[RSR]

Originally Posted by createrkid

Other suggestions are more than welcome.

I suspect it could be an issue with either the Idle Air Control Actuator/Valve (it could be clogged) or the Throttle Position Sensor.

Please get your engine oil & oil filter changed if it's long overdue (even if it's not related to this issue), as it may harm the engine otherwise.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by createrkid

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will try them over the weekend and update the thread if anything has changed. Other suggestions are more than welcome

Nope, check engine light is off as it should be

Please get the engine oil, air filter, fuel filter and oil filter changed.

Originally Posted by RSR

I suspect it could be an issue with either the Idle Air Control Actuator/Valve (it could be clogged) or the Throttle Position Sensor.

Please get your engine oil & oil filter changed if it's long overdue (even if it's not related to this issue), as it may harm the engine otherwise.

I agree but I have doubts that OP says the acceleration is normal only suspicion is braking being more from the engine side so if the throttle position sensor is faulty, acceleration should be affected. Right?

[Rahul Bhalgat]

Originally Posted by createrkid

Hyundai Getz gls (petrol - 2005)

So I was driving and I noticed that the engine seems to be braking a lot these days. The car has no issues with accelerator input. It still seems very punchy. Noticed an evident decrease in speed in third gear when I let go off the accelerator . I don't think that brakes are the problem because acceleration is quite the same as before. Can anyone point out to me what's wrong with my car? Also, I haven't changed the engine oil in quite some time, could this be the issue?

Agree with what most of the fellow BHPians advised. Check the tyre pressure, condition of the lub oil and condition of the wheel bearings. If any of these are responsible, you will also see drop in the fuel efficiency.

If the throttle calibration has been affected, I expect to see higher idling rpm. This will reduce your fuel efficiency more in the city than on the highway.

[RSR]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

I agree but I have doubts that OP says the acceleration is normal only suspicion is braking being more from the engine side so if the throttle position sensor is faulty, acceleration should be affected. Right?

Just to clarify, I mentioned those two in addition to / after ruling out other possible causes mentioned by fellow BHPians (in the absence of an error code). Then I would get the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve/Actuator checked and cleaned if necessary. Only then would I suspect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). A vacuum leak could be another possible cause.

It's indeed true that a classic symptom of a faulty TPS is acceleration getting affected in some way. It's rarer for a faulty TPS to cause unwanted engine braking, but it can do so, especially in a vehicle with a conventional accelerator cable like the Getz.

[nirupesh]

- Hyundai Verna 2014 AT Petrol
- Single ownership serviced regularly, about 40k on the odo.
- Driving style - very easy on the accelerator pedal, no rush, safe driver too!

A few months ago, I smelled something burning through the AC on a hot afternoon drive. I was passing through construction and assumed it must be the tar-road-laying-work, so continued on. After a few minutes, I became suspicious and rolled the windows down to see no construction anywhere in the vicinity while the smell continued through the AC. The "check engine" light came on, and I realized something was wrong.

I called my Hyundai mech, who recommended to check water levels and coolant levels, stop the car for a while, and drive back after the engine cools down. It was a hot day, I was on a highway with just about 10Kms from home, so I stopped for about 20 mins, and then drove back home (while the 'check-engine' light was still on, and the car started making knocking sounds"). I somehow reached home and stopped the car, never to start again.

The mechanic came home, drove the car back to the garage and noticed that a 'fuse' had blown which stopped the fan from working, which-in turn lead to the whole engine heating fiasco. Unaware, I had driven about 10Kms with the engine hot. I was given the bad news, it appeared that the engine had to be taken off and checked for damages and bends (due to the heating issue).

The entire fan setup was replaced (about 7,000inr if memory served me right). Engine was found to have bent on the cylinder head surface, the bends were removed, cylinder head gaskets replaced, and the engine put back together in top-shape (at least as per the mechanic).

All this work was done at a third-party 3M multi-brand service center - they came highly recommended by a trusted contact, and I had been happy with their experience in the past for general servicing.

Two weeks passed and trouble started -

From time to time (especially after the engine temperature rises to normal operating levels - which is just below 50% on the indicator), the engine appears to be "coughing". I don't know how else to explain this issue: it feels as if the engine chokes for a second and can't shift gears up (or down sometimes). the issue DOES NOT happen when the engine temperature is low, which means I have to drive around the city for a little bit for me to start observing the issue. The issue is also eggagerated during gearshifts, I can tell - when I engage R during parking, the engine chokes before the car starts to move.

The best way to explain this (with all due respect) is how a new driver would handle the clutch in a manual-transmission car. Not smooth, with jerks.

However, if I am on a highway cruising on top-gear anywhere between 80km-100km, I see no issues at all. The problem is only observable in bumper-tobumper city driving (when I assume gearshifts happen more than they do on the highway).

So, after two weeks I start worrying and take the car to Hyundai. The Hyundai mechanic used the car for almost a day and called back to say that he doesn't see anything unusual at all. Well, I've owned the car for years and I know when something is different so I push him - he replaced the spark plug and sends the car back.

Two days, and problem starts again.

I take it back to him and this time he pulls out the 4 ignition coils from his demo-car and plugs them into mine. I've been driving around the car for a week now. And I still see the problem.

(I suspected fuel injection, but the Hyundai mechanic checked all fuel injectors and has cleared them of any issues).

What could be causing the problem? Is it the gearbox? It is something to do with the engine?

[CaptainBrijesh]

Hello BHPians,

When you face the situation in which engine seems to be running differently and steering also feels bit heavier, please try to check vehicle speed sensor.

What this sensor does is, it takes data of the speed of vehicle and send it to the ECU. If it is faulty or on its way out then it will report different speed to ECU & ECU will adjust other things like all engine operating parameters & steering assist based on the false speed. Sometimes this faulty speed sensor makes the ECU go crazy.

So please rule out the possibility of Faulty speed sensor before jumping on the wagon of Parts replacement which will end nowhere and costs you a tons of money.

Hope it helps!
Thanks.

[mvadg]

Originally Posted by nirupesh

- Hyundai Verna 2014 AT Petrol
- Single ownership serviced regularly, about 40k on the odo.
- Driving style - very easy on the accelerator pedal, no rush, safe driver too!

..
What could be causing the problem? Is it the gearbox? It is something to do with the engine?

Could this have destroyed your ATF? The radiator also cools the transmission fluid, I wonder if error codes were checked for ATF overheating. In any case, better get your ATF replaced. I would look at the color and the odor of the ATF first.

[nirupesh]

Originally Posted by mvadg

Could this have destroyed your ATF? The radiator also cools the transmission fluid, I wonder if error codes were checked for ATF overheating. In any case, better get your ATF replaced. I would look at the color and the odor of the ATF first.

Believe it or not, my Bosch mechanic suggested I change the ATF entirely (apparently the Verna AT capacity is 7 liters). But the Hyundai mechanic doesn't think that the ATF is the problem. Hyundai did run diagnostics and reported no errors at all. I guess I'll start by replacing the ATF.

Assuming ATF is the problem here, would it have damaged anything else in the AT box?

[nirupesh]

Originally Posted by nirupesh

Believe it or not, my Bosch mechanic suggested I change the ATF entirely (apparently the Verna AT capacity is 7 liters). But the Hyundai mechanic doesn't think that the ATF is the problem. Hyundai did run diagnostics and reported no errors at all. I guess I'll start by replacing the ATF.

Assuming ATF is the problem here, would it have damaged anything else in the AT box?

UPDATE. Took us a year to get to this point but between the lockdown and very few runs in the car, this problem was completely ignored last year. Start of the year, I forced my Hyundai SA to flush the ATF tank, including any leftover ATF in the fuel injector and refill (almost 7 litres of) new ATF. The old ATF in the car had heated up, turned almost black. Right after the old ATF was flushed out and changed with the new ATF, the "coughing" problem has now disappeared! So no more chugging or coughing for upshifts! Peace restored in middle earth! Cheers and have a great 2021!

[karthikbhat8923]

Hello!

I recently purchased 2014 Honda Accord LX (2.4 I4 CVT) in Seattle, WA.
It is a single owner, no accident vehicle with good service history. It has run 50,500 miles.

I purchased the car at an Audi dealer and it had passed a 125 point inspection too.

I have driven around 800 miles after purchasing it. Recently, from the past 3-4 days I feel that there is some kind of a slight drag while driving it in 'D' or 'S' mode, both with or without the 'ECO' mode on.

The tires seem to have good pressure. No warning light on the dash is on.


The car somehow feels a little heavy with some drag driving. But it hasn't given me any issues till now.

Should I be worried about this in any way?

[abhishek46]

Can you describe this drag a bit better?

Is this 'drag' felt during coasting in N?

You may want to check your brakes, the wheels should be free.

[karthikbhat8923]

No. I feel the vehicle if free and without drag in 'N'. So, mostly nothing to do with the brakes.

Also, in N while parked, the engine feels smooth when revved.

[karthikbhat8923]

There is no drag while coasting in 'N'. So might not be any issue with the brakes.

Also, the engine feels smooth when revved with the parking brake engaged in 'N'.