[bhogalrajnish]

make sence

can you eloborate on the mods discussed.

Originally Posted by darrenjpinto

Hi guys, my 2 pence worth. Performance mods are indirectly proportional to efficiency. Now the stories you hear about someone changing an airfilter and getting more milleage as well as better performance, well when you do change an air filter or fit a free flow exhaust you bike will run lean and hence screw up your engine. So if you have to do something start with the short muffler, then upsize jets (both pilot and main) and change the airfilter. If you can then change the carb but putting a bigger carb means one has to increase the size of the inlet port, while doing all this dont forget to add a high output oil pump, change to better pushrods and valve springs.

[IronWolf]

Panky, all the best in your search for the perfect mix of mods.

Originally Posted by Sankar

If you want FE as well do all of the above plus what JK said LOL Plus put CT100 crank,piston,bore in the bullet...

Before you type such a sentence you should type "Next sentence not safe at workplace".

Originally Posted by jkdas

and thers no once upon a time bullet fan

either you are still or your never was

Das, whats your line for Fan wannabes?

Originally Posted by darrenjpinto

Hi guys, my 2 pence worth. Performance mods are indirectly proportional to efficiency.

Not always.

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by IronWolf

Before you type such a sentence you should type "Next sentence not safe at workplace".

Lol... why is that?

[fieroid]

Getting better performance and fuel efficiency is like getting the cake and eating it too. Well its not impossible, you can make an engine peppier and equally fuel efficient. Well thats some inside work and a proper professional job. Not something that you can achieve with a K&N, exhaust etc...
But the idea of expecting fuel economy + 100bhp is not happening in this case. Why do you want to modify the bike then? Leave it stock.
The indian mentality of "mileage aka economy" is such a turn-off for any tuner. Remain stock all your life or do some serious stuff.

@Sankar - The next line would be *bleep* * bleep* . Hope you got what I meant.

[darrenjpinto]

Originally Posted by bhogalrajnish

make sence

can you eloborate on the mods discussed.

Elaborate, well i think you would need to find a good mechanic for starters who can do all those mods. the rest of the parts you have to source from places in Delhi.

[Leepower]

Originally Posted by kchatt

Modify a bullet !!!!!!
The list is endless

2. 500 cc 4 plate clutch

What are the benefits of 500 cc 4 plate clutch? Is any modification needed to fit it on Bullet 350?

[jkdas]

Originally Posted by v1p3r

WHAT?!

narenanatwentytwenty

What what?

I have seen/rode a bullet which was done so. !

ac427; http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...ched-bull.html

That bullet is older than me.

[gbanavar]

Originally Posted by speedcrazy

Be sure to get this done by a professional tuner and at a good machine shop

Hi SpeedCrazy,

Who in Bangalore is experienced in doing this? Do you have any contacts to get a tuneup?

[Leepower]

What is the best carb for Bullet 350 standard to boost performance?

[jingaboysr]

While searching for head valves for my bike, I came accross these two at Hitchcocks Morotcycles website

1) TITANIUM VALVE KIT (500cc & 535cc)
These titanium valves have been designed for competition use. The inlet has an improved profile and head diameter of 1.875'' and weighs 52g (the original is 84g). The exhaust weighs 44g (half the originals 88g). They are finished in a low friction, wear resistant coating. The kit is completed with copper beryllium valve seats, phosphor bronze valve guides, a superior design of spring arrangement, alloy top collars, bottom collars and split collets.

Cost: 275 pounds

2) COMPETITION VALVE KIT (500cc & 535cc)
This new kit contains specially pulsed plasma nitride treated valves with a slightly larger 1.875" inlet valve. Both valves have been re-profiled to give a better gasflow and have hardened ends to remove the need for the standard valve caps. They come complete with a superior design of spring arrangement, guides, alloy top collars, bottom colars and split collets.

Suitable for all Indian made 500cc Bullets and 1953-58 Redditch made Bullets.

Price: 90 pounds

What performance enhancements does these provide? I've heard of burnt valves when you go for a free flow system in your enfield, do these special valves prevent that?

Has anyone tried these??

[JayPrashanth]

Originally Posted by jingaboysr

While searching for head valves for my bike, I came accross these two at Hitchcocks Morotcycles website

1) TITANIUM VALVE KIT (500cc & 535cc)
These titanium valves have been designed for competition use. The inlet has an improved profile and head diameter of 1.875'' and weighs 52g (the original is 84g). The exhaust weighs 44g (half the originals 88g). They are finished in a low friction, wear resistant coating. The kit is completed with copper beryllium valve seats, phosphor bronze valve guides, a superior design of spring arrangement, alloy top collars, bottom collars and split collets.

Cost: 275 pounds

2) COMPETITION VALVE KIT (500cc & 535cc)
This new kit contains specially pulsed plasma nitride treated valves with a slightly larger 1.875" inlet valve. Both valves have been re-profiled to give a better gasflow and have hardened ends to remove the need for the standard valve caps. They come complete with a superior design of spring arrangement, guides, alloy top collars, bottom colars and split collets.

Suitable for all Indian made 500cc Bullets and 1953-58 Redditch made Bullets.

Price: 90 pounds

What performance enhancements does these provide? I've heard of burnt valves when you go for a free flow system in your enfield, do these special valves prevent that?

Has anyone tried these??

I haven't tried them personally but I know a person who has. It has worked brilliantly for him but he was running a big bore set up which necessitated all these high performance parts.

On a stock set up, the bigger intake valve will give you a larger mixture in your combustion chamber and this, in a high performance head could raise power. These valves will reduce valve float at 5000+ rpms, levels which your stock CI500 shouldn't see too often. You know why. About burnt valves, the titanium/nitride coated valves wont burn out if you're terribly lean but by then, you're piston would have been toast any way. About the valve burning due to a ultra tight/no pushrod clearance, I don't think nitriding also can prevent that from happening. Thes valves are mainly built to reduce valvetrain weight and thus ensure that the load on the already weak(I'm talking high rpms) Bullet valvetrain gets reduced by quite an extent. This, as these components are forming a part of a high performance package that will see rpms that street stock bullets might never see in their lifetime.

Do you need these?

Yes, If you've got a bunch of spare cash that you can afford to spend for these high quality. Otherwise, stock valves will be an option that will do the intended job decently, assuming your CI500 is kept stock(I'm considering non invasive mods like air filters and exhausts as close to stock).

Cheers,

Jay

[abhimanyuargal]

I own a 1978 military spec bull. i wanted to improve the performance of the bike by upgrading to a k&n air filter. I have the option of two filters namely the rc1060 and the r1100. but i've read here about jetting issues. is it okay to replace the standard vm24 carb with a vm28 carb(for bullet 500's)? and will this upgrade require any sort of midification to the intake system of the bike?

[bradhey]

I would race stock bikes are built to last, while race bikes last just little. Same like race bread horses though fast get out of shape soon, while stock horses last years.
My suggetion would be not to go for modifications untill absolutely necessary and carried out by a very knowledgeable person.

[n.devdath]

Ok, a simple issue here. My ship shape Electra with some 22k on the odo has never given me more than 26 kmpl in the city and 27 on the highways and speeds of 80 kmph consistently. I m satisfied with its performance but not mileage.
I have 2 questions:
1. Is this the normal mileage that can be expected keeping in mind the health of the engine?
If yes, then there is no question No:2. If no, then:

2. What can I do to increase the mileage of it. With rising petrol prices it has become difficult for me to go on long rides, even long city commutes for that matter.

OT: I had fitted a K&N filter when it was new and I remember having got 30kmpl at 80kmph during a ride to Shirdi. I removed it on the suggestion of my mechanic. I still have it. I do not remember the part number but it was the bigger size filter that comes for bikes.

Someone help me I can even try a mechanic if it is a matter of setting the carb but I believe my guy is a good hand since I have seen his customers and his work.

[akshay4587]

Originally Posted by n.devdath

Ok, a simple issue here. My ship shape Electra with some 22k on the odo has never given me more than 26 kmpl in the city and 27 on the highways and speeds of 80 kmph consistently. I m satisfied with its performance but not mileage.
I have 2 questions:
1. Is this the normal mileage that can be expected keeping in mind the health of the engine?
If yes, then there is no question No:2. If no, then:

2. What can I do to increase the mileage of it. With rising petrol prices it has become difficult for me to go on long rides, even long city commutes for that matter.

OT: I had fitted a K&N filter when it was new and I remember having got 30kmpl at 80kmph during a ride to Shirdi. I removed it on the suggestion of my mechanic. I still have it. I do not remember the part number but it was the bigger size filter that comes for bikes.

Someone help me I can even try a mechanic if it is a matter of setting the carb but I believe my guy is a good hand since I have seen his customers and his work.

You got 30kmpl with K&N because of Lean AF ratio.
if you want K&N to perform,get a bigger carb(not necessary) and bigger jets,and then go about tuning.