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Should be fine. Do the outer plate (inner-side) - that's the critical one, just like @dinitrol mentioned. Also, if you notice, the damping that is done in the factory is on the outer sheet only.

+ one does not need to paste the entire door or bonnet area with the sheet, cutting it into smaller pads and using them staring with the center is good enough. this way a larger area can be covered, also cutting down total cost

ryan

Correction, please read the above as Aluminium-Butyl based sheets.

Now time for results.

Cost for 8sqft damping sheets + 9 sqft deadening sheets + turpentine + Cotton waste + Scissors + Screw driver set = 6000Rs

Damping inner-side of the outer wall+Deadening outer-side of the inner wall of the 2 front doors and deadening outer-side of the inner wall on 2 rear doors.

Bruises and stains are bonuses.

Front doors are heavier, plastic panels on all 4 doors feel more tightly fitted.

Rattling reduced noticeably,definite improvement on the overall SQ from the components, noise reduction is nil .

Audio test done using the following track-list. A State of Trance 2008 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Volume 30 was unplayable before the DIY, with heavy distortion on bass notes due to the rattling door panels and windows. Rattling door panels are a thing of past now, but there is some resonance at higher volumes for sustained bass notes from within the door. I think i should have put one layer of damping on the outer-side of the inner wall underneath the deadening sheets. Not sure, this might be even due to the power window fittings, which can't be damped AFAIK.

Knocking on the front door outer metal feels less hollower than on the rear doors, which dint get any share of the damping sheets.

Would I recommend this to anyone?
Yes, if you are as crazy as me, even after knowing that I might have to part with my car in a few months time(traveling across the oceans).

Ideally, the best thing to follow up after this is to get the under-body treatment done, but i guess i will wait till my visa process is over.

@Ryan, thank you.

Here's a sample of this - pics taken from my Ikon, in the boot. This is the area near the right rear fender/ rear wheel:

This is a very noobish question,
What is the difference between Dampening and Deadening?
What are the benefits of adding cotton? And wouldn't adding these be a fire hazard?

My Civic just has dampening(dynamat) on the outside of the outer wall and Cabin side of the rear tray, while I do hear rattling sounds time and again. Mostly from the front components and sometimes in the rear too (do not know which specific part but I hear it clearly in my right ear).
Any advice?

This is no authentic answer, but my understanding is ,

Damping is the process of bringing down the resonant frequency of the metal parts so that there is less amount of energy lost due to vibration of the metal. This helps is improving the overall quality of the sound as there is no loss of audio signals across the spectrum. I think damping is mostly helpful in improving the SQ of bass to mid bass spectrum. Basically it should prevent vibrations of a surface due to acoustic/mechanical energy sources(speaker/engine). The sheets are very heavy.

Deadening is the process of cutting out the unwanted frequency, like using ear buds while dealing with heavy machinery. It's cheaper as the material is light weight fibrous foam. Not sure the difference between closed cell/open cell - but the recommendation is to use closed cell.

I read that the extreme job requires using multiple layers of damping material overlayed with deadening mats to give the premium luxury car effect.

I chose the deadening mats over damping sheets for the outer wall due to

1. I was afraid of increasing weight on the doors due to multiple layers of damping sheets, deadening sheets were light like feather.
2. Deadening sheets are cheaper.
3. I wanted to reduce the rattles of the plastic parts.

I guess, to reduce engine/road noise, the cheapest option would be to do an underbody coating, floor deadening with cc foam mats and firewall damping and deadening with both.

Brickbats are most welcome. :Shockked:

:) Dampening = wetting with water (making damp); Deadening is another word for damping, which means reducing the amplitude of vibrations / oscillations.

Adding, or rather stuffing cotton waste is an economical method of damping, usually the boot lid or hatch. Of course, this works only if there are 2 surfaces to stuff the material between. Not a fire hazard - doesn't catch fire by itself, but if the rest of the car is burning, ... :p

What is the difference? A couple of pics should help us understand.

deadening - definition of deadening by the Free Online Dictionary, Thesaurus and Encyclopedia.
damping - definition of damping by the Free Online Dictionary, Thesaurus and Encyclopedia.

clap::thumbs up Thanks, but unfortunately without captions the pics still don't connect with "deadening mats" and "damping sheets".

Thanks. I got it now :)

I do not think I would be needing any deadening in that case, as the car is quiet as it is, plus I am worried about it being a fire hazard. Who knows when a spark might occur and kaboom...

Like I said before, only the outer side of the outer wall is damned in my car and the cabin side of the rear tray.

Should I also get the inner side of the outer wall and/or outer side of the inner wall and/or boot side of the rear tray dampened?

The seller claims the following quality for the deadening mats

Resistance to flame

They are based on Polypropylene and the wiki says this

Although polypropylene clothes are not easily flammable, they can melt, which may result in severe burns if the service member is involved in an explosion or fire of any kind

So I hope I don't get in the way of a melting sheet, and i guess if i am in there for enuf time to let the sheets melt, i would already be Fried Chicken.

Fair enough. I will check with my dealer about these sheets and get it added to the plastic side of the door walls. Maybe that will stop the plastic vibration :)

Could you tell me what the is the per sheet cost and size?

For me it came around 240per sqft for 5mm thick sheets including shipping.

Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

This seems to meet your requirements - if its just to stop rattles. The pricing on the site comes around somthing like this

~3mm thickness is ~INR75persqft
~6mm thickness is ~125persqft

You need to send email to get a shipping quote.

Let us know how it went.

We all know about DynaMat and all those sheets of damping material, But these are essentially damping material - they are rather heavy sheets which are stuck to the metal to prevent vibration. But I'm looking towards options for noise absorbing material - the stuff that's used under the hood, on your cabin floor etc to damp out engine and road noise etc. The diesel drone in my indicab is pretty heavy, but till recently it used to be drowned out by tyre noise. Now that the engine noise is all that's remaining, I'm wondering if there is a way to upgrade the stock absorbing materials

the stuff at Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction from Second Skin was interesting.
What options do we have in india? I think Wurth has some.

Different materials, in varying thicknesses work at different frequencies. I think a good start would be to identify what band of frequencies are the most prominent and thus choose a solution. That said, it would be very difficult to implement low to mid frequency absorbers in a car environment.