[n_aditya]

Originally Posted by Positron

Surely if a motorcycle rider needs this sort of stuff to keep him going, he's doing it wrong!!

Not really.

Riding a motorcycle sounds simple but riding one (esp. a sportsbike or a sports tourer) for long distances with minimal breaks in hot summer while wearing at least 2-3 layers of clothing with one layer being a thick cordura or leather jacket with minimal airflow and ventilation will result in profuse sweating leading to dehydration, fatigue and loss of concentration. Add to that a helmet which also causes sweating from the scalp. So in effect, the rider is losing fluids from almost all over his/her body.

Many other factors come into play such as rider fitness, vehicle being ridden (faired bikes emit more heat and hence more sweating), traffic conditions (slow moving traffic = more profuse sweating), etc.

Real life example : Even a short 250-300 km round trip ride over the weekend soaks my tee shirt on the way back. I make do with plain water since the distance is not much but for longer distances i use electral in water since i don't have to stop for long durations to ease fatigued muscles.

[Positron]

Originally Posted by n_aditya

Riding a motorcycle sounds simple but riding one (esp. a sportsbike or a sports tourer) for long distances with minimal breaks in hot summer while wearing at least 2-3 layers of clothing with one layer being a thick cordura or leather jacket with minimal airflow and ventilation will result in profuse sweating leading to dehydration, fatigue and loss of concentration. Add to that a helmet which also causes sweating from the scalp. So in effect, the rider is losing fluids from almost all over his/her body.

This is what I call 'doing it wrong'.

You should never put yourself in a situation where you need electrolytes to keep you going - unless you are a marathon runner who is attempting to cross Thar, and can not or should not stop to have a bite, or could not physically tolerate nutritious food while jogging.

A biker should never put him/herself to that level of stress - not if you want to enjoy biking. I would recommend wearing well vented jackets or mesh jackets, well vented helmets, and leave the visor a crack open if you need to. Take sufficient rest breaks - stretch your legs, quench your thirst with just (good) water, munch on a banana may be - but of course there is no shortage of decent roadside food stalls everywhere.

Anyway, I agree that all this depends on individual's fitness and preferences, but I was just saying electrolytes, energy bars and dried nuts etc are stuff that keeps ultra-distance runners going over 100s of miles in the most inhospitable situations, and if your riding needs that sort of stuff, you are probably riding too hard, imho!

[gthang]

Originally Posted by Positron

This is what I call 'doing it wrong'.

When was the last time you rode a bike in India will full safety gear?

I would really like to see how it is done "right".

Electrolytes and energy bars are not wonder foods, and armchair athletes eat them without exploding with energy.

Nothing "wrong" in suggesting one to stay hydrated and nourished. Just water will not replace your lost electrolytes and supplements definitely help relieve cramps, no matter how "right" or "wrong" you ride.

Cheers

Ride Safe.

[Positron]

Originally Posted by gthang

When was the last time you rode a bike in India will full safety gear?

Never. Last time I rode there was without a helmet, and the longest ever was about 20 kms, and I really enjoyed it too (it never gets into 40s in Kerala). But, I don't understand how that is relevant here though.

Originally Posted by gthang

I would really like to see how it is done "right".

Like n_aditya suggested above - with plenty of breaks for stretching and nourishment.

Originally Posted by gthang

Electrolytes and energy bars are not wonder foods, and armchair athletes eat them without exploding with energy.

I agree. May be you are missing my point. Forget the armchair athletes, and power ranger costume riders, but if a biker *really needs* electrolytes and power bars, they are doing it wrong - as they should really not be needing that - they should be taking more breaks, and riding easy.[/quote]

Originally Posted by gthang

Ride Safe.

Exactly.

I sense some sort of tension in your post - so I will leave this. Biking is for fun, no point getting wound up over it!

[Siddy]

Excellent compilation! Got all my queries answered. The stuff was really informative and all the questions answered were based on practical experiences .

[aargee]

Trying this attempt for Sheel who suggested to keep continuing with the FAQ here, not sure how long things I can keep things organized in one thread as the information is likely to be disorganized & scattered. Hopefully Mods help me on this front...

Q. I don't feel the front brake are quite effective on my STD model; what should I do?
A. Please go through this post (Courtesy Sudeepnbr)

Please register your vehicle with this link for replacement; the excerpts from the link says...

Honda's Recently It has come to the Company’s notice that there may be a possibility of limited ineffectiveness in front brakes application in the standard variant of CBR 250R. But this concern does not impact the overall braking functionality and effectiveness of front and rear brakes under normal riding conditions.

As a responsible manufacturer, Honda will voluntarily replace the “Front Brake Master Cylinder Assembly” in your vehicle, irrespective to the Warranty status of the vehicle. We would like to request you to make an advance booking of your vehicle to avoid any inconvenience.

The problem will be resolved for all affected vehicles free of cost & doesn’t affect ABS equipped Honda CBR250R motorcycles.

Q. What can I expect in this recall?
Here's a small writeup as what one can expect...

Q - What're the parts that are replaced?
- The Master cylinder
- The piston that goes inside (spring, dust cover & the pushrod)
- 100 ml Dot 3 brake oil

Q - Why are they getting replaced?
- It looks like Honda received several complaints that the front brake gets jammed up & they've identified the issue with this kit & hence the replacement

Q - How long does this process take?
- The actual job doesn't take more than 30 minutes if done dedicated

Q - What does this job involved?
- Remove the front brake lever
- Remove the piston kit
- Remove the master cylinder from the connecting hose
- Attach the new master cylinder to the connecting hose
- Attach the piston kit between the brake lever & the master cylinder & tighten
- Bleed the drain bolt at the end of caliper kit & remove the airlock in the brake unit using the provided 100 ml DOT3 brake oil

Q - Can I experience a significant improvement in the braking?
- It's more of personal experience. I didn't experience anything better.

Q - Do I need to return my old parts?
- Yes, the old parts has to be returned

Q - Do they open a job card for this?
- Yes, it's mandatory to open a job card for this?

Q - Any other precautions to be taken?
- Do not allow the ASC to fill any other DOT3 brake oil from any other can. Use the DOT3 fluid from the can is provided along with the recall kit
- Call up & book an appointment with the ASC before you visit, otherwise you may be denied to get the work done immediately
- Ensure that the airlock is completely bleeded from the entire front brake assembly otherwise you're likely to experience sponginess in your braking. Take a short spin around & check the effectiveness of your front brake. Worst case, it has to be of the same stage before changing this M/C kit

Q - Can I use DOT4 instead of DOT4
- Yes, provided your ASC does that for you

Q - Is there any harm using DOT4 instead of DOT3
- No, it only improve

[Sheel]

Yes Ganesh, please update it as frequently as the need arises.

I got the FOC part replaced as well as service done. Please ask them to wash & clean the bike & in particular the disc plate after the replacement.

Mine wasn't & I was about to have the worst fall I ever had.

I don't know if it is me, but the bike seems to pull to its right after this change. Weird.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by Sheel

Please ask them to wash & clean the bike & in particular the disc plate after the replacement

I would never ever ask the ASC to wash the bike for 2 simple reasons...
1. Swirl marks on paint
2. Radiator fins

I'd rather prefer doing it myself

Originally Posted by Sheel

I don't know if it is me, but the bike seems to pull to its right after this change. Weird.

Yes, really weird; let me check in the evening & confirm; ideally it should not happen just for a master cylinder change. Must be something you're noticing now that has been there for a long time. May be.

BTW, CHANGE TO DOT4, STAY OFF FROM DOT3 FOR BETTER BRAKING

[Sheel]

Originally Posted by aargee

I would never ever ask the ASC to wash the bike for 2 simple reasons...
1. Swirl marks on paint
2. Radiator fins

I'd rather prefer doing it myself

I carry my MF cloth & Car Wash. Hence no issues & secondly with the panels being removed, it gets a good wash.

Radiator fins? My mechanic literally stands @ the wash bay throughout. A small place does 've its luxury

Yes, really weird; let me check in the evening & confirm; ideally it should not happen just for a master cylinder change. Must be something you're noticing now that has been there for a long time. May be.

BTW, CHANGE TO DOT4, STAY OFF FROM DOT3 FOR BETTER BRAKING

Its back to normal now I believe.

[naveenroy]

Guys, when the bike is in idle - like at a traffic signal, I can hear a slight knocking noise from the engine. Its not too loud but not the smooth sound it was before. I really cannot explain more than that. Any pointers to what it could be? Shims?

And also, of late, I can hear the front breaks squeaking. Bike has now run 11000 kms - ABS. Thinking of getting the brake pads changed soon.

[Sheel]

Originally Posted by naveenroy

Guys, when the bike is in idle - like at a traffic signal, I can hear a slight knocking noise from the engine. Its not too loud but not the smooth sound it was before. I really cannot explain more than that. Any pointers to what it could be? Shims?

Radiator fan kicking in? Frankly I can't think of anything else.

And also, of late, I can hear the front breaks squeaking. Bike has now run 11000 kms - ABS. Thinking of getting the brake pads changed soon.

Get it inspected & if needed get it changed.

My front pads require a change post every monsoon.

[naveenroy]

Originally Posted by Sheel

Radiator fan kicking in? Frankly I can't think of anything else.

Nope, don't think that is it. I can hear it from the engine. Let me see if this is persisting and will update.

Originally Posted by Sheel

Get it inspected & if needed get it changed.

My front pads require a change post every monsoon.

Yeah, need to check if they are available and get it changed. Planning a long ride end of this month.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by naveenroy

Guys, when the bike is in idle - like at a traffic signal, I can hear a slight knocking noise from the engine

Is it like a beat is missing? If so, ignore it, it's quite common; pls don't ask me the reason though :(

Originally Posted by naveenroy

Thinking of getting the brake pads changed soon.

Ah!! Just for the noise? AFAIK, ABS pads lasts nothing less than 15K; anyway, try to get Galfer; costs less than standard ABS pads in India & you get sharper brakes than Ninja 250R

These guys are quite reliable -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CBR250...12900342079895


@Sheel - Ok

[n_aditya]

Originally Posted by aargee

Is it like a beat is missing? If so, ignore it, it's quite common; pls don't ask me the reason though :(

I had some noise emanating from the RHS of the engine. Minor adjustment was required on the timing chain tensioner which eliminated the noise.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by n_aditya

I had some noise emanating from the RHS of the engine. Minor adjustment was required on the timing chain tensioner which eliminated the noise.

Honda has this issue; a beat that is missing right from day one & have observed in 3 different CBR's. But they occur very very rarely. Can't say I can reproduce the issue consistently, it might it might not.

Let me get the timing chain tensioner checked per your suggestion by this month end.