[govigov]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

True love knows no boundaries: Where there is a will, there has to be a way
Since when did this thread become sensible??

You guys should invest in a 3d printer, or at least try to get access to one. You guys should be able to make some hard to get parts/trims by 3d printing them.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by govigov

You guys should invest in a 3d printer, or at least try to get access to one. You guys should be able to make some hard to get parts/trims by 3d printing them.

I do have access to a 3D printer, but currently it's just for fun and learning new stuff, rather than seriously making something.

Only yesterday we were discussing about a new HL design for his M800 and this is what he came up with.

[Leoshashi]

Update time: There were some minor issues with my car, which were rectified yesterday.

Issue No 1: I felt that the vibrations on clutch pedal while leaving was a bit more. I mean it was so less that 90% mechanics and workshops dismissed it as normal thing in an 800. I know my car inside out, was therefore not convinced. My SA Mr. Dhiraj said it can be because of weak torsional springs of the clutch plate, but removing a gearbox for such a minor imperfection wasn't necessary.

2. Issue No 2: Weak Rear engine mount: During the crossmember change, we had noticed an almost shot engine mounting. But since getting access to rear one was cumbersome and time consuming, I decided to wait for some time.

So got the clutch plate, pressure plate and the rear engine mount changed yesterday. Clutch was some 80k old, but still had decent life. Changed it only because of weak springs.

Also, the day started with stripping BHPian Sumitsinha0280's 1992 M800. This car was sold in 2002, and retrieved back in 2011 after it was found abandoned, almost waiting to be scrapped. Then it was restored in a local FNG, and the work appeared fine initially, but actually it was badly tinkered and all rust spots were hidden by putty rather than solving the issue. So this time we have decided to go for the complete overhaul. All chassis panels will be replaced, rather than tinkered and then will be rust proofed in the best way possible using Zinc Primer and Epoxy. Also the engine and gearbox will be changed. Engine has done more than 4 lac kms and now it cannot be overhauled as the block's condition is very bad(was rebored once).

Time for pics:

My toolkit



Stripping begins











At MASS with GG



5 Speed 800 uses the same clutch as WagonR 1.1



Ceekay: @ Experts: What are your views on the hot topic: Valeo vs Ceekay? Which one is better??



SGP Transmission mount



Gearbox



Shot rear engine mount



Looks beautiful even when it's in air



L to R: BHPian Sumit's stripped 800, my Golden goose and aspiring BHPian Aditya's Green 1998 M800



Total Cost incurred: Rs. 3900. Labour was Rs. 1200 for the entire job.

Regards,
Shashi

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Ceekay: @ Experts: What are your views on the hot topic: Valeo vs Ceekay? Which one is better??

When it comes to Maruti and Petrol, I have had better experiences with Ceekay than Valeo.

I recollect having a thread on this topic as I had faced issues with Valeo that Ceekay solved it

Originally Posted by paragsachania

MGP clutch comes from 2 manufacturers - Valeo and Ceekay. Both have different design in terms of their diameters and the extent to which the cover assembly covers the plate.

The one which was replaced and was giving prouble was Valeo.

Clutch fixed now in 45 minutes, car started, service advisor moves the car for just 10 meters and comes out and says "Banni saar" with a smile and I needn't guess anything but realise that the issue was resolved.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

When it comes to Maruti and Petrol, I have had better experiences with Ceekay than Valeo.

I recollect having a thread on this topic as I had faced issues with Valeo that Ceekay solved it

Your experience was really a bad one. I asked my SA just now about his views, he said Ceekay is much better than Valeo for Alto/WagonR Clutches. They never install Valeo in any car even if they have in stock. He had some bad experiences with Valeo in past.

Regards
Shashi

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

They never install Valeo in any car even if they have in stock.

I guess more than just the bad experience, it was the ability to spot the smallest of difference which I was able to. A normal owner would be happy about the new clutch while I was scratching my head thinking something was amiss.

At least your post confirms my belief till now that for my WagonR, Ceekay was the best fit; So thanks for the reassurance. I don't even know when the next clutch replacement is due. I drove it just yesterday and it passed the 'ramp test' in 2nd gear so I am sure the clutch is certainly in good shape. That also confirms that my better half is able to take care of it like I did .

[Leoshashi]

Vandalised



Someone has used sand paper or something abrasive while the car was parked outside. I tried polishing but it was of no use.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Someone has used sand paper or something abrasive while the car was parked outside. I tried polishing but it was of no use.

Oh dear! I know how it must feel. I really hate these lousy people.

So sorry to read about this. Do you intend to get the bonnet painted?

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Do you intend to get the bonnet painted?

That's what everyone recommended. I first showed it to a FNG nearby if it can be fixed. They said the scratches are too deep and the shine is gone too.

I was somehow not convinced. This is the process I followed:

1. Wet sanded the entire hood with 2000 grit sandpaper. The hood turned extremely dull.

2. Kept all detailing stuff in my car's boot and drove to a friend's washing centre who has a Rotary polisher.

3. He was shocked, and said he doesn't believe if it can be restored. I was anyways mentally prepared for a new paint job, so decided to try myself.

4. Using different cutting and polishing pads, this is the order of products I followed: 3M finesse it, Scratch out, Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, Meguiar's Ultimate Polish and finally, the good old Collinite 845.

Pics:

Heroes of the day



Your's truly in command of the polishing machine. I was so tensed that only after the shine came back, I realised that I had forgotten to change.



Mirror finish after all 5 passes









In some other news, did some upgrades: 800 gets a spindly grab handle with exposed screws. I wanted a meaty one, with hidden screws. Retractable ones like the current gen cars need some mods, which I didn't want. So finally, I got one, from the Maruti stable.

Original factory fit handles



New chunky ones



Cleaned the headliner and the handle



With........



Looks nice now



Some stupidity on tappet cover.



Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

That's what everyone recommended. I first showed it to a FNG nearby if it can be fixed. They said the scratches are too deep and the shine is gone too.

I was somehow not convinced. This is the process I followed:
1. Wet sanded the entire hood with 2000 grit sandpaper. The hood turned extremely dull.

4. Using different cutting and polishing pads, this is the order of products I followed: 3M finesse it, Scratch out, Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, Meguiar's Ultimate Polish and finally, the good old Collinite 845.

Your's truly in command of the polishing machine. I was so tensed that only after the shine came back, I realised that I had forgotten to change

Bravo!! Superb job! Heck you ought to get into the detailing business. Believe me you have what it takes and possess far more talent than what I see at these local 3M stores.

And yeah those Megs and Collinite products are really worth the price.

[saket77]

All good but what's with this 'zuki'.

I think you never missed the extra cylinder so badly. Apart from the extra CCs, it could have really helped accommodating the 'Su'

I see a masking tape on the fender line to bonnet in the 'vanadalised' picture. You took the picture after starting the repair job?

Great work nonetheless.

Regards,
Saket.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by saket77

I think you never missed the extra cylinder so badly. Apart from the extra CCs, it could have really helped accommodating the 'Su'

True Nevertheless, often people affectionately call these machines as Zukis.

I see a masking tape on the fender line to bonnet in the 'vanadalised' picture. You took the picture after starting the repair job?

Immediately after reaching home, I started masking etc. Tried polishing by hand, but it didn't work. After that I posted the Vandalised update

Regards,
Shashi

[Leoshashi]

Update: I decided to clean the IAC valves and throttle body myself. The throttle body was spotlessly clean, but the IAC was badly clogged. Also it's gasket was damaged, which meant I had to head to my MASS again. The initial batches of the 5 Speed 800 and Zen got coolant line through the throttle body, which probably acted as a charge pre heater in colder countries. I am not too sure about its need, hence would like expert members to comment.


This coolant line in throttle body was deleted from March 2002 onwards by Maruti. My SA recommended deleting that line too, as it significantly heats up the intake air, and secondly, is one of the known reasons of IAC bearing failure if the gasket fails for any reason. We connected the intake and output side of the coolant pipes using a metal tube(probably a part of Gypsy's Fuel line) and clips.

I guess this was the reason why power rating of post 2002 5 Speed 800s was 47BHP, as opposed to 45BHP of my 2000 model. I have seen the entire parts cataog and only this was the difference in engine. Also I have read how deleting throttle body coolant line in cars results in some power gain. I am not sure how much my car gained, but I am optimistic. Also because of the thorough IAC valve cleaning, my 800 is now idling like a dream.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCFM9TpVblM

An image taken from Google, showing how the coolant lines pass IAC valve and Throttle body



Parts modified in March 2002



Squeaky Clean Throttle body, that tiny hole is from where air goes into the engine through IAC valve even when the throttle plate is closed.



The two coolant lines, these were joined together, by passing the throttle body



Some pics of the Goose:











I have also done some idiotic creativity using the ugliest grill 800 ever got, will take better pics and post next time.

Regards,
Shashi

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

I have also done some idiotic creativity using the ugliest grill 800 ever got, will take better pics and post next time.

This particular grill, which came in 800 after January 2003 till the Type 3 facelift came out, is known as the ugliest looking grill 800 ever got among 800 enthusiasts. I had some other idea. I was growing a bit tired of the same looks, and with her 18th birthday fast approaching, I was determined to get her some facelift.

Most people were in shock when I told them I am getting that grill. But this is what I did after bringing it home:

1. Masked the edges, leaving behind just the uncovered mesh.



2. I had Paint rattle cans and clear coat(Rustoleum Brand) at home, painted the mesh glossy black, and then pasted a subtle DX emblem.



Result:









In some other news, Golden goose is soon getting OEM rear wash wipe setup(from the LHD Maruti 800, and not some jugaad). Maruti 800 LHD used links for the rear wiper too, the motor is mounted near the RHS corner. I have verified the mounts, and everything will be a bolt on fit.



Even the hatch has a depression from behind where I'll need to drill a hole. All the parts which I need are either with me, or in transit. After the wiper setup, I'll be installing the OEM rear fog lamps too. The bumper and the fog lamp setup have already reached my MASS. Just waiting for a harness which is in transit(I want a plug and play setup, no tampering of the OEM wires.)

So after all this, my car will look like this:



My source of every part of LHD M800



Regards,
Shashi

[Leoshashi]

Quick DIY: Cleaning the Distributor and most importantly, the CMP sensor

In MPFI cars like the 800, Zen, Omni,Alto, Esteem etc, where distributor was used, it had a CMP sensor which was notorious for failing and creating starting issues. What's worst, for most of the models, CMP sensor isn't available separately. The whole distributor needs to be changed, which can be an expensive affair(more than 10k).

This can be prevented if the CMP sensor is cleaned regularly. Usually dirt and debris gets into the distributor, playing havoc with the ideal resistance values of the CMP sensor, eventually causing it to fail.

What is a CMP sensor: CMP sensor (Camshaft position Sensor). Located in the distributor, it converts the crank angle into voltage variation and sends it to ECM..


Symptoms of failing CMP sensor: Cranking but not starting, hard starting, etc.

How to check for CMP sensor failure using DTC codes, without SDT: I have made a detailed post here: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post4340761

Schematic diagram:



I performed the DIY on my car's distributor(Nippon Denso Make) but have explained the process using a brand new spare distributor(Lucas TVS make). Construction is exactly the same for both makes.

Nippon Denso Japan Make distributor in my car



Lucas TVS distributor: Distributor cap. Make sure the breather cap isn't lost else it accelerates the process of dust accumulation inside. Remove the two screws using 8mm socket.



Clean the insides of the cap. Also monitor the condition of the terminals and the carbon. Replace if its worn out.



This is the rotor. Pull it perpendicularly towards yourself.



Rotor removed. Clean it



This cap comes out easily. Clean it





That's the CMP sensor. There is a gap in between where dust needs to be cleaned using a fine brush.



Price of a new distributor if its not maintained well. This part number is specific to 5 Speed MPFI



In some other news, R2D2 Sir once commented I have some potential to be a detailer.

Originally Posted by R2D2

Bravo!! Superb job! Heck you ought to get into the detailing business. Believe me you have what it takes and possess far more talent than what I see at these local 3M stores.

Well I tried it out on the hood of a friend's Black Ritz which had heavily oxidised paint and lots of swirls. A 10 minute job resulted in this:

I let him buff the final step, and his smile explains it all





Regards,
Shashi