[haridsv]

Originally Posted by SH1N1G4MI

Don' know if this was posted here before but I'll just leave this here since it seems relevant:Attachment 1955180
A warning from the dashboard of a Mahindra Maxitruck

The second line is not readable in the picture.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by SH1N1G4MI

A warning from the dashboard of a Mahindra Maxitruck

Originally Posted by haridsv

The second line is not readable in the picture.

It reads:

"Turbocharged Engine: Run at idle speed for a minute after starting and before stopping."

[PGA]

The user manual of my Farmtrac 60 tractor says

While using the tractor after long time: Pull stop control lever and crank the engine 3-4 times and then release the knob to start the engine normally. This exercise is done to fully lubricate the turbocharger

I think its a good idea to be followed for cars as well. However treat it as a case of abundant precaution as the oil pressure in the critical areas does build up quite fast, due to some oil being retained/sealed in the critical oil galleries of the engine.

[Sutripta]

^^^
Modern cars don't have pull to stop levers.

Regards
Sutripta

[PGA]

Originally Posted by Sutripta

^^^
Modern cars don't have pull to stop levers.

Perhaps I have been sitting too long on my tractor to overlook a simple fact that it's not elementary to crank a modern car without firing its engine.

Apologies

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by PGA

Perhaps I have been sitting too long on my tractor

It would be great if you could start a thread on tractors, something which the regular forum member knows very little about. eg. Most people here would think 'dual clutch' on a tractor would mean a DSG gearbox!

Regards
Sutripta

[pareekvirendra]

Hello,

I have an issue that is probably related to this thread. In case i am in the wrong thread, request the MODs to kindly relocate my post to the correct thread.

I have a Toyota Corolla Altis diesel 2011 model. Of late, when the car is crossing 2000 rpm, it will vibrate for 2-3 seconds. The vibration happens in all gears, however it is more observable in the 4th, 5th and 6th gears. The vibration only lasts 2-3 seconds and occurs between rpm 1900 and 2100. There are no vibrations beyond this range.

The engine mountings were found to be ok on inspection. Can anyone please advise what could be wrong here? Any help will be appreciated. Thank you.

[ChoosetoCruze]

Originally Posted by pareekvirendra

The vibration happens in all gears, however it is more observable in the 4th, 5th and 6th gears. The vibration only lasts 2-3 seconds and occurs between rpm 1900 and 2100. There are no vibrations beyond this range.

The engine mountings were found to be ok on inspection. Can anyone please advise what could be wrong here?

You’ll have to be a little more specific, does the vibration sound like a metallic noise or from a plastic part? Does the engine sound change with the vibration? What’s the car’s mileage? Is it still running on the original clutch? Has it been serviced regularly following the service manual?

[pareekvirendra]

Originally Posted by ChoosetoCruze

You’ll have to be a little more specific, does the vibration sound like a metallic noise or from a plastic part? Does the engine sound change with the vibration? What’s the car’s mileage? Is it still running on the original clutch? Has it been serviced regularly following the service manual?

Hello,

The car has done 130000 kilometres and is still on its original clutch. The car has been regularly serviced at a Toyota authorised showroom. The vibration is like the whole car shakes when it is crossing 2000 rpm. It is only for 2-3 seconds while the needle is going over 2000 rpm, not before and not after. Apart from this, the car runs completely normal and vibration free. Even the showroom guys are confused about this and they have had my car for three days now.

[Rahul Bhalgat]

Originally Posted by pareekvirendra

I have a Toyota Corolla Altis diesel 2011 model. Of late, when the car is crossing 2000 rpm, it will vibrate for 2-3 seconds. The vibration happens in all gears, however it is more observable in the 4th, 5th and 6th gears. The vibration only lasts 2-3 seconds and occurs between rpm 1900 and 2100. There are no vibrations beyond this range.

The engine mountings were found to be ok on inspection.

Do you observe this vibration with the car standstill at Neutral? Do you observe this vibration with the car standstill in gear with clutch pedal fully pressed? Or do you get this only with gear engaged and car in motion?

[ChoosetoCruze]

Originally Posted by pareekvirendra

The car has done 130000 kilometres and is still on its original clutch. The vibration is like the whole car shakes when it is crossing 2000 rpm. It is only for 2-3 seconds while the needle is going over 2000 rpm, not before and not after. Apart from this, the car runs completely normal and vibration free.

Originally Posted by Rahul Bhalgat

Do you observe this vibration with the car standstill at Neutral? Do you observe this vibration with the car standstill in gear with clutch pedal fully pressed? Or do you get this only with gear engaged and car in motion?

Excellent follow up questions from the above member!

Also, outstanding driving habits to be running on the factory clutch for 130,000kms!

Thanks for the car’s history as that makes me suspect it’s something to do with the clutch/flywheel/it may even be the harmonic balancer of the engine. Is the service centre 100% confident it isn’t the engine mounts?

To check the clutch/flywheel, you’ll be looking at big labour expenses, so if I were you, I’d get them to eliminate all the other possible reasons first.

In the event you do open up the transmission, my advice would be to get the whole clutch assembly & it’s related parts replaced (don’t forget to skim/replace the flywheel) so that you don’t spend on labour charges again in future.

[pareekvirendra]

Originally Posted by Rahul Bhalgat

Do you observe this vibration with the car standstill at Neutral? Do you observe this vibration with the car standstill in gear with clutch pedal fully pressed? Or do you get this only with gear engaged and car in motion?

I am not exactly sure about it. I have never revved the car beyond 2000 rpm at standstill. I get this while the car is in motion, and usually when this happens, the clutch pedal is not at all pressed, just the accelerator is pressed. I am going to the showroom today and get this checked out too, whether it happens at stand still as well.

Originally Posted by ChoosetoCruze

Excellent follow up questions from the above member!

Also, outstanding driving habits to be running on the factory clutch for 130,000kms!

Thanks for the car’s history as that makes me suspect it’s something to do with the clutch/flywheel/it may even be the harmonic balancer of the engine. Is the service centre 100% confident it isn’t the engine mounts?

To check the clutch/flywheel, you’ll be looking at big labour expenses, so if I were you, I’d get them to eliminate all the other possible reasons first.

Thank you for your compliment, however, I bought this car pre-owned at about 97000 kilometres, so a major share of this compliment goes to the previous owner, who maintained the car in great condition.

I am however going to the showroom today and will ask them to look at the parts you mentioned, although to be honest I hope its not one of these as I really don't want to spend too much right now. However, this thing is irritating me, so I do need to get this cleared. Lets see how it turns out. I will keep you updated on this thread.

Thank you all for replying so promptly.

[ChoosetoCruze]

Originally Posted by pareekvirendra

I am however going to the showroom today and will ask them to look at the parts you mentioned, although to be honest I hope its not one of these as I really don't want to spend too much right now. However, this thing is irritating me, so I do need to get this cleared.

If you don’t want to pay the ASC big $$$ for labour charges, look around for a honest FNG who has good reviews from your acquaintances.

They may well have better diagnostic skills than the ASC who may only be used to replacing parts.

Also, if it IS indeed the clutch which is at fault, you can use a good quality aftermarket clutch kit. It doesn’t need to be an OEM Toyota clutch. Stick to OEM Toyota parts only for things like electronic sensors & pumps. For parts such as the clutch, brake pads, rotors, air filter, etc a good/reputed aftermarket brand will work just as well.

If you ONLY want to stick to OEM Toyota parts, that’s fine too, it will still be cheaper getting it replaced at a FNG using them rather than at the dealer/ASC.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Rahul Bhalgat

Do you observe this vibration with the car standstill at Neutral? Do you observe this vibration with the car standstill in gear with clutch pedal fully pressed? Or do you get this only with gear engaged and car in motion?

Good test. Just rev it up with and without clutch pedal fully pressed.

I would not rule out it being a relative simple thing, rather than clutches. Your car has done a good mileage and that means there is going to be some wear on all the various components. Sometimes that might cause a rattle or a shake here and there. But it could be as simple as something such as engine mounts. Sometimes they can appear quite good. But as they age, the might deform just a bit, sometimes just enough to cause vibrations. Really, doing only a visual inspection on engine mounts is not enough. You really need to measure them compared to original ones.

Hopefully you will be able to replicate the vibration with the car at standstill and revving the engine, and working the clutch.

But I would not start opening up the engine/transmission/clutch until I was convinced the engine mounts were ok. Take that measurement! It is very simple and won’t take any time at all. When diagnosing problems always take a logical approach, but also try elimimate all things that can be easily and quickly properly checked.

Good luck

Jeroen

[iamitp]

Hello everyone, going by the previous discussions on this thread I came to the conclusion that unless your owner manual states otherwise, it is better to start the engine and drive off (not aggressively).

Many modern cars (such as my Creta 2020 1.4 DCT) come with telematics intended for pre-conditioning the car. I often start the car remotely and let it idle for 5-10 mins in order to achieve a comfortable ambient temperature and air quality (I live in Delhi).

Am I sacrificing the health of my car with this practice?

I am also a bit confused by what my owner manual says. On one page, it says the following




But then on the next page, it seems to suggest the exact opposite



Am I missing something here?