[longhorn]

Originally Posted by Added_flavor

Total cost for head gasket + head machining (If required)+ oil cooler + Consumables + labor is coming up to 30k (Estimate).

I am made to understand that Hyundai is paying 25% and Trident is paying 25% of the cost (Minus the consumables, which is on me). So I've been told that my expenditure might come up to 15-20K.

There was coolant leakage in one of the hoses attached to the oil cooler, which resulted in high engine temperatures and consequent 'weakening' of head gasket, which has to be replaced now.

There was no mixing of the engine oil and coolant, but SA advised me to change the engine oil also during repair as a precautionary measure.

Doesn't this mean that there was improper diagnosis/ shoddy work on the part of Trident when you reported the problem during the 40k service (cut hose ?), for which they are doing you a 'favour' by picking up 50 % of the tab for which they are responsible in totality? Or am I mising out on something.

[Added_flavor]

Originally Posted by Added_flavor

The other possibility is negligence during service and coolant wasn't topped up. They, of course, are vehemently denying this. To support this, there was coolant leakage reported during the 30K service and the hose was changed. This is reflected in the service records also. However the coolant wasn't touched during the 43500 km service.

Originally Posted by longhorn

Doesn't this mean that there was improper diagnosis/ shoddy work on the part of Trident when you reported the problem during the 40k service (cut hose ?), for which they are doing you a 'favour' by picking up 50 % of the tab for which they are responsible in totality? Or am I mising out on something.

Hi Longhorn! As quoted above,

1. The hose was changed at 30K service
2. It was a radiator hose and not the current one.

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Sorry AlphaKilo, I didn't notice your post. Hence could not reply previously.

Originally Posted by AlphaKilo

Is it just Achal motors who is brushing things under the carpet or is even TML involved in this mess up?

I am fed up of Service from Achal Automobiles Pvt Ltd. Solapur as well as the Response received from Tata Motors Ltd. In fact Now I have Decided NOT TO BUY any Vehicle from Tata Motors Ltd However Enticing the Vehicle May Be.

Originally Posted by AlphaKilo

Well, if they had forgotten to do smaller things like filling A/C gas, I guess, as a normal human being you would accept it, if they apologize for oversight and do the filling for you, isn't it?

Yes I would have calmed down on the AC Issue if they had filled AC Gas for FREE after I reported the problem.

Originally Posted by AlphaKilo

I do accept that with lots of vehicles in for service, it could become a serious headache and overload for the service team to track and complete every task. (Its altogether a different issue that then why is there something called as "Service manual", job card and so on!). How hard is it to just accept the fault and ask for apology and do the job correctly and completely the next time?
If this continues, they might even forget to fill the coolant and still you charge you for the same and yet say you were at fault if something wrong happens!

As I have already mentioned in my previous posts that the mechanic did not report about the spares replaced to the SA (The SA enquired at the stores in front of me about which parts were replaced. Many of the unnecessary parts (See the Chart enclosed in my previous posts) were replaced without informing me leave alone my approval).
For Information of All, I would like to mention that now I have fitted Alternator Belt "730 5PK" (on advice of local mechanic) instead of "740 5PK" which the Achal Automobiles fitted at the time of repair in Aug 2012. I think the 730 is shorter in length than 740.

Lets us how long does this Belt hold its breath.

Originally Posted by AlphaKilo

Do keep us updated on the status and wishing your car a speedy recovery!

Again some of the Wiring was burnt.
Details--
On last Friday i.e. 28-12-2012, in the evening while I was returning home from office, the car suddenly Switched Off with All the Tell-Tale Signs on the Dashboard Off also (The Key was in the START Position). I tried to start the car but only the engine was cranking but was not starting. Then I checked the Fuse Box below the Steering Wheel. I noticed that the "INSTR. CLUST + EMS ECU IGN. 10A" had blown. I took 10A fuse from adjoining slot and fitted it in the previous blown slot. When I turned the key to START position I heard some khat sound from under the Steering Wheel. I checked the above fuse and alas! again the fuse was blown. Then I called my known electrician who showed me that some wire under the Air Filter Box had got cut and the exposed part of wire was touching the Battery Bracket which in turn was not allowing the ECU to start the car (I guess).
I told him to check the complete Wiring under the Bonnet. Some of the wires were stuck to each other. He used new wire in place of those stuck wires.


Today got a RPAD from Pandit Automotive Sangli Pvt. Ltd.
After opening the envelope, there was a Cheque of Rs. 3933/- in my name.
Then I remembered that it is the refund for the Fuel Sedimentor (The sensor of previous Good Fuel Sedimentor was broken by Achal Automobiles) and the Oil Pump Gasket (which was charged twice in the bill).
The copy of Cheque and the Envelope are as below--



I had asked for a refund of Rs.13000/-+ but got only Rs.3933/-
Shame on you Tata Motors Ltd.
THANK YOU GOD FOR DROPPING THE SALES OF TATA MOTORS LTD. (I read in Autocar India Jan 2013 that the Sales of Tata Motors Ltd. dropped by around 34 percent).

I PRAY TO GOD THAT TATA MOTORS LTD. SHOULD GET BANKRUPTED AT THE EARLIEST. "TATHAASTU."

[Added_flavor]

^^ I'm sorry but I don't know what to say! I completely understand your frustration there.

Well, I am also hijacking here as I'm ranting about my car too.

UPDATE:

Went to Hyundai today to understand what exactly is the reason for coolant leakage and also to look at the parts as suggested by anandpadhye.

I returned with anxiety and was wondering if I can trust my car anymore, as I found the reason for leakage is corrosion in the oil cooler. I have taken pictures of the rust and am posting them here. When asked how a 3 year old regularly used car can develop rust in a critical component, the SA just had a clueless smile on his face!

I need help and answers from you experts.

Is this acceptable? What's the guarantee that other parts also haven't developed rust?
Isn't engine lackering done to prevent this?
How will this impact the resale value of the car as any prospective buyer will look into the service records?
Should I enter into a conversation with Hyundai on this and question the part quality here? (I feel this is not over reaction as the turbo was replaced under warranty and now this!)
Should I contemplate selling off this vehicle?

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Added_Flavor, I would suggest you get the car repaired out of HASS and get rid of the car and buy another good car.
I am too thinking of getting rid of our car but waiting for right (?) time. Personal reason.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by Added_flavor

idling the vehicle on a cold start, idling while turning the engine off etc.

I don't see any point in doing this unless you tax the car and drive each time. Idling a engine is a waste of time and fuel. Driving away as soon as a you start the car is a faster way to bring the engine up to operating temperature. Just don't be hard on the throttle till the time the engine temperature level gets to the regular position which is usually in the middle for most cars. The idling procedure before shut down is also not required as it is very rare that the car is traveling at a very high speed and is immediately shut down. It takes me a good minute from the time I enter my apartment gate and position my car in the parking slot. In this time, the engine is just a couple of 100 rpm over the idling. This is more than enough time for the engine to catch its breath (Thats if I was gunning it) and even for the turbo charger to spin down. I would idle the car before a shut down if I suddenly pulled over on a highway drive. Not otherwise.

As for your engine heating issue, I faced something similar but have now clearly understood where the coolant goes even when there is no leak at all. The car was a Ford Ikon and I had taken the car to get a stock air box installed as the K&N conical air filter was giving me nightmares each time I used to get the engine bay washed. Fixing a new air box required them to remove one of the headlamp assembly for better access and somewhere in the process, the removal of a nut that grounds the radiator fan on the car body. This grounding wire was not put back after the work was done. After the air box was fixed, I went home, which is a short drive from the Ford service station. Not enough to get the radiator fan spinning. I did not use the AC too. Later in the day, I had to step out for some shopping with my wife. We left home and I had the AC going from start. It cooled alright for a few km and then started acting up. I was getting hot air through the vent which is when I feared that the radiator fan has now died. This was scary for me as the bloody thing costs a bomb for the Ikon. At this point I am clueless about the possibility of the grounding wire not put back. All I know is the AC is not working and so I turned it off and we continued driving. In just a couple of km of driving I started to notice the engine temperature rising too and it was getting closer to danger so I pulled over and popped the hood. At this point, I am just outside the Shivajinagar Bus station. I was parked in the middle of this busy area with the bonnet open for inspection. I found no leak and the coolant was intact. I lot of heat was radiating off the engine. Kept the hood open for a short while so the engine could cool down. As we had to shop on Commercial Street, we had originally planned to park the car at the parking facility at Shivajinagar station. Instead of wasting time parked in the hot sun I decided to start the car and park it and the distance to the parking was just 100 meters. We could go about the work and this would give the engine a good half an hour to cool down so I restarted the car, the temperature had not dropped on the gauge. Proceeded to the car park and the temperature started climbing almost immediately and it had hit the start of the 'H' mark. I was panicking and as the attendant was guiding me into a slot, I noticed steam on the drivers side of the windshield and immediately switched off the car. The parking attendant understood the situation and allowed me to leave the car where it was to cool down. On getting out of the car I noticed a little coolant under the car. I popped the hood and there was still a lot of coolant in the tank. We left the car to cool down and went ahead with our shopping. While we were out I made some calls to Ford to inform them about this. I was directed to St. Mark road as it was closest. They offered a tow truck which I refused as I knew I could baby the car to the service station by keeping an eye on the temperature gauge. We got back to the parking and the engine had cooled down sufficiently. I started to car, turned on the ac which also spins up the radiator fan and asked my wife to check if the fan was working. It was not spinning. I was very worried now but also understood the cause of the over heating. The pressure built in the over heating engine can push coolant out of the coolant tank cap even though it was a sealed unit and had no leak. None of the related hoses were leaking too. The little coolant that leaked was through the coolant tank cap. The cap was not defective in any way. I drove the car to St Marks Road and managed to keep the engine temperature in check without any further over heating. I kept shutting down the engine at every traffic light or if traffic was not moving. After reaching St Marks road, they inspected the radiator fan and figured that it had not seized. Further inspection revealed the grounding wire for the radiator fan that was not connected. They connected the grounding wire and fan worked. I was relieved as replacing the fan would have set me back by 7K. The mechanic at Ford in Lingarajapuram had forgotten to re connect the ground terminal when the new air box was installed. Now who's fault is this? Had I been less attentive to what was happening, the entire engine block would have seized and this would cost me a bomb to fix. Ford could not care less just because one of their authorized garages screwed up. If your car has a temperature gauge, please keep an eye on it. I also make it a habit to check the engine bay before I set out for a drive. This does not rule out a possible problem that can happen later into the drive, it just gives you a little re assurance that all appears okay under the hood before you set out for a long drive.

[Added_flavor]

UPDATE:

As I said in my earlier post, the leakage was through the outlet of the oil cooler due to corrosion. I have attached the pictures of the corroded part here. Although the HASS did not have an answer for why a critical engine component got corroded in 3 years, I felt they gave me a fair deal at the end of the day. I say this as my extended warranty had expired about 10 days before the problem occurred.

The cost sharing was like this:

25% Hyundai + 25% Trident (Goodwill) + 50% Customer. Of course the consumables (read Coolant and engine oil) would have to be borne by customer.

Parts Replaced:

1. The complete head gasket kit.
2. Oil cooler and respective hoses.
3. Consumables

Parts Checked or repaired:

The head and the block were sent to the machine shop to check for deformation. The head did have deformation owing to high engine temperatures. The block (flatness) was checked as a precautionary measure.

My Rating of the overall experience.

Likes:
1. The overall cost sharing deal was quite reasonable.
2. The happenings were transparent. The SA was patient, courteous and kept me updated about the issue and the way it was dealt with.
3. I was given a free service (Swirl removal by 3M personnel and wash) when the car was given back, even when I did not ask for it. SA felt the car was dirty as it was in the HASS for 18 days.

Dislikes:
1. Obviously, corrosion on a critical (and expensive) component in 3rd year of ownership is an indicator of inferior part quality.
2. The repair took a lot of time - holiday season and consequent delay in warranty approval to be blamed.
3. Of course, the 18K I had to shell out

Now, I am insecure of the overall reliability and quality of the vehicle. I am not exaggerating as the turbo was replaced under warranty at 38K and now this.

Can the rust spread to other parts of the engine? If yes, any way to curb it? Comments, suggestions are welcome.

Sorry for back to back posts. Forgot to add the photos. Mods please merge the posts.