[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Anriban - great job done on the propeller shaft with correct "lessons learnt" as we say in corporate jargon! . Also do as follows:

1. Take a 13mm size ring spanner, go below the car and tighten all eight final drive attaching bolts to the rear axle banjo tube. You'll be surprised at how much the vibration will reduce. I missed telling you when we met, sorry for that!
2. Please look at the transmission mounting cross member very carefully. It is attached to the body by 2 nos M8*1.25 size nuts. If these are regular nuts, please remove them and use 2 nos 8.8 grade nyloc nuts at this location with plain washer but without spring washer. The torque is 2.5 kgm. These nuts loosen and the transmission cross member is known to crack at this location. Therefore, in 1989, cross member with flange extended all round was introduced with rectangular reinforcement plates above the cross member. Please post your car photograph taken at this location, I will tell you whether you need to replace the cross member or not. Old design will not work. I had only tested the car during the certification phase so I know! .
3. Please cross-check the transverse rod mounting bracket on the body very carefully, as I had explained. Change the transverse rod as soon as you can find one.
4. Are you getting healthy quantity of fuel return from both lines? If yes, it is OK, if no, you will get percolation on Khandala ghat, please physically check once by opening each line.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Anriban - great job done on the propeller shaft with correct "lessons learnt" as we say in corporate jargon! . Also do as follows:

Thanks sir !

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

1. Take a 13mm size ring spanner, go below the car and tighten all eight final drive attaching bolts to the rear axle banjo tube. You'll be surprised at how much the vibration will reduce. I missed telling you when we met, sorry for that!
2. Please look at the transmission mounting cross member very carefully. It is attached to the body by 2 nos M8*1.25 size nuts. If these are regular nuts, please remove them and use 2 nos 8.8 grade nyloc nuts at this location with plain washer but without spring washer. The torque is 2.5 kgm. These nuts loosen and the transmission cross member is known to crack at this location. Therefore, in 1989, cross member with flange extended all round was introduced with rectangular reinforcement plates above the cross member. Please post your car photograph taken at this location, I will tell you whether you need to replace the cross member or not. Old design will not work. I had only tested the car during the certification phase so I know! .

Will do sir.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

3. Please cross-check the transverse rod mounting bracket on the body very carefully, as I had explained. Change the transverse rod as soon as you can find one.ven

The panhard rod has already been changed during Jan.


The mounting bracket seems OK.
Shall post pictures later.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

4. Are you getting healthy quantity of fuel return from both lines? If yes, it is OK, if no, you will get percolation on Khandala ghat, please physically check once by opening each line.

Am yet to check this sir. I haven't encountered any fuel starvation/percolation problems yet despite driving through bumper to bumper traffic which had caused the temperature needle to touch the halfway mark.

Updates as of 14-Feb -
While investigating the rattle from the front door, we discovered that the lower hinge was broken. And the broken section is riveted to the door itself.

Looks like we will need a replacement door even though there is nothing wrong with the door itself. Just for a damaged hinge !!!

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Anirban - first of all, sorry for not replying earlier due to completely busy in work! Get yourself a door from a scrapped car and fit it, that way all the parts including the rivets will be original. Local repair will not work properly.

By the way, I can see that you are in the "thick of things", one PP and one 118NE is more than enough. Be careful on the "western front" (you know what I mean), otherwise you'll land up like me one of these days! .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Be careful on the "western front" (you know what I mean), otherwise you'll land up like me one of these days! .
Behram Dhabhar

Sir,
Things are actually looking up on the western front !!
But point taken, enough cars & bikes for now.

[bikertillidie]

Requesting suggestions from team-bhp members ...

Where can I source a replacement front door for my NE in Mumbai?

Should I visit Sion Koliwada or Kurla / CST Road scrap market?

Any contacts?

An early reply would be greatly appreciated.

[bikertillidie]

Finally :-) Thanks to BD sir...

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Anriban - great job done on the propeller shaft with correct "lessons learnt" as we say in corporate jargon! . Also do as follows:

1. Take a 13mm size ring spanner, go below the car and tighten all eight final drive attaching bolts to the rear axle banjo tube. You'll be surprised at how much the vibration will reduce. I missed telling you when we met, sorry for that!
2. Please look at the transmission mounting cross member very carefully. It is attached to the body by 2 nos M8*1.25 size nuts. If these are regular nuts, please remove them and use 2 nos 8.8 grade nyloc nuts at this location with plain washer but without spring washer. The torque is 2.5 kgm. These nuts loosen and the transmission cross member is known to crack at this location. Therefore, in 1989, cross member with flange extended all round was introduced with rectangular reinforcement plates above the cross member. Please post your car photograph taken at this location, I will tell you whether you need to replace the cross member or not. Old design will not work. I had only tested the car during the certification phase so I know! .

Have fitted nyloc nuts per your suggestion. Here is a photo taken earlier today.
The eight nuts attached to the axle banjo tube are absolutely tight.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by bikertillidie

Have fitted nyloc nuts per your suggestion. Here is a photo taken earlier today. The eight nuts attached to the axle banjo tube are absolutely tight.

Dear Anirban - door looks good, did you get it from my source? The transmission mounting cross member is correct, the flange is alround, so it is OK. Although you have fitted nyloc nuts so they will not loosen, as a measure of abundant caution, please fit the regular nuts on the nyloc nuts just to be doubly sure.

Additional information - even after all this, please inspect this joint at least once every 8000 kms. This distance is derived out of the NISSAN severity ratio testing that was carried out in 1984 to 1986. The car was MZM7250. The route was Kurla - Santacruz - Mandvi - Ambadi - Wada - Ambadi - Mandvi - Santacruz - Kurla. The total distance was 252 kms / shift, running 2 shifts daily. The total time allowed was 360 minutes / shift. The severity ratio of this test was 6. This is only one of the tests which we did with guidance from NISSAN. Others tests were much more severe than this one, with severity ratio of 40, pure torture! That car was MZM7247.

I learnt a lot from NISSAN, which I still use, everyday. My mentor was Mr.Yoshikazu Shirahishi, the Chief Vehicle Evaluation Engineer of Nissan Motor Company Limited, Minato Ku, Tokyo, Japan. I am indeed fortunate that I was his student. .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[bikertillidie]

Sir, Mr. Ansari was unavailable. I found it at an adjacent store (number 24) owned by Mr. Abdul Rehman.

[bikertillidie]

Updates as of 22-Feb -

Got the car back from Javed yesterday. The door has been replaced & painted.
Some black sticker was applied to ensure it did not appear out of place.

The car was thoroughly cleaned up (i.e. washed with shampoo, innards/nooks & crannies were cleaned up using kerosene and an used tooth brush).

Later, after ensuring that the tank was filled up with petrol, drove to Saswad & back.

Here are a few pics before & after the drive.

[bikertillidie]

Carburettor overhaul in progress. Purchased two mikcarb overhaul kits for the maruti zen yesterday and got started.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Anirban - remove the LPG dispenser from the top of the air horn of the carburettor and throw it out, you don't need it. You can use the kit but don't change any jets.

By the way, I just completed the "super-cleaning" of a true blue genuine Solex carburettor with each and every part original, including the original throttle plate. It took me 3 weeks to do it but its done. I guess this is the advantage of having no family in Pune! HaHaHa!

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Anirban - remove the LPG dispenser from the top of the air horn of the carburettor and throw it out, you don't need it. You can use the kit but don't change any jets.
Behram Dhabhar

Sure, the jets will remain as is -

Primary Main Jet - 92.5
Secondary Main Jet - 152.5
Primary Pilot Jet - 4?.? (can't decipher the last two digits)
Secondary Pilot Jet - 59.7

The carburettor has been fitted to the car. Will tune it on Saturday after checking for leaks, adequate fuel return etc.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

[b][u]
By the way, I just completed the "super-cleaning" of a true blue genuine Solex carburettor with each and every part original, including the original throttle plate. It took me 3 weeks to do it but its done. I guess this is the advantage of having no family in Pune! HaHaHa!

Behram Dhabhar

Would love to view the final result.

Changing/cleaning jets on a Solex is a breeze compared to Mikuni (or derivatives).

In fact, overhauling a Mikuni can be a real pain (as I have learnt the hard way)

Mine was missing a linkage for the choke and I finally managed to source one from a scrapped carburettor (courtesy Javed).

Attaching a picture showing the missing linkage.

[bikertillidie]

A few more pics from yesterday -

Carburettor, tools (and my pet labrador) strewn all over the living room. One of the dashpots had a ruptured diaphragm and had to be replaced.
The anti-dieseling solenoid seems ok.

A mess left by rats. Apparently, they were living next to the wiper motor.

[bikertillidie]

A few pics after installing the carburettor.

The primary pilot jet seems to have some kind of obstruction. As a result, the engine is dying at low rpms.

Removal of this jet with the carburettor mounted on the inlet manifold requires a contortionist