3950m
Thats the approx height of this little pass.
Its no where in the league of the mightly Changla, Khardung La or Marisimik La, and yet this is a pass which is dreaded the most by tourers.
Maybe its the name, "A pile of dead bodies".
Maybe its the knee deep slush which swallows trucks.
Or maybe its the sheer drops and zero visiblity which can see you crash into the gorge without a moments warning.
And here we were. Darkness was falling, gramphoo was still away, and we had the pile of dead bodies to climb.
The POA was simple. At gramphoo we ask incoming traffic about fog. If its foggy, we stay in khoksar, otherwise we cross.
We trudged on the track. Shortly the climb to gramphoo will begin
The dark mountains
the white elephant
As darkness fell, we started climbing, taken just short of gramphoo
There were a few water crossings, nothing to major, but in darkness, every crossing is major. There was an army convoy, a short one which we overtook, but apart from that the section did not have any traffic whatsoever.
Last dying gasp of the sun
It was almost pitch dark when we reached gramphoo. Its september, and the joys of light till 8pm are not there.
A few "mahindra maxx" were coming down. We flagged them and inquired about the conditions.
"All clear" they said. But since it had rained heavily till afternoon, there were a few trucks bogged down here and there. We will have to make way around them.
And thus started our climb. Since it was almost 8, we would probably reach manali by 10.
11kms to Rohtang from gramphoo could take an hour, easily.
Slowly and slowly we started climbing on the rocky track. This being rain shadow, we did not encounter much slush, and in pitch darkness we reached the top.
There was mild traffic, and some maxi cabs were coming up. So far so good, no landslide.
The journey down will be easier we hoped. After all how difficult downhill can be.
But how wrong I was.
I have crossed Rohtang many times, and many times in the dark too, but never have I see such slush.
A maxi cab overtook us at high speed, and I decided to follow, but my skills were no match for the local driver who was literally drifting the turns.
We fell back, and continued slowly, watching out for rocks and slush patterns.
And then, somewhere between Rohtang and Marhi, we came across the biggest slush section.
It was one hairpin below us, and I could see the cab struggling and sliding as the driver gunned the engine.
A small truck was trudging up the slope, and this guy barely avoided the truck, squeezing in on the narrow road, and he vanished.
I took the hairpin, only to discover that the truck could not move.
It had gotten stuck on the main track, and was constantly going back and forth, spinning the tires.
What to do now?
I went off the beaten path to a slush section not driven on before, and then, stopped moving, with wheels spinning.
In all this drama, I had forgotten about 4wd.
No worries.
I backed out a bit, engaged 4L, and then slowly started proceeding.
The wheels spun and the engine roared, but the white elephant kept moving.
Soon we crossed the truck, and were on the main track.
But it was not over.
We counted 4 abandoned trucks left here and there by the drivers. I guess when it dries, they take out their vehicles and proceed on their long labored journey.
Finally it was only in Gulaba we got good tarred road, and only late in the night we could reach Kothi.
Luckily sagoo cafe agreed to serve us dinner, though they had closed down the kitchen. Thank god for small mercies.
Finally it was time to retire for the night. With no moon, and partially cloudy sky there was no use taking out the tripod.
Well I was too tired anyways. Since 8am we were on the road, and now it was past 10pm.
14 hours of madness.
Tomorrow, our journey ends....
TO BE CONT.....