[nilanjanray]

The faithful and reliable classic Fortuner MT 4WD...aka The Bison


Around summer, I start craving for my tiger fix. It is a yearly craving, which needs to be satisfied at least once every year. I had about 7 days to spare. I looked at a few options - Corbett (clubbing my trip with official work in Gurgaon), Ranthambore (tagging along with a photo tour), Bandhavgarh etc. Finally narrowed down on Kanha and Tadoba. Kanha, because safaris were still available, and Kanha is beautiful even without the tigers. Tadoba, because I like going there at least once every year.

Trip itinerary:
Day 1: Bangalore to Rukhad. ~ 1214 kms.
Day 2, 3, 4, 5, 6: Kanha
Day 7: Kanha to Tadoba; evening safari
Day 8: Tadoba
Day 9: Tadoba to Bangalore after the morning safari. Some 1100+ kms.
Overall, ~ 3000 kms.

Vehicle prep
The tyres had done ~ 68K, and I was facing repeated punctures, so it was time to change them. FYI, the Dunlops took me through some horrible terrain all across India. But after 60,000 km they started throwing tantrums. I believe that after a certain point, the degradation is not linear, but sudden. After some research I opted for the Pirelli Scorpion ATRs. Finished the 70K servicing, and changed the battery (preventive replacement - it had lasted 3.5 years) and one wiper blade.

Drive preparation
Bought water, bananas, biscuits, a few packects of juices, and a bar of dark chocolate. Earlier, I used to buy dry fruits, Red Bulls etc ., but since then I have realized that plenty of hydration and fruits are better for me during summer.

A short photo break (I had shared some of the photos on other threads and on Facebook):
-----------------
A young tigress in Mukki, Kanha. We roamed around whole afternoon without even hearing any alarm calls. Then when we were going out, we saw this lovely lady.


Eary morning, Kanha. Sunlight filters down through the trees. The Gypsy has stopped because Cheetals are giving their alarm calls.


B&W portrait of a tigress


Young Barasingha deers cross a Kanha forest road


Approaching tigress, Kanha meadows


Vulnerability. Affection. Motherhood. Langur expressions and behaviour are often like that of humans.


Closeup of a Tadoba tigress.


Light and shadow


Flexibility.
This was shot outside the Kisli Tourist Hostel in Kanha, where I was staying. The light is warm and nice, because the langurs were beneath a canopy of Sal trees.


The sun sets in Kanha as vehicles return from the evening safari

----------
Bangalore - Rukhad - Kanha

I had kept the bags packed the night before the drive. I was supposed to wake up at 4 AM and be out by 4.30. But snoozing led to one hour delay. I was finally out of the house at 5:30 AM. I had a 1200km drive ahead, but decided to take it easy. I needed to reach Kanha around noon the next day. There were no other deadlines.

Crossed Bangalore airport by 6:30, while keeping below the speed limits. Then started cruising, maintaining a stead speed. There was more traffic on NH7 than I had expected. Had 'breakfast' while driving - juice, bananas, biscuits, some chocolate. Reached Hyderabad after noon. I took it easy on the Hyderabad ORR since I realized that I was getting 1-1.5km less mileage on the Pirellis, compared to the old Dunlops. The 'lower than ideal' tyre pressure was also to blame - I had kept 30.5-31 PSI instead of 32PSI.

Portrait of a tigress. Kanha


The jackal - shot while testing the camera before the first safari


I decided not to stop for lunch, but finish all the food items I had bought. Got down after every 2-2.5 hours, to stretch a bit. I was drinking a lot of water, and I needed to stop frequently in any case. The temperature forecast for Nagpur/Chandrapur wasn't encouraging - it was around 44 degrees, and in the next few days Chandrapur was supposed to reach 48 degrees. Kept the AC at 22 degrees, with internal circulation (I would roll down the windows for a few seconds every hour, to let fresh air in). The drive wasn't very uncomfortable, given the heat outside. In any case, I needed to get used to the heat - I would be out in the sun for 8 hours every day, for the next few days.

Sense of wonder


Before crossing Adilabad, I called up MPTDC Rukhad, and booked a room. The AP-MH border stretch was bad as usual. But not as bad as last year, when I had crossed the stretch after monsoons, in the night, when it was raining. In spite of cruising sedately (relatively speaking), I reached Nagpur bypass around 7 pm. It started raining a bit. I had mixed feelings about the rain. It would bring down the temperature a bit. But I was more worried about the impact on animal sightings. Anyway, the rain stopped after a while. When I was going through a narrow railway crossing (it was dark, and it was drizzling), a bike - coming from the other side - skidded on the tracks and fell right in front of me. My speed was slow, so I was able to stop + swerve in time.

A walk in the woods


The drive through Pench was nice. I rolled down the windows from time to time, to enjoy the smell of the forest after the rains. I was hoping to come across a cat or two (perhaps out to mark their territory after the rain), but they didn't oblige.

Reached Rukhad a little after 9 pm. The MPTDC tourist lodge is in the middle of a forest stretch, and given that the room was economical, it was ideal for a stopover. The food was pretty good - I recommend the place for a breakfast or night halt. The manager was surprised seeing a Karnataka vehicle, and hearing that I drove from Bangalore. Met a local guy, who told me that it was possible to take my vehicle inside the forest for a safari. Good. If I didn't feel tired, and could wake up before 6, then inside the forest I would go.

Sambar in golden light


Young tigress


The room was ok. Didn't have an AC, but the cooler was functioning. When I am traveling alone, I am not very fussy, and can put up with some frogs, insects etc. inside the room - as long as they don't climb on the bed. I sat outside in the balcony, trying to listen to the forest sounds (I had heard that some animals come inside once in a while), but the cooler was too loud. So I went to bed around 11.30 or so. I had driven 1214 km today, but it had been a relaxing drive. Last time I had driven throughout the night to reach Nagpur, and I had felt a lot more tired the next day.

Spooky forest


Honey buzzard about to land on the shore. Tadoba.


I managed to wake up and get ready by 6. Went to the forest entry gate, which was a few hundred metres from the resort. There was no one there. Inquired with a forest guard, and then went to a shack nearby and woke up a guide. Told him to get the necessary permission for forest entry. I had to pay double the charge than that of a local vehicle , for taking my own vehicle inside. But couldn't resist the allure of driving within the forest.
Once the guide finished the paperwork, we went inside the forest. The trail was doable in almost any vehicle. After a while, we reached a small lake. The guide said that tigers had been sighted there the previous week. I told him that instead of driving around, why don't we wait near the lake. That is what we did, for more than an hour.

The warm light beneath the Sal trees


Hesitant


We sat down behind some bushes, so that were not directly visible from the lake. But I did have an open line of sight for the camera. A few green pigeons and peacocks came down to drink. Followed by a herd of Cheetal, and then some Gaurs. Clicked a huge bird from far away - it was sitting somewhere, and swooped towards the lake and went away fast. I had been daydreaming, and could only take a couple of record shots before it vanished.

I got back to the resort around 9:30AM. Had a nice shower, and headed out around 10:30. No breakfast. Had a few chocolate pieces left - that and water would have to suffice. The road condition was better than I expected (about 10x better than what it usually is after the monsoons), so I reached the Seoni turning pretty fast. Took the help of Google Maps to bypass Seoni and head towards Nainpur. There were a few sudden dips in the road. MP state roads can lull you into a sense of complacency. Straight road, fantastic surface quality. Then suddenly an acute angle turn - and you narrowly escape falling into a valley. Or 3-4 inescapable potholes on a fantastic stretch. Or sudden dips filled with broken rocks and water.

After Nainpur, stretches of Sal forests began. I have a soft corner for Sal trees - when in school, I used to go camping in the forests of Bihar and Orissa, in the Chhotonagpur Plateau. I reached Khatia gate a little after noon, and then, after entering my details, went inside the core area. If you are staying at Bagheera Lodge or the Kisli Tourist Lodge, you can go inside anytime during the day. I was staying at Kisli Tourist Lodge (decided to stay at a dorm after many years - the first time after school/college days). I had a tight budget for this trip, and as long as I could stay inside the forest, I was ready to put up with some discomfort. If the cooler was working, and water was available 24 hours, then I was happy.

Well, the cooler wasn't very effective, but the shower was. Had a quick veg lunch (part of the daily package), and got ready for the first safari. Suncreen, hat, sunglass (since I wear contacts), a water bottle, a plastic packet that would protect the camera + lens from dust, camera settings checked and tested (on a jackal that was running along the road in front of the lodge - maybe 100m away).

[SajiNSalin]

Nilanjan,

It is good to read the start of yet another tiger travelog from you. Eagerly waiting for the rest of the tale. You seem to attract tigers and they pose for you like for nobody else except perhaps coolcat.

Had been to Tadoba in April and could see only one tigress on the fourth safari. But that was a close encounter and something we will not forget.

Do come on with the remaining part of the trip.

[nilanjanray]

Originally Posted by SajiNSalin

Nilanjan,

It is good to read the start of yet another tiger travelog from you. Eagerly waiting for the rest of the tale. You seem to attract tigers and they pose for you like for nobody else except perhaps coolcat.

Had been to Tadoba in April and could see only one tigress on the fourth safari. But that was a close encounter and something we will not forget.

Do come on with the remaining part of the trip.

Well, I usually have tigresses pose for me, not tigers. I get looks like this:



But I too have mixed luck. Last year I did 8 safaris in Tadoba, but at the wrong time - just after the monsoons. I saw tigers only during the last two safaris. This year, overall, I think I had encounters 50% of the time.

Did you put up a travelogue or photos?

Mods: thanks for moving this back to the travelogues section.

[GTO]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!

[Hayek]

Amazing start to the travelogue. We went to Kanha in the winter of 2012, and saw our fair share of tigers (5 sightings across 4 safaris).I thought my pictures were good, but your are truly amazing.

[Ahmed]

Needless to say I am a big time fan of yours Mr. Snapper. Its even awesome that you find out time to drive Bison on terrains it deserves. Hats off ! Please update us on how the Scorpions are behaving after this drive.

[drmohitg]

In plain words, just WOW. Absolutely astonishing photos. Eagerly waiting to read the rest of it.

[nilanjanray]

Originally Posted by Hayek

Amazing start to the travelogue. We went to Kanha in the winter of 2012, and saw our fair share of tigers (5 sightings across 4 safaris).I thought my pictures were good, but your are truly amazing.

Thank you. I hope to visit Kanha in winter - the landscape would be amazing with the warm winter sunlight and the fog. Tiger sightings might not be that good. You were pretty lucky!

Originally Posted by Ahmed

Needless to say I am a big time fan of yours Mr. Snapper. Its even awesome that you find out time to drive Bison on terrains it deserves. Hats off ! Please update us on how the Scorpions are behaving after this drive.

Thanks

The Pirellis performed fine during the trip, but after coming back I had a puncture. Since then they have been ok. The jury is still out.

Originally Posted by drmohitg

In plain words, just WOW. Absolutely astonishing photos. Eagerly waiting to read the rest of it.

Thanks. Continuing below:

A few photos from that morning in Rukhad (Pench-Kanha wildlife corridor):

A rocket-tailed drongo


Deers make a visit


I had mentioned about this hige bird earlier. This is a cropped photo, I was unable to take a proper shot of it since I was unprepared. Can anyone id this bird? Vulture (likely) or eagle?


Green pigeons


Kanha

My first safari was in Mukki zone. We had to pass the familiar Kisli gate of Kanha. Familiar for me - I had been here in 2011. Went pass that famous tree of Kanha, where 3-4 owls were always visible. This time, there were no owls. I asked the guide, who said that the owls have moved somewhere else. Pity. I had been looking forward to click them.

It took a while to get used to the burning sun. Encountered a few herbivores - Cheetals, a few Sambars, an alpha Gaur. The forest seemed dead otherwise. No alarm calls. No fresh tracks. And not even a hint of breeze. Dust, sweat, and burning sunlight.

At Mukki, we stopped near a pond, which was supposed to be a favourite drinking spot of Panthera tigris tigris. No tiger. But I saw an interesting sight - a peacock, a heron and a Changeable Hawk Eagle hissing at each other, before going down to drink from the pond. I have heard of Serpent Eagles killing peacocks, I guess the Hawk Eagles are too weak to be a threat.

3 hours went by. First safari is always the toughest , especially when you are facing the heat and sun for the first time in the trip. And don't have adrenaline helping you. Disheartened, we turned back towards the exit gate, which was some 20 kms away.

The Mukki tigress


Langurs playing on a Kanha track


A cheetal giving an alarm call. Wait for a 10 minutes. The deer stops calling. So you start driving again, more disheartened than before. Then, after making a turn, you see 3 vehicles that have stopped ahead. You use sign language to ask passengers of the nearest vehicle why they have stopped. Someone whispers 'tiger'. You can't hear him, but can lip read that word.

The Barasingha


So, apparently a tiger is sitting somewhere inside the bamboo grove to your left. I climb on the seats, and imagine I can see an ear. Maybe - but not worth taking a shot. Then a blur emerges from the bamboo grove, even before you can point the camera properly. Forget about changing the settings (the shutter speed should have been a lot higher to capture a charging tiger properly). A young tigress explodes out of the grove, pouncing on the monkeys that were playing on the ground. Unfortunately, she is unable to catch a single one. The monkeys have managed to scamper up safely. But they are so shocked that they are not even giving the alarm call.

Some playing around with pp to get this look


The tigress gives a disgusted look at the monkeys and then walks across towards a nearby waterhole. She sits near the waterhole for a while, looking up at the monkeys from time to time. I can read her expression - "Next time I will catch you!"

Next time I will catch you!


Then she walks up the forest track. We are already late, so we don't try to follow her. She marks her territory and then vanishes inside the undergrowth.

Late afternoon


Happy, sweaty, dusty faces. Sighting at the 11th hour. A close one too. Once in a while I do encounter people who are very excited to see a big cat from some distance. And then start panicking when the cat comes close. I didn't meet anyone like that this time in Kanha, but I remember a Bengali lady (sigh) who was all excited when she saw a tigress in Tadoba from a distance. She was berating her driver - why couldn't he take the vehicle closer?!!! The poor driver tried to explain that one can't really break the line and spook the tigress. Anyway, the tigress decided to head right towards this lady's vehicle (which was right behind my Gypsy). The change in attitude, and decrease in bravery, was inversely proportional to the distance of the tiger from her vehicle. Eventually, when the tigress passed 7 feet from her vehicle, the lady was hiding her face on her knees, with her hands covering her head. And softly moaning that she wanted to get away from there. I should mention that this particular tigress had killed and eaten a human a few months back. Leaving just one leg for cremation.

That look!


Kanha meadows


Anyway, one you get a nice sighting, you forget about the heat, the dust, the tiredness, the 1400+ km drive to get here. Once I finished the safari (and got dropped near the MPTDC canteen - the vehicle proceeded towards Khatia gate, which was 3 kms away), I quickly grabbed another quick shower while the rest of the occupants of the Tourist Lodge were still discussing the sighting and having snacks. Then took my camera and laptop, and headed towards Bagheera Tourist Lodge, which was a few hundred metres away. Their restaurant had a functioning AC, and nicely chilled barley derivatives. The best possible place (inside the forest) to go over the photos, charge the camera battery, and get ready for the next day.

Catwalk


Vulture in Kanha


After shortlisting some of the photos and charging my camera and phone, I drove down to Khatia gate. There were a few dhabas within a few hundred metres of the forest checkpost, so I selected one that looked to be popular, and had a nice meal of chicken and rice. Requested the forest guard to open the gate again, and drove back to Kisli Tourist Hostel. Saw a jackal in the dark - no leopards, sadly. Sat outside the room till midnight, listening to the sounds of the forest. Cheetal mating calls. Alarm calls coming from far away. The 'chuk chuk chhukkkar' of the nightjars. Scampering rabbits - playing around in the grass of the compound. Bats moving around. The shining stars and the milky way. And the irritating sound of the air cooler.

Early morning after sunrise


Wake up at 4:15 in the morning, to preempt the other guests and be ready before they wake up. Start the safari with high hopes. Kanha zone this time. A few Barasinghas, many herbivores, even a few vultures. Which made me pretty excited. But no big cats. Do a few rounds of the high probability paths. Still nothing. Come back disappointed and boiled. A quick shower, a quick nap. Light lunch, then again out for the afternoon safari in Kanha zone. A few shots of Kanhascape in golden light.

Heavy crop + noise reduction


But no tiger.

I drove 3 km to go out of the forest gate again, and had dinner outside (I like my non veg, and the ambiance of local dhabas). Then back to the lodge - after convincing the forest gate guard to raise the barrier - driving as slow as possible. A few boars crossed the road. Saw a jungle cat leap into the bush. Parked the vehicle outside the lodge, and sat on a chair enjoying the atmosphere. Was disappointed. Two safaris today, no cat sightings. Heard alarm calls from far away, but they died down. I had heard that tigers sometimes prowl around near the balcony. But I had no such luck, thought I waited till midnight.

Tigress. Shadow and golden grass


Note: when sitting on an open balcony, make sure that the room door is unlocked and that you can scoot inside if required. And that you carry a decent torch. And that you have sharp ears, and can understand some of the jungle sounds, While Kanha has no recent history of human - big cat conflict, it always helps to be careful. I would have been a lot more wary if I were in Tadoba or Bandhavgarh. Or in the Nilgiris for that matter. The other day (when I was in Masinagudi) a huge male e tusker came visiting around 11pm. I was sitting outside in an open balcony. Then I heard a snort, which told me that an elephant was closeby. I peered round the balcony wall, and saw a magnificent tusker come through the resort gates. I would have stood quietly, but my vehicle was parked 40-45 feet away from the elephant. So I had to stealthily go out and warn the resort guys in the main building. After much effort, the elephant moved away a little bit, so I could jump into the vehicle and park it closer to the main building.

Lonely lapwing


Fourth safari. I was getting used to the dormitory routine. Just get up before the others, so that you can have the bathroom and shower to yourself (I was having 4-5 showers a day to beat the heat). The Kisli gate opens, and the Gypsy goes inside the park. I can see a few Cheetals, and a couple of Gaurs nibbling at the grass. We reach the Kanha meadows. Hear alarm calls. Our driver and guide talk to another guide, who is quite a hero - all others look upto him. We decide to wait on a track. Then someone whispers 'TIGER!'. Yes, it is a strange combination of a whisper and an excited yelp. We look to the right. I can see a tigress, about 500-600m away. She has come out of the undergrowth, and is looking towards us. I silently pray that she will come my way. She does. She starts walking towards the vehicles.

P2/Maya, Tadoba, B&W


Kanha meadows


For the next two minutes, she walks straight towards us. We reverse a bit, and tell the vehicle in front to move ahead by a few metres, so that the tigress has some space to cross the road. She passes right in front of me. Then she goes into the long grass, and passes through a grove of Sal trees. I shoot a few more photos when she is passing through the Sal canopy.

Honey Buzzard


A quick breakfast at the Kanha Tourist Reception Centre, where the safari vehicles stop in the morning. The inner man is well fortified with the tiger sighting, and some hot coffee. We eventually go back to the tourist lodge. A few fellow travellers - who had become friends - are leaving Kanha today. I say goodbye to them, and then go out to check out the nearby forest rest house. As usual, it has a brilliant location, and grumpy bureaucratic officials who think that they are doing you a favour by allowing you to stay there for a day or two. After some thought, I decide against staying there.

Vulnerability


Indian Roller


My afternoon safari was in Sarhi zone. The initial stretches - passing through broken hills - are arid, and the landscape looks somewhat like Tadoba's. Once I cross the hills, I find the valleys and meadows a lot greener. I come across Barasinghas in golden light. Shoot a flying peacock, and a couple of deer fawns in great warm light. Alas (is that old English word used now anymore?). I don't have a single photo (well, I do have just one that I had protected) from this safari and from the next 3 in Kanha. When transferring files using View NX2, and trying to delete a single photo, I mistakenly selected ALL the photos from these safaris, and deleted them. Tried recovering through a few options. No luck. 4 safaris worth of photos gone down the drain.

Another portrait of the Mukki tigress. Had shared a B&W version earlier. These shots were taken at ISO 800-1600, handheld at 1/125-1/200.

[deepv]

Those are 'some' pics .. Nilanjan!!!
Keep them coming.

Looks like you have more such travelogues, will check up!

[trek]

Beautiuful pictures. Love the serenity experienced in the jungles.

Have been to Tadoba and early want to visit Kanha now.

Can you post a high resolution image of the 3rd picture from the top, would love to put it as a wallpaper on my desktop.

Thanks again.

[W.A.G.7]

Simply amazing photography there! The tiger portraits are just too good, thanks for sharing. The thrill of seeing a tiger; cannot be described in words, yet it is a greatly exciting feeling. This one brought back my memories of Tadoba in May 2012 and Kanha in May 2011. Looking forward for more pictures. This year I am going to Pench in December.

[iVento]

Nilanjan, nice writeup & great photos. I have been waiting for your next junglelogue.

I like the closeup photos. At the same time, also like to see more of those wide-angle shots that give us the real feel of the jungle (like the ones "Deers make a visit", "Early morning after sunrise")

[NKR]

[quote=nilanjanray;3548700]

1. The pictures and your sense of adventure are both amazing, way to go.

2. Wonderful tiger pictures. The color composition is a treat to watch. The photos of the birds too are very good. I have been trying to get a few myself , but no such results.

3. Since you have asked to identify the birds here we go:- The picture of the vulture that you posted belongs to the Red headed Vulture (Sarcogyps calvus/ Aegypius calvus) and the second one belongs to a Juvenile of the Red headed Vulture. The Owl is a Scops Owl, The pigeons are Yellow footed Green Pigeons. Drongo is the Racquet Tailed Drongo and the lapwing is the Red Wattled Lapwing. I am slightly confused about the Honey Buzzards? picture that you have posted. The tail striations correspond but the tarsus is misleading.Can you PM me with some photos so that I can be sure. This will also ensure that we talk only about Automobiles in the forum.

4. Wishing you great journeys ahead and keep posting great pictures.

[RGP]

Beautiful photographs. Thaks for sharing, Am looking forward to more.

[nilanjanray]

Originally Posted by deepv

Those are 'some' pics .. Nilanjan!!!
Keep them coming.

Looks like you have more such travelogues, will check up!

Thanks. Yes, I have a few. But a couple are still WIP

Originally Posted by trek

Beautiuful pictures. Love the serenity experienced in the jungles.

Have been to Tadoba and early want to visit Kanha now.

Thanks again.

Thanks. The jungles (or nature for that matter) offer balm for the soul.

Originally Posted by W.A.G.7

Simply amazing photography there! The tiger portraits are just too good, thanks for sharing. The thrill of seeing a tiger; cannot be described in words, yet it is a greatly exciting feeling. This one brought back my memories of Tadoba in May 2012 and Kanha in May 2011. Looking forward for more pictures. This year I am going to Pench in December.

Thanks. Pench should be interesting in winter.

Originally Posted by iVento

Nilanjan, nice writeup & great photos. I have been waiting for your next junglelogue.

I like the closeup photos. At the same time, also like to see more of those wide-angle shots that give us the real feel of the jungle (like the ones "Deers make a visit", "Early morning after sunrise")

Thank you. Will share a few more forestscapes.

[quote=NKR;3549204]

Originally Posted by nilanjanray

1. The pictures and your sense of adventure are both amazing, way to go.

2. Wonderful tiger pictures. The color composition is a treat to watch. The photos of the birds too are very good. I have been trying to get a few myself , but no such results.

3. Since you have asked to identify the birds here we go:- The picture of the vulture that you posted belongs to the Red headed Vulture (Sarcogyps calvus/ Aegypius calvus) and the second one belongs to a Juvenile of the Red headed Vulture. The Owl is a Scops Owl, The pigeons are Yellow footed Green Pigeons. Drongo is the Racquet Tailed Drongo and the lapwing is the Red Wattled Lapwing. I am slightly confused about the Honey Buzzards? picture that you have posted. The tail striations correspond but the tarsus is misleading.Can you PM me with some photos so that I can be sure. This will also ensure that we talk only about Automobiles in the forum.

4. Wishing you great journeys ahead and keep posting great pictures.

Thank you for the ids. And the corrections e.g. I used to think (never bothered Googling, since I am not a birder) that it was called a Rocket tailed Drongo. Now I know the correct name.

I did Google the Red-headed Vulture - seems it is critically endangered. So rarer than a tiger then!

Here is another photo of Yo Yo Honey Singh...let me know your thoughts regarding ID.

Originally Posted by RGP

Beautiful photographs. Thaks for sharing, Am looking forward to more.

Thanks. Working on processing some of the photos, will share.