Team-BHP - The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

Quote:

Originally Posted by sreerajunnithan

I just figured out that i started this thread!!! Well, a lot of things happed after i purchased Machismo 350, To keep it short I sold Machismo to fund my Jeep stupid: So i did not have a bike from 2008. Guess who is coming home? 2009 CI Standard with 10K on clock. I know this bike from last 2 years, It was covered and the owner is in US. They had NO intention to sell it. Finally after a lot of drama, he would be mine today :thumbs up

That is kewl Sree!
A '09 std ci with 10k on clock is quite tough to get these days.. Congrats!
Cheers,
Deepak

I am posting this query on behalf of my friend. He owns a Thunderbird 350. Whenever the clutch of the bike is half engaged or is completely disengaged in the 1st and 2nd gear the bike tends to move forward even though there is no throttle input. It does not happen while starting the bike but occurs after it has been used for about say 10-15 minutes. I do not know as to what is the technical term used to describe this. I have observed this happening in a few cars, diesel SUVs and trucks that I have driven and was told that it is normal for them. However is this normal for a bike? If not then what should be done, why is this happening and what is the technical term used to describe this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bookkeeper (Post 2753567)

Whenever the clutch of the bike is half engaged or is completely disengaged in the 1st and 2nd gear the bike tends to move forward even though there is no throttle input.

Ask your friend not to ride with half clutch first.
Perhaps, the engine rpm is on the high side and the clutch plates need to be checked/replaced.
Clutch cable, Clutch housing (basket- I am not sure about the twin-spark models) also can be looked into, perhaps its not allowing free engage/disengage of the clutch.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeeva (Post 2754426)

Thanks for your reply. He was not riding the clutch. We experienced this during bumper to bumper traffic so there is no option but to keep the clutch partially engaged. I have heard that clutch must only be replaced when rather than the engine rpm dropping when the clutch is engaged, it instead shoots up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bookkeeper (Post 2754611)

I have heard that clutch must only be replaced when rather than the engine rpm dropping when the clutch is engaged, it instead shoots up.

The vehicle speed should increase proportionally as the engine rpm increases. If it doesn't, it means that the clutch is not working as it is intended to.
In your friend's case, the clutch is not disengaging completely. Reason could vary from worn out clutch plates or tension-less clutch springs or something as trivial as adjusting the play in the clutch cable. :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeeva (Post 2754841)

I will definitely ask my friend to get the clutch inspected. Is this what is termed as clutch creep? This may be off topic but in my original post I had stated that I have also experienced the same in various other vehicles that I have driven, so does this mean that they too had trouble with the clutch or is it that this is not a normal thing to occur in a bike?

In my opinion, with the clutch lever fully pulled in to the handgrip the motorcycle should not creep forward.
Likewise, if the motorcycle is up on the center stand and in gear with the engine running the wheel may remain turning if the clutch is pulled in but if one were to grasp the rear tire it should stop turning.

If the motorcycle creeps with the clutch lever pulled fully in it indicates that either the clutch cable needs to be adjusted (giving less free play at the clutch lever when it is released) or the clutch plates have become warped.

The proper amount of "slop" or "looseness" at the clutch lever for a UCE model when it is released should be about 2-3mm. If we are speaking of one of the older models the looseness should be 3-4mm.

If there is more free looseness than these values the cable should be adjusted.

Shortly after buying my Royal Enfield UCE EFI I was reminded by many of the people who own them that although the engine had been redesigned it still had some of the older engine characteristics.

One of these characteristics was the clutch is still like almost all of the older British motorcycles were and it is not designed to be held in for long periods of time when waiting at a traffic light.
It was highly recommended that if I needed to wait at a traffic light, the transmission should be clicked into neutral and the clutch lever released.
Then, when the light changed I could pull in the clutch lever and click the transmission into first gear to proceed.

According to these people, holding the clutch lever in for long periods of time can cause wear on the release bearing and what is worse, the dragging of the clutch pads on the clutch disks can overheat the disks.
Overheating the disks can cause them to warp.

Another thing that can cause excess heat in the clutch disks on the older non-UCE engines is to ride the motorcycle with low oil levels in the left hand primary drive case. The clutches in the Bullets are known as "wet" clutches because they must constantly have oil to lubricate them. A lack of oil will overheat the clutch disks and pads very rapidly causing pad wear and disk warpage.

If the clutch is slipping, that is to say, if the motorcycle engine speed increases without the motorcycles speed increasing that can be caused by worn out clutch pads, weak clutch springs or a incorrectly adjusted clutch cable.

Thanks ArizonaJim for your detailed explanation. Strange thing is that my friend took his bike to the authorised service center and the folks there told him it is normal for bike to creep forward with clutch half engaged/fully disengaged in 1st gear or 2nd gear. I witnessed this today again on a Bolero where it began to lurch forward once the clutch is half depressed and once you shift to 2nd gear then again it moves effortlessly upto speed of 10-15 kmph. Here again the driver claimed it is normal for creep to occur in half engaged clutch.

Perhaps it was my misunderstanding but I assumed we were talking about a fully disengaged clutch causing the motorcycle to creep.

Obviously somewhere between having the clutch lever fully pulled in and totally released there is a place where the clutch plates are lightly rubbing against the clutch pads and a small amount of power will be transmitted from the engine to the transmission.
This controlled slipping is great for starting from a stopped condition.

The "half depressed" condition you mention is that location so, yes, with the clutch lever held in a half depressed position the motorcycle will creep forward.

It is wise not to ride long distances while the clutch is slipping in this manner though because as I mentioned above, it will wear out the clutch pads and possibly damage the clutch plates by causing excessive heat.

so here is a real resource for the delhi bullet guys (most of whom would know him anyways):
Jitender, 9810550243

INDIABIKETOUR - New Delhi, India - Bike tour and Renting

He even gives bikes on rent and support for all rallys and suchlike stuff. (couple of times for Enfield officially as well)

The best part about him is that you just tell what you need, then come back later, or just hang around there, chitchat, have chai, paranthas and things will happen painlessly. He even takes time out to sort out niggles - a rarity in today's world.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjstyles69 (Post 1836276)

I hate coming back here :D , but alas no luck yet. Bike is running fine as of now with zero niggles except for a conked speedo cable.

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This weekend I will head to Dream Machines and have a word with Jaffer as per RVD's advice. Lets see how it goes.
...

hi,
Did you have any luck in finding a good mech in North Bangalore area? I recently moved from Chennai, and am on the hunt for a good mechanic for regular service and a couple of minor niggles. Do share your experience with the mechs you tried out in this area.
Thanks