[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

I'll be going for the pre installed strut assemblies. The cost per pair for the options are:

1. MGP(Munjal Showa): Rs. 4000

2. MGP(Gabriel): Rs. 3800

3. Aftermarket(Monroe): Rs. 5200

4. SGP(KYB): Rs. 8900(expensive as these are direct import from Japan.)

With my experience of shock absorbers for 2/4 wheelers starting in the mid-'80s here's what I'd recommend in order of preference.

a) Monroe
b) Munjal Showa
c) Gabriel
c) SGP/KYB - In last place only because of the rip off price. Yikes!! Nearly 9K for a standard M800 OEM part! Otherwise, this would have been my 2nd preference

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Get the Monroe ones.

Originally Posted by asit.kulkarni93

If you can get them then please consider those.

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

If the OE strut lasted as much as it then I would prefer to get OE struts again unless there is a significant price difference between after-market and OE stuff.

Originally Posted by saket77

Monroe obviously is a good name. But I will go against the tide here and would recommend Munjal Showa.

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Settle down with Monroe and there is no logical reason why you must opt for SGP by paying so much and experienced similar ride?

Originally Posted by R2D2

a) Monroe
b) Munjal Showa

Thanks everyone, really appreciate your love and support.

I had made up my mind to go for Monroe Quick struts, but the Monroe dealer botched up at the last moment, and informed me that he has only strut element in stock, and that quick fix struts will take approximately 20 days as the part comes from Tamil Nadu.

2nd Best option was to go with Munjal Showa(MGP), and that's what I got.

Munjal Showa


As fresh as it can get!



Always change couples together

Old vs New

Installed

Thought of getting the alignment and the suspension angles checked

Everything in Green . They had all gone in red due to age.


Initial impressions:

1. No major difference in Handling
2. Ride quality has significantly improved
3. Slight wobbling which I used to experience at 30kmph is now completely eliminated.

Regards,
Shashi

[Leoshashi]

Noticed a minor oil leak from the tappet cover. The gasket had lived its life, and it was time for a new one. Decided to change myself, as it would also present me an opportunity to have a detailed look inside the engine.

Part used:

Part No:11189M84410
Name: GASKET CYLINDER HEAD COVER(CAR F8D
Price: Rs. 110.5

I was actually more interested in having a look around the area which till now I had seen just by endoscope. Was extremely delighted to see a clean engine, free of sludge or any accumulation. We have been religiously following the 5k change interval with mineral oils for the whole 3 lac kms this engine has run, and it has helped the cause. This is the first time I have crossed the 10k mark with this oil, and will be changing it soon. Experts like Parag Sir also confirmed that the engine is in great shape.

The leak


The state of the internals


In some other news, finally installed the switch on the dashboard after some detailed testing. A dedicated thread about the defogger installation is coming soon.


Regards,
Shashi

[Ramon]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

In some other news, finally installed the switch on the dashboard after some detailed testing. A dedicated thread about the defogger installation is coming soon.
Attachment 1673762

Regards,
Shashi

Happy to see that you found success with the defogger. Waiting for your detailed report.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Fixed another shortcoming in my car. I hated the finish of the MGA steering cover, but there was little I could do, as no one does a proper wrap in my city.

Thanks to my friend, Mr KrishnaRao from Bangalore, for purchasing a new steering, getting it properly wrapped and shipping it to me. Thanks a lot.

Shoddy quality of Steering wrap by Devraj's shop: Had heard nice things about the place, so asked my friend to get me a perforated leather wrapped steering wheel from Bangalore. However, the wrap is coming off at many places, within just 2 months of usage. To make matters worse, my car was rarely used in this period.

I rarely touch these places, so it can't be attributed to wear and tear either.





Thankfully, the ever helpful BHPian Audioholic came to my rescue, and will be getting another steering wheel wrapped in his presence from a place he knows, and shipping it to me soon. Thanks man!!

Regards,
Shashi

[sidindica]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Shoddy quality of Steering wrap by Devraj's shop: Had heard nice things about the place, so asked my friend to get me a perforated leather wrapped steering wheel from Bangalore. However, the wrap is coming off at many places, within just 2 months of usage. To make matters worse, my car was rarely used in this period.

I rarely touch these places, so it can't be attributed to wear and tear either.

Attachment 1676464

Attachment 1676465

Thankfully, the ever helpful BHPian Audioholic came to my rescue, and will be getting another steering wheel wrapped in his presence from a place he knows, and shipping it to me soon. Thanks man!!

Regards,
Shashi

Guess you need proper thick art leather like I did on my Palio. You can try this design also.

[Maverick79]

Hi Shashi,
I won over my mind and following my heart to refurbish my '98 M800.
Will be driving it from Hyderabad to Chennai on 2nd Oct.
Requesting you to check with your MASS to suggest a good MASS in Chennai.
Would be really great if your mechanic/ Supervisor knows some one in person any where in Chennai.
I know it's not so easy. However, still wanted to try.

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Maverick79.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by sidindica

Guess you need proper thick art leather like I did on my Palio. You can try this design also.

Thanks, will surely consider this design.

Originally Posted by Maverick79

Hi Shashi,
I won over my mind and following my heart to refurbish my '98 M800.

That's a great news, Congrats!!

Will be driving it from Hyderabad to Chennai on 2nd Oct.
Requesting you to check with your MASS to suggest a good MASS in Chennai.
Would be really great if your mechanic/ Supervisor knows some one in person any where in Chennai.

My SA wasn't aware about the current condition and review of MASSes in Chennai, but he did mention that he had heard good things about MSM Chennai in past.

Request you to get in touch with Chennai BHPians like Gansan Sir.

**************************************

Signing off with the latest pic of my 800, taken on the occasion of Vishwakarma Puja=The official detailing festival for us petrolheads.



Regards,
Shashi

[Leoshashi]

Update 1: New Engine Oil

It was almost a year since my car was running on the Liqui Moly, and even though it had run approx 12k on old oil, it still didn't look much tired. Still, I decided to follow the change interval and this time opted for Liqui Moly Molygen, their latest oil range.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwZnWqtb0SI

I had planned to order from Amazon, but a couple of friends also pitched in, and soon we needed around 50L of oil. We contacted a Liqui Moly distributor, and he offered us a superb price, since we were purchasing in bulk. Our order was:

48L engine oil MolyGen 5w40
5 cans of Engine flush(not for me)
5 cans of Molygen Additive (for friends who had tried this in States, and wanted to try them here too, not for me)

Out of this huge order, I needed only 4L oil. I paid around 500 rupees per litre for the oil, thanks to the bulk order.

Couple of BHPians had used this oil, and they were all praises for this oil:

BHPian Sumeethaldankar

The green stuff has started to show what it is made of. The car is so silky smooth I am just loving to drive it again. The oil coupled with the fact that I have adjusted the spark plug gaps for petrol mode has made the car smooth.. I just have to touch the go pedal and I can feel the response. Looks like I am going to be Liqui Molly customer for life. I doubt if i ever will go back to Honda for a oil change. Initially I was like what is this oil all about but after driving around 900 kms with the oil I understand why.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post4264955

BHPian GPA:

Well, I've covered ~2k kms since the engine oil changes and the difference is great. The engine revs to ~2,100 RPM on a cold start when earlier it used to rev to ~1850 RPM. The engine is definitely more silent and free revving and once the VTEC mode kicks in ~3,000 RPM, the car sures forward. Overtaking on the highway is easier and the engine doesn't feel strained one bit when cruising at 90-100 kmph.
While it is still early days, I do hope the performance of the oil continues until the 10k kms mark when I need to do the next change.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post4262018

Time for pictures:

1. I was so excited about the oil that I couldn't wait for the FEDEX courier to arrive. Rather drove to their warehouse and picked up the stuff myself.


2. Box contents:






3. My oil






4. Curious mechanics: What is this weird stuff??


5. We used this 1L can to measure the contents precisely. It has a scale on its side


6. Fluorescent Green color of the oil


Update 2. Unplanned visit to the bodyshop: I had matte black vinyl on the B-Pillar and door frames. However I wasn't too happy with the way they looked as it was not something which I can say Upto the level of factory finish. I had spoken to the painter at my MASS about this, and he said it can be done but masking will be key, and its best to come when workload is less. Today suddenly I saw the MASS deserted and the bodyshop was empty too. I asked if he is willing to undertake the job, and he immediately said YES!!

Since it was raining outside, we decided to do all the masking and prep work in their old paint booth. It took him close to 6 hours of effort for masking everything perfectly, prepping the surface. It was then when we discovered that the vinyl was holding water at an edge, and this resulted in some surface rust. So I was happy that I decided for this repair. One person was locked up inside the cabin to paste the masking tape properly, and then later drive the car to adjacent new booth for painting and baking. However eventually we decided to use the old booth itself, since I wanted a matte finish, and application of clear coat wasn't required.

The finish and work done is simply outstanding. Will post better pics tomorrow.

GG in the booth


Rust spotted.


Tiring process of masking begins:








He also painted the air filter assembly which had started to look a bit old.


Painting in progress


Update 3: Tested the defogger properly for the first time in rains

Scene 1: Rear glass fogs up


This baby is activated


After 1 minute


After 2 minute


After 3 minutes


After 5 minutes


So I guess the defogger is working normally. By the time it tripped at 10 minutes, the entire rear glass was clear.

Regards,
Shashi

[MAKMADDY17]

This thread has to be the best documented thread on the legendary 800. I am super impressed by the way it has been maintained, and I don't remember seeing such a passionately written thread anywhere. Hats off.

I also own a Maruti 800 5 Speed, and it needs a comprehensive restoration. No prizes for guessing which thread ignited this spark in me. Hopefully BHPian Leoshashi will guide me when I start the restoration early next year.

Keep up this child like passion for cars. This version of the 800 will become a collector's item in days to come, just like the SS80.

-Mayank

[Leoshashi]

Update: DIY Comprehensive n Crazy Cooling System flush.

Need: While the coolant was changed on time, it was never flushed properly in 18 years. All the mechanics did was drain the coolant and fill in new one. Also when I was a kid, I remember seeing some mechanics at dealer workshops topping up the radiator with tap water. So it was decided, a thorough cleaning should be done. As such, there was no issue at all with the car, except some traces of dust floating in the expansion tank.

What I needed:

1. Ring Spanner 10-11mm
2. Ring Spanner 12-13mm
3. Long Nose Pliers
4. Screw Driver
5. Tub
6. 1L Maruti Genuine Coolant Concentrate
7. 30L distilled water, priced at Rs. 7.50 per bottle.
8. Liqui Moly Radiator Flush
9. 10L IPA(IsoPropyl Alchohol), given by my college's lab assistant
10. Large drum(borrowed a 210L drum from my MASS)

Challenges & Precaution:

1. Nothing, other than finding a proper recycling and disposal centre. Everyone recommended putting it down the drain, but the anti freeze smells really fruity, and I didn't want any stray animals to taste it, as its poisonous. Lastly, got contact details of a certified waste recycling centre, and handed them over the flushed liquid.

2. Also, perform all these stunts only when the cooling system is cold, otherwise be prepared to receive a nice burning facial as soon as the radiator cap is removed.

3. Always have an eye on the temperature gauge for any spikes etc.

Process:

Day 1: Time involved: 30 minutes

1. Remove the radiator drain plug and the radiator cap. Removing the radiator cap ensures faster draining. This drain plug according to Suzuki's Service manual is present only in F8D 800s(aka 5 Speed). For other 800s, it can be done by opening the lower radiator hose. Let coolant drain. Put back the drain plug once the coolant has come out. Drain and flush the coolant in the expansion tank too. Pulling the expansion tank straight up releases it from its hook.

2. Pour 2L distilled water plus radiator flush into the radiator, and rest in the expansion tank. Drive the car for 30kms(1 day)

Day 2: Time involved=3 hours

3. Drain the radiator. At this point, I removed the radiator from the car. Disconnected the upper and lower radiator hoses, and unscrewed the two 10mm bolts which holds the upper radiator mount. Disconnect the pipe of the expansion tank, and pull the radiator straight up. Also remove the expansion tank and flush it with running water.

4. Took the radiator and soaked it up in IPA for 1 hour. The amount of dirt settled in the fins was unbelievable. The whole IPA turned mucky in no time.
After washing the radiator, took it to my bed and with the help of a safety pin and old metal comb, straightened most of the bent fins. I hate working in an uncomfortable way, so took it on my bed, and patiently straightened every single bent fin.

Day 3: Time involved=2 hours

5. Removed the thermostat by removing two 12mm nuts. Borrowed a high pressure washer and put its nozzle in the coolant intake side, and flushed everything nicely from the blocks. Surprisingly nothing much came out at that time. Again mounted back everything, added 2L distilled water plus flush and happily drove to work.

In the evening, again drained the contents after driving around 30kms for a day. At this time, from the coolant intake side, a lot of muck and scale type of things came out. I checked the debris, and it was proper muddy, and didn't find any rust particles.

Day 4 & 5:
I repeated the process of filling and draining thrice, but this time only with pure distilled water(no flush).

Day 6: After the last 2 flushes, no unwanted muck came out, and I was sure, the system is as clean as it can be. I hence drained out the radiator for the last time, and added 1.90L distilled water and 1L antifreeze, so that the ratio is close to the desired 1:2.

All this while, I made sure all the drained fluid was properly collected in the 210L drum.

Cost involved:

* 1L Maruti Genuine Coolant Concentrate=Rs. 285
* 30L distilled water, priced at Rs. 7.50 per bottle=Rs. 225
* Liqui Moly Radiator Flush=Rs. 145x2=Rs.290(Amazon Flash sale)
* Thermostat Gasket: Part No=17569M82001=Rs. 3.41

Total: Rs.803.41

Pics:

Items required


Visible: Upper radiator hose, upper radiator mounts and the expansion tank hose


Lower radiator hose


Drain Plug


Thermostat cap: Make sure the air bleed valve of the thermostat aligns with the arrow mark


Hook which holds the expansion tank in place, pull the tank upwards to release


Radiator flush: Used two of them


Maruti Genuine Coolant




Floating dirt in the tank, before flushing


Dirty radiator, before cleaning


After cleaning, assembling the radiator


Dirt which came out after the 4th flush. Two more were performed after this


Crystal Clear coolant, after the entire process


I am not much of a DIY person, so was pretty nervous in the beginning. Thanks to the moral support I got from BHPians like Saket77, Paragsachania and Captain Slow, I could complete the DIY without ruining any other thing. Also this awesome thread by BHPian a4anurag helped me to visualise the entire process: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do...ti-wagonr.html

If anything else you'd like to recommend, I am all ears.

Signing off with a picture of two cars, delivered on the very same day. Meeting after 17.5 years.


Thanks for reading!

Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

If anything else you'd like to recommend, I am all ears.

Superb DIY. TFS.

Not sure if GG has a heating element inside the cabin. But if it does you may want to consider also flushing out the heater element. The way to do this is the move the AC temp control to the max heat position so the valve opens up and any old coolant flows out and circulates with the rest of the fluid. Keep the valve open when draining the fluid. Replace the coolant as you would normally.

Obviously the best possible way to clean the heater is to remove the assembly from under the dash and clean it up like you did the radiator assembly. Too much of a bother frankly for the rest of us but for chaps like you & Sunnyboi it would be a piece of cake

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Superb DIY. TFS.
The way to do this is the move the AC temp control to the max heat position so the valve opens up and any old coolant flows out and circulates with the rest of the fluid. Keep the valve open when draining the fluid. Replace the coolant as you would normally.

Is it this way? I was of the thought that the coolant always flows through the heater core irrespective of the knob position and what the knob changes is the hot air/cold air mixture.

Of course, removal of the heater core is a tedious task. What I can think of is to remove the hoses routing to the heater from the engine bay and send low pressurised air to remove the old coolant.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by audioholic

Is it this way? I was of the thought that the coolant always flows through the heater core irrespective of the knob position and what the knob changes is the hot air/cold air mixture.

There is usually a valve connected to the hot/cold knob that regulates the flow of coolant into the heater core. its off at cold and fully on at hot.

I had this valve fail on my palio and I used to get hot air coming in all the time. Even with AC on, it felt like I had warm air blowing over me all the time.

The part on the palio is aptly named

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

There is usually a valve connected to the hot/cold knob that regulates the flow of coolant into the heater core. its off at cold and fully on at hot.
I had this valve fail on my palio and I used to get hot air coming in all the time. Even with AC on, it felt like I had warm air blowing over me all the time.

The part on the palio is aptly named

Attachment 1690789

Maybe its a Fiat system. In my car its simple. The heat cold knob has a cable that links to a baffle and a shutter that controls the amount of hot air or cold air that is mixed. The heater core is always hot with continuous coolant flow.