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MODS:
I can't edit my post above, would you please add this to the list of oils above and delete this post:

• Motul 4000 Motion Plus 15W40

Thank you!

None of these will hurt your car if they match the spec required. For the cheaper oils you may want to change somewhat more often but that’s about it.

Am I reading the API spec correctly here:

• CF-4 Introduced in 1990 and obsoleted in 2009.
• CI-4 First EGR engine spec and backward compatible with CF-4.
• CJ-4 First DPF system spec and backward compatible with CI-4.

My 2011 D4D manual oil grade spec states:

• G-DLD-1, API CF-4, CF or ACEA B1
• You may also use API CE or CD

So API CF-4 is the newest spec Toyota suggests, and thus API CI4-Plus would the most modern yet backward compatible oil for my car with EGR but no DPF, correct?

The options appear to be:

• Castrol Turbomax 15W40 API CI-4 Plus
• Mobil Delvac MX Plus 15W40 API CI-4 Plus

These are so cheap when buying 15L packs that I can change oil every 5000 Kms or twice a year.

1. Going by the book, is API CI-4 Plus the best compatible oil for an older CF-4 diesel?
2. What are the downsides of using a CJ-4 or CK-4 oil in this engine?

CK4 is fine for non dpf cars and fully reverse compatible with older specs.

Or as it says acea b1 you just use a 5w30 acea a5b5 and your Fortuner will thrive on it.

Guys, require some advise

My Mahindra Thar CRDe (2012 - BS4) has run close to 80,000 km

After the initial running-in of 10,000 km and until 70,000 km I used Mobil Delvac1 5W-40.
Since then switched over to Motul XCess 5W-40 (due to non-availability of Delvac1)

I roughly drive 10,000 km in a year

Planning to switch over to Liqui Moly - Molygen New Generation 5W-40
Will it be an overkill or should I stick to Motul XCess?
The drain period for Liqui Moly - Molygen is more than 20,000 km!

Approximate prices for 6 litres of Motul XCess 5W-40 and Liqui Moly Molygen New Generation 5W-40 costs are Rs. 4,900 and Rs. 6,500 respectively

Thanks in advance

Hi All,

Need recommendations for changing engine oil to fully synthetic on my XUV700 diesel AT. From my understanding the oil used by ASC is semi synthetic despite the service manual recommending Fully synthetic.
(Maximile Ultra V4 Fully synthetic vs Maximile Ultra Semi Synthetic)

With my limited research, I have found out that the grade of the oil used is 5w30. And the requirement for bs6 is ACEA C3. I have narrowed it down to Castrol Edge5w30 LL or Amsoil Turbo Truck 5w40. Are these right oils for BS6 diesel Powertrains?

These oils are way overkill for a bs4 Thar. Get any good 5w30 or 5w40 synthetic a3b4 or a5b5, or any mineral ck4 rated oil eg Castrol and your Thar will be just as happy. Or just the green Maximile FEO.

Acea c3 or ck4 oils are both good for bs6 - if you can afford regular fills of Castrol edge or amsoil, pick Castrol Edge

Or source the correct FEO v4 which is a decently formulated oil at a quite cheap price from any Mahindra parts distributor.

Hello,

I have a Ford Fiesta 1.4 diesel (2010), which I bought in April, last year. It had some engine issues, so gave it to a local mechanic, which my cousin trusts. At the time, I wanted to use synthetic engine oil for the car and so the mechanic put Caltex 10w 40 fully synthetic engine oil.

It's been more than a year and I am planning to change the oil again. But should I if the car has only run around 5k kms? Or it's good to change oil after a year or so.
And I checked ford manual and called the official service center people and learned that the grade to be used is 5w 30. I live in Gujarat and temperature usually goes to 40 degrees in the summer and usually above 30 most part of the year, so is it good to use 10w 40 or go with the recommended 5w 30 for my next change?

And the service center uses semi synthetic oil, so should i just use that as my running is very low? I don't mind the extra money for the fully synthetic one, but if it doesn't make any difference, why waste it?

Irrespective of what oil you pour, the typical life of an oil in engine is 12-15 months. So, choose to use a cheaper oil if your running is around 5k. A good mineral oil is more than enough. You can stretch to semi-synthetic as well for feel good factor.

Regarding grade, no harm in using xxW40 grade oil. There maybe slight drop in mileage

[quote=Regarding grade, no harm in using xxW40 grade oil. There maybe slight drop in mileage[/QUOTE]

So, a good quality 5w 30 semi synthetic will work, right? Do you have any suggestions?

Shell Helix Taxi or Castrol Magnatec, medium priced and very high quality for the price delivered

HI All,

I own a Seltos MT 1.5 Diesel BS6

Its currently out of warranty and I plan to get it serviced at my friendly FNG.

However am unsure of the oil grade since the brochure & past bills mention , servo G.E.O. 0W20 ACEA C5, I used to pay around 1700 for it at the service centre

I am unable to find this oil anywhere, checked many reputed dealers, I am sure this is mineral/semi synthetic at that price & I don't mind that, since its completely chauffeur driven vehicle.

What are the compatible oils for my car ? Hoping the Gurus here can help.

I do not want any issues with the engine or exhaust system since this is a BS6 diesel. I would rather send it to authorised centre but they are always very pushy for add ons, hence I would rather get it serviced on my own.

You can get an acea c3 which is fine for a bs6 turbo diesel at the cost of a little fuel efficiency at the most but far smoother running. But any and every c3 oil in the market is synthetic and expensive. Castrol Edge, Mobil ESP x2, shell helix ultra ect in the new brown cans etc. 3-4 thousand rupees per 3.5 litre can on an average. Just get your oil changed at the dealership and tell the SA to get lost if he tries to sell add ons and additives

Is there a point in flushing the engine at 60K to remove any oil sludge and using a treatment solution? I have a diesel XUV500 W11 that I use to do long trips across multiple states, etc.

Flush - Liqui Moly Engine Flush Plus
Treatment - Liqui Moly 20002 Ceratec Friction Modifier

If it is upto the end user, are there any downsides apart from the money spent? Workshop people's first reaction is "why?"

As long as the vehicle is regularly used and regularly serviced with OEM fluids there will not be any sludge. If you are going to use an additive \ flush in the engine which is not tested and validated by OEM it can create problems for you later - most likely the friction modifier you add itself may cause sludge :D , which is then removed by engine flush from the same company perhaps.

mHawk uses hydraulic valve lifters, I think the timing chain tensioner may also use oil pressure among many other things - Please do not add any additives either to oil or diesel.