[praveen_v]

Originally Posted by nripin

Pravin Have you Bought your stuff yet ?

Can i suggest something for you ?

4 channel GT-604 amp,GTO-607c front & GTO937 Rear

Do this After that you can start on your Craving for Bass.

By the time your are ready for Stage 2 ICE we would have more options open in the Market too.

This is only my suggestion

Let me know what you think.

Also the Later you buy the Cheaper things Get

No, I have not bought anything yet. I'm a bit stuck financially at the moment and will have to buy only after saving up.

I cannot afford a 4-ch and a Mono amp so i was planning on a Sub running from a bridged 4 amp setup. The best thing I see is to go for Infinity/Hertz/Illusion front comps which can handle more power and offer a 4ohm load

Will the infinity/Hertz/Illusion 6.5" comps go well with the JBL 75.4??

Originally Posted by JayD

Hey the fiesta petrol has a 45k discount now! So u officially have 70K for your ice!! Guys!! Start planning!!! woohoo!!

WOW... for how long?? I guess they are doing it to sell off the old one's before the facelifted one arrives. But its sad that i'm stuck at the moment and have to wait sometime before I could book one.

[nripin]

Originally Posted by praveen_v

Will the infinity/Hertz/Illusion 6.5" comps go well with the JBL 75.4??

Yes provided they are capable of taking close to 100 W RMS @ 4 ohms

I love the way you Research before buying something.

[praveen_v]

Originally Posted by nripin

Yes provided they are capable of taking close to 100 W RMS @ 4 ohms

I love the way you Research before buying something.

hehe Thanks.. Guess all I can do till i get the vitamin M is to do research.

I see that the Illusion electra EL6.1 comps handles 75W rms @4ohms.
The Infinity Kappa series 60.7cs handle 90W @4 ohms
and the Kappa perfect 6.1 handles 100W @ 4ohms
The JBL comp 607c handles 75W @ 2 ohms

I guess the Hertz comps are way off my budget. The 75.4 pushes 104W rms @ 4ohms and 142W rms @ 2ohms

Which of these will match the JBL 75.4 better and can someone let me know the price of these comps. I think I read somewhere the Illusion EL6.1 comes around 6k(not sure with or without bill) but have no idea of the rest.

[rider60]

@praveen

you see if the car in the question is the fiesta and if you dont want to spoil the stock looks, then why not take a good look at the kicker 5"X7" i think there are both coaxiaks and components available!

since you are on research till the vitamin M is totally accumulated for the kill just try this out i think you can pm gunbir for more details of places to get or get them straight away from him!

[praveen_v]

Originally Posted by rider60

@praveen
you see if the car in the question is the fiesta and if you dont want to spoil the stock looks, then why not take a good look at the kicker 5"X7" i think there are both coaxiaks and components available!

What's the model?? I cant find it on their website. and price?

The more reserch I do, the more confused i get

What are all the brands+models of 6.5" components that I can look at around the 6K mark. With or without bill.

[rider60]

Originally Posted by praveen_v

What's the model?? I cant find it on their website. and price?

The more reserch I do, the more confused i get

What are all the brands+models of 6.5" components that I can look at around the 6K mark. With or without bill.

@praveen
since you are on research till the vitamin M is totally accumulated for the kill just try this out i think you can pm gunbir for more details of places to get or get them straight away from him!

Team-BHP - View Profile: gunbir

like i said earlier you can contact gunbirji for the same, i have given you the link above of gunbir's profile go and send him a personal message for further details you should be able to get all the help and information you need!

[praveen_v]

@rider60 - Thanks for the info. I'll PM gunbir for details.

While I was thinking about this yesterday, I got another idea.
How about connecting the 2 JBL 607c's in series and connect it to the channel 1 of the 75.4 and connecting the 2 JBL937's in
series and conencting them to the channel 2 of the amp. Channel 3 and 4 will be bridged to the 12" sub.

so the setup is like,
Channel 1 - the two front 607's in series - 4ohm in total (each 607 takes 70W rms @ 2 ohms)
Channel 2 - the two rear 937's in series - 4Ohm in total (each 937 takes 100W rms @ 2 ohms)
channel 3&4 - Bridged - driving the 1202D with voice coils in series - 4Ohm in total.

The advantage I see is using the balance control, I can drive comps & sub alone with balance to full left and coax and sub
alone with balance to full right, with a decrease in sub output. Also I can drive the comps and co-ax alone with fade towards
the front fully, thereby increasing/decreasing the thump from the sub using the fade option. Also all speakers will now be
driven by the amp.

1.Now what will be the power pushed to each of the front comps and each of the rear co-axes considering that the amp gives
104W rms with a 4ohm load???

2.Is this kind of setup advisable?? any advantages/disadvantages of this kind of setup that you see?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by praveen_v

How about connecting the 2 JBL 607c's in series and connect it to the channel 1 of the 75.4 and connecting the 2 JBL937's in series and conencting them to the channel 2 of the amp. Channel 3 and 4 will be bridged to the 12" sub. ... The advantage I see is using the balance control, I can drive comps & sub alone with balance to full left and coax and sub alone with balance to full right, with a decrease in sub output. Also I can drive the comps and co-ax alone with fade towards
the front fully, thereby increasing/decreasing the thump from the sub using the fade option. Also all speakers will now be
driven by the amp.

Thalaiva, this is not the same as connecting water pipes to an overhead water tank! If you connect 2 speakers in series to one channel, you get signal of both channels in both speakers: effectively MONOAURAL sound reproduction! Is that what you want?

[praveen_v]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Thalaiva, this is not the same as connecting water pipes to an overhead water tank! If you connect 2 speakers in series to one channel, you get signal of both channels in both speakers: effectively MONOAURAL sound reproduction! Is that what you want?

hehehe. Guess I got too carried away with my thinking and I have also mis-understood the post by navin below a little bit.

Originally Posted by navin

2. Now assuming that you want to use a 75.4 to wire up 2 x 607s and 1 x 937 this is what you could do. Wire the 607s in series (+ to -) and to the front channel of the amp, leaving the rear channel of the amp to power the 937.

Mind you if you do this the image will alwys feel like it is coming from the rear (for the driver and front passenger) becuase more than half the power from the amp is being used to drive speakers behind the driver and front passenger.

So I guess I'll have to start my quest again to look for a set of components ad co-ax with 4ohm inpedance.

[navin]

Originally Posted by praveen_v

hehehe. Guess I got too carried away with my thinking and I have also mis-understood the post by navin below a little bit.

2. Now assuming that you want to use a 75.4 to wire up 2 x 607s and 1 x 937 this is what you could do. Wire the 607s in series (+ to -) and to the front channel of the amp, leaving the rear channel of the amp to power the 937.

Mind you if you do this the image will alwys feel like it is coming from the rear (for the driver and front passenger) becuase more than half the power from the amp is being used to drive speakers behind the driver and front passenger.
.

What I meant wsa this...
you amp is say 75 x 4.

When the front channel is driven 8 ohms the rear will be driven at 4 ohms. so the amp will put out more power in the rear channels. This can be fixed by adjusting the gains.

However when the front channel drives the door speakers the sonud (for the front passenger) will be coming from not only the front door but equally from the rear door (ok a bit less since the rear door is not in direct line of sight of the front passenger's ear). Add to that the sound from the rear 6x9s and the front passenger will almost always get the impression of the sound coming from behind.

[praveen_v]

Originally Posted by navin

What I meant wsa this...
you amp is say 75 x 4.

When the front channel is driven 8 ohms the rear will be driven at 4 ohms. so the amp will put out more power in the rear channels. This can be fixed by adjusting the gains.

I'm still not clear on the connection part. Say the amp is 75.4 which drives 104W @ 4 ohms and 140W @ 2 ohms. Since the GTO 607's are 2 ohms, to make it 4 ohms I thought of connecting in series and wiring it to only a single channel in the amp, say the front left channel no 1. So it is one pair of components (L+R fronts) connected in series to a single channel of the amp not two. No Components in the rear doors. and the rear 6x9's in series connected to channel 2.

How are you saying 8ohm load? from four 2ohm component speakers??

[praveen_v]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Thalaiva, this is not the same as connecting water pipes to an overhead water tank! If you connect 2 speakers in series to one channel, you get signal of both channels in both speakers: effectively MONOAURAL sound reproduction! Is that what you want?

OK. I get the monoaural part. So how will this setup sound??

Channel 1: Left side front comp + Left side rear co-ax in series
Channel 2: Right side front comp+Right side rear co-ax in series

That should give the stereo output right??

[shuvc]

Originally Posted by praveen_v

Channel 1: Left side front comp + Left side rear co-ax in series
Channel 2: Right side front comp+Right side rear co-ax in series

I run 4 x 6.5" Illusion coaxes. Front door and parcel tray.

Initially my 75.4 was driving the fronts + sub. Rears were driven by the HU. I had a problem with this. The rears were very faint. Root cause not identified.

B&T suggested I take your option. Which is how it is wired now. Left Front and Rear to Channel 1, Right Front and Rear to Channel 2,
Sub driven by bridged Channel 3 & 4.

This does produce a centre-rear sound stage, which I am ok with.

The hitch in your case is - your front speakers and rear speakers are different. I recall B&T mentioning, that this wiring configuration can ideally be done only if all speakers are identical.

[navin]

Originally Posted by praveen_v

.Since the GTO 607's are 2 ohms, to make it 4 ohms..How are you saying 8ohm load? from four 2ohm component speakers??

Ok I just used any 4 omh speaker as an example. In you case, the 607s measure close to 3 ohms. So 2 speakers in series will be 6 ohms.

Originally Posted by praveen_v

Channel 1: Left side front comp + Left side rear co-ax in series
Channel 2: Right side front comp+Right side rear co-ax in series

Yes this is what I was saying. Keep in mind that the sound from the rear (to many) does not sound very natural.

[praveen_v]

Originally Posted by navin

Yes this is what I was saying. Keep in mind that the sound from the rear (to many) does not sound very natural.

Yeah the sound stage will be from the centre-rear. I didnt think about that one . So i guess going for a Illusion EL6.1 will be better since it takes more power and offers 4Ohm impedance.

Originally Posted by shuvc

I run 4 x 6.5" Illusion coaxes. Front door and parcel tray.

Initially my 75.4 was driving the fronts + sub. Rears were driven by the HU. I had a problem with this. The rears were very faint. Root cause not identified.

That maybe because one set of compos are powered by the amp and the rear one's by HU and there will be obvious difference in the output of both and the fronts will sound much louder.

But since i'll be going for co-axes at the rear I guess I should do ok powering then from HU since the rears are only fillers. What is your HU and how much did the Illusion EL6.1's cost??

B&T suggested I take your option. Which is how it is wired now. Left Front and Rear to Channel 1, Right Front and Rear to Channel 2,
Sub driven by bridged Channel 3 & 4.

This does produce a centre-rear sound stage, which I am ok with.

The hitch in your case is - your front speakers and rear speakers are different. I recall B&T mentioning, that this wiring configuration can ideally be done only if all speakers are identical.

Hmm.. I think as long as the Impedance of both the speakers match there should not be any problems I guess.