Team-BHP - 1st Gen Honda City Owners - Problems Areas, Fuel Efficiency and more

Quote:

Originally Posted by raycers_honda (Post 2789851)

One of the wierd problems i am facing occassionally,whether winter,summers or rainy season.This is what happens.I start the car.Drive for say around 16kms with the ac on.The ac switch is on level 1 or sometimes level 2.The circulation Switch or slider is off/closed.
Then sometimes for some reasons for eg.Nakabandhi,or if there are cops i switch ac off..by pressing the main ac button and then turning of the fan switch to the off level.
This all done while the car is still in motion.And immediately after maybe 3minutes i switch the ac back on and then the increase the fan switch lvl to 2.
Now what happens is there are white smoke,fog,vapours that come out from the vents.
Does not smell like burning smell.I don't cough.it doesn't affect my throat.
It just comes for a few seconds and then goes.
I wonder what it is.Does not happen everytime.Happens once in a blue moon.Normally in the mornings at around 10:15am or afternoons.My speeds when that happens is approximately 45kph.
Does any one face a similar problem.Inputs would be highly appreciated.

What a long description.. Even my civic faces this sometimes. Its not a problem. its just condensation. So chill and drive on. BTW 476 on 38Liters sounds pretty unusual.

I'm posting my query in this thread as I feel this is the closest. Please guide if it's not!

I have a 1999 OHC 13.Exi (MT). It has done 135k. A bit of modifications done long time back - FFE, all four suspension raised by ~1 inch (pads).

I'm facing the following issues of late, request suggestions / opinions / expert advice:

1) Car jerks at low RPM (between 500 - 800). Jerking is higher with AC on.
2) Engine stops sometimes, especially when i put the car into motion after a red light turns green (traffic signal)
3) Idling in the morning shows 1000+, but after a few kms of run, it shows <500
4) I used to get ~12.5 kmpl till 6 months back (w/o AC), I'm now getting ~10 kmpl (city driving)
5) My mechanic is suggesting O2 sensor change as he has already checked timing, throttle body cleanup etc. However, the yellow light is not on!
6) I've, so far, not touched Engine (no revamp)
7) Around a year back, I met with an accident - it was a frontal crash (no ones injured). I had to change a few things under the hood and the hood itself and the Engine head cover (only the cover). I don't know if it has anything to do with the jerking and low FE. Just mentioned here for better advises.

I'm particularly looking at 'No Jerk' and improvement in fuel efficiency (at least to my earlier best :Frustrati)!

Please help...

Fuel filter change.

Injector cleaning on a proper machine, not by hand.

Do both at the same time and post this check the new reading on the injectors (which you can get only when cleaning is done on a proper machine)

If it still gives you issues have the timing checked again from another guy who you know is good for sure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CheersHonda (Post 2792087)

Thanks, will surely check these two on this Friday and post back on the results. In the meantime, any other input/advice is most welcome (do I need to check engine mounting for jerking? etc etc)

Quote:

Originally Posted by KSM-Vtec (Post 2792139)

Quote:

Originally Posted by KSM-Vtec (Post 2749048)

Issue 2 is due to the fuel gauge floater in the fuel tank has not been installed correctly. There is a link rod which would have got bent. Need to correct the angle of that rod holding the floater.

I have the exact same problem, I filled up fuel worth 2000 bucks last week and it shows only quarter tank of fuel, which is just not possible even under the assumption that the tank was bone dry (which it was not). So is it certain that the problem isn't electrical ? If its just a matter of correcting the angle, how much should be the cost involved, also is it a simple DIY that I can do ?

Sorry for the barrage of questions.

Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJK (Post 2792359)

Did you also get your tank cleaned? I dont think it should be an electrical issue.

What happens if you do a full tank? Where is the indicator then?

Its not DIY for sure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KSM-Vtec (Post 2792383)

Did you also get your tank cleaned? I dont think it should be an electrical issue.

What happens if you do a full tank? Where is the indicator then?

Its not DIY for sure.

Umm no, haven't had the tank cleaned yet. For the past few times that i've had the tank full, it goes up all the way to "F" but with around 28-30 liters of fuel, the indicator does not appear to move. :Frustrati

One thing thats missing in the OHC is a cup/bottle holder.sometimes if u feel like jumping out and getting a chilled coke or even if your at one of those roadside stalls and order a drink its difficult to place the glass.Theres place on the dash but then some glasses are taller.
The only solution i have come up with is to keep the bottle between the door and the seat.When u have many occupants in the car it works.only problem is when you open the door it falls out.
Any one have any ideas/suggestions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by toiingg (Post 2794626)

Guys, I need to get my Dampers / Shocks replaced. Suggestions ? Read somewhere about Gas Filled shocks that are available for the OHC, any leads ?

i, a couple of months ago, got the suspension overhauled for my OHC and changed to gas filled struts and it made significant difference to handling and ride quality.

options you have for struts:
Munjal Showas - very very difficult to find. also, only strut is not available - one has to buy full kit. fluid charged.
Gabriel - Honda OE replacement - fluid charged.
TRW - Honda OE replacement - gas charged.

Quote:

Originally Posted by infotech58 (Post 2794704)

Please share the cost of the gas filled struts.

How did they make a significant difference? Less roll and stiffer are they?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ankitahuja (Post 2794831)

Please share the cost of the gas filled struts.

How did they make a significant difference? Less roll and stiffer are they?

ride is stiffer, and has much less(er) body roll. car does not rattle (at all) going over rough roads (which are everywhere in mumbai), and does not bottom out on speed barkers. i feel if i add strut braces and some more such measures, it could vastly improve cornering ability too.

if i remember the price correctly, it was 4250 for the front pair and 4950 for rear pair - bought it from Shetty Motors. prices as on Oct/Nov. 2011.