[JRD]

Originally Posted by GTO

my OHC Vtec is well over 70,000 kms and still running the original clutch.

My 12 year old OHC is also running the original clutch at 120000kms.

Originally Posted by GTO

Under normal driving style & conditions, an OEM clutch should last anywhere between 70,000 - 90,000 kms.

Agreed. most of our cars get a new clutch at around 65k to 70k. (Corolla just got a new clutch at 76k)

I think as long as there are no difficulties in shifting, enough play (as in from engaging and disengaging the clutch) and one is fine with the heavy feel of an older clutch, there is no real need for a clutch overall.

Dealerships have a tendency at exaggerating the condition of mechanicals like clutch, brakes and suspension.

[sudharma]

Originally Posted by .anshuman

Not every Clutch replacement job is a con job. There are some genuine issues as well.

Jerking or shuddering when you release the clutch is sure indication of clutch trouble. Cause could be wornout clutch plate, broken / worn out diaphragm spring plate elements, play in the gearbox input splined shaft, worn out / damaged clutch release bearing and also a leaking gear box shaft seal spraying oil on to the clutch plate.
I had all these problems seperately at different intervels during the past 23 years on my Maruthi 800.

[.anshuman]

I got my Elantra's Clutch assembly changed at 60K kms when the clutch became painfully hard due to worn out pressure plates, upon opening i was told clutch was almost gone and flywheel had scratches(causing Judder just before turbo kick in) too, i did not want a burnt clutch in midst of a traffic jam so got the whole assembly changed.

Total cost including labour and tax for Clutch plate+ Pressure plate + Flywheel+ Clutch release bearing = ~15k Rupees.

Cost is similar for the cheaper Verna CRDi and much more expensive Sonata CRDi.

[honeybee]

On my earlier M800, I too replaced the clutch after about 60K, when the service centre guy told me it needed replacement. It wasn't slipping though.

One of my colleagues had bought a Swift and he managed to fry his clutch within the first 2K run itself. He was unable to drive the car out of the office parking lot (which is two levels below basement). I wanted to see the problem for myself, because I had never heard of it then. I rode with him in the car and on the incline, as soon as he shifted into gear, the car simply refused to move ahead. The engine kept running and spinning but the wheels didn't turn an inch. He had to put on the brakes immediately to prevent the car from rolling backwards, and then slowly back the car down the ramp. We pushed it to a corner and left it there overnight.

He did admit he abused the clutch often.

[Ninja 1]

I changed the clutch of my accent at 97K. It fully burnt out and the bill was 15 K.

[honeybee]

Originally Posted by Ninja 1

I changed the clutch of my accent at 97K. It fully burnt out and the bill was 15 K.

And you are frustrated ?? Aren't you happy it served you well till almost the 100,000 mark?

[SirAlec]

Originally Posted by honeybee

On my earlier M800, I too replaced the clutch after about 60K, when the service centre guy told me it needed replacement. It wasn't slipping though.

One of my colleagues had bought a Swift and he managed to fry his clutch within the first 2K run itself. He was unable to drive the car out of the office parking lot (which is two levels below basement). I wanted to see the problem for myself, because I had never heard of it then. I rode with him in the car and on the incline, as soon as he shifted into gear, the car simply refused to move ahead. The engine kept running and spinning but the wheels didn't turn an inch. He had to put on the brakes immediately to prevent the car from rolling backwards, and then slowly back the car down the ramp. We pushed it to a corner and left it there overnight.

He did admit he abused the clutch often.

800's clutch to go away at 60k is normal.

but clutch giving up at 2000kms is unheard of on a front wheel drive car. which ever he may have abused it.

[honeybee]

Originally Posted by SirAlec

800's clutch to go away at 60k is normal.

but clutch giving up at 2000kms is unheard of on a front wheel drive car. which ever he may have abused it.

But it wasn't slipping in any way, I had just been experiencing some morning shudders. So I am wondering if I too was made to change it much before its useful life.

[SirAlec]

There is a simple desi way of testing clutch using hand brake.

Its mentioned on many occasion in tbhp.

[honeybee]

Originally Posted by SirAlec

There is a simple desi way of testing clutch using hand brake.

Its mentioned on many occasion in tbhp.

True, but then I wasn't a member of the Team BHP forums at the time

[VANOS]

hi guys,

if a clutch get's hard it may be because of many reasons, if it's a cable get it lubed or replaced, if it's hydraulic bleed it, if it does not work, check the master and slave cylinder after which u have no option but to change the cover assembly, as the fingers in the cover assembly bend over time. while at it, it's easy to change the plate and release bearing as well, a one time fix. also note, don't let the clutch slip for too long as the rivets in the plate will damage your flywheel which will increase your cost of a replacement. in case you opt for racing clutch plate cover assy expect it to be a lot more harder than your std clutch. one last piece of advice. get the assy from a reputed brand TRW, RENE etc, as it'll serve u better.

[cnaganathan]

I wish I had seen this thread earlier. I had been complaining about the feel of my Indigo XL DICOR's clutch from the beginning. Pressure plate and release bearing were changed (as claimed by TASS) at 8k kms FOC within 4 months of purchase. I was still not happy with the feel and kept complaining. recently at 23k km, while backing out of a shallow ditch I could smell the clutch frying. Thereafter there was a perceptible drop in pickup. This time TASS agreed to change the entire clutch assy with the flywheel getting skimmed. I have done 1k kms after that and all of a sudden now the car shudders heavily in 5th gear. Dunno what to do

[harit]

This clutch business is not the only con one can come across a service station. I do not know if this has been discussed before, if yes then this post may be shifted to the correct place and I could continue from there.
It is worth remembering that many dealerships, particularly for premium vehicles, also have targets on the amount of spares sold. So they have to, well push.
They get away with this because in the average scenario, the car is driven by a driver, he says saab, xyz kharab hai, he takes the car to the srvice center, estimate is faxed, no one to check, estimate is passed and bill is paid. The problem arises when the car is with someone who takes personal interest. We have a Merc company maintained, I gave it to a workshop to check brakes and do a general service. I got an estimate of 2Lacs, after cutting down all the useless stuff I ended up with around 14K. When questioned, then they said that they added all the items which THEY thought should be attended to. Some was needless, some was unneccesary but nothing was life threatening. A company would in all likelyhood have accepted the estimate. Afterall, who has the time or inclination to go deeper into such matters.
Another favourite ploy besides the clutch, in Mercedes, is the wiper blade and something they call spring wash. They just love to change and bill these. This came to my notice when one dealership closed and another opened. At that time the service records were not linked online, so two service stations billed me for both these items within 3 months, not having access to the past records.

Unfortunately these things cannot be avoided. One should make friends with the service advisor, take personal interest, and one will learn in this way. Also, take the old spares with you, you will see that atleast something was changed, and hopefully in your car. But all of us do not have time to devote to one's car service.

I had to change tyres on my Merc, and got minor suspension work done. I decided to buy tyres from the dealer, was given an estimate. I shopped outside, gave them a counter offer, well they reduced their price to me. My thought was that when they fit new tyres, did minor suspension work(I remember that a bush was chnged) and did the alignment, then they are responsible for this job. Well, alignment was out, I went back the next day and they again charged for the alignment. No arguements were entertained. In the end, it was their loss. Sometime I took a quotation for complete suspension, estimate given was for 2L, I gave it to Four seasons, they did for arounf 25K with all labour and I bought parts worth around 18K. Shoxs did not need to be changed. This was done about 3 years ago, I am still very happy with the work.

Last comment, scams do not need to restricted to the clutch

[supercars]

I wanted to know about the Clutch Problem too.

I recently got the Pedals out of the car & freed them by changing a Bush & fixing New Return Springs.

What I want to know is that the Mechanic is saying is that the car has a Clutch Problem & it is going to be impossible to source parts. The Car only shudders in Second & Third Gear.

Do you think the Mechanic when he took out the pedals, has made a mistake in reassembling them ? I had to take out the Pedals & get them repaired as the Brake & Clutch Pedal were getting depressed together when one pedal is pressed.

[honeybee]

I guess the best option is to question and understand each and every repair that the service centre proposes to carry out. Of course, you should not give any impression of doubting their intentions. As a customer you have the right to ask questions and understand what needs to be changed, why and how much will it cost. Also what if you don't change it right now.

Once you start querying everything, the next time they won't try to perform unnecessary repairs.