Team-BHP - ARTICLE: How to Run-In your new car

I follow the cut off mode always. the following are the advantages over the shake and fill method -

1. During shake and fill most of the time the Fuel overflows due to careless pump attendants (>50% of the time this happens).
2. Fuel expands when temprature increases. If you fill the Fuel in the morning, fill it to the brim using shake and fill method and then use the car only for a few KMs to work there are chances of overflow of Fuel from the tank due to expansion. This I haven't experienced myself but have heard people say.
3. During Shake and fill one tends to loose fuel or change (Invariably our petrol pump folks will not have 1-2 rs. change ).

I still cant figure why the obsession with accurate FE, approximate FE is fine if you ask me. Apart from the above post, I for one believe that filling to the brim is a bad idea, since it confuses the safety system in your car, am talking about the spill valve and over flow can which also gets filled.

The better way to get minimal air lock is to have the tank filled slowly, than at full flow. Try this and see you will get consistent FE readings. Alternate option is to use the bottle technique where fuel is fed from a separate can, this is tedious since it involved disconnecting fuel lines and all.

Full tank is 38 litres if i remember correct.

I bought Maruti Dzire diesel but could not find speed/RPM at which each gear should be used during RUN-IN period. Usually this information is also on a sticker pasted on windshield,but I did not find it either.
Can someone point me to such RUN-IN peiod recommendations? Thank you!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by saurabhb2000 (Post 851184)

Saurabh if its not specified in the user manual or on a sticker you can follow the same gear ration that is followed in a Swift. Call up the dealer and you can get the same info.

Worst case when you are driving ur car make sure that the car is not pushed really and that should be fine.

Hey team,my dad got his brand new Chevy Captiva delivered today. Its an auto transmission and yeah, he uses it in qatar. Now the dealer is so lowsy that he just got the papers signed and handed the keys. Dad was already too pissed off on them due to their inefficiency throughout, so he just drove out without asking any info about running-in the engine, svc, etc.

Now, I checked the manual to find any run-in procedures. All it had was 4-5 simple points like dont rev hard in low gears etc, which any lame idiot can make out. Now how should we run-in the engine? Is it the same way thats mentioned at the beginning of this thread? And when will the first service take place? I guess I need to make a visit to the showroom to enquire all these tom.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsk1979 (Post 806309)

I don't worry about measuring FE. I just put the odometer reading in a google spreadsheet, along with cost and liters.
So I now have the exact FE computed over 20,000kms along with cost/km.

Finally someone that thinks the same way. I think your method is far more precise as it reduces the margin of error by spreading it across larger volumes. It's the same method I adopted to test the FE on my Cielo moons ago. It yielded 11 kmpl over Rs 6000 worth fuel, and made me more happy than any point results could have - for instance distance done on 1 litre or even 10!

Got my i10 yesterday. In the service manual it says no special run-in procedures are required. But to keep the rpm between 2000-4000 rpm. Now isn't that a little on the higher side? Since the generally accepted limit here in this thread seems to be 2500 rpm only.

Anand.S

Quote:

Originally Posted by anandtheleo (Post 881662)

2000 rpm is babying it if you ask me, if you sedately change rpm between 2000 to 4000 there is no harm.

Let me again post, its not how high the rpm climbs BUT how fast you climb it that matters while running in. If you do it in a very normal/sedate fashion modern engines wont have any issues.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaggu (Post 881844)

hi,

Initially I was made aware that I shouldn't be raving up my engine beyond 2500 rpm for the first 1000-1500 kms. However I tried to abide by it. Yes I think it not how much but how soon you rev up to 4000 rmp matters. Great insightclap:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaggu (Post 806231)

Hi,

I think what I have been doing is go to the Fuel Station and put the Fuel pipe in fully. Put it on to the continuous flow till it cuts off on its own. Set your trip meter to 0. Then drive around and do the same process and check how many litres got in. check how many kms driven against the number of litres gone in.

Umm, koshun.

I just kinda miss the whole argument here - the 2500 RPM thing makes some sense for petrols. But for diesels, that's just the region where the turbo picks up. I've read some people recommending keeping car at or below 2200rpm first thousand km, which doesn't make snese.

As somoene whose mototuned his bike, I don't see any reason why atleast 70-80% of the rev range cannot be explored (slow buildup) like Jaggu has suggested. As is, the delivery guys at the dealer would have revved the car to begin with!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by phamilyman (Post 989683)

the 2500 RPM thing makes some sense for petrols. But for diesels, that's just the region where the turbo picks up. I've read some people recommending keeping car at or below 2200rpm first thousand km, which doesn't make snese.

Running in has more to do with BHP than with RPM.
That is what makes it complicated to explain to the lay user.
RPM may well be below 2500 but the engine can be stretched to very high BHP, and that is not desirable!

Quote:

Originally Posted by anupmathur (Post 989691)

I didnt get this, could you please elaborate on this?