[jalva]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

@aargee, thanks. Yes, this is purely intended as a weekend ride. Plan to buy it at Kerala to ride during the weekends.

If you are looking for relaxed rides or touring, CBR is IMHO superior to Ninja. I considered both and budget was not an issue. Ninja felt too committed to a sporty riding posture and had a very hard seat. CBR was clearly more comfortable. ABS and a nice torque range are other pluses in favor of CBR.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

@aargee, thanks. Yes, this is purely intended as a weekend ride. Plan to buy it at Kerala to ride during the weekends.

Weekend is just an excuse, but the roads where you ride are more important. We're just back completing 1680 Kms in the roads of TN-KA-KL on absolutely brilliant & absolutely roadless roads in 2.5 days. Our CBR's not only performed brilliantly, but also yielded unbelievable high FE from Ooty to Ulundurpet; never complained even after several hours of abused ride on broken roads. Here's the road map...(will put up the T'Log soon)



The entire KA-KL section were broken to core & some of the crappiest road ever (Jalsoor;Charambane-Virajpet-Gonikoppal-Kutta). Our CBRs performed more than brilliant & the timings are quite ridiculously unbelievable to publish on open forum.

Point - if you're looking for such kind of adventurous rides CBR will suit more practically in terms of comfort on bad roads, brilliant performance with ease on hills, FE & maintenance. But if you're looking to ride in good tarmac, yes, Ninja can do high speeds (read in excess of 145 Kmph) & good cornering abilities as CBR is more of sports touring motorcycle.

n_aditya - Quite a surprise...really, world is full of surprises

[akshay4587]

I am not sure its relavent here or not.
But a friend of mine,rode his Stock CBR(Only change being a Pirelli Sport Demon rear tyre) on the first track Day at BIC.
His lap timings were better than a Ninja 250,2 Busa's and a ZX-10R.
So in the right hands,its a capable bike.

[aargee]

From our recent ride - Three days of Ride - On the road from East to West coast - ADVrider

My friend, Sai penned this down on xBhp forum

I thought we should put things into perspective after our(Aargee and Me) recent trip of over 1700 kms in three days. Day1-750kms, Excellent, good, bad, off ,no, half, construction roads. Day2-400kms Again repeat of day1. Day3 - 600kms, mostly good, except for diversions. Needless to say, the suspension kept taking beating after beating, pothole after pothole, and we kept jumping. We had 0 problems (except RG's taillight stopped working), 0 niggles . We threw them into every corner we saw, and they just took it with a big grin, putting even bigger ones on our faces. We beat an R15V2 to pulp, when he tried to race us, even though we had already done 270 kms that day, we needed a telescope in the rear view to spot him, in the span of two corners.

Here is the best part, day3-RG and me suddenly decided to do a mileage test after ripping the bikes from Ooty-Mettupalaym, and believe it or not, inspite of the constant accelerating and deceleration in the ghats of about 60 kms, we still achieved a mind boggling mileage of 45.6kmpl(both the bikes, not just one). Now, that being said, it just goes on to prove the fact that CBR is undoubtedly one of the best bikes that money can buy and it is more often than not heavily underrated !

[aargee]

And for all those who own CBR 250R ABS, here's some good news on improving the braking. Again Thanks to my friend & riding buddy Sai Karthik (sayhi2sai xBhp)

It has been over 4k kms since I have started using the Galfer HH rated disc pads instead of the stock, and the Galfer makes a world of difference to the stopping potential of the bike and thus, the rider confidence. Now before, somebody tries to ask for clarification, let it be noted that I have ridden 3 different Ninjas before,(not for long, but enough to test the brakes). And back then, I envied the initial bite the front brake offered. That feeling of just a feather touch to the lever and the jolt of your entire body trying to get over the tank. That's what I have been missing until I got the Galfers. I am afraid to apply the brakes in traffic because I am sure no one behind me can have that potential, they are just that good. Period

The only problem though seems to be the huge front dive the bike seems to experience under such enormous force. It is not a major issue once you get used to it, but there certainly might be others who never will. Afterall, they do say No pain, No gain right? . I have used the brakes in wet,hot, humid and in the ghats(Masinagudi-Ooty-Mettupalayam nonstop). I was prepared to be disappointed by the brakes especially in the ghats filled with traffic, where you have to keep braking ever so often, making the brakes lose their efficiency. But they held their own against all odds, and worked just the way they did under any other circumstance.

Now, here is the most interesting part that almost, if not all people would be interested in, VFM. One set of disc pads cost HOLD YOUR BREATH!, 1500 rupees including international shipping (if more than one set is ordered, else 1800), while the stock pads cost believe it or not, 2000 /- odd rupees . My first set of disc pads(stock) lasted for 15800 kms after which I replaced them even though I still had some life left to use on the pads. Now, if the Galfer are just as good in the resilient department as the performance department, then I am expecting a life of atleast 20k kms from them. Now, do I need to elaborate more about the VFM this product offers .

Aargee rode my bike for a considerable stretch where he got to test the brakes, among other things. So, maybe he can drop in a few words about his feelings too (not for me, because he already told me , but for the community)

Source - [Ownership Thread]: Honda CBR 250R - Page 210 - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community

Having rode 2 Ninjas for over 150 Kms, just in two sentences...the front brakes on sayhi2sai is equivalent or beats Ninja 250R's braking any day, any time & any where. 101% reliable & most importantly absolute effortless.

For people seeking improvement over STD version...Sorry :(

[dreamseller]

Originally Posted by aargee

For people seeking improvement over STD version...Sorry :(

Just when I thought I'd ask you, got my reply.

Is it, however, possible to retrofit the Nissins from the C-ABS? I'm not too keen on the ABS, as much as I'm for the 3-pot calliper.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by dreamseller

Is it, however, possible to retrofit the Nissins from the C-ABS? I'm not too keen on the ABS, as much as I'm for the 3-pot calliper.

Not at all possible; reasons...
1. Size of the pads are different
2. So next option one might think is buy the caliper kit of ABS & fit on STD; the draw back is that, on the STD, there's an additional hose to the 3rd piston on the Nissin which cannot be tweaked on STD. However, the 3rd piston will still get an action from the other hoses as there's an additional exit for the excess oil to flow back to a reservoir & back to master cylinder (ABS mechanism)
3. This will yield in 3 piston getting engaged a little, however, the pistons will be unable to get back to their original position causing...JAM

[aargee]

Q. Ok, I've bought, what should I do now?
A. First, congratulations & welcome to the club; first & foremost thing you need to do is read the owner's manual thoroughly. Atleast get to know what're the contents covered in the owner's manual, even if you cannot remember everything

Q. Bored of reading manual; want to ride, what should I do?
A. Your owner's manual is the bible for CBR 250R, just follow the instructions provided for riding

Q. When I took the vehicle from delivery, there're some ODO clicked; was my CBR a test ride vehicle once? Shouldn't it show 0?
A. Ideally yes, but practically not; Very reason, they ride the bike to RTO for inspecting & applying registration. You're the best judge here for the fact that, calculate the distance from showroom to RTO & back; if there's anything super exceeding this number, then, your vehicle might've probably misused. Accept anything on reasonable run.

Q. Could it be possible the dealer remove the ODO cable & reset to 0?
A. The speedo/odo readings come from rear wheel of CBR without cables through sensor attached to ECU. So its highly unlikely to tamper with ODO & even if they've to change the entire unit, its an expensive replacement.

Q. Can you explain overall features of my bike?
A. Your CBR 250R comes with 17 sensors (don't ask me what all); some of them are to sense the bike fall to cut off fuel from spilling, ABS in case of CR-ABS owners, Fuel injection (you don't have to turn ON/OFF the fuel knob & makes hard for fuel theft), digital speedo meter to show the speed of travel, ODO & one trip meter that gets reset for every 1000 Kms, digital clock, analog engine RPM meter, left right turn lights indicators, engine mal function switch, ABS malfunction light (for ABS), engine kill switch, storage space under rear seat, helmet lock wire, 9 piece toolkit, 60/55 DC headlight, 12 amps twin parking lamps, vehicle pass light switch, double over head camshaft, 4 valves, O-Ring chain, rear tire hugger, rear grab rail, 5 position adjustable rear pro link mono suspension, 13 litres tank capacity with 10 litres usable.

Q. If there's no concept of reserve, how can I check my FE?
A. Use the full tank method...
1. Fill the fuel ONLY upto the level plate (the one you see inside the fuel tank & the fuel gun doesn't go beyond this point)
2. Reset your Trip meter to 0 (refer owner's manual on how to do it)
3. Keep riding until the fuel bar starts blinking
4. When you fill this time, fill it to the same level as mentioned in step 1 & note down the fuel consumption in litres
5. Note down your trip meter reading & divide it by fuel consumed to get the average fuel consumption (eg if trip meter reads 290 & fuel consumed is 9.14, then the FE is 290/9.14=31.72 Kmpl)

Q. What's the good startup & shutoff procedure? Can I switch off the bike at signals to save fuel?
A. If you care for your bike, then every time you start (not when the engine is operating at optimal temperatures) the engine, allow the engine to idle until the RPM falls down from 2K RPM, it doesn't take even 25 seconds. This will also help to lubricate the internals of the engine which is good; ride like you're breaking in the engine for first 1-2 Kms, by then the engine reaches optimal temperature after that start riding normally (not rip off). Its worth to switch off the engine at signals, if your wait time is more than 15-20 seconds. Stop the engine using the Engine kill switch & allow it remain in the OFF position (or ensure that the fan doesn't run when you switch to ON position as the fan draws power from battery). Switch to ON 3-5 second before you leave the signal & start the engine.

Q. Why does the RPM goes to 2K RPM & then falls down when left idle? Is this normal?
A. The bike is equipped with auto choke facility; hence everytime the bike is started there's more fuel let in by the ECU & hence the higher RPM; once the ECU learns that the bike is warm enough (not optimal operating temperature) the choke is cut off & hence the RPM falls down

Q. Should I get the services done only at the specified intervals or can I get it done earlier/later?
A. Read the service intervals carefully; they say every 6000 kms or Y days/month; so which ever falls first is the LAST opportunity. This means, you can get all your 3 services done NOT BEYOND the specified Kms or days. Anything within it is fine. You may also choose to pay for the service (which ofcourse costs barely few hundreds). But remember, getting it serviced too often (say like 3K kms) are waste; just get the vehicle serviced when you feel issues like hard gear shifts, loud clanks, engine running rough, too much vibrations. Do not leave any minor issues unattended unless you know repurcussions of such issues.

Q. Can I get my bike's 1st service done before 1000 Kms?
A. Yes you can; but wait to feel the roughness in engine; getting it done in 100-200 Kms or around 800 Kms are overkill. Getting it done at right time is more important.

Q. I'm going for my 1st/2nd/3rd service; what all should I keep in mind?
A. Have a look at the back of the respective service coupon, it'll give you a fair idea. Just let the mechanic know if you have any niggles, like fairing rattle, paint peel off from engine/silencer shield, etc & do insist that the issues are written to the job card.

Q. My run-in is mostly in rain. Does my chain get affected due to this?
A. Not much, but still, if you feel the chain is squeaking, then take it to ASC & get the chain lubed. Usually ASC don't charge on such things, but there're instances where they've quoted even ridiculous amounts

Q. Is it compulsory to change the oil filter for the 1st service?
A. Yes, it is very important to change to keep the engine clean from finer metal particles from the run-in. If possible change the engine oil & filter once before carrying out the 1000 Kms service, even if you've to pay for the nominal labour charges

Q. Can I change the idling speed?
A. Neither you nor the ASC can adjust the idling speed; its fixed

Q. What type of Petrol can I use? Can I use Petrol available on highways?
A. Understand very clearly that that RON defines the Octane rating of the fuel; as of now there're only 2 types of RON rated fuel available 91 & 97. 97 is available ONLY from BPCL & called Speed 97. Per law, all the oil companies manufacture & sell 91 RON fuel. It is fine to run the bike with 91 RON; using Speed 97 will only help to gain negligible amount of increase in smoothness & FE. You can fuel in from any good fuel station including highways.

Q. Despite using a good fuel I'm experiencing engine knocking
A. The issue is with riding style; shift down the gear & the knocking will disapper. Prolonged exposure of the engine to such knocking rides will leave the engine in expensive damage.

Q. What're the available tool kit & how can I mount the helmet on my bike securely?
A. Pls see this post Courtesy Sudeepnbr

Q. Does the bike have a Side Stand ON indicator
A. No

Q. Why doesn't my temperature bar go beyond 3?
A. This is quite normal & it is a good sign of happy & healthy engine; Pls see this post

Q. What is the run-in period or engine breaking?
A. A brand new engine out of the factory needs to be used in a specific riding guidelines during the first few hours/Kms of its use. The focus of breaking in an engine is on the contact between the piston & rings of the engine and the cylinder.

Q. How should I run in or carry out engine breaking?
A. Follow what is specified in the owner's manual; it says ride carefully & no sudden acceleration (or deceleration) for first 500 Kms. Just follow that

Q. Its confusing; so what's the max or min speed I should keep?
A. CBR 250R has a modern advanced engine that has slightly better run-in procedure than the conventional engine breaking methods; technically there's no

upper limit on the speed, but ensure the engine is not overloaded. That said, a safe top speed might be about 115-120 Kmph on 6th gear.

Q. Why only 6th? What about other gears?
A. In any gear, DO NOT lug the engine OR over rev the engine. Lugging is the state in which the engine runs on lower speed in higher gear & revving is viceversa. Run at adequate speed & optimal gear. This is only an example & not necessary to be followed...
Gear shift 1-2 at 3000-3500 RPM
2-3 at 3300-3600 RPM
3-4 at 3800-4400 RPM
4-5 at 4200-4800 RPM
5-6 at 5000-5800 RPM
and do a quick gear shift; this means, do not keep holding the clutch for longer time duration when shifting the gear.
Always remember...you can even rev the engine occasionally, but never EVER LUG the engine

Q. After shifting the gear the RPM falls back; why?
A. This is quite natural behaviour of any engine; nothing to worry

Q. Can I follow the motoman engine break in procedure?
A. Follow motoman, pathlaman whatever you want, but remember, the manufacturer knows their machine better than anyone else. Besides, if you want to claim warranty on your vehicle for some reasons, following these procedures may void the warranty, if found. Point - Use at your discreetion which is not adviced.

Q. In how many days should I complete the run-in?
A. Per the owner's manual, it is 1000 Kms or 30 days from the purchase date. 30 days is max cap, but you're welcome to do it in 2-3 days as well (its little riskier to complete in 1 day & strongly worded against)

Q. When should I change the engine oil?
A. Per the owner's manual it is at 1000 Kms; but through collective experience & knowledge it is better to change the engine oil the moment you feel the engine is little rough. Most importantly, you should change the engine oil ONLY when your engine is running at optimal temperature. This means, never change your engine oil when the engine is cold or not been run for quite sometime. Ride the bike for 5-6 Kms atleast & then change the engine oil.

Q. I hear there're better engine oils like Petronas, Motul, Shell, Castrol, can I use 10W-30 FS one among these?
A. Changing the engine oil might lead you to void the warranty, so think twice. But the answer would be, yes there're superior engine oil made by different manufacturers in the market than HMSI supplied one.
Yes - If you think you want to claim warranty, IF at all there's any expensive damage
No - If you think you can afford, IF at all there's any expensive damage

Q. How can I identify if the engine is running rough?
A. It's easier said than done; for this one has to remember how the engine used to run earlier & keep it on a watch; try to complete the engine break in as soon as possible. The sooner you finish the better you can ride

Q. So after 1000 Kms can I start riding in 150 Kmph?
A. Well, its upto one's discreetion; for a better, long engine life, always follow the gradual increase/decrease when accelerating/slowing down.

Q. So ideally I should never ride in T.W.O?
A. Well you SHOULD sometimes ride in T.W.O; remember too much or lacking of anything always leads to suffocation.

Q. So when should I ride in T.W.O?
A. Strict NO for the first 1000 Kms atleast; but after that, try ocassional T.W.O or let's say REDLINE on every gear. Do this exercise on empty stretches for a distance of not more than 10-12 Kms

Q. Will REDLINING harm my engine?
A. Anything overdone yes will harm the engine. The number 10-12 Kms is only a ballpark figure; if you're experienced, try to listen to the engine through all senses & you'll notice a minor stress (which is hard to notice generally). That is the moment you'll need to stop the redlining

Q. Why can't I accelerate beyond certain RPM? Is this normal?
A. Perfectly normal. Accelerating beyond certain limit on RPM damages the engine temporarily or permanently & hence manufacturers have identified a safe RPM limit beyond which the ECU cuts off the fuel preventing any damages to the engine.

Q. The bike has more torque, can I shift from 1 to 3 or 3 to 5 etc?
A. Though there's no hard & fast rule, remember, this is a very very bad riding style; always follow linear gear shifts whether you're shifting up or down

Q. I don't feel the front brake are quite effective on my STD model; what should I do?
A. Yes, CBR STD has a little poor front brakes which is evident on high speeds; to over come this, learn to ride at speeds optimal with respect to the right gear; also learn to shift down the gears when reducing the speeds & refrain from holding the clutch when you're only applying the brake & not shifting the gear.

Q. Can I switch to FS engine oil after my first service or is there any specific number of Kms before the change?
A. Yes you can start using FS from day 1

Q. What engine oil is to be used on CBR?
A. Don't worry on all these things; but for your knowledge, 10W-30 Fully Synthetic (FS) engine oil is to be used which will be available at your HMSI ASC. There are two types of 10W30 oil, GREY can which is mineral & BLACK can which is FS. Use the FS (Courtesy hifisharu)

Q. How many litres of engine oil should I use?
A. Again, don't worry on all these, but for your knowledge, 1.4L w/o oil filter, 1.5L with engine oil filter & 1.9 lts when overhauling. Quantity doesn't actually matter, just ensure that the engine oil level is between the min & max mark found on the glass window of RHS of your motorcycle (clutch side)

Q. Can I change my rear suspension setting?
A. Yes you can with the provided C kind of tool; turning clockwise from top is hardest & viceversa is softest. Ensure to do this from LHS of the bike. You're more encouraged to get this done at HMSI ASC if you're a first time user.

Q. I'm hearing a additional noise from the engine; what should I do?
A. Its more or like the noise from tappets, you'll need to check the valve clearance level & miay need to change the SHIM accordingly. Visit your HMSI ASC. Please DO NOT keep riding with that sound as it is bound to leave the engine in a expensive damaged in course of time.

Q. I'm not feeling confident with my ASC can I change to a different ASC where I feel they're competent enough?
A. Yes

Q. I'm from so & so location, tell me some competent ASC in my locality?
A. Please note, these are the summary observed from owner's experience on this thread
Saphire Honda, Bangalore
Vihaan Honda, Thane
Didar Honda, Chennai
JSP Honda, Chennai

Q. After repeatedly reporting the issues my ASC is not resolving my issues. How can I escalate the issue?
A. Shoot an email to customercare@honda2wheelersindia.com

Q. What is the RED color pipe that is hanging beneath the mono suspension? Should I do anything?
A. A crankcase ventilation system is a way for gases to escape in a controlled manner from the crankcase; there's nothing to worry & every motorcycle has this. Just don't worry on this

Q. I feel there's a hole in my exhaust because I feel the exhaust throw beneath the vehicle in addition to rear
A. There's a small hole between the exhaust pipe & silencer. This is a provision for water to be vented out incase it gets through the silencer. This is normal.

Q. What is the air pressure to be maintained on the bike?
A. 29 for front & rear when riding Solo, 29/33 when riding with pillion. This information is available on the swing arm on the LHS (gear shift side); on cold temperatures

Q. What is tank pad? Do I need to use it? Will it affect anything?
A. It's purpose is to keep the belt buckles and zippers from scratching the paint immediately in front of the seat. It doesn't affect warranty, dynamics or anything for that matter. Ensure to use a high quality tank pad to prevent it from peeling off automatically from the tank or spoiling the paint. This is how it looks Courtesy The Stig

Q. Where can I buy a reliable tank pad in India?
A. Though not advocating, these are some stores where one can buy anywhere in India - Planet DSG & Performance Racing Store

Q. Can I stick them myself or should I take my bike to Pune/Mumbai?
A. If you can ride a CBR 250R, then you can stick it yourself; stick the pad from bottom most position nearly touching the seat & move upwards.

Q. Can I remove the front number plate myself?
A. Though not adviced, yes you can at your own risk of answerable to law. Pls see this post. Courtesy hifisharu

Q. Is there a Daytime Running Light (DRL)?
A. No

Q. Can I ride with my parking lights turned ON? Is that violating the law? Will it drain my battery soon?
A. Yes you can ride with parking lights turned ON, its not law violation; ensure that you don't leave the bike unattended by turning ON the parking lights for prolonged periods (say more than 5-10 mins)

Q. The engine heat fries my thighs, what should I do?
A. Either get used to it or wear riding pants. As long as the temp bar on the console stays 3 or less, everything is fine

Q. I hear a minor tick tick sound after the engine is switched off after every ride. What's the problem?
A. Nothing; that's engine contraction sound found in any 4 stroke IC engine

Q. Does my bike have a open or closed loop fuel injection?
A. CBR has closed loop fuel injection; more about open & closed loop here

Q. My CBR is ABS equipped; can I change to any tire, any brand, any tread pattern or any size?
A. The stock size of rear is 140/70 R17; you can change to any brand, any tread pattern, but never change to any size other than the specified stock size for a very simple reason it leads to speedo error & in ABS it leads to poor braking. Be it ABS or STD, stick to OE size only.

Q. Are the Gear shift & Brake pedal adjustable?
A. Gear shift is adjustable, but not the brake pedals; get in touch with your ASC for this

Q. Why's the speedo cable missing in the front?
A. CBR 250R is equipped with electronic sensor to guage the speed of the vehicle at the rear wheel

Q. How good are the paint protectors, Teflon coating? Can I get it done?
A. Absolute worthless, unless you're getting paint protection film from 3M or Oxford U.K

Q. When doing a break-in the engine, how far can I ride in one day? And how much rest should I give to the engine?
A. There's no limit; you can run your engine even for 24 hours, just that give adequate rest, say about 5-10 min for every 50-75 kms.

Q. What're the benefits of CBR 250R club membership card?
A. Card entitles you to get some useless 5-10% discount vouchers at CCD, Naturals family saloon etc; it also entitles to get CBR spares with 5% discount for the 1st year from the date of purchase.

Note - Friends, if you feel that any other points are to be added, feel free to add your pointers in this thread. Thanks.

[animeshb]

Super! Awesome FAQs for new owners.

I have a question here - My CBR 250R ABS is about 3 months old and I have been able to ride only for 490 kms. I did the First service exactly on the 30th day from delivery and I am riding it sedately as well with very occasional bursts of acceleration. I am planning to make a bike-trip to mussorie in mid-June all alone when my wife and kid will be away. My question is since I got the service done at 250 km odd and got the Oil changed and have since driven another 250 kms do I consider that the engine has now run-in properly? Should I look forward to changing the oil (+filter) again at 1000kms?

[aargee]

Originally Posted by animeshb

My question is since I got the service done at 250 km odd and got the Oil changed and have since driven another 250 kms do I consider that the engine has now run-in properly?

Yes, but do take out very carefully; just follow the instruction of "gradual acceleration" through the trip. If your round trip is not more than 4K odd kms, then simply go ahead. But remember to check...
- engine oil level every 100-200 Km (bike positioned straight)
- engine temperature bar every 100-200 Km
- top up coolant level before you start
- use 10W30 HMSI FS engine oil
- abnormal vibrations
- avoid unnecessary top speed checks
- prolonged use of T.W.O ride
- sudden speed bursts

Originally Posted by animeshb

Should I look forward to changing the oil (+filter) again at 1000kms?

Not really unless you feel a little roughness in the engine

[n_aditya]

Originally Posted by aargee

Q. Can I change the idling speed?
A. Neither you nor the ASC can adjust the idling speed; its fixed

aargee, the Ninja 250R is equipped with a screw that can be turned to vary/adjust the engine idle speed. Are you positive the CBR 250R has no such mechanism?

[aargee]

Originally Posted by n_aditya

aargee, the Ninja 250R is equipped...positive the CBR 250R has no such mechanism?

Yes, there's a screw to adjust, but its risky to touch that as ECM adjusts itself accordingly that may or may not yield to undesirable results. Honda themselves recommend not to meddle with that screw.

So personally, I haven't experimented & if anyone plays with it, they're welcome to share the details here.

[dustom_99]

If it was kinda dangerous/ conflicting with ecu kind of screw, manufacturers would not put it where it is.
And obviously manufacturer would say it is a strict no no for user to touch mechanicals of the vehicle, you guys are smart enough to know the reason for that. Come on it is an idle adjustment screw, it isn't going to blow up anything. Just make a note of initial setting, use it , if you don't like the setting go back to original.

[gthang]

Originally Posted by dustom_99

If it was kinda dangerous/ conflicting with ecu kind of screw, manufacturers would not put it where it is.
And obviously manufacturer would say it is a strict no no for user to touch mechanicals of the vehicle, you guys are smart enough to know the reason for that. Come on it is an idle adjustment screw, it isn't going to blow up anything. Just make a note of initial setting, use it , if you don't like the setting go back to original.

Pretty scary advice. Hope you know what happens when you turn that screw to give out suggestions like that.

Just because manufacturer puts it in an external position, because they have to change settings as per country/region/fuel quality etc, etc, does not mean it is for customers to play with. If you have access to OBD tools and ECM interface, your advice might make sense. But to just mark and turn in today's engines is just plain scary.

Cheers

Ride Safe.

[dustom_99]

What exactly would be scary about that? It is an idle adjustment screw.it would either give you a few more revs our a few less. Changes hence done to air flow and charge composition are still taken care of by ecu. It only make mixture slightly richer, but only for idle jet, not for main, also it opens throttle throat just a bit.

I don't see how would that be a scary advice, specially for a bike rider(this one being into performance bike category)? Bikes are dangerous by there very nature,i would ask you not to chance your life on them.