[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by Eddy

Hmmm, it happens all the time and not only at the time of startup. And only at nuetral, so I suspect the clutch bearing.

Yup sounds like release bearing, dont bother if there are no other issues and tend to it when you replace the clutch. Regarding timing chain, open the hood and listen to the engine, if you hear unusual grinding or chatter sound. Time to attend.

Originally Posted by F150

Team,

I have to go for tyre rotation. Front two and Rear right tyres have done 27K kms. Rear left has done 2K kms.
=== It has 4 mended punctures.

Since the spare has 4 punctures, best to keep it there and use the rest 4 to rotate, either front to back on same side OR in a X pattern.

[Swifdeep]

Hi,

My Swift VDi (Feb 2012) is due for the 20000km service in the coming week, according to the user manual, the following replacements are recommended:

- Engine Coolant (Level, Leakage)
- Engine Oil and Engine Oil Filter
- Fuel Filter and Water Draining
- Clutch Fluid (level, leakage)
- Manual Transmission/Transfer or Differential Oil (Level, Leakage)
- Brake Fluid (Level, Leakage)

I intend to have the wheel balancing and alignment done outside, as they charged Rs. 800+ the last time (during 10k service)

Do the experts have anything else to suggest.

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by Swifdeep

Hi,

My Swift VDi (Feb 2012) is due for the 20000km service in the coming week, according to the user manual, the following replacements are recommended:
...
Do the experts have anything else to suggest.

They might include engine oil flush - refuse it outright. Nothing much more. Please do post your break up costs once done!

[ontheroad]

Dear all,
My Vdi which has clocked 35K Kms and 2 years and 9 months old, showed "weak battery" symptoms couple of days back. The engine started up fine in first crank in morning. The issue usually comes up when we restart it after driving for about an hour. If we wait for 15 mnts and crank, it starts without any issue. I thought that the battery might have gone weak and a local workshop near home also confirmed it. But before changing, i decided to show it in my usual MASS (BRD, Thrissur).

In MASS also it started up in first crank. But SA advised to recreate the situation and we restarted in many times so that at one time it didnt startup. Then they tried jump start with another battery. But still it didnt start. Now the real culprit is identified as the starter motor . They are working on it now. He told that it may not be fully faulty, a bit of cleaning will be sufficient. He suggested a tip to check if starter motor is faulty.
1) Switch off the engine 2) Put it in 4th gear 3) Push 10 cm forward 4) Put it in neutral 5) Start. If it starts, the starter motor needs cleaning.

So whoever having starting problems, please check your starter motor also.

SA also gave an advice that we should be extremely cautious if we push start diesel vehicles. He said the crack shaft will be damaged if the engine rotates in the opposite direction, if the car rollback.

[BBT]

Originally Posted by ontheroad

He suggested a tip to check if starter motor is faulty.
1) Switch off the engine 2) Put it in 4th gear 3) Push 10 cm forward 4) Put it in neutral 5) Start. If it starts, the starter motor needs cleaning.

So whoever having starting problems, please check your starter motor also.

That's something we used to do in my mom's rusty old premeier padmini :-) Brought back some embarrassing childhood memories of push starts at traffic lights when mom used to stall the car. Rocking the fiat in 4th gear used to free up the starter if it got stuck (you could actally hear the click when it would 'un'jam).

My symptom for the battery dying on my vdi was a significantly longer crank than usual. Nothing else (apart from a unusually acute dimming of the cabin lights when cranking).

[F150]

Team,
What should be the IDV of my 2010 Jan Swift Ldi.
The ex showroom price was 474000.
So for 3 years it should be - 30 % ??

Last years IDV was 410000.

Bajaj Allainz sent me a renewal quote with IDV 402000

[Swifdeep]

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

They might include engine oil flush - refuse it outright. Nothing much more. Please do post your break up costs once done!

Hi swiftnfurious,

I've just left my swift for the 20k service at Aryan Motors, Banaswadi Main Road. I have also asked them to paint the left corner of the front bumper which had bruises, this has been estimated as Rs. 1500.00 + Tax.

The overall estimate has been given as Rs. 11500.00, the breakup of the estimate has however not been given. Service advisor being Mr. Perumal

I also noticed now, that during the last (10k) service at Bimal, Mahadevpura, they have used Mobil 0W40, against the recommended 5W40.
When I asked Perumal today, if a flush would be necessary since the grade of the oil is different, he seems perplexed and suggested that the entire oil would be drained.
PS: If free please call/message me on +9198456 78979
Kindly revert ASAP, so that I can go there and have this sorted.

[Jaggu]

You don't need a flush for this change of oil. Just ensure the oil is completely drained and replaced along with new oil filter. Using 0W40 vs 5W40 will not cause any issue, check out the diesel oil thread to find the right synthetic or mineral brew for your car.

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by Swifdeep

Hi swiftnfurious,...The overall estimate has been given as Rs. 11500.00, the breakup of the estimate has however not been given...

asked Perumal today, if a flush would be necessary since the grade of the oil is different, he seems perplexed and suggested that the entire oil would be drained.

PS: If free please call/message me on...Kindly revert ASAP, so that I can go there and have this sorted.

Sorry for a late response.

Your total bill looks at par considering you use synthetic oil. With mineral oil, I get a bill of 6500/- for regular 20K service intervals. Add to it another 1500/- for painting and 2000/- odd for synthetic oil.

Regarding flush, it's already answered.

[Swifdeep]

Moderators note: Removing [Font] tags, please avoid copy pasting from external font editors. Thanks.

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

Sorry for a late response.

Your total bill looks at par considering you use synthetic oil. With mineral oil, I get a bill of 6500/- for regular 20K service intervals. Add to it another 1500/- for painting and 2000/- odd for synthetic oil.

Regarding flush, it's already answered.

Hi Swiftnfurious & Jaggu,

Thanks for the inputs. The breakup of the bill is as follows:

PARTS

Quantity

Cost

1

Air cleaner

1

226.20

2

Fuel Filter

1

1095.20

3

Oil Filter

1

328.38

4

Plug Assembly, Oil Drain

1

69.00

5

Pad Assembly Set

1

1382.53

6

Coolant (SG) Non Amine

3

615.72

7

Brake Fluid GC 1500AA (250 ML Pack)

1

135.37

8

MGGO(75W90) - SHELL

2.6

856.08

9

Synthetic Oil (5W40)

3.10

2978.17

VAT @ 14.5%

1114.57

10

Front Bumper Painting

1500.00

Service Tax - 12.36%

185.40

LABOUR

11

Paid Service

1065.00

12

Caliper Pin Greasing

180.00

13

Rear Brake Drum Both side R&R

200.00

14

Consummable check / Replacement

80.00

15

Brake Bleeding

90.00

16

Head Lamp Bulb - 1 Side (Philips - 90x100)

220.00

Service Tax on Labour - 12.36%

226.80

12548.42

- I had not asked for the break pads to be changed, but it has been done, the SA did inform me that they were worn out and hence had to be replaced, the worn out ones were not shown to me during delivery.
- The low beam of the left headlamp was not working and hence has been replaced.
- He did explain to me about Sl. No. 8, but I can't recall right now.
- Though I went there at 5 PM to take delivery, It was 7 when I got the vehicle, as painting was delayed. The paint job looks good under lights, but will want to look into this under sunlight.

Thanks again.

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by Swifdeep

...I had not asked for the break pads to be changed, but it has been done, the SA did inform me that they were worn out and hence had to be replaced, the worn out ones were not shown to me during delivery...

Thanks for the break up.

You should NOT have agreed to it. Chances are SLIM that the brake pads would have worn out at 20K. I had my Swift's first brake pad changed at 35K (usage mostly in city) and the second one lasted 55K kms (non-city).

You should have ideally taken that to another MA$$ & had a check before replacement.

[swiftnfurious]

Noticed that my idle rpm is 950 now than usual 900. What could be the issue? The rpm is steady, no vibrations, no sounds. I feel the engine is NOT as silent as it used to be right after service.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

Noticed that my idle rpm is 950 now than usual 900. What could be the issue? The rpm is steady, no vibrations, no sounds. I feel the engine is NOT as silent as it used to be right after service.

What oil have you used? And was there any other clean up done? How much the car has done? Also the RPM is without AC ON right?

You can check the air filter box for any leaks at the cover.

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

What oil have you used? And was there any other clean up done? How much the car has done? Also the RPM is without AC ON right?

You can check the air filter box for any leaks at the cover.

The car is just back after the 80,000 kms service. I have hardly driven 300 kms after the service. The engine noise was pointed to the SA who said, it's normal for a diesel. No other clean up other than normal service stuff. But the intercooler hose was replaced due to leak.

Engine oil used was Castrol, is what I am told. I cannot recollect whether the rpm was with A/C ON or not, is there any difference with A/C On & Off ?

Link to my 80,000 kms service details:: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post3019541

[BBT]

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

The car is just back after the 80,000 kms service. I have hardly driven 300 kms after the service. The engine noise was pointed to the SA who said, it's normal for a diesel. No other clean up other than normal service stuff. But the intercooler hose was replaced due to leak.

Engine oil used was Castrol, is what I am told. I cannot recollect whether the rpm was with A/C ON or not, is there any difference with A/C On & Off ?

Link to my 80,000 kms service details:: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post3019541

Normal RPM with A/C on is between 900 and 1000 (safe to assume about 950). Without A/C should be 900. Thats what I have noticed on my car.