[null]

Got this Bosch 10mm drill with bits @ metro, Blore for Rs. 1999/- (MRP: 4.2k, Street price: 3k)

http://boschathome.com/gsb_450_kit_carton.html

Ebay link: http://www.ebay.in/itm/181172780992

[Sudarshan]

^^ A standard practice nowadays it tools shops is up to 30% discounts on power tools etc, on their MRP (& list price for retail)

Bosch has started providing MRP & one can guess the discounts.

Also bit old (generation) models can be bought in good discounts if they are clearing stocks.

Sudarshan

[Sudarshan]

I am doing wiring Job for the workshop. Have constructed a board for equipment use, & while doing it made simple wood drills out of nails, to be used as the screw guide holes. Its done by hammering their ends flat & cutting the heads off.

No its not my original Idea, have learned it from the carpenters






Bit OT but thought worth sharing

This workshop board will be taking care of many appliances at one place, two phase-neutral pairs will be brought in from the source & will feed the two DP switches & they will control the half parts of the board respectively. As there is no other person to use power-tools other than me, appliances will not be run all at a time .. so no overloading issue.





Sudarshan

[Thad E Ginathom]

...made simple wood drills out of nails, to be used as the screw guide holes. Its done by hammering their ends flat & cutting the heads off.

Nice idea! I was taught to make drill bits from needles in the same way, by a jeweller.

[sukhoi]

Originally Posted by Aroy

If you are going in for long term, then I would suggest you to buy a heavy duty 13mm hammer drill. You may be spending a couple of thousand of Rupees more, but getting a much superior product.
http://www.bosch-pt.co.in/in/en/prof...gsb-13-re.html

http://www.shoppersgreed.com/product...100pcs-kit/867
http://www.shoppersgreed.com/product...pact-drill/866

EDIT : Good quality tools last a lifetime, where as inexpensive ones result in skinned knuckles and burnt out motors.

Hello All,

I have a similar requirement, get myself a drill machine to do some basic stuff around the house like putting up curtain rods, picture frames, shelves etc.

Based on reading online and in this thread, it is advisable to get a drill machine offering variable speed, reversible motion, hammer mode/function/capability, level to ensure correct drilling. Anything else we should look out for?

Am confused between Bosch & Black and Decker and also had some queries so please help.

1) How does an impact drill differ from a hammer drill or are they the same?

2) The Bosch GSB 13 RE Professional has an auxiliary handle but the toolkit for Bosch GSB 13 RE 13mm Impact Drill 100pcs Kit (link above) shows a different machine without that handle. Another kit option is http://boschathome.com/gsb_600_re_kit.html. Any help on which one is better amongst the two kits if I were to go for the kit. At the moment, I am more inclined towards the 13 RE Professional because it has an auxiliary handle (should help a beginner DIYer, if I may take the liberty of calling myself one) and a depth stopper.

3) The B&D one which I am considering is http://www.blackanddeckerindia.in/pt/kr704rek.html as it also offers aux handle, depth stop and B&D has got some good reviews on this thread as well http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shifti...mer-drill.html

A comparison on machpowertools shows that Bosch has 600 Watt Motor, weighs 2.5 KG & costs 3800 INR whereas B&D has 710 Watt Motor, weighs 4.00 KG & costs 2500 INR

Based on your experience would you recommend a more powerful (& heavier) B&D or light weight (& slightly less powerful) Bosch.

Please help.

Best,
S

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by sukhoi

... 1) How does an impact drill differ from a hammer drill or are they the same? ...

They are the same (the hammering action produces the impact )

Originally Posted by sukhoi

... 2) The Bosch GSB 13 RE Professional has an auxiliary handle but the toolkit for Bosch GSB 13 RE 13mm Impact Drill 100pcs Kit (link above) shows a different machine without that handle. ...

Are you sure the RE Pro kit didn't have the handle stowed away in a slot (like the other link)? Your "link above" leads to the drill-only page.

Originally Posted by sukhoi

... Based on your experience would you recommend a more powerful (& heavier) B&D or light weight (& slightly less powerful) Bosch. ...

I'd go for the lighter Bosch than the heavier B&D. Up on a ladder, one appreciates light tools - especially since in most cases one is doing a one-handed operation. The power doesn't matter once it crosses 1/2HP (375W; there used to be many of these earlier; nowadays 400W is the minimum), other than for drilling thick steel, which one rarely, if at all, does with DIY tools. For steel, a bench-press mounted drill is the best tool.

[sukhoi]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Are you sure the RE Pro kit didn't have the handle stowed away in a slot (like the other link)? Your "link above" leads to the drill-only page.

Thanks for the reply DerAlte. Yup, now when I cross check, the aux handle is indeed stored in the kit along with a depth stopper as well, my bad, I missed it earlier , thanks for pointing it out.

Out of two possible kits which I have shortlisted, one is the GSB 13 RE Kit (spec: http://www.indianagencies.co.in/bosch/gsb13rekit.pdf) and the other is the GSB 600 RE Kit (http://boschathome.com/gsb_600_re_kit.html). To me it seems that the GSB 13 RE Kit is having the same drill machine as GSB 13 RE professional (http://www.bosch-pt.co.in/in/en/prof...gsb-13-re.html) recommended by Aroy, since it has same impact rate 0 - 44800 bpm as against 25070 bpm in case of 600 RE Kit. I am inclined towards the GSB 13 RE Kit at the moment. Any suggestions / alternatives which should also be considered?

Is it advisable to go for a complete kit upfront or just buy the drill and selective bits as and when one needs them (any suggestions here for drill bits)?

Best,
S

[Thad E Ginathom]

I think that, if you do not already have a box or two full of assorted DIY tools, the kit makes sense. It also saves you from buying a carry case for your drill.

I don't much use the depth stop. It's a good idea but fiddly. I prefer to put a piece of tape around the drill bit to mark where I should stop drilling.

[Aroy]

Check if the sum total of the pieces in the kit if bought individually are much more than the kit price, if so then it makes sense to buy the kit. In most cases you are not only paying for all those extra bits which you will never use but also for a bigger box. In my experience unless you need all the pieces supplied in the kit, it is less expensive to buy only those individual pieces you want. Here are the bits I find most useful
A. Masonry bit - carbide tipped
. 4mm - normal length
. 6mm - normal length - most used as most plugs are this size
. 8mm - normal length
. 8mm - Long about 200mm or more for drilling through the walls
. 10mm - Long about 250mm or more for drilling through the walls
B. The bits for wood are different from those for steel.
. 6mm
. 8mm
. 12mm
. One set of hole saws : sizes between 20mm and 100mm
C. I see no use in getting bits for steel or plastic. Buy them as and when you need them

Go for the Bosch professional drill, it is built to last. B&D is a bit too heavy for sustained work (though my Wolf of 40 years vintage is even heavier as it is all steel body. The side handle is a 1/2kg pipe)

The depth stop is quite useful, especially when you drill walls. You may not want to drill beyond the length of the plug, and the stop helps.

[bejoy]

Folks,
I've got a 450W 10mm Skil Drill (supports hammer function). I need to put a hook on the concrete ceiling. I purchased the hook - the locking one and got a 10mm bit also. Question is, whether this drill is sufficient for drilling concrete, and I don't want to get a half hole done in the ceiling

[Thad E Ginathom]

If it goes half way, it'll go all the way! It's the diameter that counts, rather than the depth, unless you are really straining the drill, in which case it might start to overheat.

Unless, of course, you meet with a reinforcing bar. That'll stop most drills.

[AbhiJ]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Unless, of course, you meet with a reinforcing bar. That'll stop most drills.

If you meet with a reinforcing bar, you can actually go through very easy if you you have access to a Carbide Drill Bit - But drilling through is not recommended... weakens structure etc etc.

[Sankar]

I need to grind a lot of stainless steel tubing with wall thickness of 1.5 to 2mm. Can someone tell me if a dremel with carbide burr is enough for the job or would i need a heavy duty electric die grinder?

Originally Posted by bejoy

Folks,
I've got a 450W 10mm Skil Drill (supports hammer function). I need to put a hook on the concrete ceiling. I purchased the hook - the locking one and got a 10mm bit also. Question is, whether this drill is sufficient for drilling concrete, and I don't want to get a half hole done in the ceiling

Yes this drill will drive the 10mm bit into the concrete, i have the same and have used it on reinforced concrete but took some time.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Sankar

I need to grind a lot of stainless steel tubing with wall thickness of 1.5 to 2mm. Can someone tell me if a dremel with carbide burr is enough for the job or would i need a heavy duty electric die grinder? ...

Dremel doesn't have enough power to force through 1.5-2mm wall thickness, and a burr is only meant for, well, deburring, not drilling a hole

1. Make jig to hold the tube while drilling
2. Punch a starter with a sharp punch to prevent wandering
3. If you don't have access to a bench press drill, make sure you use both hands to steady the portable drill
4. Use carbide-tipped treated conventional bits at slow speed, and use rag dipped in water to cool the drill hole. Bits get blunt very fast if operated at high temperature

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Dremel doesn't have enough power to force through 1.5-2mm wall thickness, and a burr is only meant for, well, deburring, not drilling a hole

1. Make jig to hold the tube while drilling
2. Punch a starter with a sharp punch to prevent wandering
3. If you don't have access to a bench press drill, make sure you use both hands to steady the portable drill
4. Use carbide-tipped treated conventional bits at slow speed, and use rag dipped in water to cool the drill hole. Bits get blunt very fast if operated at high temperature

I don't want to drill a hole but grind some metal. This is the collector of my header and its not very good on the inside. I want to cut out the excess pipe and merge it as smooth as possible. With the limited space available i think only a flex shaft grinder would work. Do you think dremel is capable of smoothing this (the pipes which are not flush inside the collector) out?