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You just need to disconnect the brake light switch. It is located just above the brake pedal.

Well, I guess the small mistake I made and the correction I shared earlier should help anyone get this fix right and shouldn't deter them from attempting this DIY:). Also, I wouldn't say the fix was expensive because all I had to pay was for the breakdown recovery service. HASS never did anything with the stopper (bolt I had fixed, in this case) and it stays on as I fixed it.

Thanks for the timely hints. Went with the bolt hack.

Did not touch the brake switch at all, so hopefully clear of the issue rr_zen mentioned.
And finally, here is the thing that broke. I saw it right at the footwell.

Hi folks, just a quick question , is there any place where I can order Honda ATF DW1 Automatic Transmission oil for my 2013 Civic V AT. I'm not really comfortable giving the car to Honda for a drain and fill, especially after reading about a Honda ASC messing up on a fellow Bhpians Honda City Cvt by using the wrong oil. I see the oil on Amazon but it's astronomically priced at 7.3 k for 4 quartz. I checked on boodmo, but the same isn't available . Also correct me if I'm wrong but DW1 is the replacement for the erstwhile Honda ATF Z1 and the former is a synthetic variant of it. No issues mixing the two right ?

Since you are in Mumbai you can try at Shetty motors down south. Give them a call and see. No should be on T-BHP classified.

Thanks Sumeet. I'll check them out. Loved your Civic thread btw. Followed it for years till the end.:thumbs up

:OT Not Civic-related, but I found a fragment of the object pictured above in my Brio's footwell. What I found is just the top part, not the circular base. I thought it was someone's tooth at first!
What is this object? Something connected to the brake lights?
Because my brake lights seem to be working fine.

Yes, it's the stopper for the brake switch. Please refer this video

I had the transmission oil in my Accord changed at the dealership and this is what they used.

Thank you, I checked around and was given to understand that this seems to be the same ATF DW 1 being sold in India under this package and is used for all Honda torque converter automatics. Internationally, it's sold in a greenish grey bottle with a red cap. Also how was the experience post the oil change might I ask, did the shifts become any smoother on your Accord or felt the same? I will be ordering 3 litres of the same and doing a drain and fill at my FNG.

Yes, I can confirm that I was told the same - that this fluid is the Indian equivalent of the DW 1 sold in the US.

I did three drain and fills (D&Fs) since the Accord transmission has around 9-10 litres of fluid and each drain is only around 3.5 litres. My car has done only 20k kms but I changed the fluid anyway since the car is 11 years old. The first drain fluid was not toasted but looked fairly dark.

Shifts became progressively and noticeably smoother after each D&F. Shifts like a dream now.

How far apart were your 3 drain and fills might I ask. Were they done back to back or after driving a few Kms or weeks or months appart? Im aware that it takes atleast two to three drain and fills to empty and fill the slush box in the Civic as well. ( Around 8.1 litres approx).

The D&Fs were all a few weeks apart from each other.

Question for Civic MT owners - How do you deal with the problem of the noisy clutch pedal ? I am referring to the 'trrrk' sound that comes every time the clutch pedal is pressed and released. The issue in my car was identified to be a faulty clutch switch assembly, the purpose of which as I understand is to prevent the engine starter motor from cranking the engine unless the clutch pedal is pressed. However, this feature seems to be non-existent in my car.Fellow BHPians with a MT Civic can confirm their experience. Now, coming back to the orginal issue of the noisy clutch pedal, HASS had changed the clutch switch assy when I had given the car to them for changing the engine mount. The clutch pedal was like butter when I took the car back from HASS after the repairs. However, within a km of driving the issue resurfaced and I was back on square one. I checked on the 8thCivic forum and got to know that the best way to address this issue was to apply white lithium grease to the clutch switch assembly. However, even after applying white lithium grease the issue seems to persist. I know many of us may think that it is one of the clutch cylinders that may be at fault. But, I feel otherwise because:

a) My car has just done close to 40K km till date and is driven only by me.
b) I am an extremely careful driver and not the one to subject it to any rough usage.
c) Functionally, the clutch is working perfectly fine though feels a tad harder when it is noisy.
d) Once in a while, the noise disappears on its own (and the clutch is very soft), only to reappear after a brief while.

During my visit to IGNITE once, Raghav had advised me to remove the clutch switch as it did not serve any purpose but I wasnt sure if that was the right thing. Would like to hear from Civic MT owners on their experience and suggestions.

I have faced the same on my I20 petrol MT. Regardless of the Kms, the clutch master and slave cylnders being rubber parts tend to wear out ( especially if the car is driven less). I own a Civic VAT but have driven enough MT civics to confirm that the clutch needn't be depressed to start the car in all Civics.(Even the automatic Civics of the 8th gen do not require the brake to be depressed while cranking the engine.) It's called a clutch lock mechanism and is there on most cars with a push start button. If your clutch is becoming harder and creaking after the car warms up, it's usually the slave cylinder. As for the sound, it could be the throw out bearing. Its no secret too that civics have weak low end torque and need to revved harder in stop go traffic to get going or half clutched in 2nd gear. So that could also accelerate the premature clutch wear. Hope this helps. Regards

Dear Bhpian's,

I am looking for a good FNG in Hyderabad for my 2008 CIVIC AT. Can any Bhpian's from Hyderabad suggest. I have once checked out this FNG by the name "Man & Machine" at Jubilee Hills and felt he may do a quality work but his prices were super high. For example - For the rubber mount set for the exhaust pipe he quoted 900/- but i got the same in the market for 200/- and 1275/- for a liter of Engine oil which i felt is on a higher side. Other than this I am not aware of any good trustable FNG's and hence reaching out to you all.

Need to get the below sorted:

1. My car's AC is not cooling anymore. I suspect the condenser is gone.
2. There is leak in the power steering pump and I'm managing by topping up the power steering oil every now and then.
3. I would like to completely drain the transmission oil and replace with new. Is synthetic oil advisable or the one recommended by HASS.
4. I also suspect the secondary fan is not working as it should.
5. I also feel there is a need to change the Font tie rods & ball joints as i hear minor thuds on bad roads. This maybe due to tyre noise but i am not sure.

Any suggestions are most appreciated.