Team-BHP - ICE upgrade : Maruti Swift
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Quote:

Originally Posted by BHAGWAN (Post 885726)
If this goes, I will have to spend a lot more to get the Eclipse 7200 from PTC...

Have you heard the 7200? or even the 7100?
Have you played with it's controls.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ragzv (Post 885522)
Kenwood 5-band EQ (4042A) can solve most of the problems with the Swift Dzire OEM HU. Well it solves the following:

1. 1 RCA preout to 3 RCA (with separate controls)
2. 5-Band EQ (OEM HU has only bass/treble)
3. Sub frequency and level control.

In future I would not like to land up changing the OEM HU (for lack of SQ, 1 rca and almost non-existent sound modulation) and then the Kenwood EQ becomes useless (almost)

In most cases EQs tend to be detremental to the sound.

as a bridge till you upgrade to a better HU the EQ makes sense but otherwise forget it.

you can get 1 using speaker level to line level adapters
you can get 3 using a sub amp like Blau's PA275 that has a level control
you dont need 2.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BHAGWAN (Post 885599)
I am ready to sell it off.
18/- K should be good.
Thanks.

I put mine up for sale @ 20k, thats with a year's warranty and iPod cable... no takers yet. So @ 18k I don't know how fast it will move.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vrrraju (Post 884801)
Thanks DerAlte and Rider, I have few more doubts,

1. Should I go for Pioneer 6050 or Alpine? My budget is around 15k with B/W.

I never knew that just a small question of mine will lead to such a long discussion, Thanks for your reviews, I think I can now stretch my budget a little to accomodate P80 which I would like to do. So it come at a price tag of 20K then I would really go for it. I think my ears won't be that sensitive to make the difference in Alpine 9887 and P80. I think I was warned about my budget:-)

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte (Post 885357)
No, you don't have to replace the original tray.

1. Treat the underside of the tray with a layer of Fiber-glass stuck with resin. You can do it yourself if you cannot get anyone - ask Navin to give you instructions. This will make the tray stiff
2. Add a stiffener - screw on a steel L-channel across the length of the tray on or near the seat-side edge
3. Use rubber strips on the shorter edges of the tray wherever you feel the tray is not tightly sitting

Yeah DerAlte....I can try out that stuff. I think I can take help of Navin ji on that. Another thing is I think on the door panel I could see some projections which usually are used to stop the Rear parcel tray from Jumping. I think I can add some rubber to it, such that it holds the tray more tighly in place.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vrrraju (Post 885853)
....I can try out that stuff. I think I can take help of Navin ji on that. .

3 things to keep in mind.
1. working with FRP (resin bonded fiberglass) is messy

2. since you have to wait for the layers to partly dry before adding more layers it also requires a bit of patience.

3. FRP is lighter than MDF but still has weight. I found on my wife's Corsa-Sail we had to modify the elastic bands that raised the hatch so that it could carry/support/lift the rear deck and speakers when raised. I was lucky to find some elastic cord (I used 3 cords on each side) that worked. We "machined" an adapter (we needed 2 adapters) that allowed us to connect the 3 cords (per adapter) out of some thick Polyurathene sheet we had lying around.

4. you will need a strip (about 1" wide) of sponge rubber. When the rear deck is lowered it will not fit exaclty between the rear seat, car sides and hatch door. On 3 sides (not on the hatch door) you might have an opportunity to tightenthe fit using the sponge rubber. On the edge that face the door you can use a 2mmthick x12mm wide strip of soft sponge rubber (shore hardness 35-40) on the edge of the rear deck that makes contact with the hatch door with the later is closed.

Just Installed In my brother's swift A pair of Polk components 6.5 inch(6501) in the front and a pair of 6 x 9 Polks on the parcel tray in the back not thinking bout getting any sub done ,but the definitely getting a 4 channel amp(JBL or Polk or Blaupunkt) but the rattling has started coming up even without the amp it's mostly due to the low frequency from the front components , what do u think i can do about it.please: Everything is running off a Pioneer 6050 HU

Quote:

Originally Posted by muneemmk (Post 886677)
what do u think i can do about it.please:

We have a thread on damping.

Quote:

Originally Posted by navin (Post 886676)
3 things to keep in mind.
1. working with FRP (resin bonded fiberglass) is messy

2. since you have to wait for the layers to partly dry before adding more layers it also requires a bit of patience.

3. FRP is lighter than MDF but still has weight. I found on my wife's Corsa-Sail we had to modify the elastic bands that raised the hatch so that it could carry/support/lift the rear deck and speakers when raised. I was lucky to find some elastic cord (I used 3 cords on each side) that worked. We "machined" an adapter (we needed 2 adapters) that allowed us to connect the 3 cords (per adapter) out of some thick Polyurathene sheet we had lying around.

4. you will need a strip (about 1" wide) of sponge rubber. When the rear deck is lowered it will not fit exaclty between the rear seat, car sides and hatch door. On 3 sides (not on the hatch door) you might have an opportunity to tightenthe fit using the sponge rubber. On the edge that face the door you can use a 2mmthick x12mm wide strip of soft sponge rubber (shore hardness 35-40) on the edge of the rear deck that makes contact with the hatch door with the later is closed.

Thanks Naveen ji, Yeah I have taken down the Points 1 and 2, I think point 3 is not applicable to Swift as they don't have any elastic cords to lift the rear parcel tray when the hatch door goes up. And I the easier one...I will keep you posting once done.

Hi,

Has anyone tried out the new JBL P963 Power Series? They apparently come with a crossover and stuff. How are they compared to the JBL GTO 937? I am presently using the 937s in my Swift and planning to change to the P963s. Will it make a significant difference in sound?

I have a very wierd problem with my music system. At times the rear speakers stop producing any sound and then start again. What could be the problem? A loose connection? This however happens occassionally even when the car is stationary!

Definitely loose connections somewhere.

In stationery car, the sound vibrations might be connecting and disconnecting the connections.

Few weeks back the right side speaker of my front compos used to stop producing any sound. It wierdly used to come back sometimes if I increased the volume considerably. After checking it was found that in the rainy season moisture has caused some sort of residue formation(sulphur type) on the speaker connector even though the wire connecting to it had a rubber protector.

Cleaning the connector solved the problem, we also coated the connector with little vaseline (the way we coat the battery connectors so that there is no sulphur formation)

Hi, I recently went to XENEX, Hyderabad for ICE'ng my 4 month old Swift. I went prepared for buying anything only with B&W and enquired about Pioneer 3050/4050. I was told that Pioneer 3050 is available ready along with my choice of JBL GTO 637 speakers. But, What surprised me was the price quoted. THis is way too much that what is being discussed in the forums. But since I thought, I am getting a piece of mind, I just went wih front 2 speakers and Pio 3050 for Rs 12000. The reason I did not go for components is that I felt this guy is charging a bomb from me and I want to find out from the forum before I add the components. Here is the breakup.
Components are quotes @ Rs 5200/- for JBL 607C

Pioneer 3050 UB - 8250
Speaker - 3200
MDF rings - 200
connectivity wires - 200

Total - 11850/-

Please let me know if I am charged higher or was it a fair price?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ubsmart (Post 897176)
Components are quotes @ Rs 5200/- for JBL 607C

Pioneer 3050 UB - 8250
Speaker - 3200
MDF rings - 200
connectivity wires - 200

Total - 11850/-

Please let me know if I am charged higher or was it a fair price?

Yeah, I think they have been qouted to you rightly, The retail price of GTO 637 are around 3900 bucks. Same with 607C. I checked the prices in Sprocket and they were MRP - 12% discount.

Hi Guru's,

My search for the good ICE is on-going. I want the suggestions on some of the points.

1. Which Power Amp kit (powering 4 ch and mono) should I use? I am looking for 8AWG and where can I get the Audison Connection. I need a distribution box as well. I don't want to go for normal Finolex cables rotating in a bunch. The sprocket guy is suggesting the Sosche Kit.

2. Can you please suggest me what would be the price of Pioneer P80 system in Grey market. And whether they are readily available in the market in Hyderabad.

3. What is the discount on which I can expect on JBL products, if I am going with B/W.

My installation date is decided on Tuesday and before that I need to take some more opinion before I can complete my ICE upgrade.

So waiting for your opinion.please:

hi everyone

i'm planning to ICE my new Swift pretty soon (getting it next week) and have been going through the forum and talking to some friends.

Plan so far
HU: Pioneer 4090
Front: Hertz HSK 165 components
Rear: Hertz HCX 690 co-axials
Damping on front doors only
I don't want a sub-woofer because I want to preserve my
boot space.

Very confused on the amp. Dont want to spend too much. Some people are recommending Kenwood.
Say it is good value for money and trouble free

any comments ? on Kenwood as an amp ?


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