[kabir14__]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

1. I would suggest the ISUZU 4ZB1 which is readily available and parts are not a problem. Also fitting it in the engine bay and syncing to the gear box would be comparatively easy.

2. Upper/Lower ball joints are available but most of them are aftermarket. They don't last long.

3. Consider yourself lucky if you get Steel bumpers. If available, asking price is very high.

4. Put the OE power steering kit. Would be available and fitting/performance is known and proven.

Thank you so much KkVaidya for your response.
1. I will surely look for 4zb1, if you have any location where to look for please guide me.

2. Do you think fitting a bolero/scorpio joints would be a good idea? One of the local mechanic told me to put those, since I have no idea, i have not started any work on my car.

3. The same mechanic has told me that he can get the same looking bumpers made in some workshop. Should I go for it? I think that will be cheaper and will save the Hassel.

4. Sure, Thanks!!

[kabir14__]

Originally Posted by foby.sebastian

Period interior and nice gear knob.

Hello Sebastian,
Please help me find that steering for my Contessa.
Thanks in anticipation.

[joshtronic]

Guys I could do with some help tuning the Nikki carb. I don’t want to mess around with the main screws, just the idle screw as it stalls when idling. I’ve taken a pic of the carb and need to know if the air filter has to be removed to access the screw or not.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by joshtronic

I’ve taken a pic of the carb and need to know if the air filter has to be removed to access the screw or not.

You do not need to open the Air filter. Idle screw is No. 35 in the drawing below.
You may need a stubby screw driver to do the job.

[joshtronic]

Thanks @KkVaidya, very helpful schematic for the carb

I assume this would be the idle screw? I tried tuning it but I couldn’t get it to keep idling. If the carb needs cleaning is this a wasted exercise? Also, just to confirm, when turning the screw clockwise the spring gets tightened and the screw moves in, this makes the mixture leaner or richer?

[joshtronic]

Edit: I finally got the car idling by adjusting the throttle screw, which I assume is the one I marked here. Once the car stopped stalling I adjusted the idle again till it was smooth but chose the smooth setting that was quite rich because the exhaust had more carbon soot and the throttle response was boggy in the higher revs. Now I realise I should tune it to be smooth at the most lean setting is it not? From what I tried, turning the idle screw clockwise tightens the spring and makes it leaner.

[Vintagesoul]

Dear Joshtronic, please lock the idle mixture screw clockwise till it seats fully , the engine will stammer and try to loose control as you near the fully seating position . Then you will need to open the screw by 3.5 turns (one turn is 360 degrees) provided you use the original Idle mixture screw . You have to use an RPM meter to set the RPM to 700 ( idle speed screw ) as specified by the factory instruction .
Then you have to open the idle mixture screw by a few degrees ( may be 1/4 to 1/6 of a turn ) to obtain maximum RPM . For example , your previous set RPM at 700 may increase to 800 and that will be your peak setting , now you have to reset your RPM back to 700. Please note , turning Idle mixture screw clockwise weakens the mixture where as turning it anti-clockwise enriches the fuel mixture .

[joshtronic]

Hi Vintagesoul, would love to set this to factory. I’ll try and source an rpm meter and learn how to use it. However could you please tell me what the throttle adjust screw is for? Earlier the car had a rough idle and stalled if the accel pedal wasn’t depressed slightly. I initially thought the idle screw would fix this so I tuned it and it didn’t help. However turning the throttle adjust screw clockwise brought up the revs and it stopped stalling, after which now I have to tune the idle screw.

Originally Posted by Vintagesoul

You have to use an RPM meter to set the RPM to 700 ( idle speed screw ).

From what little tuning I did yesterday, should I be adjusting the throttle screw to get that base rpm of 700? That is after doing the 3 and an half turns of the idle screw. And then the idle screw 1/6 to 1/4 open after getting 700 rpm. And then maybe the throttle screw again in case revs go beyond 700?

Originally Posted by Vintagesoul

please lock the idle mixture screw clockwise till it seats fully

When the screw started offering resistance I didn’t want to turn further too much. However I assume it needs to be turned till it stops to seat it fully.

Also, all of this has to be done on a hot engine is it not? And is it okay for the temperature gauge to never move much beyond C? The fuel and speedo work fine and the temperature gauge does show some little movement. But I’m wondering if I need to check the thermostat. Feeling the lower hose from the radiator after a drive should give me some idea right? If the thermostat is locked open the coolant will be lukewarm

[Vintagesoul]

Hi Joshtronic , please observe the following points ,

1) There are two screws to adjust , one is the idle speed screw and the other one is Idle mixture screw ( commonly called as Air screw ) .

2) The idle speed screw is adjusted to set the engine speed ( RPM )

3) The Idle mixture screw defines the air - Fuel proportion (1:14.7) fuel to air ratio ,you can set this more precisely using a vacuum gauge connected to the inlet manifold . The 3.5 turns from fully seated position is just the base reading for Contessa Nikki carburettor.

4) All these adjustments should be done in engine running in optimum temperature .

5) Please check your ignition timing to 6 +/- 1 degree with distributor advance hoses disconnected and plugged .

Supposing all these are checked , you may get a clean drive .

[joshtronic]

Thanks for clarifying @Vintagesoul, I thought the idle mixture and idle speed screws were the same. Now I've understood quite clearly your instructions to tune the carburettor to stock setup. Just a couple of doubts:

Originally Posted by Vintagesoul

The Idle mixture screw defines the air - Fuel proportion (1:14.7) fuel to air ratio

I understood this for the idle mixture screw. I assume this would have a bearing on later throttle input as well. What I wanted to ask was what exactly does the idle speed screw control, is it a spring that acts similar to the throttle to take up idle revs, or is it a separate system that also affects throttle input later?

[Vintagesoul]

Originally Posted by joshtronic

Edit: I finally got the car idling by adjusting the throttle screw, which I assume is the one I marked here. Once the car stopped stalling I adjusted the idle again till it was smooth but chose the smooth setting that was quite rich because the exhaust had more carbon soot and the throttle response was boggy in the higher revs. Now I realise I should tune it to be smooth at the most lean setting is it not? From what I tried, turning the idle screw clockwise tightens the spring and makes it leaner.

Dear Joshtronic , as shown in the picture above ( that you have pointed) is the idle speed screw.

The vacuum hose seems not to be connected , it’s called the ported vacuum which is found near to the idle mixture screw .

This vacuum line needs to be connected to the top of the distributor. It provides necessary vacuum advance so that the distributor advances the timing .

We will take this as a separate chapter once your idle mixture and idle speed is set .

The intention of me mentioning about the missing vacuum hose it may leak engine vacuum when your throttle is open and hence you will not get proper AFR at high speeds and it will not give necessary advance in timing hence loosing power.

[joshtronic]

Originally Posted by Vintagesoul

We will take this as a separate chapter once your idle mixture and idle speed is set .

Thanks Vintagesoul, I very much appreciate the guidance. I’ve only had the car for a few months and am finally beginning to sort out the niggling issues one by one. I will let you know how the carburettor tuning goes and will try and get the missing vacuum hose.

Just a quick question regarding the AC gas, is it okay to use R134a? The car has the original Sanden compressor I believe. It’s a 1988 model.

[Vintagesoul]

Dear Joshtronic ,
you can fill R134A refrigerant and a good AC mechanic will be able to fix it for you.

You may need to service the blower and check the system for leaks which the AC mechanic will do it.

Please make sute you fix an auto relay for your compressor if it does not have one when you visit the AC mechanic .

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by joshtronic

Just a quick question regarding the AC gas, is it okay to use R134a? The car has the original Sanden compressor I believe. It’s a 1988 model.

As far as I know, HM started offering factory fitted AC post 1993. So yours probably would be an aftermarket affair. Please check with your AC specialist as the refrigerant would depend on the compressor compatibility. Unicla-Sanden had both types; R12 and R134a. The older ones had R12.

[joshtronic]

Originally Posted by Vintagesoul

Dear Joshtronic, please lock the idle mixture screw clockwise till it seats fully , the engine will stammer and try to loose control as you near the fully seating position . Then you will need to open the screw by 3.5 turns (one turn is 360 degrees) provided you use the original Idle mixture screw .

I tried locking the idle mixture screw today but the engine didn't lose control. The screw wouldn't turn anymore and I didn't force it. I then did the 3 1/2 turns and it became quite smooth but the smoke has a stronger smell of petrol than when it's fully seated and a little more colour too. I then did little less than 1/4th more to get the highest revs and tuned the idle speed screw a little lower. The drive seemed smooth but lacked punch in the mid and higher range. This is still far from perfect as I didn't use an rpm meter and as you pointed out the vacuum hose is missing. But till I find a good mechanic the Sunday drive is the only thing keeping it going. Also fuel seems to leak around the screws as seen in the pic. Is that okay? Also is there anyway to tell if these are the original screws as I remember you said that is important too.

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

As far as I know, HM started offering factory fitted AC post 1993. So yours probably would be an aftermarket affair.

This is the pic of the condenser. I did a little googling and found the SD507 seems to be rated for R12 gas. I'll check with my AC mechanic if any conversion kits are present but it doesn't look like it. If it is an aftermarket affair the interior vents are incorporated into the dash and not the standalone below dash unit I've seen on some Ambys and Contessas.

Another thing I noticed on the drive was the car seemed to be lacking grease, coming to a standstill really easily and difficult to move even downhill, plus a little squeaking. It would be really helpful if I could get some guidance on the grease points of this car?

Just another quick question about the wipers, I have the arms with the bayonette style straight end but it didn't fit in a Hella adapter, in the pic it doesn't go further in and lock. I was thinking I'll try a RainX adapter and see. But is there a simpler more economical option of sourcing compatible blades? Because both these companies are on the pricier side.