[T1000]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

I was worried about the not so obvious end i.e the distributor end.

Firing order is 1-3-4-2, Please refer page 311 of the workshop manual.
Alternatively, refer engine bay pics in this thread.
The cylinder that is closest to the distributor is No 4.

Initial ignition timing (Test switch terminal grounded or
fixed with SUZUKI scan tool): 5 1 BTDC (at idle speed)
Ignition order 1–3–4–2

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

The workshop manual mentions the procedure in detail and I have no doubts about it, but the only issue is that I'm unable to find the marking mentioned in the workshop manual on my motor and pulley, I guess I might be looking at the wrong angle as I was trying to peek in through the sides with AF box still in place, would get that removed once the new parts arrive.

The markings are at the crankshaft pulley and its difficult to find, you may have to remove the air filter box.
Use chalk powder to get a clear view.

If you are changing the coil and the cables, then you might as well change the distributor cap. it costs around 400.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Did you get the injectors cleaned?

Not yet, ordered the remaining parts i.e grommet and O ring from Bodomo a while ago. Would go ahead with the cleaning once the parts arrive.

Where does the fuel drip from and how much do fuel do you normally fill? Full tank? Fill only till the petrol dispenser switches off. Do not overfill. Also, check if the breather hose + overflow pipe attached to the fuel filler inlet is blocked. Also, tell the attendant to fill the tank at a slower pace.

The drip was under the car, a few inches away from the rear wheel.

The dripping is there when I fill half tank i.e 1~1.5k of fuel, when I fill for full tank i.e 2.5~2.8k I've noticed that the dripping/overflow would be going for a bit after until I drive a short distance.

If its not much trouble please educate me on how the overflow pipe is routed, does it passively let fuel drip to the ground like on motorcycles?

Originally Posted by T1000

If you are changing the coil and the cables, then you might as well change the distributor cap. it costs around 400.

Thank you for the advice, ordered it on Bodomo, costs around 650/-.

Can I replace the cap without having to be bothered about setting timing? My presumption is that I take the old cap off, and fix the new cap with reference to the position the old cap was fixed in, please correct me if I'm wrong.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

The drip was under the car, a few inches away from the rear wheel.

The dripping is there when I fill half tank i.e 1~1.5k of fuel, when I fill for full tank i.e 2.5~2.8k I've noticed that the dripping/overflow would be going for a bit after until I drive a short distance.

If its not much trouble please educate me on how the overflow pipe is routed, does it passively let fuel drip to the ground like on motorcycles?

I think you have a couple of defective cracked hoses. Check following:

a) Part no # 5 and the hose attached
b) Part no 8, the breather hose.

The image shows the routing.

Can I replace the cap without having to be bothered about setting timing? My presumption is that I take the old cap off, and fix the new cap with reference to the position the old cap was fixed in, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Absolutely, no need to check timing. The ONLY time you need to check timing is if parts like the distributor and allied sensors are removed from the engine. So do not perform any adjustments or disassembly of these parts if you don't have the right tools and the manual. You can seriously compromise engine performance.

[ashwinprakas]

Another quick update. After being on the internet for a bit I got to learn that the rotor should ideally be replaced with the distributor cap, so I've ordered one as well, it's around 450/-

And while figuring out how to replace the rotor I came across a video where a dude showed how to set the timing without a timing light.

He takes the cap off and sets the rotor to plug one, the pulls out the cable coming from the coil going into the distributor cap and grounds it to the distributor body, he has the motor turned to 10 Degrees BTDC and the ignition on ON, now when he rotates the distributor it fires at a specific point and he stops and locks the distributor in place and reassembles everything.

The technique makes sense, thought I'd post it here to get your suggestions before experimenting.

[Leoshashi]

Are the rotors and distributor cap available in MGP?? Specially for the MPI Zen??

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Are the rotors and distributor cap available in MGP?? Specially for the MPI Zen??

No idea about MGP, I'm hooked on the Bodomo mobile app, have placed an order for both the rotor and cap, total price would be around 1100/-.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

No idea about MGP, I'm hooked on the Bodomo mobile app, have placed an order for both the rotor and cap, total price would be around 1100/-.

Can you share the link please?? Or the part numbers?? Even a screenshot of your order will do.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Can you share the link please?? Or the part numbers?? Even a screenshot of your order will do.

Sure bro, here you go.

The app doesnt have a link share option, hence sharing screen captures of the item page.

[chaudh2s]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

The drip was under the car, a few inches away from the rear wheel.

The dripping is there when I fill half tank i.e 1~1.5k of fuel, when I fill for full tank i.e 2.5~2.8k I've noticed that the dripping/overflow would be going for a bit after until I drive a short distance.

The leakage is most probably from fuel expansion tank which rest on top of fuel tank. The fuel tank would need to be lowered and then this expansion tank gets accessible and depending upon it's state, it can be repaired or replaced. Since it's an inexpensive part, better get it replaced. Hoses would most likely be fine, but if you see some cracking, as a preventive measure, get them replaced too.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

And while figuring out how to replace the rotor I came across a video where a dude showed how to set the timing without a timing light

It looks good and it could be done in an emergency.

But I think you should wait till you get the proper tool and do a perfect job the way the MSIL recommends it be done in the service manual.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by chaudh2s

The leakage is most probably from fuel expansion tank which rest on top of fuel tank. The fuel tank would need to be lowered and then this expansion tank gets accessible and depending upon it's state, it can be repaired or replaced. Since it's an inexpensive part, better get it replaced. Hoses would most likely be fine, but if you see some cracking, as a preventive measure, get them replaced too.

Having a look at the parts manual I'm confused by the number of tubes running up and down, hence I guess it would be best for me to just lower the tank and then get non OEM tubes in bulk and use as required.

I would order the expansion tank along with the fuel filter as I intend to change it in the next couple of thousands anyways and just to confirm by expansion tank you mean the 'Liquid Vapor Separator' right?



From the looks of it I see that some kinda flange is used at the junctions, I presume that these are made out of rubber and that they should also be replaced, please confirm if so.

Originally Posted by R2D2

It looks good and it could be done in an emergency.

But I think you should wait till you get the proper tool and do a perfect job the way the MSIL recommends it be done in the service manual.

Tried a few other shops, they're clueless as expected, so my search continues.

And In the mean while I might consider replacing my air-box as the snorkel connector that I'd scrapped earlier was actually not entirely the snorkel connector put part of the air filter box, now my air filter box just has a huge hole which I guess warrants the need to replace the air filter box.

Also while I was simply browsing through Bodomo ordered these two inexpensive parts as my Zen has 3 12v ports set up and no place at all to keep the accessories, so at around 234/- I guess this would be a decent mod.



Idea courtesy @chiranjitp, Thanks!

[NKN]

I have a 2005 zen VXI with front power windows.. Have been looking for LHS power window switch which has malfunctioned. I have checked with all Maruti dealerships in Pune, they mention that this spare is no more in their catalogue. Can someone please guide me as to where I could possibly find it?

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by NKN

I have a 2005 zen VXI with front power windows.. Have been looking for LHS power window switch which has malfunctioned. I have checked with all Maruti dealerships in Pune, they mention that this spare is no more in their catalogue. Can someone please guide me as to where I could possibly find it?

Kindly post a pic of your PW switch. Zen got two types of switch. Although by 2005, I have a fair idea of what you need, but still to be on the sure side.

[NKN]

I didnt know there were 2 types. Here are the pictures if you can help

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by NKN

I didnt know there were 2 types. Here are the pictures if you can help

The only compatible part I can see as open is 37995-75F00-P4Z. Costs Rs. 1638. Another compatible part with different color is 37995-75F00-R8J. It costs Rs. 1474.

The only difference between them is color. The former one is dark grey, while I am not sure about the latter.

Place your order on Boodmo.com, so that in case a wrong part comes, you can return. Chances are slim, but its better to be on the safer side.

Regards
Shashi