[tharian]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

My guess would be the spark plug is fouled and should be replaced.

Jim, I forgot to mention the plug was changed as well sometime back.
However, keeping this is mind I checked the plug and saw it very white. Checked the air screw after and so that it was open much more than required and dialed it down which has stopped the misfiring.

I have to fine tune it since for some reason I can feel that it not perfect . The misfiring has gone at start up for now which is good.

[B O V]

Originally Posted by tharian

The issue is that , on starting the bike, the firing misses, quit a bit that every alternate fire is a miss and this happens mainly when engine is cold and when the throttle is opened slightly. If I roll open the throttle slightly and keep at that position, it keeps misfiring until the engine dies. But if I whack open it to high revs, it does not miss., but it still gasps when whacked open suddenly.

I had this exact same issue a while ago on my 350.

Is your caruburettor adjusted correctly? That could be the issue. Atleast it did the trick for me.


Regards,

BOV

[tharian]

Originally Posted by B O V

I had this exact same issue a while ago on my 350.

Is your caruburettor adjusted correctly? That could be the issue. Atleast it did the trick for me.


Regards,

BOV

Yes, it was the air screw which was opened too much.
My guess was some mech had adjusted it earlier because this bike was running on a free flow exhaust and K&N conical filter. Now it is all stock , except for the air filter, which is the old type in the air box and not tool box.

I need to know how many full rotations need to be me made on the air screw from closed. Any idea?

[Dodge_Viper]

Had a very weird problem recently. The bull was dormant for about 8-9 days so decided to start it and do a short ride nearby. After initial hiccups it finally started then rode it for around for 4-5 kms and came back. Just happened to glance at the engine oil level and to my horror it was empty! It scared the living daylights out of me. While riding I didn't notice any strange behaviour. Called up a friend who said this is very rare thing to happen. He advised me to tilt the bike to right side and then check the level. Tried that but no luck. I did not find any oil leaks anywhere nor any oil dripped on ground.

Next morning the oil level was visible but it was just above the low mark. Heaving a sigh of relief I went to the local mechanic who put it on main stand and started it. Told me to have a look and there it was. Full oil level.

Is this normal behaviour for oil level to disappear? Bike was kept on mainstand all the time. This happened last Saturday and after that I have not rode it and oil level is still full.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper

Is this normal behaviour for oil level to disappear? Bike was kept on mainstand all the time. This happened last Saturday and after that I have not rode it and oil level is still full.

Absolutely normal, infact that is the correct method to check oil level for the UCE-s.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...ml#post3291759

[B O V]

Originally Posted by tharian

I need to know how many full rotations need to be me made on the air screw from closed. Any idea?

What I do is adjust the pilot jet screw for fastest engine speed. Then reduce the speed with the stop screw once again, and repeat the pilot jet
adjustment. Do these until you get the best possible idle adjustment. Engine shouldn't die or go flat on suddent throttle opening. Since the problem occurs during cold start I check the next morning if its rectified. It took me a few days of messing about to get it right when I did it.

I've noticed that the mechs don't adjust the pilot all the way for fastest engine speed, simply because I suspect that step isn't needed.

I'll quote P.Snidal (whos service manual I follow) here for your reference

The pilot jet covers only the idle range (0- 1 /8 throttle.) To adjust idle, or tick-over, first ensure that there is a minimum slack in the throttle cable - about 1/8"-3mm.

Take the machine the machine for a short ride to warm it up, and put it on the center stand with engine running.

"Blip" the throttle to ensure that the cable has gone slack, and adjust the throttle stop screw (on the side of the carburetor) to a position in which it will, when tightened, raise the throttle slide up and down to ensure that it is in fact changing the throttle opening.

Adjust the throttle stop screw for minimum and cleanest-running idle speed, and then adjust the pilot screw to reduce the idle speed.

Work back and forth with the two screws until the best, cleanest, lowest idle is attained.

I hope this helps.

Regards,

BOV

[rakesh_r]

Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper

Is this normal behaviour for oil level to disappear? Bike was kept on mainstand all the time. This happened last Saturday and after that I have not rode it and oil level is still full.

It's absolutely normal.If in doubt with the ignition OFF ,slowly use the kick starter ,you will be able to see some oil from the sight glass.

[ArizonaJim]

Some of the reasons the oil level in the sight window seems to fluctuate a lot is because the engine has several places for the oil to hide.
Adding to this, the sight window is on the extreme right hand side of the engine so a very small amount of tilt to the left, either before the motorcycle is placed on the center stand or while it is sitting on the center stand will cause the oil in the right hand engine side cover (where the oil shows in the sight window) to flow to the left side of the engine.

Once this happens, the oil usually doesn't return to the right hand engine cover so it appears that there is no oil in the engine.

This is the reason Royal Enfield is very specific about how to check the oil level.

First, the motorcycle must be on very level ground, sitting on the center stand.

Next, start the engine and allow it to run for at least 45 seconds. This allows the engine to pump any excess oil in the left hand engine cover and in the area where the crankshaft is back into the internal oil tank.
After the engine has run a bit, shut it off and wait for the oil that was pumped into the cylinder head (to lubricate the valves and rocker arms) to drain back down into the right hand side cover.

After doing this, check the oil level. It should be somewhere between the bottom and the top of the sight window.

Although Royal Enfield says the level should be centered in the window, I've found that variations between near the bottom and near the top are not a reason for alarm. If the oil level is showing somewhere in the window, all is well.

Happy Riding.

[PRADEEP KUMAR]

Folks,
My DS returned from first service week back, haven't used him after that as i was away.
This morning the self would not work, and on kick starting he came back to life and after 2 minutes of revving tried self again would not start.Battery dead?pls advice.

Meanwhile, have ordered my Glasswool goldstar from Sans yday...

cheers

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by PRADEEP KUMAR

Folks,
My DS returned from first service week back, haven't used him after that as i was away.
This morning the self would not work, and on kick starting he came back to life and after 2 minutes of revving tried self again would not start.Battery dead?pls advice.

Try the horn without turning on the engine. If it is sounding weak or no horn at all then battery is drained.

On another note, revving for 2 minutes will not charge back the battery even with a healthy alternator. Take her out for a ride and keep the RPM on the higher side on lower gear.

[drdeepudev]

Would like to post few doubts regarding the digital cluster in my new thunderbird. The clock which is displayed is never correct. Even if I reset that to right time, it slowly slows up and is half hour late within a weeks time. Secondly, I've posted about the fuel guage/ bar display. Even if in full tank it shows half/ empty tank. As advised in the forum, I've told them to check the float which I was told is fine. Also, the trip meter has a mind of its own. I had done a 250km ride last day. Into the ride, after crossing around 35km, the trip meter showed 386km and it is calculating from that number.
The vehicle is 6 months old, but as per the odometer reading( if I can trust that), it shows 17636km which is well outside the warranty. I've sent a mail to Royal Enfield customer care requesting a change, but I'm not sure whether it will be honoured.
My doubts:
1. Is it possible to get it repaired? If so from where?.
2. If I have to replace the cluster, any idea about the cost?
3. Or should I continue using this in this condition? I know it has nothing to do with mechanicals but it doesn't look right.
Thanks and regards, Dr Deepu Dev

[Driving_Nomad]

Originally Posted by PRADEEP KUMAR

Folks,

My DS returned from first service week back, haven't used him after that as i was away.

This morning the self would not work, and on kick starting he came back to life and after 2 minutes of revving tried self again would not start.Battery dead?pls advice.



Meanwhile, have ordered my Glasswool goldstar from Sans yday...



cheers

I had a similar issue a couple of days ago when my classic 500 was drenched in the rain. The electric start wouldn't work and would just make a "tik" sound (like how it sounds when the battery is dead on an M800). Nevertheless, it started on a kick and after riding for 4-5 km and when I tried starting it with the electric start at a signal, it worked. May be there was some water that had percolated near the contacts in my case.

[Argan365]

I have been facing a recurring problem on my TB500. This is the second instance where the the O2( breather) pipe has turned brittle and showing cuts on various places due to which the bike is idling at much higher RPMs than usual, About as high as 1200. The last time I got this replaced at the ASS they seem to use the same material which didn't look like a very high quality, about 6-8 months ago. On checking with the service folks they mentioned that this is a known issue but dont have a better quality pipe.
Does anyone know if there is a better quality material available in the market which doesnt give this problem ?

Thanks,
Arvind

[rki2007]

Riding comfort is literally bothering me the most with my tbts 350. I have tried adjusting the suspension to the last possible level as per the advise on this forum but still it is really hitting me badly if the bike hits a pothole or a hump.

I would want to give a last try to do something for this issue so that I need not look out for other bikes.

Suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[Argan365]

Originally Posted by rki2007

Riding comfort is literally bothering me the most with my tbts 350.

Thats strange considering its probably the most comfortable bike in the RE stable presently. When you say riding comfort, is it more to do with the pain or in general the quick fatigue, do you see that over short city rides or long distance ?

Having said that I would normally look for things like the over inflation of tyres & riding position itself. I'm assuming you have already got the Shock absorbers checked if they are in good condition. I suggest that you also look at more padding or little customization to the seat itself which makes it more comfy.

Thanks,
Arvind