[T1000]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

It's a bit difficult to comment without seeing the car and the engine, still if I were to play on the safer side, I'd say NO! Don't deviate from the W40 oil if the car has been on W40 oil for all its life. W20 oil is just ridiculous. One complain to MSIL and the dealer will have to correct it. Maruti doesn't support this nonsense
Shashi

I'm aware of the importance of engine oil and it's specifications. Let me share my practical experience.

I had this car for 8 yrs, the car was serviced at MASS for the first five years,
Engine oil was changed at every service, it used to cost around 4k including labor.(8k yearly)

When the car value dropped below 50k, it didn't make financial sense to spend 20% of the value of the car in oil only.

I switched to generic engine oil available at the fuel pump. It would cost me rs 900 for a change , including labor.
I changed the oil only twice in the last 3 years / 25,000km

The engine used to run super smooth, infact I could sell the car easily as the engine condition was excellent.

I don't know if it's because of CNG(supposed to run clean) or is it the unbranded companies have improved their quality or the entire thing about service is overrated

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Available on Boodmo here: https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-gasket_isc-6797423/

Thank you! Would be making a bulk purchase once I find out the HT Coil/Distributor Cap kit suitable for the Zen, along with other consumables that I might need to carry out similar preventive maintenance on a 13 year old car which I believe until reaching my hands have only been cared to cosmetically as most other Indian owned cars.

Originally Posted by R2D2

Injectors nozzles are cleaned using a specialised machine, not dipped in solvent and brushed.

Perfectly understood, as per the earlier shared video I intend to run pressurized injector cleaner through it, no more dipping in anything.

Please remember you are working on a car engine made largely of aluminium. It is preferable to torque fasteners to recommended values. If you don't have a torque wrench make sure you tighten fasteners evenly. Do NOT over torque or you will either break or warp something.

For the time being I have a 4~20 Nm torque wrench, which would do for the sensitive nuts and bolts, for the rest I guess I'll have to rely on feel and experience as I've had a hard time sourcing torque wrenches here in the past.

Leave it alone if it's performing normally. Rule of the thumb with electronic and mechanical components (I work & have worked quite extensively on electronic and electro-mechanical devices including computers and peripherals) - "If it aint broke dont fix it."

Got it! Unless a CEL pops up related to it I won't bother looking that way.

In bikes the exciter is on the rotor and pick up on the stator inside the generator assembly. In the old days it was called a CDI system - capacitor discharge ignition. A great trouble and maintenance free mechanism.

In cars it is normally on or near the camshaft. They generally adjust timing by turning the distributor and adjusting the breaker point gap. There is normally a timing mark on the flywheel.

But you need a timing light to perform this adjustment. And I'd once again advise you NOT to touch it unless you have the proper tools and the timing values.

Indeed, would not be going forward without proper knowledge and tools.

As for knowledge the understanding is that with the timing light hooked up I have to loosen the distributor cap nut and and then keep turning it until I get 5 Degrees BTDC at idle, since the car is stock I presume I would not have to be concerned with curve or advance at rev's.

Next order of business is to actually spot the inspection window with the markings.

Distributor cap can be taken off and replaced more or less plug and play. The distributor assembly is a little tricky as it has gears going down into the crankcase.

After checking prices I hope to replace everything between the distributor and head cover as I believe their service limit would just about be up, though only after confirming with the Service Guide provided above.

By washing the car regularly. Adjust the intervals according to where you live. In humid climes like in KL wash less frequently or you'll wind up with rust.

I do pressure wash the car once or twice a year depending on use but I never really considered letting water into the engine bay, guess I'll do so with moderation next time.

NO!!! That engine was designed to work on xW-30/40 or even xW-50 oil. I've said this earlier in an post on T-BHP - always use oil viscosities specified in your manual. xW-20 is for new generation engines. Do NOT experiment with engine oil viscosities and types

Lighter oils are part of the energy conservation propaganda which from the beginning never really set with me, I've been using regular Petrol/Diesel grade 20W50 on all my cars and motorcycles, shell is a reputable brand, cheaper by the liter(250~280/-) and runs consistent unlike the 30 grade crap that brings out clatter after an extended highway belting.

Originally Posted by T1000

You will find IAC gaskets in any spare parts shop, avoid using anabond.

You can source vaccum hoses from local hardware shops, It shouldn't cost more than Rs100, there are two different sizes.

Would be sourcing aftermarket hoses from local hardware store as well just to see how they fare against new OEM ones, I stuck to going for OEM in the first go as I've observed aftermarket plumbing to be inferior in the past, lets see if it its any different now.

You can make your own Injector cleaning kit without using expensive equipment. Make use of the old vacuum hoses.

Thank you, I intend to do exactly that, though with a slight difference being that I intend to go for a new tire valve for a better seal.

Just to confirm the Injectors on the Zen are 12v right? Or should I get a DC read from the connector? Would I get a read with the injector disconnected and the MM lead's connected in place with the ignition on? As I presume I'd get priming pulses, this is just my assumption.

Buy a can to clean throttle body & the injectors.
https://www.snapdeal.com/product/thr...r/645272187577

Thank you!

The first time i did this, I had a fuel leak as I didn't fix the rubber seal properly, luckily the engine was cold and i quickly disconnected the battery.

Can the O rings be purchased separately? If so please share the part numbers if you have them so that I may place an order at the earliest.

Since the injectors would be taken out and put back in I hope to change all consumables that even remotely come in the way, speaking of which are there any consumables that you replace when adjusting valve clearances? I presume that the rubber head cover gasket is reused.

settings for each component.
A simple multimeter is enough check every component in the electrical system
You can find step by step procedure to service each component

Thank's a TON!

Originally Posted by scorpian

Timing is easy to set and you need to clamp the timing light to plug no1, and focus the light to see the markings.Timing torch is cheap and handy so buy one and keep.Over a period of time the timing does change, at-least in mine they did so as part of routine maintenance i check the timing and set it if required.

Where is the inspection window located? A picture would help as I'm still a bit confused on where to actually point the timing light.

If there is a issue with HT cords, then you will find your car judder which is more prominent when ac is switched on. I suggest you replace the entire set of four plus one cord.

Juddering is present at low revs when under load. So I guess it would be best replacing them as I'm anyways putting time into solving other issues.

I do not get the 4+1 part, please elaborate on that, part numbers would help if possible.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Thank you! Would be making a bulk purchase once I find out the HT Coil/Distributor Cap kit suitable for the Zen, along with other consumables that I might need to carry out similar preventive maintenance on a 13 year old car which I believe until reaching my hands have only been cared to cosmetically as most other Indian owned cars.

Before you embark on this project:

a) Get all the information, preferably a workshop manual, at hand
b) Get the parts preferably genuine MSIL. @Leoshashi can help you with part nos.
c) Get the tools including a timing light, spanners, spark plug and other sockets & a feeler gauge for the plugs. Your TW would suffice for smaller bolts. Check the manual for torque specs. And once again - if you work without a TW do not overtighten and make sure you tighten all bolts evenly.
d) Get the lubes and other fluids required for the job
e) I just remembered timing marks, normally a small 'V' notch' can also be on the crankshaft pulley AND the flywheel. There will be corresponding mark on the engine block. You need to check both sides. Put a dab of white paint to make it more visible under the timing light flashes. To adjust timing get the steps from the workshop manual or a skilled tech. Don't mess with it if not necessary. Modern cars with electronic ignition (with or without distributor) rarely require timing adjustments.

If you need to get the wheels off the ground and take them off for the brakes:

a) Get a nice set of jack stands and a 2 or 3T floor jack. Now, I am particularly serious about these parts since your life could depend on them. Cars can crush human beings like bugs. So, even when the car is on the jackstands the floorjack should be placed under the car with the saddle just touching a frame or a **horizontal** chassis suspension member. Do not attach the jack to an angled suspension member.
b) Also put the spare wheel (or any other wheel you have taken off) under the car. As a last safety fallback use the car's scissor jack (make sure you orient it correctly ) at the appropriate part on the car's chassis.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

[chiranjitp]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Hey guys, Let me start of with a little bit of history, I drive a F10D Zen(Estilo Mom's car) and a G10B Zen.

I had got it used at 55k on the odo for 1.17L(+13k to change all 4 tires to Ceat Milaze as the stock tires were bust), the price was a bit steep for the LX variant(manual steering)

First of all congratulations of owning a Zen, the original hot hatch. I too bought a used Zen in 2016, a 01 Zen Vxi deluxe. Your car looks to be in immaculate condition (cosmetically), except the radiator grill. I think you ought to fit the OE radiator grill, will help in keeping the originality.

You took a good decision by choosing the Lx variant, the EPS on the Zen is really hopeless, too light & vague. A good friend of mine owns a 03 Zen Lx with around 150k km on the odometer, the non PS steering is really brilliant on that car.

Here is a recent photo of my car, note the registration number :

My friends Zen also did have a bit of bogging just off idle but I cannot seem to take that to be normal as I've read so much about the Zen's acceleration on team-bhp. There is hesitation to pull up inclines in 2nd gear with the AC on but I presume that it is normal, so my question is should I consider changing the Injectors?

This is not normal, a healthy Zen mpfi should should pull cleanly from any RPM, any gear. Mine still pulls brilliantly, even with 115k km on the odometer & with so much sludge on the head (refer to page 36 of this thread). I have exclusively driven the old F10 WagonR (similar to Zen Estilo), G10 Zen should accelerate as briskly as a F10 WagonR (or Estilo). The F10 engine has slightly better low end torque, while the G10 engine has a stronger top end.

With the AC switched on, the power does reduce substantially in my car. I guess this is normal considering the small engine, I have experienced the same power loss behavior in the Alto, M800 with the AC on. Somehow the WagonR F10 engine is better in this aspect, the power loss isn't as high as it is in the Zen. While climbing up inclines, I make it a point to switch off the AC.

On the subject of the Zen engine being sluggish when cold, my Zen idles really high when switched on for the first time in the morning, the idle RPM remains high until the engine is warmed up. With the idle RPM high, the Zen accelerates briskly even when cold. Now, say if I switch off the engine after idling for a few seconds (first crank of the morning), next time I switch on the engine, the idle RPM doesn't rise (even though the engine is cold). In such a scenario the engine does fell sluggish for 2-3 kilometers.

I also briefly owned a 98 Carburetor Zen, that car used to start in the morning with a single crank but would remain really sluggish until warmed up. We also have a 99 Carburetor Omni in our garage, she is also a bit sluggish when cold, though nowhere near as sluggish as the 98 Zen. Maybe it is an inherent nature of the G series engine to be sluggish, till optimum temperature is attained.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

I do not get the 4+1 part, please elaborate on that, part numbers would help if possible.

There are total 5 cables (comes as a set), one goes from the ignition coil to the distributor cap, the remaining 4 cables go from the distributor cap to their respective spark plugs (or cylinder). I did change the HT cables earlier this year (as a preventive maintenance), only thing I noticed was that the engine revved more freely with the new cables.

Part number : 33700M70FA0
Price : Rs. 1742

Photo of the HT cable part number:



I would also advice you to change the ignition coil, costs around Rs. 25xx. As many members have advised, get the throttle body & injectors cleaned (in that order). I believe these two items (HT cables & Ignition coil) are easily available in MGP stores. What is the fuel efficiency you are getting?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

First of all congratulations of owning a Zen, the original hot hatch. I too bought a used Zen in 2016, a 01 Zen Vxi deluxe. Your car looks to be in immaculate condition (cosmetically), except the radiator grill. I think you ought to fit the OE radiator grill, will help in keeping the originality.

Though I couldn't care less on how the car looked the matter with the front grill is that it was nearly impossible to find, I would have run at least 200 km's in search of it, finally had enough and chose to fabricate a frame and custom mesh it. Though if possible I would be getting myself a grill and keeping it for 2020, as I intend to scrap the current bumper and go for fresh unpainted bumpers on both ends after a good paint job. I realize that for your model Zen multiple varieties of front grills are available, can the same work out for me? Or do I have any other options than the stock design/color?

You took a good decision by choosing the Lx variant, the EPS on the Zen is really hopeless, too light & vague. A good friend of mine owns a 03 Zen Lx with around 150k km on the odometer, the non PS steering is really brilliant on that car.

It was really hard to get one in an unmolested state, I was almost about to decide on buying a brand new Nano non-ac base variant from the previous years stock as it was being sold at an amazing discount.

Here is a recent photo of my car, note the registration number :

Kudo's for acquiring the original design.

This is not normal, a healthy Zen mpfi should should pull cleanly from any RPM, any gear. Mine still pulls brilliantly, even with 115k km on the odometer & with so much sludge on the head (refer to page 36 of this thread). I have exclusively driven the old F10 WagonR (similar to Zen Estilo), G10 Zen should accelerate as briskly as a F10 WagonR (or Estilo). The F10 engine has slightly better low end torque, while the G10 engine has a stronger top end.

The F10D is a monster when it comes to putting down torque but the Zen with the G10 is a better drivers car, absolute pleasure to drive especially on the corners where it would be leaving cars twice and thrice its size behind.

There are total 5 cables (comes as a set), one goes from the ignition coil to the distributor cap, the remaining 4 cables go from the distributor cap to their respective spark plugs (or cylinder). I did change the HT cables earlier this year (as a preventive maintenance), only thing I noticed was that the engine revved more freely with the new cables.

I have added these to my cart, thanks!

I would also advice you to change the ignition coil, costs around Rs. 25xx. As many members have advised, get the throttle body & injectors cleaned (in that order). I believe these two items (HT cables & Ignition coil) are easily available in MGP stores. What is the fuel efficiency you are getting?

On Bodomo I find two ignition coils compatible with the Zen Type 2;

1. 33400M70F20 for Rs.2435
2. 33410M70F20 for Rs. 844

Would anyone be able to tell me the difference between the two parts? Because if its only MGP vs SGP then I'd be fine with going for the 844/- one as I do not have a brand fetish and Indian spares would do just fine.

I have no clue regarding fuel efficiency. I've done the same 160 km's route here with 650/- worth of fuel and with 1000/- worth of fuel when the price here was around the 75/- mark. So I'd say anywhere from between 13 to 18 Kmpl on the highways and in the city I presume it would be less so lets say sub 10 kmpl.

Speaking of fuel efficiency checks, is it normal for the car to spill fuel when filled up to the brim? If so how do yo fill up to avoid spills?

[T1000]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Thank you, I intend to do exactly that, though with a slight difference being that I intend to go for a new tire valve for a better seal.

Check out more youtube videos, i saw a clean DIY kit which uses a syringe.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Just to confirm the Injectors on the Zen are 12v right? Or should I get a DC read from the connector? Would I get a read with the injector disconnected and the MM lead's connected in place with the ignition on? As I presume I'd get priming pulses, this is just my assumption.

Injectors use 12v pulsating signal, MM wouldn't read constant 12v and the signal is sent only when the engine is running.
It can be connected directly to the battery.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Can the O rings be purchased separately? If so please share the part numbers if you have them so that I may place an order at the earliest.

O-rings can be purchased but the rubber cushions(4 at the injector end and 2 at the fuel delivery pipe end) are not available.
Ensure the rubber cushions are not damaged and do not interchange the cushions.

Buy couple of spare O-rings as it may get damaged during installation.
take care to lubricate the ring with oil before installation.
The entire servicing procedure is documented in the workshop manual

Attaching the price list and parts list for all maruti cars, the doc is old.
Use it only to get part numbers and to get an idea on the price.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

I presume that the rubber head cover gasket is reused.

Yes,
Tappet setting job requires special tools and additional skill, I give it to a local mechanic.

[chiranjitp]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Though if possible I would be getting myself a grill and keeping it for 2020, as I intend to scrap the current bumper and go for fresh unpainted bumpers on both ends after a good paint job. I realize that for your model Zen multiple varieties of front grills are available, can the same work out for me? Or do I have any other options than the stock design/color?

Is the Zen type ii radiator grill that hard to get? If you have got the part number, you can place an order on Boodmo, they have in the past got me some rare parts. The other thing you can do is go to a MGP store & place an order, if they tell the part has been discontinued, ask them to do a live stock search. Live stock search will show the exact place where the part is in stock, live stock search came to my rescue when I was looking for a speedometer (for our 99 Omni).

About fitting the old Zen's radiator grill in your car, I once saw a Zen type I (like my car) with a Zen type II (like your car) radiator grill. So, there is a possibility that the grill may be interchangeable. Though, I have no idea how will the type I radiator grill look on your car.

Here is a photo comparing both the grills, dimensions look same to me:

On Bodomo I find two ignition coils compatible with the Zen Type 2;

1. 33400M70F20 for Rs.2435
2. 33410M70F20 for Rs. 844

Would anyone be able to tell me the difference between the two parts? Because if its only MGP vs SGP then I'd be fine with going for the 844/-

The best way to check the correct part number is to see the sticker on the Ignition coil, that sticker will have the part number written on it. My Zen's ignition coil has 33400M70F20 written on it, maybe your Zen has a different part number. The ignition coil on my car is surely not a SGP, it has Lucas TVS written on it .

Here is a photo of the part number of my ignition coil:

I have no clue regarding fuel efficiency.So I'd say anywhere from between 13 to 18 Kmpl on the highways and in the city I presume it would be less so lets say sub 10 kmpl.

Speaking of fuel efficiency checks, is it normal for the car to spill fuel when filled up to the brim? If so how do yo fill up to avoid spills?

My car returns close to 20 KMPL on the highway without AC, on the city the figure drops to 14-15 KMPL (with 30-40% AC). With 100% AC & city driving, she returns around 12 KMPL. All measurements done by tankful to tankful method.

It is not normal for the Zen to spill fuel when filled up to the brim, I have never faced this problem with my car, even our Omni doesn't have this problem. I make it a point to stop the pump attendant at the auto cut-off point, no more filling after the auto cut-off. I suggest you get this problem looked at, something is not right here.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

On Bodomo I find two ignition coils compatible with the Zen Type 2;

1. 33400M70F20 for Rs.2435
2. 33410M70F20 for Rs. 844

Would anyone be able to tell me the difference between the two parts? Because if its only MGP vs SGP then I'd be fine with going for the 844/- one as I do not have a brand fetish and Indian spares would do just fine.

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

Is the Zen type ii radiator grill that hard to get?


The best way to check the correct part number is to see the sticker on the Ignition coil, that sticker will have the part number written on it. My Zen's ignition coil has 33400M70F20 written on it, maybe your Zen has a different part number. The ignition coil on my car is surely not a SGP, it has Lucas TVS written on it .

33400M70F20 is the part number with Ignition coil and Igniter in the package. Hence expensive.

33410M70F20 has only Ignition coil, and is therefore cheaper.

Igniters rarely go bad, hence it's not required. Choose the cheaper option. Another information, just for your knowledge. A part isnt SGP if it has *M* in between. For example,33400M70F20 is MGP. 33400-70F20 is SGP. Hope you get this point.

Regarding grill, the part is a rare item because there are less Type 3 Zens in the market compared to Type 2 ones. But the part isn't discontinued for sure. Order on boodmo or MGP store, provided you have the right part number. A lot of part numbers on Boodmo and oriparts, specially WRT Zen and older cars are wrong.

Regards
Shashi

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by T1000

Check out more Youtube videos, i saw a clean DIY kit which uses a syringe.

Thank you for the lead, that seems to be the best means of getting the job done. Would take the injector to a medical store to get the right size syringe.

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

About fitting the old Zen's radiator grill in your car, I once saw a Zen type I (like my car) with a Zen type II (like your car) radiator grill. So, there is a possibility that the grill may be interchangeable. Though, I have no idea how will the type I radiator grill look on your car.

Thank you for the information, would try to source a Honeycomb type grill as I find the kind used on mine to be a bit fragile in comparison, might be my perception.

car returns close to 20 KMPL on the highway without AC, on the city the figure drops to 14-15 KMPL (with 30-40% AC). With 100% AC & city driving, she returns around 12 KMPL. All measurements done by tankful to tankful method.

It is not normal for the Zen to spill fuel when filled up to the brim, I have never faced this problem with my car, even our Omni doesn't have this problem. I make it a point to stop the pump attendant at the auto cut-off point, no more filling after the auto cut-off. I suggest you get this problem looked at, something is not right here.

All my runs were done with the AC on as I've been under the notion that driving with the windows rolled down was somehow bad for the car, but after going through Jeroens recent travelogue in a soft top I'm tempted to run with the windows rolled down, never really liked tiny concealed spaces to begin with, plus the FE advantage would also be a plus!

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

33400M70F20 is the part number with Ignition coil and Igniter in the package. Hence expensive.

33410M70F20 has only Ignition coil, and is therefore cheaper.

Igniters rarely go bad, hence it's not required. Choose the cheaper option. Another information, just for your knowledge. A part isnt SGP if it has *M* in between. For example,33400M70F20 is MGP. 33400-70F20 is SGP. Hope you get this point.

Regarding grill, the part is a rare item because there are less Type 3 Zens in the market compared to Type 2 ones. But the part isn't discontinued for sure. Order on boodmo or MGP store, provided you have the right part number. A lot of part numbers on Boodmo and oriparts, specially WRT Zen and older cars are wrong.

Thank you Shashi would add the product to my cart and finalize purchase as there isn't anything more to add I believe other than the O rings which I guess I'll have to ask about in neighbouring shops, should I specifically ask for Zen Injectors O rings or is it a common/universal part?

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Thank you Shashi would add the product to my cart and finalize purchase as there isn't anything more to add I believe other than the O rings which I guess I'll have to ask about in neighbouring shops, should I specifically ask for Zen Injectors O rings or is it a common/universal part?

O Ring of injectors are a common part and should be easily available in any MGP store. Don't use local ones.

I think I have mentioned the part numbers couple of times in my MGP thread and also page 8 of my M800 thread. Kindly check.

Regards
Shashi

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

I think I have mentioned the part numbers couple of times in my MGP thread and also page 8 of my M800 thread. Kindly check.

Thank you once again!

Order finalized and payment made!

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

If your Zen has a coolant line in the throttle body, its better to bypass that. The bearings of IAC usually get stuck due to humidity(if the gasket goes bad for some reason). It was removed from Zens and M800s 5 speed after March 2002.

It was there in my car, and my SA bypassed it.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-...ml#post4365323 (The love of my life - A 2000 Maruti 800 DX 5-Speed. EDIT: Gets export model features on Pg 27)

PS: EGR in Zen can be easily located near back side of intake manifold.

I cleaned the IAC by spraying into the outlet that you have shown. Now the throttle body is also clean. But I face the issue of high idle when I start the car after a long halt. The idle remains high even after the engine heats up and I have to start and stop the engine a few times to get it back to normal. Any idea why?

Also, the coolant lines are not bypassed. Can you post a few pics of your 800's throttle body with the bypassing done? And how you have plugged the inlet and outlet of the throttle body?

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

I cleaned the IAC by spraying into the outlet that you have shown. Now the throttle body is also clean. But I face the issue of high idle when I start the car after a long halt. The idle remains high even after the engine heats up and I have to start and stop the engine a few times to get it back to normal. Any idea why?

Also, the coolant lines are not bypassed. Can you post a few pics of your 800's throttle body with the bypassing done? And how you have plugged the inlet and outlet of the throttle body?

Just spraying gently won't help, you have to spray generously and keep the rpm raised at the same time for all to burn. I hope you did it this way.

Was the erratic idle issue solved?? Also that high idle rpm you talked about, is that a new development after you did the cleaning??

Regarding the throttle body bypass pics, I'll try to upload them by late evening. I have the pics somewhere in my laptop.

Regards,
Shashi

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Just spraying gently won't help, you have to spray generously and keep the rpm raised at the same time for all to burn. I hope you did it this way.



Was the erratic idle issue solved?? Also that high idle rpm you talked about, is that a new development after you did the cleaning??



Regarding the throttle body bypass pics, I'll try to upload them by late evening. I have the pics somewhere in my laptop.



Regards,

Shashi

What I did was, spray the carb cleaner into the outlet when the engine is idle. Just before the engine starts to die I pull the accelerator cable to raise the rpm. Repeated this around 6 times. Is this the right way?

The idle issue is there since a long time. I want to rectify that.

[saket77]

Sagar, the cold engine high idle RPM issue is a genuine one with the Zens. My Zen suffers the same. After a cold start in the morning, the engine RPM at idle will stay high until I shut off the engine and restart; else it settles itself after a really long drive.

I have spoken about this to MASS many times but they have not been able to solve the issue as yet.

Regards,
Saket.