[hikozaru]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Paddock stand is not the correct way.

Cheers, Doc

What is the correct way? Paddock stand is as close you can get to a centre stand no?

Originally Posted by scarn

Update: Went to the SVC, and they said that the amount written in the Owner's manual is not correct. There is no way a 390 will take the same amount of oil as a 250, and the oil levels are correct. Furthermore, they said 300ml is a lot of extra oil in a 400cc engine, and there is no way I could've ridden 500 KM without any issues arising from overfilling. It does look OK when put into a paddock stand too, which gives me more confidence.

I also see 1.5L in the owner's manual. As long as the oil level is between min and max (RE service centres err on the side of min) on a cold start, I wouldn't mind. Otherwise my OCD brain would strongly consider pulling off some oil with a syringe. I guess Bajaj is too busy dealing with Triumphs to care about KTM these days.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by hikozaru

What is the correct way? Paddock stand is as close you can get to a centre stand no?

Exactly what is written in the manual, exerpt attached by me in my previous post.

Is a paddock stand a horizontal surface?

Cheers, Doc

[scarn]

I think paddock will elevate the back portion of the bike which will make the oil level to change compared to what it would be if the bike is on a leveled plane.

[kedar3223]

Is the 820mm seat height spacer available with the service centre? Has anyone seen it and able to explain the cost and how it fits and works?

[camitesh]

The oil overfilling issue unfortunately may be real. I too noted the oil almost too easily touching the max oil limit mark post my first service but discarded of any overfill notion for some reason since I’m new to KTMs and their ways. I had a lot of oil leakage post my service on a long ride as referred in this post (2024 KTM Duke 390 Review) but still the oil level is comfortably above the median oil levels. This makes me feel there was potentially more oil than required to begin with.

My work travel schedule couldn’t let me visit the KTM service to fix this oil leak issue yet. But the good thing is there’s no performance issue, malfunction indicator etc. whatsoever even after 3k kms of service but I ought to have this checked ASAP with SVC

[ebonho]

I know technology has gone up in various spheres over 10+ years of the 390's evolution, but oil is a basic need of any engine, and if the new 390 is a bigger engine that the old 373 cc mills, I simply cannot believe that it requires lesser engine oil.

In the end, the simplest 5 min fix to this entire issue is to go and drain your engine, into a clean container, amd measure the exact volume in a graduated flask.

If your heart does not allow you to put rhat oil back into the brand new engine, then for tour peace of mind spend a thousand odd bucks and put fresh oil of the correct volume back into the engine and then over the next couple of thousand kilometres track the level in the sight window.

Treat it as a break'in fresh engine oil replacement (am careful not to use the word flush). And change the oil filter too while you are at it.

Long back when I had start up smoking issues I had done this. And found the oil level drained was perfect. Then after a series if back n forth emails with the R&D boffins in Bajaj I learned that this was normal in the 390s (linked to cold starts and the step-up motor), and not seen (so regularly) in the 200s. At that time there were no 125s and 250s.

Hope this helps the new worried owners. The KTMs are built tough. To be thrashed. A little extra oil (if at all) is not going to kill them.

Cheers, Doc

[neil.jericho]

I took a test ride of the new KTM Duke 399 and I have to admit that the hype is real. Long term enthusiasts are used to dealing with the typical hyperbole when a new performance motorcycle gets launched. After the tamed but pleasing BS6 373cc versions were launched, it felt as though KTM had lost a bit of their original orange magic. All that is now but a distant memory. The tractability of the new 399 engine makes this a fun little motorcycle that is more BS3 than BS6 in nature.

While the RCs ergonomics are much more comfortable for a rider like me, the Duke's typical ergos take some getting used to. Some panel gaps could be better but overall, it feels like you are getting an entertaining motorcycle for your money.

If only the Electronic Orange wasnt so, what is the word that Im looking for, orange .... and the Atlantic Blue wasnt so, what is the word that Im looking for, inconspicuous!

[kedar3223]

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

I took a test ride of the new KTM Duke 399 and I have to admit that the hype is real....
While the RCs ergonomics are much more comfortable for a rider like me, the Duke's typical ergos take some getting used to. Some panel gaps could be better but overall, it feels like you are getting an entertaining motorcycle for your money.

Is it possible to saddle up and ride the new 390 while tackling light trails? Any difference between this and the svartpilen 401 in this regard?

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by camitesh

The oil overfilling issue unfortunately may be real. I too noted the oil almost too easily touching the max oil limit mark post my first service but discarded of any overfill notion for some reason since I’m new to KTMs and their ways. I ASAP with SVC

H Camitesh. Quoted your post since it's easier to club all posts together, plus posting this for all the Duke owners and alike to get some perspective on...

The elusive oil level woes! If only I can stick this post to the first page of this thread, it would help all the current and potential 373/399 owners. I follow a set of procedures on how to check oil level levels, be it both 2, 3 or a 4 wheeler and in the process have observed a few interesting anecdotes.

Starting off with.

1. Always check your engine oil level when the engine is lukewarm to touch and not totally cold . Contrary to what they say in the manuscripts aplenty, an oil that is comparatively warmer is thin enough to flow and will always yield a correct reading than simply a cold engine. Now -- a red herring for all the keyboard warriors ready to hit the trigger saying, my manual says check when cold, your manual is right, but experience is better.

2. Never check an engine oil level immediately after STARTING an engine or STALLING an engine. In both the cases, you'll get 100% inaccurate results.. Why? Refer to point 1. Allowing the engine oil to be drained by the force of gravity takes time -- a warmer oil naturally flows better, works with gravity and helps reach the sump faster than a cold oil.

3. A flat surface is your friend. Modern bikes these days are void of a center stand. Most user manuals recommend to keep the bike upright on a level surface (lukewarm - you should be able to touch the engine case and it should be warm enough) this will 100% of the time yield accurate datum. Even better with a flat surface and a rider is on the seat. The flatter the better - in this case.

4. Paddock Parity? Paddocks aren't a sensible way to measure the accuracy of an oil level, but they do make lives easier. Wise guys measure oil before paddock and not after.

5. Oil glass full, now what? There's a reason why some manuals mention three types oil level variations for a same engine depending on the procedure carried.
I'll post my ex-flame, CBR 250's specifications.

Engine Oil Fill without OIL FILTER Replacement: 1.4 LIT
Engine oil Fill with NEW OIL FILTER Replacement: 1.5 LIT
ENGINE Overhaul with NEW FILTER : 1.8 LIT

So, why is this dynamic? Primarily because an oil for that matter isn't completely drained during an oil change interval. There's still a part of it eternally lodged in between the bearings, head, valve train etc and it's good. You really don't want bone dry internals to an extent.

Now the real world problem centers around here. For example, let's take a guy who's left his bike for service i.e. CBR 250 but doesn't replace the oil filter, yet replaces the oil alone. His mechanic simply fills in 1500 ml or 1.5 liters instead of 1400 ml per spec. So, that's fresh 100 ml oil that's going inside the engine "extra" for the oil filter over and above the 100 ml oil the old oil filter has already accumulated inside itself.

If you've observed, you'd have noticed how simple and easy it was for a mechanic or a DIY guy to overfill 200 ml without batting an eyelid? What should have been a 1400 ml standard fill procedure now stands at 1600 ml which is just close to rebuild fill procedure of 1800 ml!! Phew! Your sight glass sadly reflects the same horror!

Key Takeaways!

Engine oil level is as prime as using the right grade oil. One can have their engine oil imported from Swiss Alps or even flaunt one which Batman uses for his Batmobile, yet, all this doesn't mean they're going to last till eternity and give you the best performance each time. Oils break down quicker on humid and high temp riding conditions like India, coupled with ambient air that's nothing but a smoke screen, dirty air, poor quality fuel and high ambient temperatures mean oils break down and degrade faster, accumulate carbon more faster and eventually thicken.

Remember! Using more than recommend levels of engine oil is equally detrimental to an engine than an engine with comparatively low engine oil. Don't say you're still confused.. Now you know what to do and how to do, flaunt it in style be it Splendor or a Superleggera..

Hope it helps!

Originally Posted by scarn

Anyone else facing the issue with shifting on lower speeds between gear 1st and 2nd where it will go to neutral rather than 1st or 2nd. I am facing this specifically while moving from red light and it is quite irritating.

I've been informed newer model 2024 390s - few of them have been reported to having gear shifting and engine noise issues. The gear shift issue has been isolated to faulty gear shaft spring which gets cut. Secondly, importantly, oil starvation to head has caused engine failure and correspondingly warranting a strip down..

Originally Posted by kedar3223

Is it possible to saddle up and ride the new 390 while tackling light trails? Any difference between this and the svartpilen 401 in this regard?

2017 Duke 390s had the highest GC of them all at 185 mm. The Husky 401 stands in at 180 mm and the 2024 stands in at close 183 mm with a 4 mm handicap vis a vis the 2017. Tackling light trials shouldn't be significant an issue, the bike is capable of doing it two up, as long as the grip levels on hand are considered. Easy does it.

Cheers!
VJ

[shadowrider]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

It's simply a matter of re-sealing it with the right sealant and the sooner you act on it, the better.

VJ

So is the sealant applied externally around the rubber or does the casing need to be opened up for this?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

So is the sealant applied externally around the rubber or does the casing need to be opened up for this?

The casing is opened, and sealing surfaces cleaned, prepped, and sealant applied and has to be cured.

Cheers, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

So is the sealant applied externally around the rubber or does the casing need to be opened up for this?

Yes. The sealant is applied internally and externally dabbled around the boot so that it makes a good seal. The left case is opened up, the area cleaned and then the is sealant applied. Sometimes it might be required to drain your engine oil. But either way, the overall job is about 20 to 30 minutes tops.

Cheers!
VJ

[bpapache]

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

I took a test ride of the new KTM Duke 399

Hey Neil,
So when are we getting the detailed write up on this bike?
I loved your other detailed write-ups. Please do share your thoughts on the RTR-310 vs Duke 390. I’m sitting on the fence to buy either one of these. I’m upgrading from my TVS RTR 200 (have clocked 53000+ kms in 7 years). I’ve used this for commuting, touring and track riding.
I’m looking for a one bike to do it all.

I took a back to back test ride of both these bikes, but both felt unsatisfactory. The duke has good power and for some reason I felt it calm as well, but it’s vibey. The RTR 310 feels very very unrefined even at standstill. The bike was idling at 2K which is high I felt. Also, it felt as if, you can’t ride the RTR 310 calmly. Some folks have told that it’s the test ride or media bikes that has this issue. Should check some more bikes.
I’m utterly confused. Planning to go for test ride again.

PS: But the price of RTR 310 is good in my opinion. For the quality and performance on offer, even 60K difference to the Duke 390 is a good deal.

[neil.jericho]

Originally Posted by bpapache

Hey Neil,
So when are we getting the detailed write up on this bike?
I loved your other detailed write-ups. Please do share your thoughts on the RTR-310 vs Duke 390. I’m sitting on the fence to buy either one of these. I’m upgrading from my TVS RTR 200 (have clocked 53000+ kms in 7 years). I’ve used this for commuting, touring and track riding.
I’m looking for a one bike to do it all.

I took a back to back test ride of both these bikes, but both felt unsatisfactory. The duke has good power and for some reason I felt it calm as well, but it’s vibey. The RTR 310 feels very very unrefined even at standstill. The bike was idling at 2K which is high I felt. Also, it felt as if, you can’t ride the RTR 310 calmly. Some folks have told that it’s the test ride or media bikes that has this issue. Should check some more bikes.
I’m utterly confused. Planning to go for test ride again.

PS: But the price of RTR 310 is good in my opinion. For the quality and performance on offer, even 60K difference to the Duke 390 is a good deal.

bpapache, before I write a detailed review on the forum, I usually have the motorcycle for a few days. During this time, I make it a point to ride the bike in different conditions and cover ~ 150 to 200 kms. This approach takes away all the initial biases which have a funny way of creeping in and gives me a more balanced perspective on the strengths and weaknesses of the motorcycle.

With this new Duke 399, I have only managed to do a brief 15 minute test ride in Bangalore and a very rapid 20 kilometer ride in Trivandrum. Hence, as things stand, I doubt that I will be able to write a detailed review of the Duke 399. Now, if KTM were to toss me the keys to the motorcycle for a few days, with no questions asked, then its a different story

The Duke 399 that I rode in Trivandrum had covered over 6,000 kms. I rode it in track mode. The handling on narrow, winding roads had the typically KTM sharpness. The quickshifter worked seamlessly, especially when the throttle was wide open. The power delivery was addictive. The way it pulls up its skirt and sprints, makes you want to drink the KTM Kool Aid. But, it isnt a very refined engine. I wouldnt be happy riding it all day while touring. YMMV.

The RTR310 which I got to ride was very smooth but it hadnt even done 1000 kilometers when I got it. So, I cannot speak on how the engine refinement holds up over time. The bike I got felt like it could be ridden calmly, all day long, all year long. In comparison, the Duke 399 goads you into riding faster than you should be.

Do take test rides of both, preferably from other showrooms this time, and let us know what you think. If you are in South Bangalore, Bharat TVS has a test ride bike of the RTR 310 and the KTM Banerghetta Road branch has a test bike of the Duke 390. I look forward to hearing of your test ride experiences and your eventual decision. Honestly, I think both the RTR 310 and the Duke 399 are very capable performance motorcycles, and you wont find many enthusiasts here on TBHP, telling you that you made a mistake in picking either of them.

[kedar3223]

Is it a straight swap to replace the ugly looking drl pods with the slicker panels from the 250? To my eyes the front end looks much better in the d250 and it's mainly down to the way the drls jut out instead of sitting flush with the headlight. The front 3/4 look is just plain awkward .

The orange 390 with orange or repainted gloss black 250 panels and the blue 390 with the panels repainted to either body colour blue or the matte grey of the tank would look much better.