[sreeJiva]

Originally Posted by antihero

⁸Homecoming and first checkup

Out of the factory the headlight is configured for an unladen bike..

So take 5 minutes, loosen the adjustment nuts sit on the bike with your luggage and refocus the beam. Its important to load the bike as you would on normal runs when adjusting the headlamp throw. Once this is done, I reckon the headlamp is good for upto 65 kmh..

What an insight! It's these simple things that most of us miss but only true DIY guys with proper touring experience can observe and share. Thank you for letting us peep into your brain.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by antihero

⁸Homecoming and first checkup

Kudos!

Not a fan of Hero except when it comes to after sales support, but I have to say it is really a breath of fresh air to go through a detailed ownership review. And I hope you clock many miles on her and keep us all in the loop.

The Xpulse is known to have a bit of QC issues, most notable being the head stud bolts coming loose as seen during last years xBhp ISG2G, and a few other cases of the transmission disintegrating, but having first hand experience with claiming warranty from Hero I'd say even if something goes for a toss you're in good hands.

The first thing that I do with any vehicle that I own is spend a day or two digesting the user manual.....

1. Take apart an put everything that can go wrong on the road and put it back together in the relative safety and comfort of my garage.

2. It helps me prepare my “on the road” toolkit.

The above words alone show that you've had your fair share of motorcycles and riding them.

Irrespective of manufacturer the ownership manuals of the last decade are pathetic, I've even noted inconsistencies with regards to oil quantity when going through my CT100B's manual after purchase.

As for taking the motorcycle apart in the relative comfort of your own garage is something I believe to have mentioned several times in this forum, something that simply cannot be avoided and if done so is against commonsense.

Something I do to make life easy is convert commonly accessed fixtures into allenkey bolts, the spanners are easier to carry and I can access all consumables on the go and even relatively strip the motorcycle by taking the tank and panels off with relative ease and without requiring any additional tools.

A Chetak/Vespa/Rickshaw clutch cable inner and lock also helps, takes a minute at best to swap the inner cable in the event it snaps.

Regards,
A.P.

[antihero]

Originally Posted by SoumenD

Infact the road condition(and a kick-start) is the reason I am considering Xpulse 200 seriously. Test drove the bike a couple of months back and its indeed made for bad roads. Power-wise it doesn't feel like an upgrade from the RTR160 at all(inspite of 40cc & 3BHP increment).

You're absolutely right there's no performance gain to be had with this 200cc engine. It feels and drives like a 150-160cc engine. The only advantage is a broader, flatter torque curve, which can be managed on a 160 with an aftermarket piggyback ECU.

Originally Posted by SoumenD

But thanks to the ever increasing moronic traffic sense among users, I seldom cross 80/90 these days on a 2-wheeler, so this should be fine.

That is true, I still maintain that defensive safe speed on North Indian Highways for 2 wheelers is 80-90. Anything beyond that and you cant account for other's mistakes. Perhaps Im just getting old

Originally Posted by SoumenD

Did you face any issues with the ABS yet? Quite a few reports suggested it being a little weird in behavior, making the brakes hard in emergency situations.

Yes I did, but not on tarmac. More about this below

Originally Posted by VR/46_Chet

The exhaust heat shield on your bike seems to be black as seen on the other colors available, whereas on some other white units it gets a gunmetal finish.

Given the Hero QC (or lack of it) they might have just run out of gunmetal finish and no-one caught it in the inspection.

Originally Posted by VR/46_Chet

Yes, the navigation sucks. Outside city limits, most of the times it just keeps reconnecting forever until you stop - disconnect - reconnect manually.

Keeps telling me internet connection slow despite having a perfect good 1mbps mobile internet connection.

Originally Posted by VR/46_Chet

I think it's just the engine oil that costs ₹3xx. The air filter isn't meant to be replaced until 15k kms (unless there's an issue) and the oil filter is just supposed to be cleaned during the first service.

Exactly. The oil filter is something I change with the first two service. Paranoid maybe, but I want to get rid of any and all metal shavings. From 2nd service on, I will change the oil to a fully synthetic AMSOIL/LIQUI MOLY. Which is probably the only performance upgrade that goes for all my bikes.

Originally Posted by VR/46_Chet

Lastly, I'd like to add that although the USB charger is a nice feature, there's not much space to keep the cellphone (especially given the ever increasing size) and the size of the storage unit could've been a bit more to accommodate.

Oh now that you mention it. The max that I can squeeze in is my spare 5.5 inch screen Lenovo P2. My 6.4 inch phone doesn't fit. But I think its still good to have on a pit stop where you can simply pull a two meter cable to the handlebars (if thats where you mount your phone). I would not trust a phone battery in an enclosed space in the heat especially while charging.

Originally Posted by petrolhead_neel

Congratulations! It is so awesome to see another white XPulse FI on the forum. Our buying experience and yours are eerily matched! I wanted a grey bike at first.

I just reread your posts and you're right, its similar! Which again speaks volume about Hero's dealerships pan India. Crappy service but consistently crappy service

Originally Posted by petrolhead_neel

You have compared the XPulse to some of the benchmark dual-sports of the world, and it hasn't done too terribly I would say. It will take me a long time to be as experienced on the saddle as you are on different bikes and terrains, but so many of thoughts are similar to yours. I made the same observation about how the problem with the seat is how it has been scooped to make it more accessible, and not padding or the lack of it (which is generous when compared to other dual sports). It's a pity that Hero does not pay attention to detail, the bike is wonderful otherwise. The manual (which I think is a half-done job as well) is made for the carb variant.

Coming from two unrelated independent sources adds more weight to the fact taht it must be true. I think that's excellent for potential readers/buyers.

Originally Posted by petrolhead_neel

I have kind of made my way around the front ABS issue, by tapping on it multiple times whenever I sense that it's going haywire. I'm sure it will start acting up when I properly ride off road trails, but from what I know, disengaging the ABS through its fuse will also cause the speedo to stop reading. I wonder what setup they're running the factory prepped Hero race bikes. What do you think about this?

More on the ABS issue down below. But I need to try the "rapidly pumping brake lever" technique after Ive figured out whats causing this lockup in the first place.

Originally Posted by petrolhead_neel

Lastly, Paula says Hi!

Hi Paula You're one looker gal! I don't name my bikes but I'm glad you have. Each bike has a personality and the name is a part of that personality.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

The Xpulse is known to have a bit of QC issues, most notable being the head stud bolts coming loose as seen during last years xBhp ISG2G, and a few other cases of the transmission disintegrating, but having first hand experience with claiming warranty from Hero I'd say even if something goes for a toss you're in good hands.

Well I can safely say that the things I'm doing to this bike will bring out any QC issues (if any) very very soon!

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

As for taking the motorcycle apart in the relative comfort of your own garage is something I believe to have mentioned several times in this forum, something that simply cannot be avoided and if done so is against commonsense.

I'm an ardent follower of your 100 thread. Goes on to prove that small bikes do not mean small fun.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Something I do to make life easy is convert commonly accessed fixtures into allenkey bolts, the spanners are easier to carry and I can access all consumables on the go and even relatively strip the motorcycle by taking the tank and panels off with relative ease and without requiring any additional tools.

Excellent tip. Let me see what I can do here with teh Xpulse and share the results with you soon. Only thing I do not have access to Allen bolts here (nearest big city is Jammu) whenever Im there at my lathe, will get a few and see what can be changed.

[antihero]

There are a large number of "Pradhan Mantri Gram Sampark Yojna" roads in the Hinalaya. This was a visionary scheme started by Atal Vajpayi that links small hamlets with main roads by creating new jeepable roads. On the flip side the roadwork is extremely poor quality and these roads are seldom maintained so these roads fall into disrepair after each snowfall / monsoon. Perfect testing ground for the Xpulse. I decide to explore 3 of such roads on my first Xpulse himalayan sojourn. A total of just over 100 kilometres. The road breakup was 20 km metalled, 30 kilometers metalled and potholled and finally 50 km dirt and gravel.







The kind of roads I plan to travel on.

1. I use my old android phone as a car/bike computer. Yamaha myride app is excellent - Gives you the lean angle in addition to the usual diatnce/time details. And yes I did double check in my garage using a string and protractor. The lean angle calculation is accurate!


Motorcycle cockpit with an old android phone acting as the bike computer


Yamaha myride app with lean angles

2. 220mm of GC will get you through 90% of jeepable roads, including the water crossing at Chotta Dhara, Spiti. For those who know). One deep and rutted nullah crossing meant a sharp rock was kissing the skid plate and pegs. The skid plate passed this test, it is well made - no bends or breaks. Just a long screech that woke all the dogs in the neighbourhood and a deep gash. Xpulse front pegs are spring loaded - the kind that fold up, which is what saved them. The impact did chip the paint off and bend one of the peg holders but what the heck, this is why I bought a cheap bike in the first place.
3. The now infamous ABS issue rose its head once during this trip and once on my 750km running in. Both times on really bad roads under heavy braking. The effect is that the brake lever becomes hard and no front brake can be applied, irrespective of how hard you press the lever. It only lasts for a second but it can be disconcerting.
It is my theory it happens in the following scenario. a) hard braking ABS kicks in b) Tyre off the ground (in a deep pothole or over ruts where it is airborne for a fraction). I plan to find or create a mud speedbreaker and test this theory. In the meantime I have been doing my motojitsu course braking practice on tarmac. This means accelerating to 40kmph and then practicing emergency stop from 40kmph in under 18 feet. Around 120 such practice runs I have not faced this ABS issue. So if you ride only on tarmac, this is not a concern. On bad roads the only solution so far seems to disable the ABS (by unplugging the fuse). I am tweeting heromotors about this as well and I request all Xpulse owners to do the same. Only in face of customer pressure will we see a recall and/or change.

P.s. found an old Baoli (spring water) along the route and some mustard fields.

Next - More badroading and ABS update.

[petrolhead_neel]

Originally Posted by antihero

3. The now infamous ABS issue rose its head once during this trip and once on my 750km running in. Both times on really bad roads under heavy braking. The effect is that the brake lever becomes hard and no front brake can be applied, irrespective of how hard you press the lever. It only lasts for a second but it can be disconcerting.

I found an update video and posted it on the main XPulse thread, cross posting it here as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHtR...s9jErVYPudoM48

It's in Bengali, but what it says is that there is an ongoing recall where they are changing the MiniMAB unit for free as long as there is valid warranty.

Just like you, I have faced the ABS issue just twice, on day 1 and today. I have ridden aggressively and braked as well, but all has been fine other than these two times. It is definitely not as dangerous as some owners are pointing it out to be, for me, but my bike has only done 360kms and none of that has been on congested traffic-ridden roads.

Hero's service is pathetic, I'm not really counting on them anymore. My question is, does our bike have the new ABS unit? How do we make sure? Do we just go forward with the replacement (I am weary of the process already)? Please do let me know what you think.

Don't know about their Twitter handle (I don't use Twitter myself), but I have talked to the VP of Hero, Mr. Sanjay Tripathi, a couple of times. He's a gentleman and he was the one who asked me to go ahead with the BS4 late last year. When I asked him about the ABS issue, he said that there wasn't any issues in the first place and if there was, the update will be a software update and can be done on any bike.

Took her out on a trail today, and other than this issue, this is one fine motorcycle . While the engine isn't really comparable to modern mills as you have mentioned, it is actually a lot of fun on the trails. I am just starting to exploit the mid range and the super short first gear is a lot of fun. You have to be generous with the throttle hand because down low, the engine's dead (and sounds very commuter-ish). Comes alive post 4k, and the linear spread of torque (again, just repeating your observations) is super fun on the trails, accompanied by a throaty grunt which is just loud enough to not be super attention seeking.


Glad to see another motorcyclist practising MotoJitsu drills, I have a learnt so much from that guy and there is so much left still!

Neel

[antihero]

A quick slice of thought when I was descending a very very steep and muddy hillside on my xpulse.
Could the super short first gear be intentional? Yes if you consider engine braking down a steep muddy hill. In such a situation the best practice is "No CAB (Clutch, Brake or Accelerator)" and a very short gear provides enough engine braking to do just that.

Just putting it out there as a point to ponder.

[petrolhead_neel]

Originally Posted by antihero

A quick slice of thought when I was descending a very very steep and muddy hillside on my xpulse.
Could the super short first gear be intentional? Yes if you consider engine braking down a steep muddy hill. In such a situation the best practice is "No CAB (Clutch, Brake or Accelerator)" and a very short gear provides enough engine braking to do just that.

Just putting it out there as a point to ponder.

When I saw/read the reviews online, I thought that the super short first gear was going to be a problem. I started riding the bike with that thought playing subconsciously. Now, though, I am pretty sure that it was intentional. It's a coincidence that only today I did the same first gear crawl downhill. It wasn't that steep to warrant it, but I just wanted to try it out. It works really well, the bike is super stable and slow. The same thing works the opposite way as well. Steep uphills where you are going slow with less momentum or having to stop in the middle should really see this first gear being used. Most people in this country don't really rev their engines (again, I don't know why people can't think logically and keep on lugging their engines assuming that they are extracting the most fuel efficiency). But I was constantly switching between 1st and 2nd today, going up till 6.5k on the first gear for a small section of the trail ( I really need to complete the run in). It turns out that shifting to second at that point is quite smooth. Maybe not as linear as 2nd to 3rd, but nothing troublesome. It's the same on my Twister as well, much more exaggerated. The extremely short first gear is the only reason why I have made it out of some steep inclines with 9 horses and road tyres.

Just imagine how it's going to be with the sprocket change.

Neel

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_neel

Just imagine how it's going to be with the sprocket change.
Neel

Try fitting the duke 200 rear sprocket in there. It’s a direct fit. I’ve ridden one with this installed and it’s a hoot and a half. But my experience is limited to a tight mx track and a flat track. So the reduced top end might be a bother for long-ish road journeys

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

Try fitting the duke 200 rear sprocket in there. It’s a direct fit.

Just to add.

Duke 200 comes with both 4(Initial 43T) and 6(Later 42T) point rear sprockets, so do make sure to confirm which one suits the motorcycle before taking the plunge.

I'm going to presume its the 4 Point one, in which case you have the following options;

36T - Pulsar 220 DTSi
37T - Pulsar 220 DTSFi
38T - Pulsar 200 DTSi
39T - Pulsar 180 DTSi UG4
43T - Gen 1 Duke 200

Going for the 43T from the Duke 200 ensures that the ratio would be at 3.3 which is just about what you get with the rally kit's front sprocket.

Regards,
A.P.

[petrolhead_neel]

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

Try fitting the duke 200 rear sprocket in there. It’s a direct fit. I’ve ridden one with this installed and it’s a hoot and a half. But my experience is limited to a tight mx track and a flat track. So the reduced top end might be a bother for long-ish road journeys

Since we are on the discussion of sprockets, there's another aftereffect of the sprocket change.

The gear indicator goes blank as soon as the clutch is pressed, which makes me confident that it's not actually a gear indicator, but just a computer calculating the gear based on the speed and RPM. Sprocket change would make the gear indicator go kaput. I wonder if this is what you found on the bike that you rode? I also wonder if this thing can somehow be turned off altogether. And finally, like always, I wonder what setup they're running on the factory race bikes.

You have to give it to Hero for the console though. I love it. Something like a CRF450L gets a basic LCD. This seems to be inspired by TrailTech, and that's awesome! Maybe it was done to lure in more Indian customers, but the end result is great. The Hero RideGuide app has also improved quite a bit now, and the lesser talked about feature is the call alert which I find very helpful. The only gripe while using this feature is that you have to turn on location whenever you connect to the bike, and just that makes it not worthwhile due to draining of the battery. Haven't really put the navigation to test.

Neel

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_neel

The gear indicator goes blank as soon as the clutch is pressed

Disconnect the Clutch Switch and see if this happens.

[petrolhead_neel]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Disconnect the Clutch Switch and see if this happens.

Okay, will do! But why would it be connected to the clutch anyways if it does not work on the RPM:speed principle? Ideally, you should still be able to see what gear you're in independent of where your clutch is. On the XPulse, a small tap makes it go "-" . When riding off road, the clutch is never supposed to be fully released.

Neel

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_neel

Okay, will do! But why would it be connected to the clutch anyways if it does not work on the RPM:speed principle? Ideally, you should still be able to see what gear you're in independent of where your clutch is. On the XPulse, a small tap makes it go "-"

The Clutch switch is basically a ground switch, and the grounding could be what's making the gear position indicator go blank.

Hence you could confirm this by temporarily disconnecting the clutch switch and pulling in the clutch while shifting gears.

When riding off road, the clutch is never supposed to be fully released

Let me save you the trouble, that is Bullshit and is the results of Cheap Internet and way too much spare time spent on YouTube and not actually riding.

Here's what happened to me when I never fully released the clutch on a small trail during the previous ISG2G.

Bajaj CT100B - Utilitarianism Redefined!

Obviously error on my part for having a pillion on-board which resulted in me simply being unable to overcome the obstacles without slipping the clutch.

So I guess you'd not need more explanation on why not to slip the clutch unnecessarily. Its commonsense.

Cheers,
A.P.

[Red Liner]

I think the gear indicator is connected to the ECU. I had an aftermarket unit connected to the ecu on the Versys and it had a similar-ish issue. Would read the gear only after i fully released the clutch and disengaged.

Gear indicator does not exist in the carb model if i am not mistaken.

[antihero]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

My only concern is the tube type tyres. I am very paranoid about getting stuck in middle of no where or when attending an important appointment because of a flat tyre. Once i came home from an important last moment event and saw a huge nail stuck in the rear tyre which is tubeless. Wondered, how inconvenient it would have been if it was a tube type tyre

For you, would it not be more applicable since you tour on remote hilly roads. How would you deal with a flat at high, cold mountain roads?

You're right about the inconvenience of tubed tyres in today's day and age. The solution as I see it are only two. One I'd to get a sealant - formula x is getting good reviews recently. Cost about 1500 inr for both tyres. Advantages - ease of use, nothing to carry
Or
Arry spare tubes front and rear with a set of tyre levers. This is my preferred solution because I'm usually not in a hurry so an hour spent fixing a puncture is usually not a problem. Two extra tubes are far more versatile when it comes to larger punctures like a slash (as opposed to a prick) where a sealant will be of no use. Disadvantages. The extra time spent and the weight of tubes and levers.

So the choice is simple really. In and around the city I would choose formula x or similar sealant. For off the beaten track i would choose extra tubes.