[zoombiee]

Originally Posted by Edsel Rulez!

It's a medium frame, which is slightly small for me, so I had to increase the seat height... but that made the handlebar too low. I wasn't comfortable in the crouched position, so I installed a steerer extender to raise the height of the handlebar by about 3 inches. Though a bent-over position is good for speed, a more upright position offers better visibility of the road and is also more comfortable in traffic. And yes, the Brooks saddle is very comfortable. I keep swapping it with my two other bikes when I want to ride those. I should ideally buy one for each bike but I can't afford to.

I feel you have compromised a bit on the ergonomics of the cycle. If you arent doing really long rides, there should be no problem. I had a similar setup where I brought a slightly smaller frame. I raised the handle bar as the seat tube was adjustable. Any ride more than 50k gave my stiff lower back.

[Edsel Rulez!]

Had no option; this bike is a tad small for me. The saddle is quite plush without being bouncy, and so far I've not had any back trouble. I don't use this for long rides -- as I mentioned, it's a city runabout. But I may ride it 50-60 km at a time on weekends if it's raining. In fact, I recently ordered a pair of full-coverage fenders for this; those should go on sometime next week.

[zoombiee]

Originally Posted by Edsel Rulez!

Had no option; this bike is a tad small for me. The saddle is quite plush without being bouncy, and so far I've not had any back trouble. I don't use this for long rides -- as I mentioned, it's a city runabout. But I may ride it 50-60 km at a time on weekends if it's raining. In fact, I recently ordered a pair of full-coverage fenders for this; those should go on sometime next week.

Enjoy the slush. Dont use fenders .

[LonelyPlanet]

Any budget bicycles that I can pick up at Decathalon ? Can guru's advice if RR 5.1 is a decent buy for a newbie ?
I dont think that you get schwinn at this outlet.

[zoombiee]

Originally Posted by LonelyPlanet

Any budget bicycles that I can pick up at Decathalon ? Can guru's advice if RR 5.1 is a decent buy for a newbie ?
I dont think that you get schwinn at this outlet.

What do you plan to do with the cycle. If its just for fun, I would recommend ACT110. Its cheaper, is a hybrid and has thumb shifters. RR 5.1 is a hard tail with revo shifters (if I am not wrong). The build quality of RR is much better though.

[Edsel Rulez!]

More importantly, the Rockrider comes in multiple frame sizes (S,M and L) while the ACT 110 (AFAIK) comes in only one size. I believe the revamped ACT 110 is now called the Neo, but even so I'm sure the RR is better put together.

[selfdrive]

I am looking for a new bicycle for my 6 year old son, please recommend which ones to consider. we would want one with good build that can survive a few falls. Budget in 4 figures only.
Yes, he has a helmet and wrist/ elbow/ shin guards and will be riding inside the society compound.

He is not very confident of riding on 2 wheels yet, so would also appreciate advice if I should fit those extra 2 wheels to support him or make him learn on 2 wheels only.

[zoombiee]

Originally Posted by Edsel Rulez!

More importantly, the Rockrider comes in multiple frame sizes (S,M and L) while the ACT 110 (AFAIK) comes in only one size. I believe the revamped ACT 110 is now called the Neo, but even so I'm sure the RR is better put together.

RR is better except for the Grip Shifters. They are very very unreliable and usually are difficult to operate during emergencies.
ACT110 comes only in one size. If height is between 5'7" to 5'9" it should fit well (Handle bar is slightly adjustable). More importantly the ACT is a hybrid, so easier and more fun to ride.

[swarnava.m]

I have recently bought a Hero Hawk Nu-Age. Quite pleased with it overall, specially the weight. It is so easy to walk it, almost feels effortless, even with one hand.

However, the only thing that is really bothering me is the brake levers that are placed below the handle bar. I am talking about the plastic levers, not the curved metal ones that are placed vertically along the lower handle. These plastic levers are connected to the metal ones, and work along the same cable.

Using the metal levers, the brakes are fine. But while I sit in an upright position and hold the horizontal handlebars, trying to use the brakes below it is of absolutely no use. They just seem so inadequate, as if someone is merely trying to pull the cycle from behind. Nothing more. Once, right after purchasing the cycle, I applied the brakes, but since the cycle didn't seem to stop, I pressed them harder, and the left (rear) brake lever came right out of the groove. Quite scary!!

Is this normal or is there a fault in my cycle? Other Hawk owners may be able to tell me this. Thanks.

[shyamk]

Originally Posted by swarnava.m

Using the metal levers, the brakes are fine. But while I sit in an upright position and hold the horizontal handlebars, trying to use the brakes below it is of absolutely no use. They just seem so inadequate, as if someone is merely trying to pull the cycle from behind. Nothing more. Once, right after purchasing the cycle, I applied the brakes, but since the cycle didn't seem to stop, I pressed them harder, and the left (rear) brake lever came right out of the groove. Quite scary!!

Is this normal or is there a fault in my cycle? Other Hawk owners may be able to tell me this. Thanks.

That is quite normal in the Hero Hawk. Just remember to use the regular brake levers (The ones in the bent position & not the upright ones) whenever you need them.

AFAIK, the Hawk is a tremendous value for money. It can really fly if you want it to.

Shyam

[swarnava.m]

Originally Posted by shyamk

That is quite normal in the Hero Hawk. Just remember to use the regular brake levers (The ones in the bent position & not the upright ones) whenever you need them.

AFAIK, the Hawk is a tremendous value for money. It can really fly if you want it to.

Shyam

Thanks. There is another thing I forgot to mention. My cycle is fitted with Shimano Gears. Often, they don't slot properly. What I mean is, when I slot into 3rd from 4th, I can hear some noise from the chain, but at that moment if I slot into 2nd and back into 3rd, it seems fine. This happens over the entire gear range.

When I asked the mechanic at the shop, he told me to just slot gears while I am pedalling, no other measures to be taken. However, I am not quite sure he was correct. But the problem is that I don't exactly know how the gear system in a cycle is to be operated. Any pointers?

[zoombiee]

Originally Posted by swarnava.m

Thanks. There is another thing I forgot to mention. My cycle is fitted with Shimano Gears. Often, they don't slot properly. What I mean is, when I slot into 3rd from 4th, I can hear some noise from the chain, but at that moment if I slot into 2nd and back into 3rd, it seems fine. This happens over the entire gear range.

When I asked the mechanic at the shop, he told me to just slot gears while I am pedalling, no other measures to be taken. However, I am not quite sure he was correct. But the problem is that I don't exactly know how the gear system in a cycle is to be operated. Any pointers?

This is a very very common situation with cycles. You need to try the following -
1 -> lubricate the rear gear assmebly well. Dont leave drippig oil, just a think coat
2 -> There would be 2 screws on the gear assembly that determine the extent of the jump when you change gears. You will have to play around with them. Its plain try and check method.

The chain sound comes because the the chain hasnt shifted to the right sprocket, but the gear assembly is pushing it towards that sprocket. That should also get solved.
Also, cycle gears should only be shifted when pedalling and not when idle (Just checking). Dont allow local mechanics to lubricate your cycle. If you allow them the next day your entire sprocket/chain/cassete will be full of muck. You only get the gear adjustment done by them if you are not able to do it.

[swarnava.m]

Originally Posted by zoombiee

This is a very very common situation with cycles. You need to try the following -
1 -> lubricate the rear gear assmebly well. Dont leave drippig oil, just a think coat
2 -> There would be 2 screws on the gear assembly that determine the extent of the jump when you change gears. You will have to play around with them. Its plain try and check method.

The chain sound comes because the the chain hasnt shifted to the right sprocket, but the gear assembly is pushing it towards that sprocket. That should also get solved.
Also, cycle gears should only be shifted when pedalling and not when idle (Just checking). Dont allow local mechanics to lubricate your cycle. If you allow them the next day your entire sprocket/chain/cassete will be full of muck. You only get the gear adjustment done by them if you are not able to do it.

Thanks a lot for the suggestions. (Wish there was a "Thanks" feature in this thread )..

I will certainly carry out those procedures, and then report back with the results. Any tips on what kind of oil I should use and where I may be likely to find it?

[zoombiee]

Originally Posted by swarnava.m

Any tips on what kind of oil I should use and where I may be likely to find it?

This is a big debate. From whatever I had read and tried there is no right answer to this. You could try parachute oil. The key is to no leave excess oil anywhere. After lubricating please wipe it as clean as you could.
Some people would frown down upon Parachute oil, but it works like a charm. After you stop cycling it solidifies and does not attract muck. When you cycle it melts and lubricates well.

[WindRide]

Does applying something like waxpol hard wax to crome parts of a bicycle (spokes,hub, etc) with help during monsoons?
In general, does it make sense to apply wax to a bicycle?