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-   -   Skoda Laura: Problems & solutions thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/47047-skoda-laura-problems-solutions-thread-36.html)

Theres apparently a setting which the guys from the workshop can change, or maybe you can from VCDS. The setting makes the mirrors heat only when the ambient temperature is under 20 degrees, or something similar.

Is it not possible to use the heating to defog the mirrors? Can be very useful during the rains.

It takes sometime to get heated. You'll have to check by blowing air and then check how long it takes to clear the mirrors and then put the knob in heat position and again repeat. This time it should go away quickly, also you cannot check it by touching the mirrors if they are heated or not.

I agree. Will try messing around with the settings when I borrow a VCDS cable from a friend. I'll update my findings over here.

Any help in this matter would be appreciated. I tried two different spare parts shops for the tail light bulbs. The ones I got were significantly dimmer than the original ones and they don't look as good. Please guide me, where can I buy bulbs similar to original quality?

Could you check this out?

Contact the vagtune.in guy, Sugesh Chandran. I am sure he can help you out. All led's need to be CANBUS error free for the laura else it will give errors in the instrument cluster. There are other measures to make it error free like using resistors etc but these are cumbersome and you risk damaging the BCM. So, better to get the pricier error free LED's.

PM for contact details in case you are not able to get any response.

Hi All,

Thank you for all of your valuable inputs to this thread for so long. I have been following this very closely for some time now.

I have a 2006 Laura L&K PD which has run approximately 94000 kms. Recently I noticed the clutch becoming hard and went for a clutch change with an independent garage. Upon inspection, the culprit was found to be the pressure plate. They have changed the clutch set (minus flywheel as they found it to be completely OK) and the clutch is back to normal again.

One day after taking the car back and driving around, I notice excessive vibrations during idling and slightly lesser vibrations during acceleration. I also noticed that the acceleration has reduced compared to earlier. Once I got home, I opened to see that the whole engine is heavily vibrating during idle. I immediately called up the garage who promptly sent people to my place to check it. (It was 10 P.M. already and they were almost 20km away)

They checked all the connections, battery etc. and found all of them to be OK. Then they told me that the car was parked with the bonnet open for almost 3 days, during which there were some heavy showers and suspected it might have effected the ECM :Frustrati Upon further inspection, it was found that one of the pipes from the EGR to air filter (vacuum?) was probably the culprit. If you disconnect it and close the pipe with your finger, the engine settles down to its normal clatter and no vibration. Else, the engine starts vibrating and also misfires. They have adjusted it and asked me to wait till the morning to see if it returns back to normal.

It has not returned back to normal and I am having them take the car back to the garage today. What do you think the possible culprit is? please:

Hi All,
Now that my car's done the 2 yrs of warranty, am keen to get a few minor modifications. So was at Autozone Gurgaon, getting my stock "peep-peep" horns replaced with a Roots Windtone.

While there, an interesting thing that I saw available at the accessory store was an LED equivalent of a PY21W bulb. PY21W is the bulb used as DRL in OEM. The interesting bit is that the bulb has a lens in front (as a part of the whole PY21W LED unit). I looked it up in Google and came across eBay selling it too (link for the same LED bulb with amber color output is http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canbus-Error...-/280709475309.

Am quite excited with the LED option as a DRL bulb replacement. Would appreciate thoughts and comments on viability of using such an LED replacement for the DRL bulb. The light seems nice and bright for this LED bulb. However, apprehensive about couple of things:

(a) Do these bulbs throw a "blown bulb" warning indicator on the instrument cluster? Also, given how a Canbus works, will a higher wattage LED replacement (as against standard wattage of stock bulb) allow for elimination of bulb warning?

(b) Given that the wattage rating is slightly higher, is there a chance that the DRL lighting case can get over-heated?

(c) Has anyone had any experience with using these LEDs as DRL replacements? If yes, any suggestions on the make/dealer would be great.

Also - is there anyone in the Gurgaon circuit with a Vag/VCDS and willing to help me with a few mods like enabling the cornering lights and coming-home lights?

Appreciate all your thoughts.

Warm Regards,
Sanju

Sorry for going OT, but how did they replace the horn, did they cut the wire coming from the car, or did they have the correct connectors that are used to connect to the socket that comes from the car.

As i remember roots windtone does not have the skoda connector, it comes with the two terminals which are to be connected to the cars cable.

You're correct, Jinu_Joseph, Roots Windtone does not come with the Skoda Connectors. They had to cut the wires and use the standard connectors that Roots supplies. This was the reason why I had been waiting for the warranty to get over. The other option is ofcourse to get it done at the authorized service, though I could not convince myself to shell out 6K for something which is almost identical. Hope that helps.

Rgds,
Sanju

Hi Laura Owners. I recently bought a used Laura L&K DSG at Chennai with 72 Kms on the odo. I drive to Coimbatore once a week or every ten days. Within a day of buying it on my first trip to Coimbatore the AC conked and Millenium Motors said the problem was the cooling coil and I had it replaced. Now on my next trip I heard a noise and had it taken to millenium motors again. They tell me the radiator is leaking and needs replacement. The quote is 9 K plus Coolant and Labour. I took it to another mechanic who says since the radiator is aluminum I can have it repaired. However, I am not sure of his capabilities. Is there any other mechanic in Coimbatore capable of servicing a laura. Looking forward to any help

Sathya

Get the diagnostic scan done first. It is very helpful when it comes to the engine related problems. If the garage doesn't have the equipment, get it done at the A.S.S or find another garage that has the equipment.

9K is an OK price to get it done through A.S.S. If the outside garage is getting you OEM part at the lesser price, then it is OK but I wouldnt get it repaired for two reasons: the savings are not significant and the repair job may not be effective. For all you know the radiator is corroded/ready-to-leak at multiple points and you plug one point and another location might start leaking in few days.

Dear Androdev - Thanks for the quick response. Millenium Motors is giving me a wait time of 10 days.

Sathya

9k for a new radiator + coolant and labor seems OK as Androdev said. The radiator in my Hyundai Tucson was replaced when it developed leaks at a couple of spots and it costed around Rs.14000 (including coolant and labor). You can look here for the damaged radiator:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post2257924

How does your radiator look? If you can post a picture?

BTW, when I was getting my Laura serviced, I casually asked for the spare prices and the SA said the radiator is cheaper but the condenser (the one right behind the radiator) is Rs. 27000!!! Can you check that as well so we will know if they are being honest or not.