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Originally Posted by vijaycool
(Post 2377686)
Looks normal. The 2nd speed kicks in just crossing the half way mark. In your case the needle is still below the half way mark so the 'Jet' lol: didnt start. |
Originally Posted by funkykar
(Post 2377761)
Perfect! Just monitor the temp gauge for a few more days. Once a day check for traces of leakage. I presume you have cleaned all the spillage area already. Possibly, the issue hid itself when the coolant was changed and maxed above the max levels. The Delhi heat might have unearthed it recently |
Originally Posted by architect
(Post 2377860)
Judging that you were driving on a day like today (with temperature around 35-38 in the evening) with no AC, I think the temperature is quite normal. Remember, you were driving in the city, where the poor radiator has to work in very demanding conditions, with practically no cool air to draw from the front. Either you are standing / crawling in the traffic jam, or you are taking in exhaust fumes of other cars. And before you call that "Helicopter" fan a "monster" remember that's what gives this car a fantastic AC for its segment. |
Originally Posted by ch.nathan
(Post 2515687)
The digital CLOCK in my SDX has stopped working all of a sudden 2 days back. I read the manual and checked the fuses 8,15 and 20 - all are fine. Any idea as to what could be the problem? |
Originally Posted by planet_rocker
(Post 2515801)
flash a torch at an angle on the clock display - if you see the digits - clock is fine - just the bulb needs to be replaced. |
Originally Posted by planet_rocker
(Post 2515801)
to replace bulb - slowly pull out the inverted 'U' plastic cover (which houses the head lamp leveler in new palios) - take out the screw at the corner - slowly pull out the plastic cover around the dash board - unscrew the clock panel - replace bulb - check if it is working bright / dim (with head lights on) - fix the panel back - enjoy. |
Originally Posted by ch.nathan
(Post 2515991)
I did that immediately, and am able to see the digits. Even the clock is running - the 'colon' is blinking and I am also able to adjust the time. That's good news. Thankx planet_rocker. You really rock!! |
Originally Posted by ch.nathan
(Post 2515991)
The clock is on the left side of the cluster and headlamp leveller is on right side of the cluster. Are you sure they are connected to a single cover? |
Originally Posted by planet_rocker
(Post 2515997)
Yes - single piece of black (or beige in some palios) plastic cover around the dash board - extends till top of the Head Unit area edit: head lamp leveler on the inverted U plastic cover which is fixed to the black / beige plastic cover |
Originally Posted by ch.nathan
(Post 2516051)
Just went down and took PICs. Do you mean I have to remove this first? |
Originally Posted by ch.nathan
(Post 2516051)
And then the whole panel cover comes out? |
Originally Posted by Dud_Dodo
(Post 1191575)
I have this slight 'thud-thud' noise from the rear hatch door, only when I go over bad roads though. Mine has run just over 7800 Kms & is due for the second service which 'm planning to get done tomorrow. I'd pointed this out to Babu from Greentracks during the first service as well but they couldn't fix it ('m not sure they were able to locate the source as well). Confused whether I should take her back to Greentracks or to Prerana (I bought it from them). If any of you guys have had this noise issue & have been successful in fixing it, please guide. P.S. 'm also planning to change the oil to Synthetic Oil during the service tomorrow, is this advisable now or should I wait longer? |
Originally Posted by Ice
(Post 1188308)
1. Rear rattling - Its the roof-mounted stop lamp!The plastic cladding that houses the lamp assembly is made of a quality plastic last used to make 5 rupee sunglasses for kids. It cracks after a few weeks of Bangalore-esque roads, and comes undone if you continue to drive over bad roads. The rattling also gets progressively worse. FIX: Change the housing, not the lamp. Either get it done at Fiat/Tata service stations, or at a roadside mechanic after picking up the housing from a spare-parts store. Note: Change only the housing - the A.S.S. guys will try to convince you otherwise. The housing costs Rs. 450/. Note: Don't try pulling the housing off yourself if the rattling becomes unbearable. You can end up pulling off the main bolt that fixes the entire unit to the body. (Don't ask me how I know about this....) |
Originally Posted by ch.nathan Hey, Any idea where I could get the plastic-housing, in Bangalore? I have tried all T.A.S.S. and all of them are saying they can't sell the housing seperately! |
Originally Posted by Ice
(Post 1188308)
2. AC - Ice formation - Once the AC runs continuously for 45 minutes to an hour (especially on the highway), the cooling reduces drastically. Prerana told me that this was because of ice formation, and was part and parcel of the design. I tend to agree with him, because I had the same issue with my Petra's AC. Fix: Nothing exotic, just irritating. Switch the compressor off every 30 minutes or so on the highway for a minute or so, and the ice melts.Look forward to hearing from the rest of you! |
Originally Posted by bottle
(Post 2599153)
I saw this ice formation on my car's A/C pipe when I opened the bonnet recently, wanted to confirm if this was normal since I don't remember noticing it before |
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