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Hi,
Xylo had run approx 7K KM since an engine oil change, ODO reading ~140K KMs. Refer pg-101 for details on previous oil change & flush process.

Overall I was happy with Shell Rimula R4, I would say slightly better than MX, both being 15w40 CI4. Now, I was in two minds for using BPCL MAK Platinum Plus, but eventually dropped it – didn’t have much feedback on forums!

This time I purchased ELF Performance 3D (15w40 CI4) @ Rs.2250 for 7.5 Ltr can. There was also a Total 4x4 (same specs) available with similar price, but I chose P-3D. ELF is anyways a Total brand.


I also got the MM OEM Packed Filter (filter was Red in color, as vs Black which is typically available in MM-ASS/market). No pic of filter!

This time I wanted to perform a “mega” flush and hence few days back I had already purchased STP Engine Flush @ Rs.400 from online shop (ebay). The STP mentions of containing Kerosene !
I locally searched for some cheap oil (same grade) and got Techol by Zet Lubricant (Vapi based company), branded to be used on rickshaw (/auto), priced at Rs.200 per ltr. I already had some spare oil - MX, HX5, MM-FEO.
Note: Since the vehicle will be running on idle just few minutes, I took a chance of ignoring the ratings (& brand!) and just ensured that grade was maintained.





The “mega” flush Process :

• With the already hot engine, poured about 80% of STP (abt 350 ml) in the existing oil and let vehicle run on idle for 15 minutes
• Drained the oil – it was ofcourse dirty & black
• Filled the flushing oils (Techol + MX + HX5 + MM-FEO) till dip-stick level was between Min & Max, and poured the remaining STP Flush and let vehicle run on idle for 5 minutes
• Drained the flushing oil – it also was dirty and black !
• Replaced with new oil filter
• Poured the ELF oil (remaining kept in a smaller can)

I will try to observe the performance of ELF and keep posted. Also, hopefully the “mega” flush did some positive changes :-)


Regards,

Hi Pranav,

You have mentioned that about 80% of the engine flush was used with the old oil. What was the benefit of that when you were to use a brand new oil for flushing anyways? Could have used the whole flush with the new draining oil.

Also, did you change the oil filter with the flush oil? If no, then you should have definitely used a new oil filter. When you are spending so much on flushing then it's better to use a new filter.

One more thing I would like to ask is when you are happy with one particular brand, then why do you keep on changing the oil brand? Any particular reason for it?

Instead of spending so much amount on mineral oil, wouldn't it be wise if you used synthetic oil. You could have benefited from synthetic oil and at the same time you can extend the drain interval as well. Excuse me for asking a whole lot of questions :)

Hi,

lemme reply :

a) old (existing) oil may have quite lost its detergent (cleaning) properties, but the newer (/flushing) oil will be quite strong with cleaning agents. Hence wanted to "rejuvenate" the old oil, but didnt want to overdo same with newer flushing oil. I have also read some negatives when using harsher properties of flush, so took safe steps ?!

b) existing oil filter may not be really clogged and mostly still hold filtering capabilities. with this assumption, filter was replaced only when filling Final oil. yes, a more meticulous process could involve a new filter even during the flushing process!

c) I like to play and experience different brands of engine oils. Only by such experiments, I could personally feel differences and provide a direct feedback. Someone once said "you should keep trying different shampoo / soap, and not stick to one !" Maybe engine develops an "immunity" by trying different syrups :-)

d) hmm... though this may open can of worms, when talking about Synthetic vs Mineral oil, lemme put it straight : Synthetic costs 3-4 times (or more) than Mineral. My typical driving conditions could easily be met by Mineral. And, I dont think I will keep the drain interval to 3-4 times (15K-20K KM!).

and finally, such processes does give some Kick !

To each his own, but I personally would have preferred to use the flush with the new draining oil coz the old oil itself is deteriorated and dirty and rejuvenating it with flush oil won't be as beneficial as using the flush with a fresh oil and a new filter.

Agreed to your point that synthetic vs mineral is a debatable topic but the single biggest deterrent for synthetics is cost. And anyways you are spending approx. twice the cost of mineral oil along with the additives and draining oil. And instead of the 7k service interval, even if you extend the drain interval to say 10k, which is absolutely normal for synthetics, your cost is more or less covered (synthetic being approx. thrice the cost as compared to minerals).

Regarding the kick it gives you, then it's your game altogether. Play the way you like:D

Hey Pranav
any feedback on your "mega flush" and Elf Performance 3D? Do you feel the "kick" as expected? I too have a xylo that is due for oil change and keen on applying the flush process or somewhat lite version of that flush. And as discussed above, the cost prohibits me to go for synthetic and I would be choosing Elf or Total or Shell HX-5 based on what I get in the market.
Also you mention you bought 7.5 L? Does Xylo need 7.5L or 6.5L as my mechanic mentions?
thanks in advance,

I happened to enquire with GS Caltex through their contact email, where they sell genuine GS Caltex Engine Oils and their Bangalore city Distributor's contact and their distributor contacted me directly back. I am interested in diesel engine oil for cars and asked him the rates, and he mentioned that Oil is imported from Korea and blended here locally (outsourced by GS). I was interested in CI+ grade oil and and he mentioned the following:
KIXX D1 PLATINUM PLUS API CI4+ SAE 15w40 semi synth
5l can- 1573/- (he may offer discounts)

On inquiring for fully synthetic oil he mentioned this below:
KIXX PAO APO SN CF SAE 5w40
4l can- 4520/- disc rate -3800/-
1l can - 1150/-

The distributor claimed that GS Caltex is no 2, next to Exxon Mobil Oils for diesel engine and said that GS sells via Amazon online as well but web presence is poor.
Contact: +91 9686426153 (Bangalore) distributor located at Dodda Banaswadi.

Hi, I am interested in knowing what is recommended for Elite i20 CRDI, and therefore may I know which source did you refer to and can you please share the source document link perhaps?

thanks.

I've used KIXX D1 PLATINUM PLUS in my Scorpio for the last 3 oil changes, and am very satisfied with it. You can check my posts on page 103 of this thread about my experience with this oil.

Cheers,
Vikram

As after any oil change, the initial few days, the car behaves quite silent - I think bit could be attributed to psychology! Such flushing was for my satisfaction & kick of internal cleanup, Im sure it wont do any bad!

Anyways, after running 2000 KM on Elf P3D, I didnt feel any major change, as compared to similar running with other oils. I will keep observing few more thousand KM and then maybe again give feedback.

However, currently I feel bit (just slightly) inclined towards Shell Rimula R4, because I strongly feel that even post 5K of running on it, vehicle was quite smooth. Again, this could be psychological!

Xylo can take 7 Ltrs, but its better to put 6.75 Ltr, and keep balance for top-up or next usage. you could put 6.5 Lts, and after few days check the level. depends on the packing you have.

Shell Helix HX-5 is CH5 (Semi-synth), whereas I would suggest Shell Rimula R4 CI4+ (semi-synth).

I've also heard good about GS Caltex (KIXX CI4+), if I find easily around my area then next time can try it.

Hello,

1) Any suggestions on which oil to use for an Innova Diesel?
2) In my recent service looks like the mechanic used 5W30 - however on googling looks like it should have been 10W30 - any thoughts on this or do both of them work out

Also what should be the oil change intervals for the Innova Diesel?


Thanks

If you want synthetic it's Delvac 1 all the way. No better diesel synthetic than this one. Shell makes a diesel synthetic too but it's not available here.

Stick to Toyota's 5W-30. That's their standard oil for all petrol and diesel engines with a life of 10K kms or 1 year whichever occurs earlier. Check your owners manual for further information.

My confusion came from searching online and some sites claim that the Toyota should be using 10W-30 instead of 5W-30. My vehicle is too old, so I seem to have misplaced the manual.

Using a synthetic - does it increase intervals or is it for performance or a lesser pace of degradation?

Thanks

Unless you have clocked a lot of mileage i.e. in lakhs of KMs, stick to what Toyota suggests. If it's an old engine try using a 15W-40 (the old default OEM oil). Don't use thicker oil without reason. It is a better lubricant for older engine but acts as a drag and affects fuel economy.

As for synthetic, it provides better lubrication and protection under far more strenuous conditions than mineral. But it does not extend drain intervals.

Use a synthetic is only if:

a) You want to pamper your car's engine (I do)
b) Your driving style and conditions are mostly high rev running and/or high load in wide temperature conditions.
c) The car manufacturer recommends it. Premium high performance cars almost always use synthetic.

Do note synthetic is offered as an option by Toyota at the dealers. Don't buy any synthetic if you believe it will lead to drain intervals of 20-25K. You still need to follow what Toyota tells you i.e. 10K. This 20K business is a story made up by dealers to sell their oils to unsuspecting customers. We Indians are bargain hunters at heart and fall for it. :)

If cost is an issue stick to mineral and the 10K drain interval.

Sorry for replying SO LATE..

I referred to the Owner's Manual of our Elite i20. The Engine Oil to be used for Diesel Engine should meet ACEA B4 Specifications. The API rating is not given.

Anyone been able to get their hands on Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40?