[surjaonwheelz]

Hi Torino,

I got the light smoked version. It was sukiwa again, who told me about this in March. Initially we ordered the clear one but then changed to light smoked which I think complements the Ravishing Red combination.



Regarding the DIY, sukiwa & I took almost 2.5 hours as we had to remove the RE "Tall" fly screen which needed to remove the indicators whose wiring was in the headlight assembly. Refitting the indicators was a test of patience as there was very little room to turn the spanner!



As for the windshield assembly, I assembled it offline and then did the on bike assembly together as an extra experienced pair of hands and eyes were very much needed. We referred the first DIY video on YouTube by 'TheMotorcycleMonk' which helped us. The rod mounts on the handlebar was tricky but the trick was to apply some lubricant/grease to ease the sliding movement of the plastic holders. Overall DIY was fun and effective.



With lockdown re-imposed in Pune, I couldn't take the bike for a longer spin to see the effectiveness on highways. I would go with Torino's feedback!



Keep revvin'
surjaonwheelz

[timuseravan]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

I got the light smoked version. It was sukiwa again, who told me about this in March. Initially we ordered the clear one but then changed to light smoked which I think complements the Ravishing Red combination.

The smoked one is looking great with Ravishing Red. Where did you get it from?

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by timuseravan

The smoked one is looking great with Ravishing Red. Where did you get it from?

Both of us didn't mention the link. It's from Carbon Racing website, go with the stainless-steel rods.

Coming to the imperfections, there's a slight protrusion on the outer side at the centre. This is where the liquid goes in the mould. By using masking tape, I sanded it down to a smooth finish. Need to apply a small sticker at the centre of the windshield.

Due to the moulding process, some edges are sharp and have fine extensions. I cut them off with a cutter carefully, can be further smoothened by sand paper. In addition, the holes on the shield were closed which can easily be opened up by a screw driver. Don't over tighten the plastic parts, just go with your gut feeling.

At the price offered it's a great product with it's virtually unbreakable polycarbonate shield. But if it doesn't break, something else will break to dissipate the energy in case of the unforeseen. The mounting rods positioning is a bit of personal preference as to where you want it in symmetry. I had to remove the stock handle bar brace rod to tighten windshield mounts. Then fixed it back.

In a nutshell, go for it if you're looking for a windshield for your Interceptor.

/surjaonwheelz

[Torino]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

Initially we ordered the clear one but then changed to light smoked which I think complements the Ravishing Red combination.

Originally Posted by timuseravan

The smoked one is looking great with Ravishing Red. Where did you get it from?

Agree 100%. The light smoked windshield matches the ravishing red Interceptor more than any other. I ordered the clear windshield cause I thought a tinted one will create a blindspot especially when riding in the dark and also matches the boring silver spectre.

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

Coming to the imperfections, there's a slight protrusion on the outer side at the centre. This is where the liquid goes in the mould. By using masking tape, I sanded it down to a smooth finish. Need to apply a small sticker at the centre of the windshield.The mounting rods positioning is a bit of personal preference as to where you want it in symmetry. I had to remove the stock handle bar brace rod to tighten windshield mounts.

This protrusion in the centre is not easily seen in the Clear windshield so I left it as it is. As for the mounting rods, I was suggested by fellow riders in the RE650 whatsapp group that I have to change its position in order to point the rods away from the rider due to safety reasons but I am yet to do this though.

[Torino]

So I've managed to clock slightly over 200kms in the past 2 months and most of it coming from the occasional office commute and here is quick feedback on the Vesrah ceramic brake pads and the Carbon racing windshield. The brake pads and the windshield are now 200 kms and 100 kms old respectively and the roads with lesser traffic meant I was able to exploit their potential to a fair bit. Firstly the ceramic brake pads, well its not fair to comment so early without allowing the pads to complete their bed-in process during the initial 500 kms but to give a perspective, the brakes feel absolutely fine and I cannot say they underperform when cold or wet, they perform in a similar manner to the stock brakes in both stopping distance and feedback at the levers. Coming to the windshield, I think it is one of the essential accessory for the Interceptor and I see several reasons why. Well firstly it doesn’t look out of place on the Interceptor no matter which way you look at it, not too large or small and blends with the rest of the motorcycle. The quality of the components feels good and sturdy and could last for the next 5 years while exposed to different environment and climate conditions. Then comes the cost which I think is inexpensive for anyone looking for a windshield and finally, it works! I like the way if deflects wind and masks speed after 100 kmph and the four point support makes it feels rigid while doing so. My height for reference is 5.7ft and with the current set up I could feel the wind slicing over the top of my helmet. It shouldn’t cause any issue for riders over 6ft as well since the setup allows to be adjusted for angle and deflect wind at a higher level.

Current ODO reads slightly over 11100kms and there are couple of issues I need to sort out by visiting the service centre in the coming weeks. Firstly the tappet noise has increased and gets louder after a longer ride as the engine gets properly warmed up. This could be mainly because the tappet clearance is not adjusted since the time I bought the bike. Secondly there is a significant amount of handlebar wobble around 90kmph when ridden with one hand and since this is a common issue on the Interceptor there are several areas to be checked to solve the issue and most of it being a trial and error method, while some might get lucky by randomly checking any one of the source area. Also the rear wheel needs truing as well as observed and reported by a stranger in traffic and confirmed by a friend.

Below is the list of possible checks in no particular order, based on the feedback from fellow riders running completely stock bikes without any handlebar raisers, no tubeless conversion and no tyre sealant. Note, the below list is primarily and obviously for the front wheel.

1.Check and adjust the torque on the steering head bearing below the top triple clamp
2.Wheel truing - which some say it needs to be done every 5000kms for the Interceptor
3.Check Alignment and wheel balancing of those Aluminium wheels.
4.Defective tyre – there are several users who replaced the front tyre under warranty and solved the wobbling issue.
5.Tyre pressure – Depending on the rider’s height and weight the tyre pressure needs to be reduced by 1 or 2 psi’s to get it right.
6.Removing and refitting the wheel – This may sound simple but this indeed has solved the wobbling issue for some.

I like the see through visibility from this non smoked clear windshield during the night.


Liked this wide angle photo.


A small collage from different angles.

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by Torino

Coming to the windshield, I think it is one of the essential accessory for the Interceptor and I see several reasons why. Well firstly it doesn’t look out of place on the Interceptor no matter which way you look at it, not too large or small and blends with the rest of the motorcycle. The quality of the components feels good and sturdy and could last for the next 5 years while exposed to different environment and climate conditions. Then comes the cost which I think is inexpensive for anyone looking for a windshield and finally, it works!

Hi Torino,

Just noticed that the windshield is the only external accessory on your steed! You don't even have any crash guard and you seem to have given up on the RE sump guard.

Great feedback on the windshield

How are your tyre tread depth at 11k kms? My handlebar is stock but I'm going to put risers soon, after reading your post I'm skeptical now!

You've kept a very good stock bike and clocked up decent miles. Hope your issues are ironed out by RE. Keep us posted.

/surjaonwheelz

[Torino]

Ah yes the bike is completely in factory condition right from the beginning until I installed the windshield. Only the sump guard interested me from the RE accessories list but it was never in stock until I kept following the local dealer for few months and finally gave up. To be honest I am very rational when I think of getting an accessory for this bike and the primary reason is me still being a bit apprehensive about the infamous RE reliability by installing some of these accessories. And also a bit confused because the way I see it, I think most of the 650 twin owners have upgraded from other REs and hence they are already familiar with aftermarket exhausts, LED headlights, bar end lights, aux lights, seats, wheels, crash guards, luggage carriers etc and so they are quick in deciding what they want. Whereas me being a first time RE owner didn’t quite clearly understand the unending list of aftermarket accessories, its purpose and where to begin except for the sump guard. May be I just need more time.

I've heard mixed reviews about the relationship between handlebar raisers and wobbling. My observation is to be on the safer side. You should talk to users and take the call. You can also consider taller handlebar as an option.

As for the tyres, I did a quick coin test and it looks like there is another ~2.5mm of thread depth left before it goes bald in another 1500kms may be?. The wear indicator is about 1mm below the tyre surface. Its about time to start looking for a new rear tyre and since I prefer stock size 130/70/R18, I think I have to choose from Pirelli, Metzeler, Timsun & Ralco.

Rear tyre: Thats ~2.5mm of thread depth available at 11100kms.


Rear tyre: Notice the wear indicator circled in red.


Front tyre: Looks to have double the thread than rear tyre.

[neil.jericho]

That Carbon Racing screen looks to be very effective indeed! I have the much smaller Givi windscreen on my Continental GT 535 and it is pretty useful in managing the air flow. I can only imagine how useful the Carbon Racing one is, barring its slight visibility distortion. I love the price as well.

The only thing that is slightly concerning is the length of the support stems that are protruding out a lot and could be a safety hazard! Could they be shortened or angled away or something? I remember seeing a Kawasaki Z650 here with a similar setup on a fly screen and I was suggesting the same workarounds to the rider to keep things safe.

[Torino]

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

I can only imagine how useful the Carbon Racing one is, barring its slight visibility distortion.

Yes, absolutely. Thought distortion doesn't get your attention once on the move, I mean it doesnt create any sort of blindspot but quite the opposite when you are at standstill.

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

The only thing that is slightly concerning is the length of the support stems that are protruding out a lot and could be a safety hazard! Could they be shortened or angled away or something? I remember seeing a Kawasaki Z650 here with a similar setup on a fly screen and I was suggesting the same workarounds to the rider to keep things safe.

Well thats just me being plain lazy. So today I managed to drag my lazy bum and relocated the support stems to point away from the rider as much as possible. Right now the wind blast hits me right at the centre of my helmet and I prefer this position (angle of the windshield) since it looks better aesthetically. And once I set the windshield right the stems will be pulled futher inside and will not be protruding this much but thats when I get to ride farther after the lockdown. In the meantime I've managed to do some early morning short rides away from civilization and inched the ODO passed 11500 kms mark.

[Torino]

Couple of things I've improvised from the lockdown and work from home lifestyle is to do a early morning ride on any day of the week and to explore trails along the B-roads. Love the way the motorcycle chugs along like a tractor when going over ruts, mud and small rocks with engine ticking just above idle rpm. So far I've managed not to drop the motorcycle anywhere which is my only serious concern, not that I'm afraid of breaking anything on the motorcycle but I'm sure I wont be able to lift it up single handedly. The ODO has crossed 12,200 kms and all is good except for the Engine Check light which pops up at lease once a day and goes off after couple of minutes. Couldn't figure out why the light comes up so decided to ignore it since it goes off quickly.

[FettyG]

Hi All,
I have just completed 6 months with my motorcycle and my owner's manual mentions that the second service was 5000km/6months. I've only completed about 2,000km in the last 6 months and the service center person told me the second free service is after 12 months. I'm not sure who is right here - the service booklet or the service center personnel.

[KarthikK]

Originally Posted by FettyG

Hi All,
I have just completed 6 months with my motorcycle and my owner's manual mentions that the second service was 5000km/6months. I've only completed about 2,000km in the last 6 months and the service center person told me the second free service is after 12 months. I'm not sure who is right here - the service booklet or the service center personnel.

The second service at 5000km/6 months interval is just an inspection service and more of a formality. There is no oil change done in that. If you have no issues and don’t need any adjustments, you can choose to skip and go at the 12th month due date directly

[FettyG]

Originally Posted by KarthikK

The second service at 5000km/6 months interval is just an inspection service and more of a formality. There is no oil change done in that. If you have no issues and don’t need any adjustments, you can choose to skip and go at the 12th month due date directly

Oh. This makes perfect sense. So, I guess both the booklet and the service personnel is right here

Also, I was facing a couple of things that I wasn't sure if it's inherent with the bike or a genuine issue:

1. Gear shifting is very rough. I'm fairly sure-footed when changing gears, but I feel like there is a lot of resistance when changing from 2nd to 3rd. I've heard large capacity (>500cc) bikes do make "thud" noises when moving from neutral to 1st, but never heard about it through the other transitions. The service technician said it's normal but I'm hoping there's a fix for this.
2. I get false neutrals when moving from 4th to 5th very often. Is this something that gets better after a while? Like I said, I've clocked in 1700km so far. I'm scared that I haven't been riding it very often due to reasons beyond the scope of this thread.
3. I'm hearing an increase in the tappet noise. I'm not sure if it's in my head or it's something to be concerned about.

This my first self-owned motorcycle (as opposed to the pulsar 200 my older brother handed down to me) so I'm trying my best to make sure I don't screw up the maintenance.

[dinu2506]

Originally Posted by FettyG

[*]Gear shifting is very rough. I'm fairly sure-footed when changing gears, but I feel like there is a lot of resistance when changing from 2nd to 3rd. I've heard large capacity (>500cc) bikes do make "thud" noises when moving from neutral to 1st, but never heard about it through the other transitions. The service technician said it's normal but I'm hoping there's a fix for this.[*]I get false neutrals when moving from 4th to 5th very often. Is this something that gets better after a while? Like I said, I've clocked in 1700km so far. I'm scared that I haven't been riding it very often due to reasons beyond the scope of this thread.

Have you checked the clutch free play? A more than normal cable slack can often lead to the clutch not fully disengaging when you pull the lever, resulting in difficulties in changing gears. You can try tightening the cable using the rotary adjuster (counter clockwise ) at the clutch lever. Make sure yo do not overtighten it to the extent that there is no free play. Keep the free play at around 3-4mm so that the clutch disengages fully when you pull the lever and fully engages when you release.

[FettyG]

Originally Posted by dinu2506

Have you checked the clutch free play? A more than normal cable slack can often lead to the clutch not fully disengaging when you pull the lever, resulting in difficulties in changing gears. You can try tightening the cable using the rotary adjuster (counter clockwise ) at the clutch lever. Make sure yo do not overtighten it to the extent that there is no free play. Keep the free play at around 3-4mm so that the clutch disengages fully when you pull the lever and fully engages when you release.

I actually have checked the freeplay, it's around 1cm, I guess. What is the normal slack most people have. I assumed 1-1.5cm is about adequate. What do you think?