
While BRAKING
1.pull the clutch
2.downshift
3.blip the throttle
4. Release the clutch slowly .

http://www.wikihow.com/Match-Rev-Downshift-a-Motorcycle