Pics: Drove from KA to KL & witnessed the extraordinary Theyyam art

Unlike Kathakali, another artform from Kerala, Theyyam is not that popular outside of the geographical area where its performed.

 BHPian mpksuhas recently shared this with other enthusiasts:

Theyyam?

Theyyam is an artform of Kerala limited to few northern districts, mainly Kannur & Kasaragod.

Unlike Kathakali, another artform from Kerala, Theyyam is not that popular outside of the geographical area where its performed. Maybe its since Kathakali is more of a story telling medium and is performed nowadays in many tourist locations, while Theyyam is more of a ritual held at village temples or at houses .

Also, many of the characters each Theyyam artist enacts are linked to the locality and many of them has roots in the caste lines which existed in the society earlier.

Those interested to understand about the art form in detail, can go through the Kerala Tourism link.

But a quote from that page will give an idea on the art form -

Quote:

The medieval heroes like Kathivannur veeran, and Thacholi Othenan were deified and worshipped for their heroism. The goddess Puthiya Bhagavathy (new) and Makkam were heroines of tragic stories. Makkam was considered to be an immoral woman by her beloved brothers. The jealousy of their wives made her a victim of their suspicion. The brothers dropped her and children in a deep well. Later she was elevated as a goddess and was worshipped as a chaste woman. This episode has become the theme for a Theyyam goddess. Similarly Puthiya bhagavathi is also a local girl elevated by the local people to the status of a goddess.

Theyyam Calendar

Theyyam is not conducted year around, instead it is held at certain months of Malayalam Calendar which roughly translates to Mid October to Mid May.

Kerala Tourism website has a Theyyam calendar which can be used for reference.

Where to watch?

This is one of the biggest stumbling block, since most of the temples listed in the calendar, though small, gets crowded. Hence if you are planning on visiting just for understanding the artform (and not for religious purpose) it becomes difficult since you will be jostling for space.

The next best option is to visit any of the houses which conducts Theyyam. However, its mostly an event where family & known members from neighborhood attend. Landing there randomly may be infringing on privacy of the organizers.

Also, many of the performances happen early morning / past midnight, hence one has to plan the leaves / stay and visit based on that.

Plan takes shape

During past random discussions with friends, lot many had expressed their wish to experience Theyyam performance. However, it was always an issue of where and when. Meanwhile I was discussing this to a colleague of mine, he mentions that there is Theyyam planned over weekend at his dads maternal house.

We double checks if his extended family is okay with us visiting, they reply its not an issue.

Of the earlier planned, few of the friends were not able to make out due to personal commitments on that weekend.

On final count, it was 6 of us. Apart from myself & wife, a friend of us and 3 other TBHPians / fellow XUV owners group members - Sandeep ( @sandegov) Ajay (@ajayclicks) & Shreyas (@shrk_18)

Final plan

• Six of us will drive down in two cars on Saturday morning to Taliparamb.
• Check-in at hotel there, have lunch, take rest. Evening head to a Kavu (sacred forest) where there is a Theyyam conducted every evening.
• Get back to room, have dinner, catch some sleep.
• Head to house where Theyyam is happening past midnight.
• Watch Theyyam till sunbreak, head back to room.
• Have breakfast, checkout and drive back to Bangalore.

01 - Mar - 2025

We start around 5.15 AM from NICE - Mysore road junction. Our first stop was for breakfast at Ashirvaad Grand just before Hunsur, after an hours break we start around 8.30 AM from here.

Route

Bangalore to Taliparamb route is much discussed in routes thread, hence wont go in to detail of the same. However, the road is overall in good condition apart from few KMs near KL - KA border and also at start of the ghats. However, at locations where its bad, its really bad and one has to be careful if in low GC vehicles.

Bad road section starts

Past KL border, we take the GMap suggested SH 59. This is slightly circular in direction, however it by-pass town of Iritty and also traffic on this road is almost non existent. This road is part of the much talked about hill highway (Malayora highway) being redone around KL.

Place of Stay

We had booked our stay at a homestay in outskirts of Taliparambu. Lakshmi Taravadu Homestay

This is an old house which is now redone as homestay. Surrounded by greenery and frequented by lot many birds, it was an interesting place to stay. However, the place does not have AC and also, apart from two rooms, rest of the rooms felt bit like an afterthought based on size and ceiling height.
Summer has already arrived at KL and it was not a pleasant experience for Shreyas & Ajay who were sharing the smaller room.

Would suggest the homestay if you are a group of maximum 4 members (So that you use only the 2 proper bedrooms) and visiting in months of June - Nov, else do avoid.

Fun fact: Those familiar with KL politics, zoom in to the portrait in the last pic. The house is currently run by that persons daughter & grandson.

Check-in was done around 11.30 AM, after a small session of banter, we decide to head for lunch to nearby restaurant.

MRA Restaurant & Bakery - Had heard about this place earlier, but this was the first time I visited here. Food was good, though bit expensive as per KL standards.

Past lunch we head back to home stay and decide to take rest.

Continue reading BHPian mpshukas' travelogue for more insights and information.