In the previous post, the route covered is a proper track and recognized route. However, Changthang offers a few routes which rarely see any traffic. Once a week or so, a ITBP truck passes through, and that too is not guaranteed. Some sections are totally off the map or normal routes.
The start point of this route is hanle, from where you take the chumur track. A GPS is a must, and even with GPS if you do not have the trail marked, you can head of somewhere else.
Its sandy and rocky, with some water crossings which are mostly dry, except during the rare times when it rains(remember, its a desert)
Now what is the problem here.
Well first the altitude. It starts from around 4200m above sea level, goes upto 5100, and then comes down to around little less than 4000. Much of the riding is above 4500
After you cross the village of Punguk, a few kms after hanle, take a good look back.
Though we did not know at that time, we were beginning our 90km ride, and for these 90kms we will not see a single human. Only living things.... Some Kiangs
As for the track, its different. Frequently used tracks get beaten down, and after a few years, you get a well defined track, but not here
There are some truck marks, thats all
And your marks...
Thankfully initial section is still soft, and you can make out the existing tracks
But many times tracks go here and there. We also ended up here and there, in a totally wrong direction. But then this is called exploring. And over here, you can discover some really amazing spots. Like this one
Tempting, right. Race to the horizon? Well not really, there are deep gulleys, and one such gully is not passable. Which is actually a blessing in disguise, because we had to turn back and take the correct track
Such hidden places have another advantage - Kiangs everywhere!
and then finally after hours on the tracks, you actually see what you wanted to see
The lake of Kyun Tso, Numerous such Tso's some motorable, some not motorable, and some make your own road motorable. Kyun Tso is make your own road kind of motorable. And guess what its one with one free!
But to get closer its wiser to walk, esp if you are alone. Nobody to winch you out here. Even if you have a winch, remember, there are no trees. with two vehicles, of course, you can be braver
Its tough to reach such places, and there is no habitation, but sights like these make up for it
As I said, one with one free, here is the second lake
This one has a soft swampy sand around it, its difficult to walk. Feet keep sinking in. So be careful while attempting to drive towards this one
Can you spot the white elephant?
After the lakes you have Thit Zarbo La and from there you descend to saner altitudes. Lakes are at 5010m, and the La is around 5100m
Road towards the La- Here the track is well defined
Near the Pass you can see both the lakes
The Pass
After the pass, the track worsens, with rocks and all
Its a bumpy ride, but downhill. And as you know, gravity is a friend.
Now if you are going to attempt this ride, make sure of a few things
1. Vehicle reliability. I know you must be laughing here, because of the stories of my white elephant, but guess what, periodic care and maintenance can tame the wildest of horses
2. Food - Bread and cheese-spread work best. So do chocolates
3. Fuel - Changthang loop can require anything from 1000kms(which we did) to 1400kms of fuel
4. Environment - That high mountain may seem very tempting to do 4L stuff, but refrain if it has grass. If you drive on a grassy section it will take a full season to grow back. In this hostile environment, its the only food the wild animals get. Do not kill their food. Of course, there are a lot of sandy and dry mountains to attempt heroics.
Apart from this, make sure your glow plugs work. Even in summers some sections can see -5 in the early morning. Try to park your vehicle where it will get sunlight in the morning. Helps a lot during cold starts.
Last but not the least, the biggest risk here is overheating. Yes overheating. There is so less air, that if you are on a low gear and medium high rpm, the radiator fan will not be able to cool the engine sufficiently. In modern engines, the ECU puts the engine in limp mode much before any damage can happen. But in older engines, keep an eye on that guage, and service your radiator before the trip!
Thats all and ride safe.
I rarely see 4x4s going exploring the unknown in India, but I hope, with the coming of Thar like vehicles, more people will dare to see ladakh a little differently.
If you really want to do this loop, and want directions, feel free to drop a note, or ask your questions. There are many more Tso's like Kyun Tso, accessible by 4x4 only, and there are many hidden plains, waiting for exploration.
whatever I have done, is just a small section, and I have mapped it on openstreetmap.
Meanwhile, enjoy a compiled video from my Changthang Loop