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Originally Posted by mi2n I do agree that it would be unfair to judge the entire Ladakhi population based on the misdeeds of a few, however, it seems, that the miscreants are enjoying full local support who are joining the wrong side by posting on social media with a nasty attitude towards " Indian" tourists and even making subtle threats. Needless to say, foreign tourists would be gullible and can be extorted rather easily, so the motive seems awfully clear here. |
Well, if the situation is anything like Manali, let me say that the domestic tourists are getting fleeced to much greater degrees and in much greater numbers than the foreigners; As an example, let me say that there are very few foreigners who are willing to pay a few thousand rupees to ride a snow-scooter for a few minutes (as thousands of domestic tourists have been happily doing) at Solang - and there are very few foreigners staying in the higher-end hotels here; And everybody in the industry knows that Israelis, at least, can drive a harder bargain than almost any Indian.
When I was in Leh last June, I did hear various complaints (from local hotel staff, etc) about the shift from foreign to domestic tourism, and not on monetary or completely unreasonable bases (reasons outlined in other posts here). Tourism (/tourists) can be an ugly thing, especially when it arrives in an uncontrolled flood (post-"Three Idiots").
But my wife (we have quite a few "ex-pat" Ladakhi friends here in Manali, actually, so are not naturally biased against them) was just reading of another incident on FB, where an out-of-state taxi carrying two
foreign women out in Nubra Valley was also surrounded with locals carrying sticks, etc - in this case the "mafia" threatened to actually BURN the car if the driver so much as moved an inch. Somehow police got involved and initially provided an escort, but turns out the police were on the locals' side, and abandoned the tourist car to their own fate somewhere along the way. At this point, the driver, fearing for his life/his car, refused to carry them further, and parked it somewhere, I guess, leaving the two ladies to proceed to Leh by Army truck. Now, what sort of story are THEY going to go back and tell in their land(s) of origin? How might these sorts of continuing incidents effect even foreign tourist arrivals and opinions in the coming days? And what does it say to the actual motives of the taxi union? I'm pretty sure that these foreign ladies were not yelling racial slurs.
Seems a Ladakhi organization like the LBA, with all its influence, ought to be able to see the huge potential losses, and come out with a (religiously-sanctioned) statement against these sorts of violence. Trouble is that on occasion they themselves have reportedly threatened to burn things down that they didn't like (I say "reportedly" so as to deflect any further inquiries). So I'm not holding my breath there.
Ladakh has an ancient and rich history - for centuries many, many people of different lands passed through it and traded there. And locals had a long history of getting rich off that trade - off the tariffs and levies and duties paid by those passing through. I can't help but wonder if the current attitude is simply an extension of that ancient mindset. Trouble is that Ladakh was an independent "nation" then, able to control its own environment and make all its own rules - and now it's not really. Perhaps that's part of the frustration.
Ultimately, there has been wrong, broadly, on both the side of careless tourists and of a highly protectionist union. Ladakhis can say all they like about the degradations caused by tourism - much of it true of course. But where are their own priorities? If "we" (tourists) are able to boycott Ladakh, then obviously "they" are also able to boycott their own tourism industry, if they really feel it's doing them more harm than good. Close (or limit operations of) their hotels / guesthouses / shops / restaurants. Stop driving taxis. Obviously tourists will not come in large numbers if there are fewer services / facilities available.
But who among them has done that??? Who among them - even among the very rich - is willing to part with the money? Let's see if even a few would be willing to take that step.
Can't help but conclude that it really is the responsibility of government to control both sides of it. Levy extremely heavy, zero-tolerance fines for littering or rash driving or whatever else is being legitimately complained about, so that the Ladakhis feel their concerns are being taken seriously. And without fail, put people in jail who threaten others' lives / well-being, so that the rest of India can again feel safe traveling there.
Thanks,
-Eric