[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves

Tanveer, this is a wonderful account of M.La. I didnt know its that tough, especially after two Bangy blokes did it in their gypsies and their pics looked quite do-able.

Nevertheless, very nice pics. Are you allowed to drive to the check point you mentioned that is 7 kms from M.La?? Having gone this far, I would love to visit the bravehearts who live there.

As per my understanding, M.La is the last place you can go. Anyways you can continue forward. If you are not supposed to go some place, they will send you back.
However if you do not find any checkpost, turn back before 32kms, or you aint coming back

[tsk1979]

Pangong lake is a cure for sore muscles, sore eyes and dust filled lungs.
But first we need to cure the rumbling tummies.
What better thing to have than Pangong Thali at the army run canteen.
Its 70rs, but then you get rice, pooris, raajma, sabji etc., etc.,

As we await our order(a team of docs from himachal is giving the army men tough time, and screaming for food), I chat up with the poor JCO who is the front manager.

I generally ask him about where he is from etc., etc.,
He asks me where I am from, and when I say "Ludhiana".
His ears stand up, his eyes light up, and a million watt smile powered by a million happydents dazzles.

"Same place as Dharminder!" those are is next words.
"Well Dharminder is from Sahnewal, a town 10kms away" I murmur, too shocked to react.

And so due to Dharminder our camaraderie deepens, and we chat more.
thaali comes and we eat.
MEanwhile from the window we look enviously at the army "influence" people taking boat rides.
My wife suggests, why not try our luck too.
And I go the officer, and ask him about boat ride.

Well its paid, and its only for army guests.
But I can be his guest , he will confirm with his senior.
The senior also agrees!

My jaw is open, wish has been granted, and we get the tickets.
Time to go boating in the Tso

Yipeeeeeeeeeeee

Coming up in the next installment ->

[14000rpm]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Pangong lake is a cure for sore muscles, sore eyes and dust filled lungs.

pic of the lake is stunning. waiting for your post on it.

[sudev]

WOW a boat ride at 15000+ feet!! Waiting for shots from the inside the lake. I was never this lucky. Some or the other VIP was there.

AND you are not using enough of claimed home laptop....this is perversion, leaving the thread with carrot dangling in front of us. SIGH!

[suman]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

My jaw is open, wish has been granted, and we get the tickets.
Time to go boating in the Tso

Yipeeeeeeeeeeee

Coming up in the next installment ->

Lucky bum! What else can I say

[tsk1979]

The boats used for joyrides are the slower shallow motorboats, as opposed to the slightly faster patrol boats with lights on top.
The Lake is 135kms in length, with 90kms being in china.
They have modern boats and submarines too. But then they have good roads on the other side too.

Anyways, the army officer in charge of the boat was also our guide and explained the history behind the lake

In 1962 was, we got whipped lift right and center. Chinese reached Karu, and they would have taken Leh town itself, but due to international pressure, they withdrew, but took 90kms of the lake.
International pressure also forced them to sign a treaty, which says, I will not whip Indians before 2010.
2010 is coming and chinese military has increased hanky panky.

So if you want to see Pangong with inner line permits instead of Visa, better go now.

Anyways, lets forget history, and enjoy boating.
From inside the lake it looks very different


This lake is saltwater. However thats not the reason for it being dead. The reason is unusually high calcium content. In the above peak you see the west bank, where a stream empties into the lake.
At that point, there is fish, which dies as it comes to the lake.
That explains the birds I think?

More pics


Me in the boat


Some more lake pics






After a few minutes the very very enjoyble boat ride came to an end...

Shore pics. Those boats with lights on top are patrol boats




CONT..........

[deky]

Tanveer, I have been reading your travelogue and was keeping the appreciation till the end. But since you mentioned that there still is a long way to go before it finishes I must repeat that its a wonderfully compiled trip log with beautifull beautifull photos. Anyways any amount of appreciation for the effort gone in compiling this for us will be less.

Things definately have changed over the last 20 years when we visited Pangog tso, but the boats are the same. Here are pics of us, 20 years back in the same boat body hopefully with a better engines.

Also did you guys visit the Garnet hill at the lake end where the boats are parked and collect the Garnet stones that are in abundance there?

Sorry abt posting them in your travelogue, they can be deleted if you want.

[sudev]

And the young one is you Deky?
Yep it seems that not much has changed. Twenty years back road would have been even more of a challenge and vehicle would have been Jonga/Mahindra/1Tonner.

[Indizen08]

Awesome. The lake pics are absolutely magnificent. And the story behind the Chinese intrusions is bone-chilling.

[Joy]

Gimme more. Still Thirsty.

Have you used filter in all your day shots?

Wonderful.

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by deky

Tanveer, I have been reading your travelogue and was keeping the appreciation till the end. But since you mentioned that there still is a long way to go before it finishes I must repeat that its a wonderfully compiled trip log with beautifull beautifull photos. Anyways any amount of appreciation for the effort gone in compiling this for us will be less.

Things definately have changed over the last 20 years when we visited Pangog tso, but the boats are the same. Here are pics of us, 20 years back in the same boat body hopefully with a better engines.

Also did you guys visit the Garnet hill at the lake end where the boats are parked and collect the Garnet stones that are in abundance there?

Sorry abt posting them in your travelogue, they can be deleted if you want.

No need to delete them. Its awesome seeing nothing changes in so many years. These boats are like ambassador. Same body new engine!
As for garnets, we went garnet searching, and found some, but weren't sure about are they real or not. I am sure 20 years back they were much more abundant than they are now.
I got a couple home I think. But must have misplaced them!

Originally Posted by Joy

Gimme more. Still Thirsty.

Have you used filter in all your day shots?

Wonderful.

I use a polarizer in the day

[tsk1979]

Pangong!
Now, its another thing to see pangong in photographs, and entire other to actually be there.
No photography, video or log can every describe what is pangong.
I can't put it in words the feeling when you are there.
To put it in one line, we both agree on one thing, there is nothing as beautiful as pangong in the whole wide world.

Since it was just noon yet, we had the whole day with us. What a wonderful thought!
First was to find a secluded spot. A spot so difficult to reach that nobody follows us.
Now a quick scout of the initial part showed that all spots were easy to reach. However there were some which you could reach, but coming up without 4x4 will be tough.
So a nice spot was decided, and it was time to go into the lake!
The water was cold, but after some time it feels okay.



















The water was salty, or so they said, time to test?


CONT.........

[gd1418]

Maybe in June the tourist season had just started and the crowds were not there, hence maybe we didn't experience all these. Strange

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Most of the resturants at Chanspa were full of smoke, and the crowd was very "hippy" if you know what I mean. Esp the lane where sun and sand is.
People scanning up up and down, looking at you funnily, passing comments and generally out of their senses.
Daytime was different, but night was definitely weird.
Thankfully we escaped with just one night of torture.

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by gd1418

Maybe in June the tourist season had just started and the crowds were not there, hence maybe we didn't experience all these. Strange

gd bhai, you can go to anwhere in the world in any season, and the only reaction, if any, that you will notice is people running away cowering in fear

[gd1418]

In June we crossed the river to the other side and parked our Scorpios right next to the camels, did some dune bashing there, took camel rides and crossed back the river. I won't post pictures here of these as the ethos & the beauty of this travelogue will get marred. Might start a photologue after this Leh epidemic ends.. No one stopped us or fined us. This must be something new.

Btw, only one of the Scorpios in the group was a 4x4. The 2WD scorpios did equally well everywhere minus the dune bashing..

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Camel ride is on the dunes. Its possible to go in 4x4 but the area is restricted. Only camel wallas are allowed to take vehicles in this area. For others its 500rs fine.
Basically main hunder dune area is divided by a river. To the other side of river you cannot take your car, only camel wallas take their vehicles there.
However for 4x4 fun there are enough dunes and trails in the allowed area

Was this the place you stayed Tanveer? I too stayed there for a night in June for 400 Rs. a day. The med centre was opposite this motel.

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Time to head to Tangste.

It was 5:30 when we finally reached there. Checked into Dorothung guest house. The nice lady over there gave us attached bathroom room for 350 after bargain. Nothing serious enough to warrant visit to the medical center opposite the guest house, but still little annoying.

We didn't even try and ask...

Originally Posted by tsk1979

And I go the officer, and ask him about boat ride.

Well its paid, and its only for army guests.
But I can be his guest , he will confirm with his senior.
The senior also agrees!

My jaw is open, wish has been granted, and we get the tickets.
Time to go boating in the Tso

Yipeeeeeeeeeeee