[ebonho]

Ricci Max power is at 10000 rpm and Peak torque at 8000 rpm, so am thinking of setting rpm1 to 7500 rpm so that the shift (with some reaction overrun to the red light spotted peripherally) happens at the point the bike makes peak torque.

Continuing to pull anywhere higher than that in the same gear would likely lead to diminishing returns acceleration-wise. Am I on the right track?

I somehow cannot see myself pulling 10000 rpm in each gear. 7500-8000 on this rev happy motor comes up easier and does not sound as violent ....

Also, I don't think you can actually program the onboard computer with different shift light rpms for different gears so its a crude indicator at best and just an add-on to seat of pants/ears.

The other thing I wanted to ask the guys here is, and this is for those who have finished runin/first service of course , at what rpm in 6th does the bike max out (135+)?

I realise that the black worm and tiny numbers are not the easiest to see, especially not when hurtling down a public road at 135+, but approximate position of black worm would do!

The rpm display is a serious waste - would have been so much better to have a nice big round dial with fat needle instead.

[Ricci]

Ah, so you're trying to surf the torque curve than accelerate as fast as you can, am I getting it right ? If you're shifting at 5.5k you're shifting very early, just as the engine is getting to the meatier part of its rev range. The sound will change as it gets there , and louder I presume, so I guess you want to shift just before it starts getting to that stage ?

My folly , I shouldn't have expected a Bulleteer to want to rev to 5 digit RPM


EDIT : Doc, I was referring to your post on previous page about shifting at 5.5k . Of course if you want to surf the torque curve, shifting at or just past the peak torque is where it's at ; though depending on mood/hurry , you might shift well before the torque peak , that's sort of my usual commute/city riding ( on the 220 , apply respective shift point for the Duke ).

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Ricci

Ah, so you're trying to surf the torque curve than accelerate as fast as you can, am I getting it right ? If you're shifting at 5.5k you're shifting very early, just as the engine is getting to the meatier part of its rev range. The sound will change as it gets there , and louder I presume, so I guess you want to shift just before it starts getting to that stage ?

My folly , I shouldn't have expected a Bulleteer to want to rev to 5 digit RPM

Your Bull-bias is getting in the way of your reading comprehension bro.

I am talking about shifting at around 8000 rpm. Please re-read the part where I'm talking of setting the shift light at 7500 rpm.

Acceleration is a function of Torque, top speed of Power.

Yes, you are right about surfing the torque wave - but not at the start of the wave but just at the point it begins to drop off.

Revving beyond that point is possible in the same gear - though you won't be going any faster in a hurry.

So in effect, by surfing the crest of the torque wave, you should be accelerating as fast as possible. Correct?

P.S. For a bike that has miniscule torque compared to a Bullet, the baby Duke has a really nice usable roll-on spread of power in every gear. Even if you're under the optimum revs (like when a Bulleteer wants to chill and relax astride a Duke ) it spools up and gets up to revs and starts singing pretty quickly and easily.

REPLY EDIT: That "shift" at 5500 rpm was what the company guys set rpm1 to during the first 1000 km run-in period, with rpm2 set 500 revs before the recommended run-in limit of 7500 rpm.

At close to 2000 kms now, I have no personal compunctions in pulling this bike like she's meant to be - just that pulling to the 10000 point is neither required nor optimal, unless just to get into the 5 digit brownie points club!

[samschenker]

Notice something weird in the last couple of days

- Engine gets hot sooner than earlier riding in traffic.
- Once the radiator fan kicks-in (somewhere about a bar or two on the lower temperature gauge) the horn sounds weak, has anyone faced this?

What worries me is not how the horn sound but does the weak sounding horn mean battery is getting drained faster than what it should?

[ebonho]

Horn going weak was happening to me earlier when horn pressed continuously for particularly stubborn traffic in front. Did bring it to the notice of the Bajaj guys. Suggest you do the same. It maybe something touching the horn internally as well.

[n_aditya]

Originally Posted by samschenker

Once the radiator fan kicks-in (somewhere about a bar or two on the lower temperature gauge) the horn sounds weak, has anyone faced this?

What worries me is not how the horn sound but does the weak sounding horn mean battery is getting drained faster than what it should?

Off late, i have been facing this issue on my ninja. The horn used to sound weak on rare occasions earlier but off late its more prominent. The battery was checked on the fourth service at 20,000 kms and it was healthy so it must be a dying horn.

Me thinks the horn supplied with these bikes is generally of low quality. I would advise you to check the battery and if its fine, replace with a horn from a reputed manufacturer.

[NikhilB]

@ebono

After some sniffing around on my bike, have some observations.

After a full tank top-up, there is a distinct petrol smell that comes from the filler cap.

This smell disappears after the bike is parked overnight.

Smell reappears at the filler cap after riding the bike for some time. (Was quite prominent by the time I reached office - 15 kms in city traffic)

Noticed this repeatedly for 60 kms since my last full-tank.

Can any other owner confirm if they observe the same?

Secondly, is this "normal"? (Haven't seen it in any of my previous bikes)

Apologies for the

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by NikhilB

@ebono

After some sniffing around on my bike, have some observations.

After a full tank top-up, there is a distinct petrol smell that comes from the filler cap.

This smell disappears after the bike is parked overnight.

Smell reappears at the filler cap after riding the bike for some time. (Was quite prominent by the time I reached office - 15 kms in city traffic)

Noticed this repeatedly for 60 kms since my last full-tank.

Can any other owner confirm if they observe the same?

Secondly, is this "normal"? (Haven't seen it in any of my previous bikes)

Apologies for the

Basically, it all points to fuel overflowing from the drain pipe. On standing, the overflow happens, a stable level is reached, the overflow evaporates, and smell disappears. Then you ride the bike, bank it left and right. Fuel again overflows, and this keeps happening till the level goes below a certain level by usage + overflow.

[samschenker]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Horn going weak was happening to me earlier when horn pressed continuously for particularly stubborn traffic in front. Did bring it to the notice of the Bajaj guys. Suggest you do the same. It maybe something touching the horn internally as well.

Thanks Doc, will report this when I go for the first service this weekend.

Originally Posted by n_aditya

Off late, i have been facing this issue on my ninja. The horn used to sound weak on rare occasions earlier but off late its more prominent. The battery was checked on the fourth service at 20,000 kms and it was healthy so it must be a dying horn.

Me thinks the horn supplied with these bikes is generally of low quality. I would advise you to check the battery and if its fine, replace with a horn from a reputed manufacturer.

The battery seems to be fine as there was no battery low warning on the console & never faced any problem with the headlamp or any other electrical issues. Its just the horn sound which deteriorates

Originally Posted by NikhilB

Can any other owner confirm if they observe the same?

I have been facing the same issue, its more prominent around the fuel cap & the bottom of RHS tank scoop where the fuel over flow tube is.

[shreeda]

Some more updates post 1000Km from my side. Front suspension seems just perfect now. Neither too stiff, nor too soft. No coolant/fuel spills whatsoever. My guess is that they have taken care of coolant spills without informing me. Regarding fuel, I think I myself am a little cautious.

And either the seat or my rear is broke-in, so no trouble with the seat either

Regarding weak horn symptoms, I suspect that culprit is the horn. Weak battery would affect the cranking and lighting as well, wouldn't it?

[NikhilB]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Basically, it all points to fuel overflowing from the drain pipe. On standing, the overflow happens, a stable level is reached, the overflow evaporates, and smell disappears. Then you ride the bike, bank it left and right. Fuel again overflows, and this keeps happening till the level goes below a certain level by usage + overflow.

Understood.

Going back to my earlier question, is it intentional? or is it a design defect?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by NikhilB

Understood.

Going back to my earlier question, is it intentional? or is it a design defect?

Allow me to answer your question with a question.

Why would a manufacturer intentionally set out to design a fuel tank that drains fuel in any other direction other than the combustion chamber ?

Assuming normal operating conditions of course. Bike falling over and over-filling (beyond the brim) not being included.

[ebonho]

So I've been reading up on the snorkel mod done by us and it seems most KTM riders do it. The gains if any are questionable, and like most mods, there are arguments for and against.

Here are a couple of interesting "for" links I found:

Small mod done to Duke / SM airbox

Duke airbox mod dyno results - dont be afraid to mod your bike

Since the snorkel is detachable, and hence a totally reversible mod, it would be really intersting to do back to back Dyno runs on the same bike with snorkel and without snorkel, making sure that the ECU/EFI and O2 sensor is compensating and keeping the A/F ratio within a constant/compensatable range.

I haven't had the chance to check top speed differences if any, but the throttle response is better, the bike revs easier/quicker, and the induction sound is pretty nice.

But in the absence of good Dyno data, it could all well be "attributional bias" at play

[Dragonheart22]

Anybody facing issues with coolant comsumption yet! Moving from an RE, I am very particular about checking Engine Fluid levels regularly. That is why when I went to the Dealer warehouse to choose my Duke, I had specifically opted for the one with high (max) coolant level. The coolant level was varying throughout the bikes, some even sporting min levels! Some had Coolant Leakage marked on them!!! Now after 200 odd km, the level has come down halfway between max. and min. I am afraid I have to carry with me a Coolant bottle to refill over this weekend's run-in ride But more importantly, IS THIS NORMAL?
Also I have observed fizzing (bubbles) in the oil through the oil-reservoir window! I dont want to say what I am thinking here :(

[n_aditya]

Originally Posted by Dragonheart22

Anybody facing issues with coolant comsumption yet! But more importantly, IS THIS NORMAL?
Also I have observed fizzing (bubbles) in the oil through the oil-reservoir window! I dont want to say what I am thinking here :(

Most likely the coolant is leaking. Check for leaks on the coolant reservoir, hose pipes, radiator, etc.

I only had to top up the coolant level on my ninja at the 10,000 kms mark, not earlier.

Confused about the oil issue you have mentioned. Did you notice this when the engine was cold or after a ride? Haven't come across such an issue on my bike. Does your temp gauge stay within the suggested markings?