[headers]

@Jeepster a k a Nikhil: You are a Geek arent you? Just saw their site yesterday and you have managed to put pics here - It is as if I am seeing things in slow motion

@ Sudharshan: The lambretta / vespa gear mechanisms were cable operated. But they had their own share of problems.

Basically the shifter is introduced to have a positive locking 4wd-Hi and 4wd-lo and 2wd. This is a problematic area and they seemed to have found a super solution.

[Sudarshan]

Originally Posted by headers

@Jeepster a k a Nikhil: You are a Geek arent you? Just saw their site yesterday and you have managed to put pics here - It is as if I am seeing things in slow motion

Ya he can Amaze you with many more things

@ Sudharshan: The lambretta / vespa gear mechanisms were cable operated. But they had their own share of problems.

who knows better than me ?? used to support my self on such ' problems" when family routinely disowned me because of the DIY ( though they took me back after a while of exile ) .

Basically the shifter is introduced to have a positive locking 4wd-Hi and 4wd-lo and 2wd. This is a problematic area and they seemed to have found a super solution.

No doubt that is

Here is another drawing ( again from scooter shifters ) from my side , this a locking shifter disc . This can be used upside down & two rods can be used ( in place of cable ) -- these rods will come in the cabin straight & knobs ( like gear shifter ) can be fixed on ends .So one can push either of them to select a position



Sudarshan

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by charan

In my eagerness to fix this issue, i found this website 'www.theshiftster.com'; and that's it ! bought The Shiftster got it shipped (thanks to a friend who was visiting) !

Got my hands on the Shifter 3 days ago, fixed the setup myself today and my 4x4 jeep is good to go ! The pictures below should explain the rest.

Hi,
What are you planning to do with your now useless electric shifter etc? (Ulterior motive:- want to buy it. At junk prices!)

Regards
Sutripta

[charan]

Hi All -

Firstly apologies for disappearing after my last post. Some Personal as well as office work kept me busy and i was neither able to respond to some of your queries, nor was I able to get the tinkering work done.

Ok, now for the update, i was able to spend some time today with my jeep and the tinkerer to get a flap door fitted from inside. Honestly wasn't a big deal at all, but the benefits are a plenty. I explained what i needed to the tinkerer and we soon agreed the best thing to do was to fix a Maruti (800/esteem) fuel flap door. Althoug my tinkerer recommended the door with the key, i wasn't keen (and i did a mistake); instead asked for a bolting mechanism. The poor chap did as told and now the door locking looks a bit messed up; that apart the Objective is met !

I now can sit behind the wheel and shift to 4WD with out having to step out (ah, i forgot the free wheeling hub :-( i still have to step out... bummer!! ). The tinkering was quite well done with rubber beadings and painting.

And folks; please follow this link to see the updated pictures of the door flap and the utility.

" https://picasaweb.google.com/1016205...eat=directlink "

Dear Sutripta -
As for the Transfer Case Motor, i plan to keep it my self. Hope to find a used ECU (although they quote high; one was available for 16K) to keep it stock if i plan to sell my Armada some day.

Dear 4x4addict -
I picked the BFG Tires from General Tyres, Lalbagh Road, Bangalore earlier this year. They are 235/70 R16

If any of you need any more details/clarifications/queries quickly, do not hesitate to call me on +919880677111

Regards
Charan

[charan]

Friends, a mechanic from the Mahindra India Garage called me and asked if i was interested in a used ECU that his friend was willing to part. Says he's expecting 10k for this used (like new he says) ECU. Although my manual Shifter is working fine, should i consider this ? I like to keep my jeep stock, but can i trust the electrical wirings on my jeep ?

Regards
Charan

[4x4addict]

Originally Posted by charan

I now can sit behind the wheel and shift to 4WD with out having to step out (ah, i forgot the free wheeling hub :-( i still have to step out... bummer!! ).

Originally Posted by charan

Friends, a mechanic from the Mahindra India Garage called me and asked if i was interested in a used ECU that his friend was willing to part.

Hi Charan,

In my opinion, it is not worth getting the ECU as there is no guarantee that it will work. Many times, the dealer is not able to diagnose the issue and the easiest thing for him to say is that the ECU is not working. Your problem may have been with any of the connectors or even the motor.

If you plan to buy the ECU, put back the electrical shifter, connect the ECU and see if it is working before paying for it.

Regarding the Free wheeling hubs, if you plan to go off the beaten path, it is better to engage hubs before you set out so you won't have to do step out of the vehicle.

[charan]

Here are the pictures of the manual shifter that i was unable to post it in t-bhp earlier.

[BlackPearl]

@Gurus - How can I find out what gearbox and transfer case is used in my Bolero LX 4x4? It is a lever with straight shift pattern.

[4x4addict]

Originally Posted by BlackPearl

@Gurus - How can I find out what gearbox and transfer case is used in my Bolero LX 4x4? It is a lever with straight shift pattern.

It is NGT520 Gearbox with T-18 Transfer Case. Borg Warner the rear shaft output in the center. T-18 has right off set rear shaft output.

[ringoism]

Been hearing some murmerings re: a reduction of the government subsidy on diesel, meaning higher prices in the future. For daily-driven Jeeps (like our Marshal), even a 1kmpl difference would add up to thousands of rupees per year.

Anyone with specific info re: the following, please post ASAP, since I need to decide what to do before Monday (T18 gears trashed, a complete manual-shift BW case on offer for around the same money as repairs to the T18 would cost, and a necessary road-trip next week!).

I've read all the old threads including discussion of the T-18 vs. Borg Warner, some citing "greater internal friction" for the former. Obvious from a technical perspective; but what I want to know is whether anyone out there has solid numbers / real-world experience related to exactly how much actual advantage in fuel consumption something like the BW1350 chain-driven transfer case has over the old gear-driven indirect-drive offset T-18. I mean specifically, in kmpl.

A little background, to inform re: our longer-term intended use and related mechanical requirements:

I bought our Marshal (DI, NGCS, 4x4) with a view towards creating a supremely reliable, virtually unbreakable, relatively efficient, easy to personally maintain / repair, and versatile machine for the rough places. No hard-core offroad, really, but lots of Himachali dirt/rock tracks and snow on a regular basis, and hopes for long-distance runs in remote parts of Ladakh and the greater Himalayan region in the coming years. Could see some plains travel (Rajasthan, Nepal's Mahendra Highway, and maybe as far as Kerala) at some point, but I do realize the DI's limitations as a highway cruiser.

With all this in view, I like the T-18's nearly unbreakable iron case, the right offset output (good for rock avoidance, with matched rear axle), the two levers (occasionally useful 2WD LOW possible with interlock removed), the access to PTO options, the inspection plate on the bottom, and probably easier sourcing of parts & mechanical acumen in rural parts of India not quite arrived at the Bolero/Thar era (but where you might find an old 4x4 FC or Jeep plying). Cited T-18 noise issues seem to be mainly intermediate shaft wear, so not concerned about that assuming it's rebuilt.

Also, I understand that the KMT-90's mainshaft has to be replaced (with the Armada's?) in order to mate with the BW, and that this shaft might be hard to source. I've got the gearbox opened now, too, so no problem to do it, but can anyone confirm this or any other necessary mods?

In the opinions of the experts, with our vehicle / uses / etc in view, is there anything else to commend either box over the other? Local mistry's and parts guys, who do quite a lot of 4x4 work, tell me both are good.

Many Thanks,
Erik

[ringoism]

I had mentioned in another thread how the local jeep 4x4 taxi guys actually go to the trouble to buy a complete 2wd gearbox / driveshaft and swap it in/out seasonally (re: snow), in the belief that they're saving significantly on fuel by doing so. Some claim 10-11kpl for 4wd DI, and 12-13 for 2wd DI. Seems hard to believe that the weight of an extra diff. and the Xfer case (according to Mahindra sources, a mere 80kg) could make that much difference. Final drive gearing is supposed to be the same, 4.27:1. I do wonder whether any of the local operators actually do the math - but does it seem possible that having direct drive (like the BW, or a 2wd setup) could actually have so significant an effect?

-Erik

[prabhuav]

Originally Posted by ringoism

I had mentioned in another thread how the local jeep 4x4 taxi guys actually go to the trouble to buy a complete 2wd gearbox / driveshaft and swap it in/out seasonally (re: snow), in the belief that they're saving significantly on fuel by doing so. Some claim 10-11kpl for 4wd DI, and 12-13 for 2wd DI. Seems hard to believe that the weight of an extra diff. and the Xfer case (according to Mahindra sources, a mere 80kg) could make that much difference. Final drive gearing is supposed to be the same, 4.27:1. I do wonder whether any of the local operators actually do the math - but does it seem possible that having direct drive (like the BW, or a 2wd setup) could actually have so significant an effect?

-Erik

I think the power loss in the t18 is at least 20%. Seat of the pants mind you. Nothing official about it.

I don't think the BW TC has had any reliability issues and uses correctly doesnot seem to break at all.

Having said that , mating it to the KMT90 might be a pain as I have never seen an adaptor for that combo. Additionally I think the KMT90 main shaft is too small to fit an adaptor plate on.

[jyobeb]

Prabhu, the KMT90 did indeed have a Borg-warner option. I have an adapter plate that I have promised to give to Santosh.

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by jyobeb

Prabhu, the KMT90 did indeed have a Borg-warner option. I have an adapter plate that I have promised to give to Santosh.

thx beboy, awaiting it eagerly.

[jeepster]

Originally Posted by ringoism

Anyone with specific info re: the following, please post ASAP, since I need to decide what to do before Monday (T18 gears trashed, a complete manual-shift BW case on offer for around the same money as repairs to the T18 would cost, and a necessary road-trip next week!).

I've read all the old threads including discussion of the T-18 vs. Borg Warner, some citing "greater internal friction" for the former. Obvious from a technical perspective; but what I want to know is whether anyone out there has solid numbers / real-world experience related to exactly how much actual advantage in fuel consumption something like the BW1350 chain-driven transfer case has over the old gear-driven indirect-drive offset T-18. I mean specifically, in kmpl.

if you can source the adapter plate & other needed parts please go ahead & do it.

pros

• silent
• higher gear ratio than T18
• better FE in 4x2 mode (dont know the exact figure)
• better pick up in 4x2 mode

Originally Posted by prabhuav

I don't think the BW TC has had any reliability issues and uses correctly doesnot seem to break at all.

Having said that , mating it to the KMT90 might be a pain as I have never seen an adaptor for that combo. Additionally I think the KMT90 main shaft is too small to fit an adaptor plate on.

I have a armada with 2.1peugeot+kmt90+manual BW TC.

rgds,
Nikhil