We had no idea how the trip would pan out with a 4-year-old, but we thought, let's do it and take it one day at a time.

BHPian bharathdonti recently shared this with other enthusiasts:

30,000 km Milestone! First Long Road Trip with Our Seltos:

Happy New Year, Team-BHP!

Covering around 1,700 km over 7 days, this journey was filled with adventure, family bonding, and many memories.

Nizamabad - Hyderabad - Dandeli - Goa - Solapur - Nizamabad

While we frequently do highway runs between Nizamabad and Hyderabad, this was our first time taking the Seltos beyond Hyderabad. We had no idea how the trip would pan out with a 4-year-old, but we thought, let's do it and take it one day at a time. After the trip, we wanted to do more road trips, and that's how much we enjoyed it!

We managed to enjoy the entire week-long vacation for just ₹50,000! That included fuel, food and stays. Shopping excluded

Luggage. The boot was full.

We experienced rain during our drive due to the cyclone in Chennai

Giving it a nice wash in Goa

Post washing!

Wifey and the kiddo enjoying the front seats

While I'm trying to rest!

The MID shows the mileage as 20.7km/l. The tyres were set to 33psi (cold tyre pressure) throughout the trip

We got an average of 18km/l for the entire road trip

We spent a lot of time in the car in December

Gave the car for 30,000km service. The bill came up to ₹553. I have the my convenience plan.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

I decided to troop off on a short solo coastal holiday - sort of a “work from coast” if you please, since work at this time was light anyway.

BHPian Axe77 recently shared this with other enthusiasts:

Coastal holiday in Dapoli and Murud | A Photoblog

First and foremost, wish everyone here a very happy new year! Delighted to end 2024 and kick off 2025 with a travelog report of all things. … so here goes. My wife had planned an 8 day vacation from 26th Dec to 2nd Jan taking my son along with her siblings and their kids. December end we usually have folks working from home if needed - something I’ve been generally open to encourage with my team as well.

I decided to troop off on a short solo coastal holiday - sort of a “work from coast” if you please, since work at this time was light anyway. The idea wasn’t to drive a lot really. It was to plonk myself in two destinations over 5 nights and 5 - 6 days and just take it easy. Work to the extent needed and tool about locally as time permits, just soak in the destination, read some books, browse … whatever to unwind. To end the calendar year with some “ME” time to sort of reset myself for 2025.

With that in mind, I booked myself into two places - the first at a lovely property called Saffronstays Athaang at Dapoli and the second at what seemed a decent’ish place called Safffronstays Little Paradise.

Part One: Dapoli

Left from Mumbai around 9 am for Dapoli on December 26th. The route taken was Atal Setu, NH 66, and then cut out just after Mangaon. Despite stopping only for pictures on some occasions (no long break for food, petrol or coffee), it took me a solid 5 hrs 15 mins to reach my destination. While the diversions on NH 66 ensured the pace of progress was at best moderate, the principal culprit was a massive traffic jam between Indapur and Mangaon. The other aspect is that out of the total journey of 220 odd kms, post Mangaon, the last 85 kms of the journey is very heavily laced with twisties and has some sections of slow bad roads (nothing too nasty but just requires slow and careful progress).

I took along my Brompton as well for good measure in the hope that I could do some local sightseeing on the bicycle. Great decision as I could get some nice scenic cycling time too while I was here.

And we’re off. Here’s the customary starting pic from most of my journey blogs.

Cheeky click just for this caption. The original plan was to come here on the big GS. But some last minute gremlin on the bike meant making this a drive in the Mercedes instead. That’s the sum total of “Motorrad” that made it Dapoli and Murud for this time at least.

A tastefully done Thar sighted on the JNPT route …

… and a badass looking RJ plate Hilux sighted later on closer to Mangaon on NH66. Modded for Overlanding.

I’m really not a fan of NH 66 TBH. Roads range from lovely smooth sections to massive diversions, to these terrible snarls.

The section between Indapur and Mangaon was the worst - I must have spent at least 30 - 40 mins just in the Mangaon section, that being the point when one turns right to exit NH 66 and be greeted by nice empty inner B roads that cut to the coast.

After the shit show that is NH 66, the inner B roads of smooth flowing tarmac were truly welcome. A few really bad sections but not for long. Great roads for most part and I had some serious fun around the twisties too. Sadly, can’t share some of the Meta videos I took on the forum since I can only upload pics.

Open highway, great music …

… and the occasional sight like this. This is what driving trips are about for me.

Spots like these beg for a halt for some pictures.

Finally reached my place of stay, more than 5 hrs since I left, by around 2.15 pm or so.

Checked in and went straight for some lunch at their restaurant.

Decided to take a short drive out again back towards the bridge and a bit beyond.

Standard SOP … sight sunset, stop for pic.

On the return, visited Villa 270 which is very close by to check it out. Here’s a pic of the view from that property.

Saffronstay Athaang from a distance. There is a visible signage in the evening, which the lower resolution of the picture hasn’t captured.

Nothing to light up one’s spirits like premium parking for your ride.

Day 2 of “work from coast”. Got to love a day that starts with views like these. You can literally see the fishermen’s boats passing by right in front of your eyes.

I decided to head out on my Brompton to try and catch the early morning sun. Rode through this little village road here ….

… to reach this bridge for a view of the rising sun.

Came back to Athaang only to head out to Harnai Bandar to see the famous fish market there. It was a mere 4 kms away so decided to cycle down again, putting the Rayban Meta to good use for on the fly videos and pics.

That island like thing in the horizon is Suvarnadurga Fort.

More pics en route.

Some sights from this large fish market. If you’re having a fish thali anywhere around this area, chances are its fresh catch procured from this very market. The Brommie gets a lot of bemused stares, understandably. One of the more confident ones took a pic. I jokingly said, I’m taking his pic in return. We exchanged a few pleasantries and moved on.

Couldn’t resist lining up the Brommie for a picture here.

On the way back, stopped and briefly explored Goa Fortress at Harnai.

Meta at work again.

I had to head out to Dapoli to refuel - took this more scenic Dapoli bypass to get there.

On the way back, stopped at Ojanup for a fish thali. Had come highly recommended from some of the foodie groups that I’m part of.

Susegad life doesn’t have to be in Goa alone. A thali with a view … not a bad way to spend an afternoon.

Full disclosure … the place is REALLY simple. But it’s the simple places that are some of the best. This place is completely family run, like many of the other Khanavals that are dotted around the Konkan tourist hubs.

This shot is taken just a little beyond another Saffronstay property, called Villa 270. Lovely views from there as well since it sits higher up.

And another shot under the holiday season lighting.

Dinner at Athaang was a nice simple and typical konkan fare comprising taandla chi bhakri (rice bhakri) with yellow dal, thecha (sort of like a condiment) and bharleli waangi (stuffed brinjal) with some surmai fry fish to top it off.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

Range was showing another 1000+ km even after completing around 250 km of the trip.

BHPian sgm recently shared this with other enthusiasts:

This holiday season we chose a beautiful beach resort called "Kanan Beach Resort" in Nlieshwar near Kasargod for our trip. Thanks to @Dr AD for the following post.

This is not the first time and I'm thankful to @Dr AD for his travelogues as it helps others to make easier decisions. One concern with sedan users is the road condition and once I see a post from him, I feel confident that the road condition will be good enough for low slung cars

Started early morning on 26th December and I experienced the Bangalore-Mysore expressway for the first time. I mostly used cruise control at 100kmph and the drive was easy as there were very less vehicles early in the morning. As traffic was much less than expected we reached the resort much earlier than expected.

Stopped for a few clicks

Range was showing another 1000+KM even after completing around 250KM of the trip.

There are only few a cottages and the place was not crowded. It was very peaceful and serene, different from the typical busy vacation places.

We also did a quick trip to Bekal Fort on the next day morning but it was getting very hot, so cut short the sight seeing and returned back to the resort.

Reached back Bangalore on 28th night and there was more traffic compared to the onward journey.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

A few sections have foot-deep craters and loose soil which needed 4H to climb up. I saw a Mahindra XUV 300 with a broken bumper and Maruti Ertigas returning from that point.

BHPian jimnylife recently shared this with other enthusiasts:

I went on a solo trip to Kasar Devi and Munsiyari. Basically, it was a workation clubbed with a few holidays.

Day 1: Ghaziabad to Kasar Devi, Almora

Departed at around 5am. Didn’t experience any fog on the highways. Took the Gzb-Moradabad-Tanda-Bazpur-Kaladhungi-Nainital-Almora route. The route via Haldwani was saving only 15 mins but adding around 250 INR to the toll cost so I avoided it. I have a Jimny anyway and just plough through all the craters on the Moradabad-Tanda section. Please avoid this route if you’re not fond of off-roading.

I refuelled at the Indian Oil on Almora Mall Road as always since I have an Indian Oil CC that gives 4% off. Reached my hostel in Kasar Devi at around 1.30 PM. Also got stuck in the choke point near Neem Karoli baba ashram, it’s frustrating every time on this route, almost 30-45 mins are wasted at this point and there is no action on this as of this date.

The Kasar Devi temple is perched on top of a hill and offers panoramic views of the Himalayas. Swami Vivekananda had meditated at this place.

Highway views:

Nainital:

Sunset from Hostel:

Nanda Devi:

Day 2: Kasar Devi to Binsar and back

The Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary gate is around 10 kms from Kasar Devi. Pretty good roads, takes around 15 mins. They charge 250 Rs for the car and 200 Rs per person for entry into the park. I asked them what is this entry fee being taken for. The response I got was - Entry charge is taken by the forest department while the road inside is maintained by the PWD. Hence there is no relation to the fee being charged and the expectation of the road inside being maintained. Was warned that there are half a foot craters on bends and loose gravel, so drive carefully.

The gate to the actual hike start point is around 10kms and is 80% off-road. Few sections have foot-deep craters and loose soil which needed 4H to climb up. Saw an XUV300 with a broken bumper and Ertigas returning from that point. Such a waste of money for the clients in those vehicles, almost like a scam.

The hike is around 2 kms from the place where the car is parked and takes around 30 mins for a person with average fitness. The path is well marked and you don’t need a guide for this.

Views from Zero Point Binsar:

The trail:

With the bro:

Day 3

It was spent working from the hostel and nearby cafés.

Day 4: Kasar Devi to Munsiyari

Left early morning around 7am. Took 6 hours for the 190kms drive. Took the Bageshwar-Kapkot route since that was the shortest. Turned out, road widening is going on around Bageshwar and the road is a mess at many points. But Jimny took everything in its stride and even doing little shimmies sometimes on the bends with loose gravel which was fun. I gave a lift to three 3rd class school kids and dropped them outside their school gate. Kids were overjoyed to be dropped off to school in a shiny red car in front of their schoolmates Told that they walked 45 mins to school one way daily. Amazing grit I must say.

Took a stop to explore the Birthi Falls. Not majestic to look at during this time of the year, but in monsoons it’s a sight you have to see.

Also stopped at Thamri Kund to enjoy the light snowfall.

The road-

Spotted a jackal on the road-

Birthi Falls-

Panch Chuli peaks

Point to note: The route from Kapkot to Munsiyari is very narrow at places and there is no guardrail at most places with a sheer 1000-foot valley visible. There are very very frequent blind curves so you need to be skilled and confident if taking this route to Munsiyari. There is no mobile reception for Airtel for around 3 hours on this route so that’s also another important point to note.

Day 4- Munsiyari to Milam and back

Was very excited for this day since I was going alone into territory with no roads and no network. Milam Glacier is around 65 kms from Munsiyari. This village was a major trading post on the old silk route before the Indo-China war. After consulting many locals and hoteliers I set out on the journey with no destination in mind. Initially, there was black top until around 10 kms from Munsiyari and post that it was sheer off-road. The conditions were worse than the Kaza Manali section I can say. In some places the road was very steep and slippery due to loose soil. 4H had to be used at many places here.

I was able to go until the halfway mark which is a place called Nahar Devi. Couldn’t continue past that since road blasting was going on which would have taken quite a bit of time and I had to return back to Munsiyari. That’s an adventure I left for the next summer. If someone’s interested in good offbeat off-road this is the place. Was having a chat with the BRO folks and they said that the kacha road until Milam is complete and 4x4 cars can visit it, and in the next 3-4 years a blacktop is expected until Milam.

Some photos from this road-

Being very honest, the road was scary in many parts looking at how the mountains had been cut to make way for this road. It was like the Rocky Mountain was hanging like a sword above the road in many sections. In recent news, our Chief Election Commissioner got stuck overnight at Milam village since his helicopter developed a snag and was helped by a trekker who happened to spot them in distress.

Since I could not go until Milam, I had plenty of time in the afternoon so decided to do a small hike to Thamri Kund after returning to Munsiyari from the adventure to Milam. The lake was half frozen and the hike was through snow-covered hills which was beautiful. This was a 3km trek and is a moderate to hard one since it is very very steep at places and the surface isn’t also smooth. It’s rocky which means one needs very good shoes to do this hike. Took me 1 hr to go and surprisingly took 1hr 20 mins to return due to body fatigue.

Pics from Thamri Kund

Day 5: Munsiyari to Kasar Devi

Drove back to Kasar Devi, spent 2 more days here and then left for home. As luck would have it, due to overnight rains, the road washed away between Almora and Nainital and had to detour via Ranikhet-Ramnagar-Kashipur. The road near Tanda was full of slush and muck and I had great fun driving over the craters with the Jimny doing the occassional shimmy. The return journey took 9 hours due to the detour.

Next up I’m looking to go to Milam to complete this road trip, fingers crossed! With this, the ODO stands at 6700 kms in 5 months.

Few more photos:

Sunset from Munsiyari is one the best things from nature:

Nanda Kot

Trishul

Nanda Devi

The GOAT

Peaks glistening after fresh snow

On the way back to Almora

Coldest morning in Munsiyari

One of the numerous hairpin bends enroute Milam

3 Musketeers

Semi-Frozen Thamri Kund

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

The Duke is able to breath freely. I'm not sure if the difference is amplified because the old filter got super dirty and is at the end of its life, but I'll take it.

BHPian amyntor recently shared this with other enthusiasts:

It's been an eventful past couple of weeks.

Both the Duke and myself were eager to get back on the road after a one month hiatus. So, as soon as I got the rim replaced I planned for a 3 day trip to the eastern ghats.

Andhra Pradesh -> Odisha -> Chattisgarh -> Andhra Pradesh

This is an often overlooked region when it comes to tourism or road trips but every kilometre of this stretch is decorated with lush green landscapes, jungles and waterfalls waiting to be discovered and explored.

Some pics from the trip:

A feline friend that took a liking to me.

Sunrise at Deomali, Odisha

Chitrakote waterfalls in Chattisgarh. This is a horseshoe waterfall and often called the "Niagara Falls of India".

Two days after I got back home, I was involved in an unfortunate crash. I was doing about 50-60 kmph on a four lane road and suddenly a guy on a old Pulsar crossed into my lane from an intersection without even looking for oncoming traffic and then braked suddenly after he saw me. I had no time to react or dodge him by steering to the left. So, I did the best thing I thought I could do in that instance. Braked as hard as I could to drop my speed and hit his front tire. He fell to this other side and I crashed side ways. I wore my boots and riding gloves like I always do and got out scratchless. The Duke did great too. Left leg guard took the brunt of the impact. The clutch lever and the gear lever got scraped a bit. And surprisingly, not a scratch on the handlebar.

Normally, I would call it a sad reality of the Indian roads and move on but this guy insisted that it was my fault that I couldn't brake and caused the accident. I was particularly cranky that morning as my body hadn't had its fill of caffeine. So, what started as a quick ride to buy some grounded coffee powder turned into a two hour argument with some eager bystanders joining in. After our patience ran out and everyone had to go to work, the other party accepted their mistake, I paid to get the Pulsar's bent handle fixed, we shook hands and left.

On a different note, I ordered a BMC Air Filter and it arrived yesterday to my doorstep. I installed it last night, ran the engine in idle for five minutes and went for a 30 kilometre ride today.

Observations:
1. The low-end feels much smoother
2. The jerky/snatchy feel from the first two gears also seems to be gone

The Duke is able to breath freely. I'm not sure if the difference is amplified because the old filter got super dirty and is at the end of its life, but I'll take it.

That's it for this post.

Oh and how could I forget this stat. The bike turned one year and the current odometre reading is: 27607 kilometres

Read BHPian comments for more insights and information.

My original plan was to drive along NH66 all the way to Mumbai, then proceed to Nasik, possibly using the expressway.

BHPian Auto_guy_101 recently shared this with other enthusiasts:

Hello Bhpians,

Here's an account of my 1st long road trip. What was initially two distinct events turned out into a long road trip. I had a couple friends in the resort business in Goa (these are offbeat resorts far from the beaches) and a friend's wedding in Nashik, all in December.

The Planning

Some plans were made around September, but it was still not a road trip. Come October, friends backed out and I extended the invite to my mother and grandma. We added a bunch of temples to the plan, and they were set. Then began the real planning, say by 1st week of November. Dates were being thrown around, bookings were made - some of them thankfully were cancellable. I wanted to time the trip such that we got some rest in between, escaped the Christmas and New Year madness of Goa and minimized days off. The initial 5 days off turned into 7 and we got a good 2 weeks period with some staycation and return back around 25th to take rest.

The hotels and routes (add to that our vegetarian diet) needed a good 1 week of prep. Many thanks to the route updates and suggestions from fellow bhpians, I was able to put this un-conventional plan into motion.

The gang

Me (the sole driver), my mother and my 80+ grandmother. This trip was special to her for 2 reasons. Firstly, she has been on a somewhat similar route about 40 years ago when one of our relatives had to drive down their Ambassador from Mumbai to Kochi and she travelled from Nagpur to Mumbai to accompany them. Secondly, at her age, it was sheer will power that helped her make the trip.

Last but not the least was the workhorse (or sophisticated tiny horse) - my Kushaq, which carried our luggage in the boot and spare seat and took us through the journey in good comfort. The drive was excellent in most parts, but more on that later.

The route stay and destinations

Day 1: Kochi to Bekal (~340 km, 9 hrs)

Stay at Gateway Bekal (beautiful property, we managed to get some pre inaugural discounts and IHCL shareholder coupons helped). Route taken was NH544 till Thrissur, then joined NH66 near Valanchery. Rasavati, Kannur for lunch. Bekal fort is also worth a visit. This route has one of the worst roads (till NH66 is complete) and the section near Koilandy was the worst for me.

Day 2: Bekal to Udupi to Murdeswar (~240 km, 6 hrs)

Stayed at some cottage in Murdeswar. The roads steadily improve as one leaves Kasargod and the rest is mostly 4 lane highways (albeit the lane clogging cattle and dogs on the route). Udupi was crowded and Murdeswar was one of my worst experiences. My advice to fellow travellers - either stay at the RNS residency or guest house in Murdeswar or don't stay in that town. A Paakashala near Bhatkal is your best bet for veg food.

Day 3: Murdeswar to Goa and 2 day stay (220 km, 5 hrs)

Headed to this beautiful 250 year old renovated Bunglow - Mansao Curtorim - this is my 3rd visit and this places never ceases to amaze. Later headed to Natures Nest which is haven for Birders. The roads were in general good, but more on that later. Missed Doodhsagar as it was too much of an effort.

Day 5: Goa to Bagalkote (220 km, 5 hrs)

Stayed with a dear friend. Took the Anmod ghats, then some undefined route and a non-existent road to join some main roads near Khanapur, then bypassed Belagavi to reach my destination. Karnataka state and national highways are in a league of their own. My only complaint with them is the frequent speed breakers - I once had 20 speed breakers in 10 kms.

Day 6: Bagalkote to Shirdi (600 kms, 8.5 hrs)

Took the NH52 from Bagalkote to Vijayapura (this stretch is 2 lane, but good roads), then to Solapur (some maps sync issue and I ended up going through the town), then continued past Bheed towards Aurangabad and took the Samruddhi Mahamarg to Shirdi, Stayed at Shirdi and had time for Darshan at evening after the drive. Clocked around 18 kmpl, with cruise control at 95 (NH52) and 105 (Expressway) for considerable distances.

Day 7-10: Nashik

Travelled to Nashik via a short section of Samruddhi Mahamarg and stayed at Majestic Hotel, beside the Mumbai Agra Highway. Panchvati, Sula wines (for some wine tasting), some rather spicy Misal Pav and a wedding later, we departed.

Day 11: Nashik to Shani Shingnapur to Vijayapura (600 km, 9.5 hrs)

We had missed this temple in our earlier visits and didn't want to make a standalone trip from Shirdi or Nashik as it was 2 or 3 hrs respectively oneway. So we headed to the temple (reached at noon), then to Ahilya Nagar - Parampara restaurant - for lunch. From there to Solapur, had some tea (thankfully took the bypass this time) and headed to Bijapur, reaching there at 9 PM.

I didn't have the guts to use cruise control or take speed at night, which possibly cost us an hour of travel time. We stayed at VoV Hotels nice hotel with a restaurant above. We were super tired.

Day 12: Bijapur to Bangalore and then some rest (520 km, 9 hrs)

Visited Gol Gumbaz in the morning, did some vegetable and jaggery shopping and started back at noon (possibly the worst time to start back). The 1st 320 km to Chithradurga took us a good 5 hrs, with a stop in between and after some high tea at Paakashala, we started back, reaching Bangalore at 9 pm.

Last Leg: Bangalore to Kochi with a Sojourn at Coimbatore (500 km)

Lot of visiting friends and relatives in Bangalore, Coimbatore and some good food - this is a well known route to me but this time, it took the longest time. Special mention to Hotel Hariharaputhra in Palakkad for their awesome food and savouries as well as Friends restaurant in Ram Nagar, Coimbatore for some very tasty food.

Here are a few clicks:

Taj Bekal

Bekal Fort - where the Uyire Song from Bombay, was shot

The Peacock on its search for food

Our picturesque stay at Murdeswar (the experience however, is pretty poor and the approach road looks like an off road trail)

Murdeswar

The 250 year old renovated Mansion in Curtorim, Goa

The Praying Mantis of Kung Fu Panda fame.

Some friends for the road

13th century Siva Temple, Tambdi Surla, Goa

A rather secluded beautiful waterfall after a 3 km trek into the Baghwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary.

Sunset from the hills

The Godaveri Aarti in Panchvati

Bijapur from atop the Gol Gumbaz. PS: the 7 floor climb is not easy,

Shani Singnapur - this structure on the outside seems to be a photo booth. I was among the minority who just snapped a picture and moved away

Continue reading BHPian Auto_guy_101's travelogue for more insights and information.

The destination was worth the journey and the excruciating pain!

BHPian travelog recently shared this with other enthusiasts:

Sometimes it is the journey that defines the destination and the voyage teaches you a lot about yourself than anything else in life. 35 years ago, on 17th July, 1989; I took a leap of faith and undertook one such expedition myself. Little, did I know what lay ahead and eventually, four days later; I returned a different, much wiser person. A trip down the memory lanes to a chequered trip that was as uncanny as the idea itself!

This is when there was no mobile, no google, no internet & no idea how tough the road from Manali to Leh was in 1989.

The Idea, the Challenge and the Enormity of it!

What would be more offbeat than travelling all alone on a motorcycle on the highest motorable road in the world? The 470 kilometre Manali-Leh road covers the most formidable mountainous terrain passing over five high mountain passes – the Rohtang Pass (13,050 feet), Baralacha Pass (16,100 feet), Changle (15,010 feet), Chalangla (16,616 feet) and last but not the least, Tanglangla (17,580 feet) above sea level. It’s much worse than crossing the infamous Zojila Pass a hundred times over; and combined with the fact that, after Keylong, there is absolutely no habitation at all. If I had an inkling to what was in store for me, I would have never attempted this journey!

Day 1:- The uncanny beginning of an arduous expedition

Passing through Delhi, Kasauli (the calmest and the cleanest hill station in the country) Solan, Shimla and Kullu, I reached Raison, where Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (H.P.T.D.C) runs a camping site which is snuggled in apple orchards. I pitched my one-man tent for the night, with a little help from the caretaker, Brahma Dutt. Raison is an apple orchard country and according to a legend, the Pandavas frequented this place atleast thrice in their chequered lives! Next to the camping site runs the river Beas (derived from Rishi Vyas), where I had an exhilarating cold bath.

I barely slept that night as this was my first night out in the wild, without the proper protective “four walls”, the eeriness enhanced by the cold wind blowing and the gurgling waters making tremendous noise. Early next morning, leaving the apple orchard behind, I reached Manali for breakfast.

After meandering around for a couple of hours, I had to stock myself with 25 litres of petrol, since there would be no petrol pump for the next 470 kilometres! And after Keylong, absolutely no civilisation!

The next 41 kilometres drive to Rohtang Pass is a driver’s delight. On the way, one has to pass through Marhi, where I had some delicious aloo paranthas with chutney and curd. Rohtang offers an unrestricted panoramic view of snow-capped mountains. This is the place which sees a beeline by the tourists and their journey comes to an end. But, not me! Beyond this is the military road which had been thrown open to civilians for the first time since its construction. I was thrilled to learn that I was the first person on earth to travel alone on this road, that too on a 100 cc motorbike!

I met two youngsters who also intended to traverse on this very road. One had with him, a brand new bike which he had purchased in Chandigarh but unfortunately for him, he found this to be too much of an adventure and completed the rest of the journey on a truck onwards from Sarchu. (The only traffic on this route is the movement of troops and occasionally, trucks carrying aircraft fuel for the Leh airport). The other, Karma the Prince of Leh was riding a bullet motorcycle which later developed snags. Heard of the adage – Too many cooks spoil the broth – Well, here too many mechanics did the same with the bike! It resulted in the bike catching fire at Keylong!

The tarred road had tapered off and it was tough to handle the bike as the rough track was extremely slippery and on either side were deep gorges. After getting my documents cleared at the police outpost at Khoksar, the road got worse and that was just a foretaste of what was about to unveil in the next three days. At twilight, we were in remote Keylong, the district headquarters of Lahaul. This is where the bullet motorcycle was charred beyond recognition and with sadness, I retired for the night at the travellers’ bungalow.

Day 2:- Icy weather, broken bike, inhospitable terrain and stunning Patseo Lake

Next morning, I met a Danish couple on their Yamaha 600 cc’s bike and learnt that they too were attempting the same journey. After a heavy lunch, we were on our way, hoping to reach Sarchu by evening. But the road was so tough that even after seven hours of driving, we could barely manage 75 kilometres where we came across a deserted tin shed.

During this journey, I got stuck in an icy cold stream about three feet high. During the day, the snow melts resulting in a rapid stream of cold water gushing down the roads ending up in the valley. Panicking, I pushed the accelerator to its maximum. But, without traction and the rear wheel spinning, I managed to burn the clutch plates! With a lot of lady luck and tinkering, I managed to ride the bike in the first and second gears for the rest of the journey.

That night the temperature dropped well below 0 degrees celsius. The only pleasant sight that day was the extremely beautiful Patseo Lake, with its unnaturally bluish water. As one enters Ladakh, the colour of the sky changes dramatically into a heavenly blue, nothing like I have ever seen before.

A few words about this treacherous road would be in order. The General Reserve Engineering Force (G.R.E.F), the construction wing of the Border Road Organisation lost almost one life for each kilometre of the road constructed, hence is a ‘memorial’ to more than four hundred of its personnel. The terrain is utterly inhospitable and the weather extremely unfriendly. The mercury suddenly plummets below 0 degrees celsius and during winter, the normal night temperature hovers around -35 degrees celsius and during daytime, shoots upto 45 degrees celsius. It meanders through five high mountain passes and is the highest motorable road in the world. G.R.E.F ploughs about 1.7 lakh cubic metres of snow for every hundred kilometres which takes over three months, employing over two hundred personnel and about a dozen snow cutters. Though, open for hardly hundred days in a year, it assumes importance because of its strategic location, being so close to hostile neighbours.

Day 3: Hailstorm, high altitude, No food or water and breathing issues

The next morning, we experienced a hailstorm and rockfall as we started for Sarchu, 28 kilometres away. At the military checkpost, we parted company and I decided to make it alone (do or die was at motto at the moment) at any cost. The next two and a half days was a harrowing experience and as I had expected to complete the journey in a single day from Keylong, I was left without any food or water. A few months earlier, I had undertaken the Bangalore-Pune journey (860 kms. in seventeen hours flat, NONSTOP, riding throughout the night.) Since, Leh was 470 kilometres away, I presumed that however tough this road, I might be able to complete it in a day’s time. But that was not to be. It took me exactly 4 ½ days to reach Leh!

Life was never more complicated. Because of the high altitude and rarefied air, I had severe breathing problems and could hardly think straight. During the night, I had awful dreams of being, found by the soldiers, totally frozen! I realized how ill-equipped I was, without proper clothing, or even as essential necessity like a torch.

Practice makes a man perfect. To be fit enough for a journey, I had started jogging in right earnest a month earlier. To ‘rough it out’, I wore hunters without socks resulting in a big shoe-bite lasting over three months. And minus the pain-killers for the shoe-bite, it was hell. The only solace was the breathtaking landscape and the sun grinning at me throughout the day but in the process, drying up my drenched clothed.

Due to rarefied air, the sun is scorching hot and its ultraviolet rays caused deep sun burn. The rainfall being hardly five centimetres per annum, life is sustained entirely by the meeting snows during summer. The landscape is totally barren and desert like as high aridity and low temperatures lead to sparse alpine vegetation booming in clusters. Hence the name – Moonland. One comes across milestones every 40-50 kilometres probably just to assure you that you are still travelling on a road! There are times when you find yourself on a glacier without realising it! Due to lot of silting and avalanches, the ice gets covered with loose rocks, stones and soil. Another horrid experience was biking through the rapid flowing icy cold streams. As the snow melts on top of the mountains, the water travels over the road and by 2 PM, its height increases like anything and the flow gets dangerously rapid. A slight miscalculation and one is down the valley.

Due to the clutch problem of my bike, I had to travel around twelve hours a day and came across more than a dozen such streams, some above knee height! Due to the shoe-bite, half the journey had to be done wearing flip-flops! Since my entire luggage used to get drenched several times during the day, I had to spend the nights in wet clothes.

My morale had reached rock bottom and with the thin air breathlessness added upto give a massive headache, three days long. It got so bad that I could not muster enough strength to even remove my cameras from my rucksack. On several occasions, I stopped the bike and just flopped down right in the middle of the road! Just imagine the sight! But great was the bike (RX 100 Yamaha) which took this (mis) adventure in its stride except the clutch issue, which was entirely my fault.

By evening, I was at the next military checkpost, Spang. The military police were helpful enough to let me sleep in their tent as I had no strength to pitch my own. The next morning, I was given some pills for the headache at the MI room. MP Dayananad offered me a cup of tea and some kheer. That was the only food I had in over two and a half days!

Day 4:- Renewed vigour, sand, prayers, and curfew!

I braced myself for the journey ahead. I had to cross the formidable Tanglangla Pass and the pace that day got further slowed down because of tracts of sand. For a few kilometres, the road disappears and one encounters several kilometres of sand and travelling through with the clutch out, was an adventure on its own! I had to invoke all the Hindu Gods to help me proceed further and their mere number brought me through. By night, I was at the Upshi checkpost, which is just 60 kilometres away from Leh but could go no further as vehicles were not allowed into Leh after 6.00 p.m. as a curfew was clamped in the town. So, near yet so far.

After four and a half days of hard riding, totally famished, a groggy head and bloodshot eyes, I entered Leh. In these four and a half days, I felt like I had grown older by ten years and wiser by twenty. A piece of advice to a would-be traveller on this route (with the present situation in J&K, it seems a remote possibility of reopening this road for civilian, ever) – maintain a dairy, as the saying goes ‘Dead men tell no tales’.

Leh was under curfew for about a fortnight due to some violent incidents but unfortunately, as I entered Leh, there were police vans going around announcing the relaxation of curfew during the day. After such a tiring journey, Leh was paradise where I spent the next three days, relaxing.

The destination was worth the journey and the excruciating pain!

Leh reminds one of the utopian Lost Horizon. The Tibetan and Ladakhi cuisine is mouth-watering especially the thukpa, a soup with meatballs, Mokmong, noodles with meat and Momoes – meat covered with bater and deep-fried. A visit to Khardungla, the highest point on the highest motorable road in the world is a child’s play after those four and a half days. All tourists make it a point to treat themselves at the famous Dreamland hotel. I didn’t meet a single Indian tourist though I came across several foreigners especially the French and the German.

The most attractive and rewarding feature of Ladakh are the innumerable Gompas, the Buddhist monasteries dotting the landscape. The most popular among them being the Hemis – the wealthiest, Thikse which is architecturally the most impressive, and Shey which houses the 15-metre high statue of Buddha made of copper and is plated with gold.

The people of Ladakh are very friendly and hospitable and you are always greeted with ‘Julley’. The always present smile on their face makes one feel at home, instantly. Leh has innumerable guest house priced at Rs 30/day. It lies a little away from the bustling crowd on the main square.

Met Karma, the Prince of Leh again who had hitchhiked on a jeep from Keylong. He had loaded his bike on a truck on it’s way to Leh, never to see again! We made a trip to Stok palace belonging to his royal family. It has a museum housing exquisite period costumes, jewellery of the royal family, frescoes, precious jade, weapons, coins, porcelain jars, antiques and thankas – representing the life of Sankuya Muni.

After feasting on the exotic cuisine and aesthetically pleasing and interesting gompas, it was time to move on to the other parts of Jammu & Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh and a trek to Umba Pass, wondering, given a chance would I travel on the same route, again?

Julley, Leh!

Read BHPian comments for more insights and information.

My parents reached out to the top authorities at different levels and obtained a border crossing pass online for reuniting the child with family.

BHPian Carradio_ewan recently shared this with other enthusiasts:

A 36-Hour, 1750 KM Nonstop COVID-19 Odyssey: Reuniting with Family Against All Odds

This is a long-pending travelogue that took years to draft, with its own challenges and needing lots of time to consolidate. I firmed up the entire travelogue once I got access to this forum and had the license to share. I was on this job for the last 30 days to put things together and finalize the flow. The incidents in this travelogue were penned from my memory and with the help of my parents who helped in filling the gaps of my memory.

2020's Unexpected COVID Magic

We were back from an Australian trip in early 2020 after a year-end vacation, slowly but surely, the news of covid getting spread across the globe started making headlines. On our way back from Australia we had a layover at KL Malaysia, and we noticed few foreign nationals were wearing masks, and we thought it was a routine hygiene practice in those parts of the world. It took time for us to realize the intensity once we were back in our country. News started pouring in that many countries have started closing their borders and the aviation sector started cancelling their schedules to specific countries. Around us things were normal as usual.

Easter was approaching and my school spring holidays started, I was thrilled as we always celebrated Easter at our hometown (Kerala - Thrissur) with my grandparents. I hopped into the first plane (Skoda Rapid) with my velliappa (Appa’s big brother) and my cousins (Chechi & Varghese) to our hometown. Velliappa was given the grand task to drop all grandchildren to our grandparent’s home for a few weeks before Easter. This vacation was my first daring adventure, as I had never stayed away from my parents. I was their little kid, always under their wings. But with Chechi and Varghese by my side, I bravely took up the challenge, knowing my Appa and Amma were just a call away. Appa, Amma, Velliappa, and Velliamma were supposed to join us for Easter in the coming days.

Life was a delightful whirl of activities at my grandparents’ home. One fine day, my Amma checked if they should come to pick me up and return during the Easter week. Lost in the excitement of new adventures, I confidently told Amma I was fine staying put. Little did I know, my innocent decision was about to make my Appa and Amma race against time like Lewis Hamilton and Max Verstappen.

On the other hand, without my knowledge the global scene was changing in a matter of seconds, and I was at my grandparents’ home blissfully unaware of what was to come. Covid found it’s accelerator and the first case were reported in Kerala, the healthcare system, the people and news channels united and the battle was about to begin!

The Mighty Battle

On 24th March 2020 the lockdown for 21 days was announced by our prime minister, Amma was devastated by this news. Being a child, felt hurt and slowly the realization started kicking in faster than nitrous, and the news of the lockdown was accepted by me, as I had no choice and was counting days. My Amma was only watching the news channels to figure a way out to get me back. Days passed on and each state started bringing in their own restrictions for entry and exit. The challenges started growing and the restrictions for children and senior citizens were implemented for travelling and stepping out of home. I was used to a BLR lifestyle and with the cold BLR climate. To make things worse at my grandparents’ place, Thrissur was notoriously known to be extremely hot, with temperatures like 35 degrees being completely normal! Sun and Covid restricted me and my cousins inside the house, we Frankenstein many inventions and manufactured many sanitizers to beat Covid during these days just using leaves and water! But none of these inventions was recognized even at the grass level, but one of our “sanitizers” was an amazing bug repellent.

Once lockdown gotten over, each state had pass system and passes were only given for emergencies. Each state border had different criteria for entry and exits, border crossings and vehicle movement was not allowed. Few more days passed, and my stay was now more than 40 days. Appa and Amma were knocking on authorities doors to bring me back.

In Kerala health system and officials were vigilant, any travel, any people coming from other states and countries were identified, traced, and sent to quarantine centers for 14 to 21 days. Despite all of these events my parents decided to pick me up back. They reached out to the top authorities at different levels and obtained a border crossing pass online for reuniting the child with family. This pass had certain conditions and specific conditions to be adhered to at different state borders. Using this pass, you need not get into quarantine in Kerala but need to get back to Bangalore, Karnataka and go for 14 days quarantine. Your phone's locations will be monitored, and you need to report at each check post on your travel.

The travel pass was obtained for my Appa and Amma to pick me up and travel back to Bangalore. The pass obtained was for the longest route and it was the only choice and availability at that time.

Entry pass issued for Kerala & Karnataka

Road taken was not the best route, the route had deviations and many roads or parts of it were sealed due to the covid protocols and the road taken was way longer than the normal way. This was the map followed- BLR - Chikmagalur - Mangalore - Thalapady check post -Manjeshwaram - Kasaragod - Mahe - Calicut - Thrissur and on the way back was Thrissur - Calicut - Koduvally - Thamarassery - Adivaram - Vythiri - Wayanad- Meenangadi- Kattikulam - Bavali Checkpost – Nagarhole forest check post – Mandya – Mysore road – BLR.

The pass was approved on May 30th 20, entry to Kerala was on 3rd June 20 and exit via Bavali check post on 4th June 2020. My parents had approximately 3 days’ time to plan the travel, the approximate drive was for 36 hours nonstop and we need to cover 1750 kilometers up and down with lots of road deviations as the route we got once we enter Kerala was going through a national highways construction this was a stretch from Kasaragod to Thrissur which is almost the 50 percent of the road trip . Also, there is a time allotted at all check posts and you need to hit the check post on time to complete the protocol checks, there was no surety if the trip can be accomplished, at any point in time district authority can cancel the pass and send my parents to quarantine at that specific location stating any reasons relevant to the health checks. My Appa and Amma had enough, and they were in for the game.

The Beast Of A Machine! To Keep Up The Fun Of Driving And The Safety Of My Family.

Which car should we choose for the journey, given the numerous hurdles ahead? The route was far from promising, with several areas where road work had begun but was left incomplete due to Covid. We had to meet various time slots at border check posts, take numerous shortcuts, and navigate through rough terrains. We needed a machine that would ensure our safety, keep up with the demanding journey, never let us down and which can give us more gallons per liter as we were not sure about the availability of fuel due to the restrictions. The criteria were clear: it had to be a car capable of running nonstop for the next 48 hours, meeting all our requirements without fail.

My family chose our exhilarating, speed demon of a car, our beloved "Ameo" from the Volkswagen stable—a pure German by design and gene, built to conquer Indian roads. This machine is every driver's dream once they get behind the wheel. It can effortlessly exceed the 150 km/h mark with just a touch on the throttle. This beauty boasts ample luggage space with it’s giant boot and offers the assurance of top-notch safety. Proven to run continuously without losing power, the Ameo is a bigger, more practical version of the Polo, perfect for city conditions and long drives alike. Our Ameo was a 1.5 TDI, top-of-the-line manual, a thrilling beast ready to reunite our family.

Ameo's original MRF tires needed replacing before the trip. We could only find replacements at the VW dealership, so we opted for Pirelli tires and had basic oil checks done at the VW service center.

After the tire change and checkup at VW BLR

Ameo was a 2017 model, registered in 2018. This 1.5 TDI diesel engine beastly Machine boasted 109 BHP and 250 NM of torque. On highways, it delivered an impressive fuel efficiency of 22-23 KM/L, and even in the peak traffic of Bangalore, it managed to give 16+ KM/L. We owned the top-of-the-line trim, gleaming in white, which served us reliably until it clocked 112,000 kilometers before he moved to a passionate BHPien who loved this beauty at first sight. Ameo had a stunning and capable cruise control, it stood planted on road on high speeds, the engine mill produces a sweet music and at all signals when the light turns green, it creates envy to the fellow traffic with its launch power and torque. A true drive machine for the passionate drive heads. The sleek, aerodynamic design of the Ameo cut through the wind effortlessly, making it feel like driving a well-oiled machine with precision and grace. Its powerful engine roared with a throaty growl, a symphony of engineering prowess, while the sport-tuned suspension hugged the curves of the road, providing a thrilling driving experience. Fun fact: The most powerful model of the Skoda Rapid came with the Ameo’s TDI.

The happiest Me on the day of Ameo delivery!

Ameo was a practical choice for the Indian market. The TDI variant with manual gearbox proved to be a trouble-free high-performance vehicle. The more we drove it, the more we fell in love with its capabilities. Initially, I was skeptical about choosing the Ameo due to its looks, but my family wanted a compact, practical sedan with adequate power and a decent boot for frequent city drives and highway journeys.

Ameo fit the bill perfectly with its German engineering. Just after two highway trips, it became my favorite. Till the day we sold it, Ameo remained a steadfast companion. For anyone who’s still unsure about picking up a well-maintained Ameo TDI, I say go for it without hesitation. It's always a worthwhile choice (unless it’s a DSG, you should check it out before buying it).

The Thrilling Journey For The Next 36 Hours Begins!

Appa and Amma started most challenging trip of all time with the hope to pick me and come back safely. The journey started by 4:00 am, From our home, nice road corridor was near and they took same route to hit Mangalore highway. As per what they described, almost every district had a check post and health officers appointed. Initial 3 hours was a breeze, and their target was to exit Karnataka and enter Thalapady check post at 12:30 pm. Almost till 8 am things were going as per plan and our Ameo was really pushing hard to meet the timelines and the district health check post officials made quick clearances after the basic pass check. Initial hectic check happened somewhere at Dakshin, Karnataka where car was stopped and checked for all documents and travel permit. Amma was asked to sit in the car and Appa was asked to join the big line for verification of passes and basic temperature checks. It took more than 30 mins to clear and the task to make up the 30 mins added to the challenge. Route had twists and turns before hitting the Mangalore Thalapady border. The car had laptops, multiple smartphones, chargers and power-banks to ensure the gadgets were working. Our trusted partner throughout the trip was Google maps and the first attempt to hit the Thalapady check post got messed up as the map took my parents to a sub road check post instead of Thalapady check post. As the drive was also keeping time in hand my parents never realized the map was taking them to a different Kerala border check post. Appa is not familiar with this route as we normally cross the TN borders and get to Kerala from TN. My parents crossed the Karnataka border before 12:00 pm and there was no checking and the barricade was open, once they crossed the Karnataka border it striked my parents that it's a wrong check post as the map deviated from highway. As there was no time to waste, Appa pushed to the Kerala border where the car was stopped with a lot of mud heaps blocking the entry. Officer at the check post came out and told you are not supposed to come this way, and you need to continue on the highway and hit the check post. The language was Malayalam, and Appa showed him all the documents to let the car in, but the officer was helpless and asked them to return. They took a turn and pushed back to the Karnataka border, now the officers blocked the car and started the conversation like you guys can't enter Karnataka and how can you just like that get in. Appa told them we just crossed 5 mins back and it was our fault that we never realized the route was wrong. The officers were not that friendly and kept pushing back. We were losing time, and we had to be there at the check post for clearance by 12:30 pm. Time was running and the discussion was not reaching anywhere, Appa slowly started losing patience and then the locals intervened and after a lot of discussions vehicle number was noted and the check post was open to go back to Karnataka. Now the Google maps was acting weird and was showing different routes to the actual Thalapady check post. Appa got down and asked the locals for help and it was a village and only Kannada with broken Malayalam was working, somehow, they guided my parents to the highway and they hit the check post at 12.30 pm.

On the way near Chikkamagaluru

Check post clearance at Karnataka was a breeze, they took the token collected from Hassan and gave the exit clearance quickly. Entry to Kerala was a big circus, there were temporary sheds where the health officers were deployed, the first check was to stand in the line waiting for turns to check the temperature and then the token number was called. You need to talk on a mic for the officers to converse with you. After the basic questions and checking the reasons, my parents were asked to move for police clearance, they checked the passes, took the mobile numbers and checked the phones for Android or apple for tracking purposes. After an hour my parents got cleared to enter Kerala. Time was running and the next target In-front was to pick me and drive the whole way back to the check post at Bavali by 6:30 am the next day. So, each and every minute was precious and any time lost need to be made up on the road.

After getting clearance at the check post, they need to go through Manjeshwaram to reach Thrissur. This is going to be time consuming and stressful as the roads are in bad shape due to road widening and highway construction. Manjeshwaram to Calicut was the difficult phase of drive as the highway construction was halfway and cars were travelling at 30 to 40 km and it was a two way. Overtaking was out of the question and keeping up with the pace was a problem with manual gear shifts. The stress was building as Appa and Amma was getting back-to-back calls from the Kerala health department asking to report to district quarantine centers for quarantine and each time they have to explain the pass details and have to give assurance that they will not get down from the car or enter anywhere in Kerala. There were strict protocols, and many areas police and health department stopped Ameo with Karnataka registration. Once they reached Mahe my parents got calls from health and police asking them to stop and move forward for quarantine else they will be forced to file FIR for violating the law of the land and being a threat to the citizens. It took a lot of time and effort to convince both departments and share all details with promises. The government authorities told them to notify them once they reach Thrissur at my grandparents’ home and they will accompany to check if the norms are getting violated. With all these conditions they were allowed to move forward, there were small monsoon showers, and the road was dusty. As the work was happening there were areas where the roads were equal to off roads. Finally, by 10:00 pm my parents hit the grandparents’ home, and I was almost in tears seeing them. No words could explain the relief I had seeing them. They were not allowed to step out of the car and my grandmother gave dinner in my hand for my parents and packed up breakfast for the next day. My grandparents were not happy with the restrictions implemented for them. Their children are struggling and they came till the gate and going back without entering the house. Appa and Amma was watchful, and they can't imagine my grandparents getting unwell. My parents sat in the car had dinner and I told bye to my grandparents and quickly started back. Each and every time when a police vehicle approached us we got strange looks and we had small chit chats.

I was comfortable at the back bed, which was cozy, it was slightly drizzling. Ameo was picking up speed on the sublines entering the highway. It was almost 10:30 pm and we just crossed the Thrissur town and got on the Calicut route. It was after a long gap I was going out; little did I imagine that I would be stuck like this. I can see relief on my Amma's face, and I know what we all have gone through as a family. If I hear my parents right, things like this were never experienced in their lifetime. Before this something happened was the floods in Kerala, but my grandparents were not impacted. Slowly I noticed that the Kerala government state buses were piloted by highway patrol and health department vehicles and on checking with my parents I realized that these buses are coming from the airport and the travelers from other countries are taken to quarantine centers for the next 21 days.

The Google Maps Saga

Our Google Maps Saga was reaching its climax. It was raining, and the lights of oncoming traffic blinked through the haze. Road widening and deviations slowed us down, and labor shortages due to Covid meant everything was progressing at a snail's pace. Trailing behind a highway patrol Innova escorting international travelers, our speed was reduced to under 50 km/h.
Slowly, the traffic began to clear. We were just crossing Calicut as the clock struck 2:00 am. Appa and Amma were in a deep discussion, trying to find the fastest route to reach the check post by 6:00 am. The road widening had already eaten up four hours of our journey, a drive that should have taken less than three hours. Google Maps had been our guide, leading us through numerous side lanes and interior roads. Things seemed manageable until we took a right turn onto a dark, narrow lane.

We traveled about 600 to 700 meters down this pitch-black road, surrounded by small houses. The road narrowed further, with no space to turn around. Appa, sensing the tension, asked Amma to zoom in on the map to see where this road led. The path was barely wide enough for our Ameo with its mirrors unfolded. A small obstacle could cause a significant delay, creating a traffic jam in this cramped space. As we pressed on, looking for an exit, we noticed it was getting tighter and tighter. We hoped for a turn, a way out, but there were none. Then, we encountered a large water tank obstructing the path in front of a house a little bit projected to the road. We were stuck; moving the tank seemed the only option, but it was filled with over 1000 liters of water. The thought of emptying it was out of the question as it might lead to conflict in this water-scarce area.

Our Ameo idled, the soft yet intimidating purr of its 1.5-liter TDI engine of a heart, the only sound in the silent night. All lights were on—headlights, fog lamps, and hazard lights—as it drizzled lightly. It felt like the climax of a horror thriller. "Reverse," Appa suggested with determination. Amma looked bewildered. Reversing more than a kilometer on this narrow, twisted road seemed daunting, but options were limited.Appa was ready for the challenge. I was thrilled by the unfolding drama but knew that one mistake could damage our Ameo. With time slipping away, Amma was anxious, but Appa's confidence was unwavering and stronger than a Volvo. He was planning the careful reverse maneuver, a complex dance through twists and turns, that even Michael Jackson couldn’t figure out. Google Maps may have led us astray, but I was sure Appa's skill and resolve would get us through this night.

“Angels are with us, and they come to support you whenever you are in need”, that is my Amma’s belief! Amma always tells me that there will be “Angles everywhere to help you if you do the things right and ethically”, I must agree that she is right. We had an unknown Angle, God had kept for us that night, The lights of the house where the tank was kept, were switched On, An elderly man close to his sixties came out and looked at our plight. My Appa got down, the man smiled and asked in local language “How come this way?”. This question had it all. Appa briefed him about the travel story and told him we are on a non-stop drive to get this little kid back home, pointing to me. Uncle bent and looked through the window and saw me, awake at that time and staring at the water tank. Uncle without any doubt told my Appa, you are losing time, let’s push this out and in the whole process they ended up pouring out some water to make this happen. Appa realized the water wasted that night is going to build scarcity for the family for the next few days. Appa thanked him and told this was a big help that night. That uncle told us to ditch the google map and guided us to cross a few streets to hit a better road, we thanked him and moved on. It was a big relief; we crossed a few small towns and crossed some market roads to hit Koduvally. A 22 Kilometer journey had a story of a lifetime. Now we had close to 100 Kilometers to hit the Bavali check post where we need to cross at 6:30 am as per the pass issued. Time was close to 3:00 am and Amma said, “let’s park somewhere and take a quick nap and start off by 4:00 am, we should be able to make it by 6:30 am to the check post”. We started searching for a space that is ok to park the car and should be safe. We identified a petrol bunk where many trucks were parked, as it was the time of Covid, and we had a different state car we never wanted to venture to the common parking lot and stayed away. We parked our car under a high mask light on the opposite side of the road. Ameo was running with Ac on, Appa tried to keep the window a little low for fresh air, but the rain gods had different plans. It was pouring down and the water drops falling on the roof of the car was not music to our ears. We all tried sleeping for some time, but it was not fruitful, finally we decided to start off targeting the check post and planned to refuel at a good petrol bunk on the way.

After a brief rest, Appa seemed restored of tiredness, and our Ameo was performing superbly despite the light rain and fog. We soon reached the Thamarassery Ghats section, a picturesque area with fog and a gentle drizzle. We rolled down our windows to enjoy the cool, refreshing breeze of the early morning, creating a memorable moment for all of us. Appa, who loves driving through Ghats and is skilled at navigating their curves, adoptedly maneuvered us through the winding roads. In no time, we passed through Adivaram, then on to Lakkidi where we stopped at the Barath petroleum pump for fueling. It was early morning and there was no rush, the pump toilets were clean, we freshened up and Ameo was full after his hearty meal of Diesel and a side of more Diesel. We were all fresh and took the route: Kalpetta, Wayanad, and Meenagadi route to Bavali. Since our exit route was through the Bavali check post, we deviated towards the Kenichira route, where the roads became more challenging.

Once again, we encountered highway construction, and Google Maps directed us onto routes that were still under development. Our Ameo handled the off-roading experience brilliantly, traversing through mud heaps, splashing through puddles, and tackling freshly metal-ed roads with ease. Appa pushed the car to maintain our schedule, and Ameo responded with enthusiasm, showcasing it’s robust suspension system. As the hours ticked by, we made significant progress, crossing through Kattikulam and entering the Begur forest reserve. The journey took us through lush greenery and serene landscapes, eventually bringing us to the Bavali check post.

Bavali is not just a mere border crossing; it is where Kerala and Karnataka are gently separated by the enchanting Bavali river. As you traverse the Bavali bridge, you leave behind the lush greenery of Kerala and step into the wild embrace of Karnataka. Once across the Bavali river, you are greeted by the Karnataka check post, a gateway to the majestic Nagarhole tiger reserve. The journey continues through this verdant sanctuary until you bid farewell at the forest check post in Nagarhole, having been cradled by nature's serene yet untamed beauty.

Bavali Check Post And The Truckers !

It was 6:15 am and we encountered a formidable queue of trucks waiting to cross the border. There were numerous trucks lined up, and we seemed to be the last to arrive at the check post. As we took our position behind the trucks, the truck drivers gestured us to move forward, explaining that car movement through this check post is limited; most people typically take the Muthanga route to cross the border. We advanced, passing at least 30 to 40 trucks until we reached the barrier at the check post entrance.
Upon reaching the barricade, a police officer instructed Appa to take all documents and approach the check post for clearance. He directed Appa to park our car at a distance and walk to the check post. The officers verified the documents and informed Appa that both the health officers and the RDO from both states needed to clear us. After the initial checks, the officer asked Appa to cross the Bavali bridge and queue on the Karnataka side for the RDO officer's clearance.

Appa quickly crossed the bridge and took his place in the queue. By then, it was around 6:45 am, and he overheard truck drivers complaining that they had been stuck for an entire day waiting for the RDO clearance. The wait continued until 8:30 am when the RDO officer arrived and swiftly processed the documents. They checked the passes, monitored temperatures, collected addresses and phone numbers, and issued the entry pass with vehicle number and passenger names. Officials also briefed us on the quarantine norms. Appa hurriedly collected the pass and dashed back to the car to join the line for clearance from the Kerala border. As we lined up, health officials and other government representatives approached our car, took photographs, checked the entry pass issued by Karnataka, monitored our temperatures, collected our details, and instructed us to quarantine for 14 days upon reaching our destination. Once all this was done, the police and RTO officials began allowing vehicles to pass one by one. Suddenly, one of the officers signaled us to move forward past the truck in front. As Appa advanced, a truck driver abruptly moved his vehicle forward, blocking our path. The truck driver was agitated and quite mad, feeling we had cut ahead, but Appa explained that he was merely following the officer's instructions. Despite Appa’s offer to wait, the officer insisted we move ahead, leading to a confrontation with the truck driver, marking the beginning of our tussle with the truckers.

Duel Truck

Who remembers Duel from 1971? Well, if you don’t, the next part should give you Déjà vu!c

This story is not told to my grandparents - Our families' epic journey begins here! Our adventure through the Nagarhole forest was marked by an unexpected clash with a trucker that tested our resolve and determination and Ameo’s wrath. As we crossed the Bavali bridge to enter Karnataka, our encounter with the trucker escalated. The trucker, filled with agitation, inched closer to our Ameo, pushing Appa to stay at high speeds. Despite Appa's attempts to maintain peace, the trucker remained relentless, creating a tense atmosphere.

Appa kept his composure, instructing me to get up from the bed and buckle up as we sensed the trucker's growing frustration. Our plan to pause for breakfast was hit out like a home-run as the trucker continued his aggressive maneuvers, inching closer with every opportunity. The narrow forest road and the huge line of trucks made it impossible to escape this tense game of cat and mouse.

When the check post finally opened, vehicles were allowed to pass in batches, nullifying our idea of quickly getting ahead. Appa pulled over to the side to let the trucker pass, hoping to defuse the situation, but the trucker too stopped to the side and waited for us to join the party(If Ameo could move on his own he would’ve shown that truck who’s the BOSS). Looking at his attitude and fatigue building up, Appa decided to continue and got back on the road. Mr. Trucker just cut across from the side and continued to be in front of us blocking our path and continued the harassment by not giving side and applying sudden brakes. Appa, tired but undeterred, saw an opportunity to overtake, and dear reader, I would say that Ameo and my Appa had a silent conversation moments before, since he gunned it across the road hitting 4900 RPM(we can easily hit over 120 at 2500 RPM)!

The trucker’s erratic and must I say childish driving, sudden brakes, and blocking attempts tested our nerves. Appa’s priority was our safety, and despite the fatigue from 24 hours of non-stop driving, his focus was unwavering. The honking and close encounters were nerve-wracking, built like parts from Duel, but my parents’ presence of mind and calm manners under pressure were . We were sure nothing was going to happen as we were sure about the safety of the car and to the max it may end up with small starches.

In a strategic move, Appa pulled over again better than Charles Leclerc pulling-over for a pit stop, allowing the trucker to pass while we took a much-needed break and had our breakfast, which was packed by my grandmother the previous night. After 20 minutes, we resumed our journey, determined to reach the Nagarhole forest check post. In no time we realized that the trucker was waiting for us to start the battle again. Trucker got back to the road and tried blocking us again. As my Appa saw the trucker ahead, Appa skillfully overtook him, securing a safe distance before reaching the forest check post. At the check post, the Karnataka cops and forest officials provided much-needed relief. The trucker and Appa exchanged words, but we were finally free from the stress and risk. With the trucker stuck in the long queue for clearance, we moved forward, no longer burdened by the tension.

A Hilarious Yet Timely Encounter Unfolded

Now we have completed around 31 hours of our relentless journey. It is 11:00 am, and we have finally reached the normal roads of Karnataka via Hunsur. I slept for some time and got up to witness a fierce encounter with a cop guarding a district health outpost. We were cruising at a good speed, eager to reach home, hoping all would go well in the next few hours.

On our way, we failed to notice a district administration health check post far down the road, marked only by signs in Kannada. The officials later informed us that the boards instructed travelers to stop and report to the health outpost for hand sealing and quarantine. Our Ameo, being a KA central registered car, quickly caught the cop's attention, and he mistook us for trying to evade the procedure. Sitting next to the sign with no reaction as we approached, we never realized there was a health outpost to monitor travelers from other states.

We crossed the boarding, and the cop, enraged, began chasing us, waving his stick furiously. He was not friendly, raising his voice and striking our Ameo, which was unacceptable. Appa rolled down the window and spoke to the cop softly and gently settled the issue, an unexpected response for the cop. The cop backed off hearing this and guided to the health check post which was located down the road. We took a U-turn and reported to the health department. We briefed the officials on the misunderstanding caused by the boarding and lack of barricades. They seemed unfriendly and overworked, so we decided not to waste more time. The health workers collected our details, stamped the quarantine release date ( 18th June 2020) on the backs of our hands, and instructed us to stay home for 14 days. Free to go, we continued our journey.

Seal for Man & The Machine

Ameo crunched more miles in style and my tired eyes were closing on and off, I could hear my Amma’s voice like music and she was making fun of me. Saying this is how you get screwed if you ditch Appa and Amma, she is referring to the dialogue which I made while going to my grandparents home. I told them “I needed a CHANGE and let me take this up” . She articulates this dialogue till date with my actions and the sunglasses I had during that time. She still asks me do you need some CHANGE and I end up with no words! Ameo was moving and some music was playing we were somewhere close to Mandya and have almost touched 35 hours of drive, suddenly Appa pulled over Ameo to the roadside shade and told need a quick break as he was losing focus, he took a quick nap and I see my Amma awake and vigilant asking me to be silent. In exactly 15 minutes Appa gets up, washes his face and we are back on the road.

When nearing our home my parents want to pick the essentials for the next 14 days quarantine as we don’t want to trouble anyone with the same. Apart from the daily essential grocery my parents have stocked all medicines and stuff needed for emergencies if something went wrong. When we neared our society Appa stopped by a nearby supermarket and Amma got down fully decked with Masks, Gloves , Sanitizers and picked everything we needed for the next 14 days. We soon entered our society and informed the association members about our travel and our plans of quarantine. They thanked us for informing and asked to let them know if we need any help. By God's grace we reached back safely and it was the best drive we had. We as a family enjoy road trips and we prefer to go by road, wherever possible. My parents are the real enthusiasts from whom I have got the madness. The reason I love this trip the most is that I experienced the warmth and care my parents had for me . This trip was going forward with HOPE and each and every challenge came across was taken up without any hesitation or fear as my parents had the aim that was Me. We hit our sweet home by around 4:30 pm and soon took a hot shower and a Dettol bath. All the clothes, masks, gloves were packed tightly and disposed of. After I took a bath I noticed a small package wrapped in gift wrapping. I opened it and found a small toy Camaro! My parents told they wanted to give me a little surprise and that's what they got. Afterwards we called our families and told them we reached safely, we had our grandparents and all family members talking to us back-to-back throughout this 36 hour journey to keep us awake. That day we slept early, and we slept like never before.

Two Things That Happened The Next Day Once We Woke Up

The next day we woke up hearing the calling bell around 9:00 am where the uncle who comes to clean the car, woke us up to inform us that even after multiple washes there are many tar dots on our AMEO! Thanks to the road widening and tarring that was happening on the Thrissur Calicut route along with the rains, the chase we did with the highway patrol vehicle ensured this splashed tar on our Ameo. Appa spoke to the uncle through the window and told him to stay away as we were in quarantine, he was puzzled as he knows how much we love our cars and the extent we go to make our vehicles as new. Appa told him not to try anymore to remove the same and we will take professional help to get this out.

Second thing was that latter around 11:00 am my Appa got a call from the cyber police department of Kerala asking us where we are?. Appa told them about the travel and the pass category which allowed us to travel and get back to the place where we started. The Police officer was kind and patiently listened to our story and told Appa that they have monitored our travel through the details of our phones collected and there were around 20+ places according to the system we have broken the quarantines norms, we have not reported to the district quarantine centers and have crossed the border. So before taking action he just took a chance and tried calling my Appa and Amma, he understood and asked about the little hero(me) and advised us to be watchful of any covid symptoms and to seek help if needed. He took the pass details used for travel and told Appa that they will pass this to the Karnataka cyber cell to verify the start and end time and if everything matches, they will clear this. The first thing we did after the quarantine was to give our AMEO Kuttan (that is how Amma calls him) the pampering he deserved. We took him to the best detailing studio in town, where the experts worked their magic for three meticulous hours.

A Word Of Apology To All My Forum Members

Apologies for the late long tale, and we have only few photos to accompany this journey. This drive was purely an emotional odyssey, riddled with hurdles. All the images are etched in our minds and hearts. Numerous family members, friends, and kind strangers—government officials, petrol pump attendants, police, small shopkeepers—connected with us as we crossed each district milestone. I salute their tireless efforts, support, and the help they extended.

I will never forget the gaze of the uncle who stooped to peer at me on that narrow road, and the health department official who advised my Appa to keep the car door closed if there was a child inside. The gentle raindrops that slipped through the slightly open windows, kissing my cheeks as we rested at Koduvally, remain vivid. The policeman at the Kerala border, who noticed our new set of Pirelli tires and suggested checking the air pressure, and the aunty who stamped a matching seal on my little hand—each moment, each gesture, is unforgettable. The trucker uncle we made dizzy on our route, the furious cop waving his stick at the health checkpoint, and the sight of my grandparents as Ameo moved forward—all these fragments form the mosaic of our journey. This trip was driven by hope, care and the warmth of my parents, my guiding stars. Each challenge was met with resolve, for their aim was me, their little hero.

I know you might be thinking this little one had made life miserable for his parents, you are right, but you see they love me a lot.

Your Little Ewan !

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Last year we did the same trip in our 2023 Nexon EV in the enthusiasm of saving the planet.

BHPian bhpindian recently shared this with other enthusiasts:

Family trip within Speed Limits in my 2019 Ford Figo Titanium Diesel

We recently panned a pilgrimage visit to Shegaon in Maharashtra from Sangli.
Last year we had done it in our Nexon.EV 2023 Empowered+ in the enthusiasm of saving the planet.
On that trip we realised the excellant conditions of the roads and lack of EV infrastructure in the region.
But the kids really enjoyed the trip due frequent stops and play areas in hotels
It took around 14-15 hours with 3 stops for food and charging combined to finish the journey.
The speed limit of 120 kmph between Jalna and Malegaon exit were never reached in the EV due to range anxiety.
This year we ditched the EV trip plan and decided our Ford Figo should be put to better use.
Over the year the car had some upgrades in Engines, Tyres, Suspension and ICE etc.
So we decided to put them to test to see if they were worth. We were a family of 4 and accompanied by a family of 4 in the 2018 BMW 520d.
During the previous trip we had seen 5-6 Interceptor speed cameras and decided to follow strict speed limits everywhere for 682 km.
The Diesel tank was topped up with 35 Litres before the trip.
We planned a one long break lunch to keep kids happy.
We started at around 9 AM and reached around 6 PM with a duration of 10 hours including an hour lunch break.
The car did not need any refueling throughout the trip with an exceptional efficiency of around 20 kmpl
The less than average traffic on weekends helped in maintaining speed as well as efficiency.
The Drive on Samruddhi Mahamarg where speeds reached around 120kmph was fun and smooth.
The 30 km patch of single road was also smooth and but had many speed breakers.
The car didn't felt 5 years old and had the punch when needed for quick overtakes just before the two trucks closed the dual lanes.
Even though there were 7-8 toll booths the less traffic and Fastag helped save time
The trip data was obtained by Jiomotive module in car.

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Before this trip was done, I had Maharashtra coastline on the to-do list. But I'm now wondering - why limit it to only India?

 BHPian ninjatalli recently shared this with other enthusiasts:

I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.

– Robert Louis Stevenson

Prologue

Ever since I completed the Karnataka and Kerala coastline trips, the clock was ticking on completing the third leg of the southern coastal trail - Tamil Nadu. This had an even more ulterior motive - my roots are from this state and I have traversed very less of this state; with most of my time here spent only in the cities of Chennai and Trichy. But then parenthood happened and the plans had to be put on hold for a while. Work pressure all went up so finally when the opportunity came up with a good number of leave being available that needed to be used up before the year end and favourable weather conditions observed towards the end of the year, the wheels in the head started grinding again.

The so-called plan

It took me two years to be able to revisit this goal but finally a plan was put for December about six months in advance. Office holidays were blocked, required train tickets were booked and a rough timeline was planned. The cycle was lying at my parent’s place in Chennai and not used for a while so it had to be spruced up for the long ride. Also, one endpoint of the trip was to start or end at Nagercoil while I was based out of Bangalore, so that had to be taken care off. Tamil Nadu (TN) also had the ‘problem’ of many temple towns situated in the interiors so a rough itinerary as below is what was put up initially

• Day 0: take a train to Chennai and spend the day getting the cycle into shape
• Day 1 - 7: Hit the following cities
• Puducherry
• Tharangambadi (/Tranquebar)
• Thanjavur
• Rameshwaram
• Tirunelveli (or Thoothukudi)
• Day 8: Tirunelveli to Nagercoil
• Day 9: Overnight train reaching Bangalore in the morning

A few days before my planned trip, my wife had asked me for an indicative plan and this is what I had shared with her. The TBCs were still to be planned out; I didn’t have suitable locations identified even then.

This was a very aggressive plan; with no buffer time or rest day. Last time on the Kerala trip, the extra rest day at Kochi was vital for me to do the remaining 300 kms to Kanyakumari. Also, the kms estimated were on the lower side as I found out when I actually did some of those segments (Chennai - Puducherry turned out to be ~150 kms instead of 140). But overall, that quietened the doubters for a while.

However, one factor that I couldn’t plan for - was the weather! Courtesy of the (unofficial) TamilNadu Weatherman, we found out that the coastal sectors of TN are to experience extreme heavy rains over the week I was to do my cycling trip. This put my family into a frenzy with multiple requests being made for me to replan or cancel. After numerous back and forth sessions, I finally changed my itinerary to a more agreeable route; with the focus more on temple towns rather than sticking to the coast.

Source: Tamil Nadu weatherman

Replanning: Final Itinerary

So the replanned itinerary became as below

• Day 0: Head to Chennai and get everything ready
• Day 1: Chennai to Puducherry
• Day 2: Chennai to Chidambaram / Mayiladuthurai
• Day 3: Mayiladuthurai to Thanjavur
• Day 4: Thanjavur to TBC
• Day 5: TBC to Madurai
• Day 6: Madurai to TBC 2
• Day 7: TBC 2 to Tirunelveli
• Day 8: Tirunelveli to Nagercoil
• Day 9: Overnight train to Bangalore

The TBCs location were due to limited hotels / lodges availability in the interiors of TN. Also I was on the lookout for places which had some setup of parking area (for the cycle's overnight safety); many places just offered outside / frontside open parking which wouldn’t work for me for an overnight halt. I was more than okay to rough it up with my own lodgings as long as I knew the cycle was not at risk of getting picked up overnight. As it turned out, I eventually decided the final stopover hotels only the night before.

Map-layout of the route

This route still didn’t rule out any future rain based constraints due to the south-west monsoon, but it gave me easier options to check out and call it a day if the need arises. Two locations were Madurai and Tirunelveli, where I could call it a day and head back home on a train if needed. Something which I actually leveraged during the trip; but more on that during the latter posts.

Trip Summary

So prior to this trip, I hadn’t been cycling a lot. Which was a big red flag. I started going on local cycling trips in and around Bangalore a few weeks in advance; with a few longer rides over the weekends. As it unfolded, the maximum ride I could get to do was a measurely 60kms; well short of the 100+ kms daily rides I was planning for. But I did what I could do and soldered on. The hope was on the factor that TN was relatively flat so that should help. As it turned out, I did decently well and the lack of more prep didn’t create much problems.

Key Stats

• Total distance: 500+ kms
• Avg (daily) distance: ~100 kms
• No. of days on the road: 5
• Hours spent on the road: ~35 (generally 5:00am to 12:30pm per day)

Gear / Acessories

I again decided to travel light inspite of the weather (rain) and managed without the need of any panniers. I debated for a while if I should carry raincoat but decided against it. My luggage consisted of:

• 1 x TrekNRide saddle bag (to carry luggage)
• 1 x cycle portable pump
• 1 x extra tube
• 1 x multi-tool kit
• 1 x cycle lock
• 1 x mobile (front) holder bag
• 1 x tire repair kit
• 2 x pairs of riding top + pants
• 2 x pairs of light material homewear + other knick-knacks
• Basic cycling gear (helmet, bottles, glasses, gloves, etc.)

So how did it turn out?

• TN turned out to be very different from KA and KL. Almost like they are different countries. Not only from terrain, but also with regards to culture and people. (maybe this was obvious to you, but it surprised me).
• The rains didn’t affect me at all (thankfully). The closest I got was a few drizzles during one of the day which lasted for less than an hour. The trip was mostly a mix of cloudy and humid/warm days; with morning sessions being Bangalore-ish kind of weather and afternoons becoming like Chennai.
• For reasons still unclear to me, local folks assumed I wasn’t a local/Tamilian at all; speaking to me in broken Hindi or English. Only after I spoke back to them in Tamil; did they acknowledge that I was “one of them”.
• December is a great time to be in Tamil Nadu for bird watchers. The delta regions which is filled with flat plains that get filled with rain water see so many beautiful bird species. I saw so many colors - it was a pity I didn’t have a proper camera to capture them.
• With a Hampi trip that was done in November, and the plethora of temples I got to see on this trip, I think I have seen more temples in the last 6 weeks than I have done in my entire life combined. Quoting my wife - I’m definitely having temple-fatigue (/phew).
• Having said that, TN temple towns definitely need visiting. They are drop dead gorgeous and some of them don’t get the necessary importance that other national level sites get (e.g. Hampi). Practically every village/town/city has a glorious temple to boast about and many of them are centuries old, rich with history. On that, it felt to me there is no comparison across the country (disclaimer: limited know-how). I can only hope this wonderful history gets maintained and not lost over time.

Day 1: Chennai to Puducherry (via Mahabalipuram)

summary for the day

I wanted to start early and kept alarm for 4 am; and was pretty much out of my house by 4:30 am. Surprisingly Chennai city was still sleeping; I guess 5 am is the wake up point for the masses. I quickly got on to the ECR with limited traffic; mostly trucks than cars. And the occasional speeding car or bike.

By the time the sun came up, I was well outside the city; and then started the train of road bikes (cyclists) with men and women in lycra speeding by me in cohorts. Weirdly most of them felt comfortable blocking a full lane for themselves; rather than going in single file. A very dangerous move; considering that the ECR was hogged by racing cars and bikes in the mornings; and it would be only a slight oversight for a speeding vehicle to veer into their lane. Thankfully none of that happened; and I continued on my (relatively) slower pace on the shoulder lane, chugging along kms.

I passed Mahabalipuram around 6 30 am; and with that left behind the lycra train who were taking their water/tea/groupie-pic breaks, before heading back to the city. I had been to the temple so many times; there was nothing for me to visit; so I continued ahead.

Mahabalipuram temple - source: google maps

But then started a new train - a train of leather and polyester; as a steady stream of motor-bikers with their big exhausts and noisy machines roared by. It seemed the only goal to be achieved for their morning rides was to who’s bike can make the maximum noise. There was direct correlation between the estimated value of the bike and the noise it makes. The poor Royal Enfield-ers (pun intended) were the quietest of the bunch. This train went on for a much longer time and was seen taking breaks for those group bike selfies at several scenic locations.

By 11, the heat picked up and my pace had reduced significantly; with breaks taken now every half an hour. I even had a second late breakfast at 11 30 am; just for the sake of sitting in an restaurant with fans! I finally crossed the Puducherry border around 12 30 pm and stopped to search and book a hotel. I could identify one with proper parking right next to the French quarter/colony and that became my base for the night. With nearly 150 kms under the saddle, I had limited energy so I quickly went out for lunch nearby and satisfied my hunger with some crepe(s) and juices to keep myself refreshed.

The outer layer looked and tasted like a dosa but the fillings were really yummy!

By the time I returned back to the room, my body was ready to call it a day and I slept off for a few hours; only waking up for an early dinner. Like Mahabalipuram, Puducherry was a place I had been multiple times so I had no intention of doing sight seeing; especially given it was the weekend with heavy crowds. Attaching a few pics of a similar trip when I was able to walk around the French quarter without the crowds around.

early mornings at the Promenade beach...

...with the only people around being locals on their morning walks

I find Puducherry starting to resemble Goan cities in so many ways - for starters, there is the similarity of a good mix of different culture(s) and cuisine(s). Bikes and cycles for rentals are available at every corner at affordable rates; and there seemed to be no checks for helmets. The booze shops are well spread across the streets but aren’t seen negatively; and blend well with other shops. Tourists (Indian and foreigners) are more visible than the locals. Atleast the French quarter felt like that; the rest of the city still retains the usual setup. I for all matter, didn’t feel like experimenting; and found a quaint bhojanalay setup in one corner right next to premium restaurants. Had a simple thali that felt just perfect for the night. Quite an odd choices of food options for the first day, but it felt good enough.

A north-indian thali for the sweet deal of 150 bucks in the center of French quarter - who knew!

Called it early and slept off; as I had planned to start early again the next day. I guess I was one of the rare tourist in the French quarter going to sleep at 9 on a weekend night.

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Day 2: Pondicherry to Mayiladuthurai (via Chidambaram)

summary of the day

Now we were getting into the exciting part of the trip with the road passing into temple towns / territories; however that wasn’t to start till we reached Chidambaram; which was still a good 50 kms away. Also given there was no trace of any rain yesterday or today morning; re-planning doubts started popping into my mind - if I should go back to my original plan of sticking to the coastal route. I decided to take that decision after breakfast but that turned out to be a problem as no restaurant was open / ready with breakfast for the next 40 kms. Passed through Cuddalore around 6ish and nothing was open; and I finally found the first restaurant providing breakfast close to 2.5 hours after I started cycling; somewhere on the highway.

nothing like steaming idlis to drive away weariness

After the stomach was taken care of, I went about checking weather forecasts. And decided to stick to the current plan; but also decided I would not stop at Chidambaram but rather keep going as much as I can. While there was no rain while I cycled, the impact of rains over the last week was very much visible with fields on both sides of the highway filled up with water; it felt as if the highway was right in the middle of a flooded river with just the elevated height of the national highway allowing it to be not submerged.

that was not a river...

I reached Chidambaram in less than an hour and took the opportunity to gulp down a nicely done dosa at one of the popular joints around the temple

round 2 of breakfast - this was becoming a habit, one I enjoyed!

The restaurant folks allowed me to keep my cycle in their parking area while I went ahead to tour the temple. Given that I was in biking shorts, I wasn’t sure if I would be allowed into the temple premises but the restaurant staff assured that there are no checks done. So I entered the temple; but before that a bit of wiki-info

Quote:

Thillai Nataraja Temple, also referred as the Chidambaram Nataraja Temple, is a Hindu temple dedicated to Nataraja, the form of Shiva as the lord of dance. The present temple was built in the 10th century when Chidambaram was the capital of the Chola dynasty. After its 10th-century consecration by the Cholas, the temple has been damaged, repaired, renovated and expanded through the 2nd millennium. Most of the temple's surviving plan, architecture and structure is from the late 12th and early 13th centuries, with later additions in similar style.

The beautiful west-gate gopuram providing entrance to the temple

This was a massive temple premise - one of the largest that I saw over this trip. And very well maintained as you can see in the pictures.

the south entrance also had the Nandi statue in front

the rear side view of the gopuram

The inner sanctum area had warning boards of no pictures/videos allowed so I didn’t take any; but it was a fantastic structure for sure. Google it up and you’ll see enough pictures/video tours of the same. Around here a security guard walked up to me and very nicely told me that shorts weren’t allowed and I had to go out; and so I did.

I walked out to the rear (/north) side of the temple and came upon the pretty shivaganga tank within the temple premise; which was extremely well-kept. I didn't know at that time, but this was the best maintained tank of all the temples I visited. Spent a few minutes over there before I decided to move on and headed back to the restaurant.

I headed out of Chidambaram and got back to the highway. For a while, I stuck to the national highway but for my next destination I had to get off the highway and into the rural scene; which was a pleasant shift into roads like these.

My next destination was the tiny town of Vaitheeswaran koil, a small setup with a temple that held importance to my family; so a stop made sense. And I’m glad I did that; as the temple was definitely worth the halt. Spent a few minutes going around the premises; thankfully there was no one to impose any dress based restrictions on me thankfully.

Another set of pretty gopuram(s) - it was interesting to see every gopuram had different set of characters

the intricate carvings of the pillars

This temple too had a wide tank at the back but the water condition wasn’t as clean as the one in Chidambaram. I guess it doesn’t get the patronage and funding as much as the other one does.

Interestingly this temple was known for it's ability to cure diseases. I wonder if that warranted a dip in this tank

There were a few hotel / lodge options in this small town but nothing really fit the ask so I decided to continue ahead till the next town, Mayiladuthurai; which also was the district head quarters, so definitely I would have a more bigger choice list of places to halt over there.

And so I did with a nice homestay kind of setup that offered compact AC rooms for a tidy sum. I quickly freshened up and head to a restaurant nearby that was recommended by the owner and I certainly wasn’t disappointed- the ‘sappad’ meals I had was simple but excellent.

Basic meal but every item on the leaf was good

I had a few office calls that I could not skip so the afternoon went by pretty fast; followed by some rest. In the evening, I walked around to the local temple - every village / town / city seemed to boast of their own temple and this district headquarters too had one that was just behind my homestay setup.

Given that by now, I was spoilt for temple choices, I didn’t spend a lot of time and went around looking for dinner options. Found a mess that offered snacks instead of meals and decided that would do for me. And called it a day early again; but I was looking forward to the next day’s escapades as now I was in prime temple town territory.

Continue reading BHPian ninjatalli's travelogue for more insights and information.